Mark's Cobra 427

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

OK, I'm just started, and loving this kit so far!!  One of the best looking cars ever built.  

Let's leap in with Pack one, stage 1.

Here's the contents of the first stage.  The bonnet!  Well, what else? (and I get another of their nice screwdrivers!)

 

Let's take a closer look at a couple of parts first.  The badge is beautifully rendered,

The bonnet has a flawless finish, and the metallic blue is to die for!  The scoop just drops into place.  Am I getting carried away?  Sorry..... 

 

We start the assembly by adding a couple of black sponge strips for the bonnet to rest on.

 

Then add the scoop.

This is screwed in from the bottom. Rest the bonnet on the polishing cloth to stop it getting scratched. You really don't want scratches in this!!
The more observant may have noticed the rivets cast into the bonnet to represent the rivets that would hold the scoop on the real car. Yes, they are individually picked out in silver!

 

Put the bonnet catch through the hole.

 

Add the catch plate.

 

 

Then the spring.

 

 

Put the spring resining washer on the screw, and screw it in place.  Be careful not to strip these - the thread is quite fragile.

 

Rinse and repeat to fit the second catch.  Now I thought that the catches should be pointing backwards with the bonnet latched, but they are pointing outwards on this kit.  I've seen pictures on the web of them both ways, and a friend who has an original 1966 Cobra says his point backwards.  I may change mine, not sure yet.

 

This completes stage 1.

 

 

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 2, the front left wheel

Nice printing on the tyre!

 

 

First off, drop the tyre in boiling water and leave it to stew while I assemble the wheel

Assembling the hub is straight forward.  4 screw for the first parts.

 

 

Another 4 screws secures the inside rim.

The finished rim looks like this.

Then wrestle the tyre in place.  

Now push the chrome trim into the knock-on.  It's a friction fit.

 

Push the brake disc onto the hub.

Screw the brake calliper in place with a small screw.  Be careful not to strip the hole, it's a delicate thread.

Push the hub assembly into the wheel.

Then screw the wheel in place from the front.

Finally, drop the knock-on in place.  There is a magnet in the back which holds it in place.  I found that the magnet fell out if I pulled the knock-on off.  However, easily rectified with a spot of glue.

This completes stage 2!

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 3. steering wheel and exhaust, etc.

Push the emblem onto the steering wheel!  That was easy!!

We don't do anything with the seat yet, but it's nicely made of real leather!

The two parts of the exhaust push together.

This completes the stage.  

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 4 gives us engine and exhaust.

I rolled the air filter grill round a wooden spoon handle.  This gives a nice smooth curl that drops straight into the housing.

It drops in like this.

The housing top goes on nicely.  Lovely chrome finish!

Followed by the carb top.

Then the bottom of the carb.

Which then goes into the carb housing.  I may add the fuel lines later if I can work out where they go.

This gets screwed onto the head.  That's all the work on the engine for now.

Moving on to the exhaust.  We start by pushing the 4 into 1 collector onto the silencer.

This has the pipe numbers moulded in, to make assembly idiot proof.

The pipes have numbers moulded into them too! 

They push in and are quite stiff.  Don't try twisting the pipes in the holes as you'll almost certainly break off the pin.  As the instructions say, pull them out and reinsert them in the correct alignment.

All 4 in place, and the manifold end looks like this.

Finally, add the exhaust plate.  This is also numbered!

Bolt heads go toward the silencer.

 

 

 

This completes this stage.

 

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 5 gives us the oil filter and the other silencer.

As before, the exhaust parts just push together

The oil filter and housing all go together nicely.

This screws onto the engine front spacer and plate.

This completes this stage.

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 6 completes the other exhaust.

Assembly is the same as the previous exhaust.  However, these pipes have small flats on them.  The flats face each other when correctly aligned.

This is the completed exhaust.

This completes the stage and pack 1.  I can't wait for pack 2!

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

I've received pack 2 now, which is progressing with the engine.

Stage 7 gives us the parts to the alternator.

The first parts screw together easily.

Then the mounting arms are fitted.  Leave these slightly loose.

Swing them round so they meet up, thus.

Then screw onto the water pump assembly.

That completes stage 7

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 8 gives us the water pump pulley, crank pulley, timing belt cover and the belt.

The two pulleys go together easily enough.  

The water pump pulley is screwed in from the back.

Then the timing belt cover goes on.

Now fit the crankshaft pulley.

Finally, the belt goes on.

This completes stage 8.

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

On to stages 9 & 10 which are the exhaust manifolds

Stage 9 is the left side.

Push the first pipe into the hole in the head.  Everything is numbered, and the instructions give you the right order in which to do it.
The only thing to add really is if the pipes are difficult to get to go all the way in, scrape the chrome plating off the peg.

This is the stage completed.

Stage 10 is the right hand side.

Which looks like this when completed.

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 11 is the rocker covers

The left cap goes in easily.

So does the right cap.

These are screwed to the manifolds.

Then the plug lead clips are added.  These were a little tricky.  One side of the rocker cover needed a knife blade to open the slot.  The other side was fine.  They needed a firm press to seat them properly.  I found that pressing down with a pair of tweezers in the middle two slots let me apply a firm pressure without damaging the parts, which are quite delicate.

The finished stage looks like this.

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 12.  Coil, distributor, etc.

The distributor and full filter go on the head and are screwed in from underneath.

The coil and cover cap just push into place.

This completes the stage.

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 13, the main block.

All we do in this stage is screw the heads to the blocks.  The parts are marked L & R, but they only go one way anyway.

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 14, the gearbox.

First off, screw two screws into the inspection plate.  Drive these home, but don't over tighten them.  We may need to adjust them a little when we fit the plate.

Now fit the bell housing.  The first half is screwed to the block, then the second half is screwed to the first half.  This is the end result.

Add the first half of the gearbox.

Now slide the inspection plate in place.  This should be a slop-free sliding fit.  Tighten or loosen the two screws if you need to.

Now add the second half of the gearbox.

Attach the first two gearbox rods.  Mine seemed to pull off a little easier than I'd have liked, so I glued them in place with superglue.  Just the tiniest drop applied in the hole with a cocktail stick.  Expert Tip:  Apply the glue to the hole, not the peg.  It's easier to get a neat join with no glue oozing out round the fixing point.

Add the bracket and the last rod.

This completes stage 14.

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 15 is the last stage of this pack.  Adding the sump and ignition.

First we screw the protective pan to the sump, then screw two shouldered screws into the sump.  As before, we may need to adjust these when we fit the sump.

Now take the head assembly and add two more screws.

Slot in the fluid tank bracket left over from stage 13.

Now fit the timing belt/water pump/alternator assembly and screw it in place.

Now try the sump in place and adjust the screws if necessary.

Now try the head and adjust the screws if necessary.  I found the rear screw was a little loose, but the head head firmly, so I didn't worry about it.

Now screw the two halves of the block together.  This completes the main engine assembly.

The spark plugs are bet cut froth sprue, not twisted off.  They push in, and are a little loose, but don't come out again.  They are all securely fixed when the plug leads are fitted, so it's not a problem.

Now cut the leads to length.  It's best to do these one at a time to save getting them mixed up.  It's also a smart move to cut them a couple of millimetres over length, and make sure you don't stretch them.  Now fit the connector.  Again, these are best cut from the sprue, not twisted off.

Now fit the plug lead in place.  This is the distributor end.  This connector peg is D shaped to make sure it goes in with the lead pointing in the right direction.

Then the plug, and finally in the lead clip.

Now follow the instructions to complete the stage.  I found the leads tended to jump out of the distributor, but once they were all in, they all held firmly.  You could glue them in place, but you need to be really careful as you've have problems fitting them all if you glue them in the wrong order.

This completes the pack, and the majority of the engine.

I'm loving this build.  The engine is nicely detailed and I'm really looking forward the rest of the build.

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 15 is the last stage of this pack.  Adding the sump and ignition.

First we screw the protective pan to the sump, then screw two shouldered screws into the sump.  As before, we may need to adjust these when we fit the sump.

Now take the head assembly and add two more screws.

Slot in the fluid tank bracket left over from stage 13.

Now fit the timing belt/water pump/alternator assembly and screw it in place.

Now try the sump in place and adjust the screws if necessary.

Now try the head and adjust the screws if necessary.  I found the rear screw was a little loose, but the head head firmly, so I didn't worry about it.

Now screw the two halves of the block together.  This completes the main engine assembly.

The spark plugs are bet cut froth sprue, not twisted off.  They push in, and are a little loose, but don't come out again.  They are all securely fixed when the plug leads are fitted, so it's not a problem.

Now cut the leads to length.  It's best to do these one at a time to save getting them mixed up.  It's also a smart move to cut them a couple of millimetres over length, and make sure you don't stretch them.  Now fit the connector.  Again, these are best cut from the sprue, not twisted off.

Now fit the plug lead in place.  This is the distributor end.  This connector peg is D shaped to make sure it goes in with the lead pointing in the right direction.

Then the plug, and finally in the lead clip.

Now follow the instructions to complete the stage.  I found the leads tended to jump out of the distributor, but once they were all in, they all held firmly.  You could glue them in place, but you need to be really careful as you've have problems fitting them all if you glue them in the wrong order.

This completes the pack, and the majority of the engine.

I'm loving this build.  The engine is nicely detailed and I'm really looking forward to the next pack.

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 15 is the last stage of this pack.  Adding the sump and ignition.

First we screw the protective pan to the sump, then screw two shouldered screws into the sump.  As before, we may need to adjust these when we fit the sump.

Now take the head assembly and add two more screws.

Slot in the fluid tank bracket left over from stage 13.

Now fit the timing belt/water pump/alternator assembly and screw it in place.

Now try the sump in place and adjust the screws if necessary.

Now try the head and adjust the screws if necessary.  I found the rear screw was a little loose, but the head head firmly, so I didn't worry about it.

Now screw the two halves of the block together.  This completes the main engine assembly.

The spark plugs are bet cut froth sprue, not twisted off.  They push in, and are a little loose, but don't come out again.  They are all securely fixed when the plug leads are fitted, so it's not a problem.

Now cut the leads to length.  It's best to do these one at a time to save getting them mixed up.  It's also a smart move to cut them a couple of millimetres over length, and make sure you don't stretch them.  You can always trim them to the exact length when you fit them.  Now fit the connector.  Again, these are best cut from the sprue, not twisted off.

Now fit the plug lead in place.  This is the distributor end.  This connector peg is D shaped to make sure it goes in with the lead pointing in the right direction.

Then the plug, and finally in the lead clip.

Now follow the instructions to complete the stage.  I found the leads tended to jump out of the distributor, but once they were all in, they all held firmly.  You could glue them in place, but you need to be really careful as you've have problems fitting them all if you glue them in the wrong order.

This completes the pack, and the majority of the engine.

I'm loving this build.  The engine is nicely detailed and I'm really looking forward to the next pack.

[Cobra]

The part with the distributor is a pain in the ass.

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

On 11/21/2020 at 4:13 PM, Cobra said:

The part with the distributor is a pain in the ass.

Yeah, it was a bit of a game.  All stays in place once it's in though.

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

I'm cracking on with pack 3 now, which is mainly the chassis.

Stage 16. Left hand chassis

We start by adding the 4th cross member.  This goes in easily, and the parts are all identified with moulded in numbers.  

Then add the 3rd cross member and this completes the stage.

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 17 gives us the right chassis.

First fit the 2nd cross member

Here's a close-up showing the correct orientation. 

Then the 1st cross member.

Now add the other chassis rail, and we're done with this stage.

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

On to stage 18.  More chassis and the horns.

First off, add the top to cross member No 4.

Now add the horns to the front suspension support.  They just push on.  This completes this stage.

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 19.  More chassis!!!

Not much to do in this stage, just screw the suspension support to the chassis member.

 

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 20, Still more chassis.  

This stage is a bit more involved.

First off, fit the chassis member to the suspension support.

Now screw this sub-assembly to the lower half of the chassis that we previously assembled.

Add cross member No 3.

Then cross member No 4.

The completed chassis should look like this.  

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 21, the last of the chassis for now.

First fit the rear chassis part.  4 screws so it's well held.  I guess this will take a substantial weight!

Now add the wishbone mounting.  Another 4 screws, so these parts are definitely structural.  

This completes the chassis for now.  I do like the way they have scheduled the packs so we complete the engine then move on to the chassis.  It's much better than jumping around doing a bit of this then a bit of that and having a large collection of half finished components sitting in a box!

 

[Pierre]

hello 

good job 

did you know what the Horns are for ?