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OK, I'm just started, and loving this kit so far!!  One of the best looking cars ever built.  

Let's leap in with Pack one, stage 1.

Here's the contents of the first stage.  The bonnet!  Well, what else? (and I get another of their nice screwdrivers!)

50411135467_e552db3fa7_b.jpg

 

Let's take a closer look at a couple of parts first.  The badge is beautifully rendered,

50411134977_43dfb04d1e_b.jpg

The bonnet has a flawless finish, and the metallic blue is to die for!  The scoop just drops into place.  Am I getting carried away?  Sorry..... 

50414702653_003c3e4674_b.jpg

 

We start the assembly by adding a couple of black sponge strips for the bonnet to rest on.

 

50410229003_492c77439e_b.jpg

Then add the scoop.

50411085622_ea4c0cbd55_b.jpg

This is screwed in from the bottom. Rest the bonnet on the polishing cloth to stop it getting scratched. You really don't want scratches in this!!
The more observant may have noticed the rivets cast into the bonnet to represent the rivets that would hold the scoop on the real car. Yes, they are individually picked out in silver!

 

50410903096_cf3e4746ee_b.jpg

Put the bonnet catch through the hole.

50410196368_44712f221c_b.jpg

 

Add the catch plate.

50411054387_c4d2018d4a_b.jpg

 

 

Then the spring.

50411054147_a719754f87_b.jpg

 

 

Put the spring resining washer on the screw, and screw it in place.  Be careful not to strip these - the thread is quite fragile.

50410823266_60ae64399d_b.jpg

 

Rinse and repeat to fit the second catch.  Now I thought that the catches should be pointing backwards with the bonnet latched, but they are pointing outwards on this kit.  I've seen pictures on the web of them both ways, and a friend who has an original 1966 Cobra says his point backwards.  I may change mine, not sure yet.

50410115878_84981e38a3_b.jpg

 

This completes stage 1.

50414629648_8c03cb8cf0_b.jpg

 

 

 

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Stage 55 is the lower trunk board and fuel filler pipe.  I assume this translates to boot floor! LOL!! Two parts, one screw, easy!! Stage 56 is the circuit board and cables. Plug the

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Stage 2, the front left wheel

50411373857_75b9864b16_b.jpg

Nice printing on the tyre!

50410963377_6541d71c66_b.jpg

 

 

First off, drop the tyre in boiling water and leave it to stew while I assemble the wheel

50411340357_5b7d4cef72_b.jpg

Assembling the hub is straight forward.  4 screw for the first parts.

50410963662_34d9a717be_b.jpg

 

 

Another 4 screws secures the inside rim.

50411163736_8d60eacd09_b.jpg

The finished rim looks like this.

50410462293_38e29defd0_b.jpg

Then wrestle the tyre in place.  

50411163291_dd2994b2a2_b.jpg

Now push the chrome trim into the knock-on.  It's a friction fit.

50411163671_990cb46870_b.jpg

 

Push the brake disc onto the hub.

50410962502_5da3ba555d_b.jpg

Screw the brake calliper in place with a small screw.  Be careful not to strip the hole, it's a delicate thread.

50411280682_0f93136368_b.jpg

Push the hub assembly into the wheel.

50410426363_af46b00135_b.jpg

Then screw the wheel in place from the front.

50411129301_37ecd41f2b_b.jpg

Finally, drop the knock-on in place.  There is a magnet in the back which holds it in place.  I found that the magnet fell out if I pulled the knock-on off.  However, easily rectified with a spot of glue.

50410944727_2489db5888_b.jpg

This completes stage 2!

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Stage 3. steering wheel and exhaust, etc.

50411060046_1cca682d59_b.jpg

Push the emblem onto the steering wheel!  That was easy!!

50410796576_4fe1d40551_b.jpg

We don't do anything with the seat yet, but it's nicely made of real leather!

50411039681_fc9d8622bc_b.jpg

The two parts of the exhaust push together.

50411040256_576d29b48a_b.jpg

This completes the stage.  

 

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Stage 4 gives us engine and exhaust.

50410337403_5495cc55dd_b.jpg

I rolled the air filter grill round a wooden spoon handle.  This gives a nice smooth curl that drops straight into the housing.

50411032636_ec7b623975_b.jpg

It drops in like this.

50410088058_bd5c634b7e_b.jpg

The housing top goes on nicely.  Lovely chrome finish!

50411031846_b173dcd093_b.jpg

Followed by the carb top.

50411184207_d21f938190_b.jpg

Then the bottom of the carb.

50410773421_acd67c62fa_b.jpg

Which then goes into the carb housing.  I may add the fuel lines later if I can work out where they go.

50410321028_819a62278d_b.jpg

This gets screwed onto the head.  That's all the work on the engine for now.

50410321123_bff71b0860_b.jpg

Moving on to the exhaust.  We start by pushing the 4 into 1 collector onto the silencer.

50410773396_6005bb7ff8_b.jpg

This has the pipe numbers moulded in, to make assembly idiot proof.

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The pipes have numbers moulded into them too! 

50410064968_a6b9af76ab_b.jpg

They push in and are quite stiff.  Don't try twisting the pipes in the holes as you'll almost certainly break off the pin.  As the instructions say, pull them out and reinsert them in the correct alignment.

50411169802_70831c6bbb_b.jpg

All 4 in place, and the manifold end looks like this.

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Finally, add the exhaust plate.  This is also numbered!

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Bolt heads go toward the silencer.

 

50410304228_0eb2c6d259_b.jpg

 

 

This completes this stage.

 

 

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Stage 5 gives us the oil filter and the other silencer.

50411160327_e56d4a1895_b.jpg

As before, the exhaust parts just push together

50411008626_1f16ba788d_b.jpg

The oil filter and housing all go together nicely.

50410986191_305dbd33c1_b.jpg

This screws onto the engine front spacer and plate.

50411137447_9e89543b5d_b.jpg

This completes this stage.


 

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Stage 6 completes the other exhaust.

50410280878_2c093e92f1_b.jpg

Assembly is the same as the previous exhaust.  However, these pipes have small flats on them.  The flats face each other when correctly aligned.

50415549877_eaf678fdc1_b.jpg

This is the completed exhaust.

50415383796_4515828fff_b.jpg

This completes the stage and pack 1.  I can't wait for pack 2!

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I've received pack 2 now, which is progressing with the engine.

Stage 7 gives us the parts to the alternator.

50573184026_6ce9252719_b.jpg

The first parts screw together easily.

50573184051_cbb857f9cf_b.jpg

Then the mounting arms are fitted.  Leave these slightly loose.

50573184046_b7961c895b_b.jpg

Swing them round so they meet up, thus.

50573315372_0f5a877892_b.jpg

Then screw onto the water pump assembly.

50573183976_4dc4193160_b.jpg

That completes stage 7


 

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Stage 8 gives us the water pump pulley, crank pulley, timing belt cover and the belt.

50573183826_4af5153540_b.jpg

The two pulleys go together easily enough.  

50573315312_51bd0a8b6b_b.jpg

The water pump pulley is screwed in from the back.

50572439358_c4536be285_b.jpg

Then the timing belt cover goes on.

50573315292_15604d6abf_b.jpg

Now fit the crankshaft pulley.

50573183781_c623c11b74_b.jpg

Finally, the belt goes on.

50573183866_4d310c78ba_b.jpg

This completes stage 8.


 

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On to stages 9 & 10 which are the exhaust manifolds

Stage 9 is the left side.

50573315232_32c5007ca7_b.jpg

Push the first pipe into the hole in the head.  Everything is numbered, and the instructions give you the right order in which to do it.
The only thing to add really is if the pipes are difficult to get to go all the way in, scrape the chrome plating off the peg.

50573183816_62650e89b7_b.jpg

This is the stage completed.

50573315117_69f7ae5491_b.jpg

Stage 10 is the right hand side.

50573183671_2d00501a6c_b.jpg

Which looks like this when completed.

50573183681_9655f4998d_b.jpg


 

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Stage 11 is the rocker covers

50573183646_068c5f601c_b.jpg

The left cap goes in easily.

50573183636_ed1a53dd54_b.jpg

So does the right cap.

50573183626_157859a332_b.jpg

These are screwed to the manifolds.

50573183461_9398b471e2_b.jpg

Then the plug lead clips are added.  These were a little tricky.  One side of the rocker cover needed a knife blade to open the slot.  The other side was fine.  They needed a firm press to seat them properly.  I found that pressing down with a pair of tweezers in the middle two slots let me apply a firm pressure without damaging the parts, which are quite delicate.

50573314862_f0ff9e362c_b.jpg

The finished stage looks like this.

50573183446_82a2c518d0_b.jpg


 

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Stage 12.  Coil, distributor, etc.

50573183416_1e114c183b_b.jpg

The distributor and full filter go on the head and are screwed in from underneath.

50573183441_6a9c57cfc8_b.jpg

The coil and cover cap just push into place.

50573314807_c98e091a1b_b.jpg

This completes the stage.

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Stage 13, the main block.

50573315922_a65d4a34c2_b.jpg

All we do in this stage is screw the heads to the blocks.  The parts are marked L & R, but they only go one way anyway.

50573184491_341a51b35b_b.jpg

 

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Stage 14, the gearbox.

50573184501_6fd4255751_b.jpg

First off, screw two screws into the inspection plate.  Drive these home, but don't over tighten them.  We may need to adjust them a little when we fit the plate.

50573184486_ea749b6675_b.jpg

Now fit the bell housing.  The first half is screwed to the block, then the second half is screwed to the first half.  This is the end result.

50572439923_feba9c5a79_b.jpg

Add the first half of the gearbox.

50573184446_3b12933792_b.jpg

Now slide the inspection plate in place.  This should be a slop-free sliding fit.  Tighten or loosen the two screws if you need to.

50573315757_c23c6d11a1_b.jpg

Now add the second half of the gearbox.

50573184456_11a331f8c4_b.jpg

Attach the first two gearbox rods.  Mine seemed to pull off a little easier than I'd have liked, so I glued them in place with superglue.  Just the tiniest drop applied in the hole with a cocktail stick.  Expert Tip:  Apply the glue to the hole, not the peg.  It's easier to get a neat join with no glue oozing out round the fixing point.

50573315687_984a621b3a_b.jpg

Add the bracket and the last rod.

50572439818_286e0a61a0_b.jpg

This completes stage 14.


 

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Stage 15 is the last stage of this pack.  Adding the sump and ignition.

50573315682_0ae929f5a6_b.jpg

First we screw the protective pan to the sump, then screw two shouldered screws into the sump.  As before, we may need to adjust these when we fit the sump.

50573315667_ffa9fc1893_b.jpg

Now take the head assembly and add two more screws.

50572439778_b1e848f399_b.jpg

Slot in the fluid tank bracket left over from stage 13.

50572439753_cc744e587d_b.jpg

Now fit the timing belt/water pump/alternator assembly and screw it in place.

50573315607_906772de52_b.jpg

Now try the sump in place and adjust the screws if necessary.

50573184221_0d1c26dea9_b.jpg

Now try the head and adjust the screws if necessary.  I found the rear screw was a little loose, but the head head firmly, so I didn't worry about it.

50573315507_9ebabab585_b.jpg

Now screw the two halves of the block together.  This completes the main engine assembly.

50572439668_842b2da6d2_b.jpg

The spark plugs are bet cut froth sprue, not twisted off.  They push in, and are a little loose, but don't come out again.  They are all securely fixed when the plug leads are fitted, so it's not a problem.

50573184176_e5576b9da5_b.jpg

Now cut the leads to length.  It's best to do these one at a time to save getting them mixed up.  It's also a smart move to cut them a couple of millimetres over length, and make sure you don't stretch them.  Now fit the connector.  Again, these are best cut from the sprue, not twisted off.

50572439648_0ac3f3ab0b_b.jpg

Now fit the plug lead in place.  This is the distributor end.  This connector peg is D shaped to make sure it goes in with the lead pointing in the right direction.

50573315527_79a95756af_b.jpg

Then the plug, and finally in the lead clip.

50573184126_00e7c2e8f3_b.jpg

Now follow the instructions to complete the stage.  I found the leads tended to jump out of the distributor, but once they were all in, they all held firmly.  You could glue them in place, but you need to be really careful as you've have problems fitting them all if you glue them in the wrong order.

50573315422_ba03e309a1_b.jpg50573184021_fe28ba0cf6_b.jpg

This completes the pack, and the majority of the engine.

50573184036_230da2d05d_b.jpg

I'm loving this build.  The engine is nicely detailed and I'm really looking forward the rest of the build.

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Stage 15 is the last stage of this pack.  Adding the sump and ignition.

50573315682_0ae929f5a6_b.jpg

First we screw the protective pan to the sump, then screw two shouldered screws into the sump.  As before, we may need to adjust these when we fit the sump.

50573315667_ffa9fc1893_b.jpg

Now take the head assembly and add two more screws.

50572439778_b1e848f399_b.jpg

Slot in the fluid tank bracket left over from stage 13.

50572439753_cc744e587d_b.jpg

Now fit the timing belt/water pump/alternator assembly and screw it in place.

50573315607_906772de52_b.jpg

Now try the sump in place and adjust the screws if necessary.

50573184221_0d1c26dea9_b.jpg

Now try the head and adjust the screws if necessary.  I found the rear screw was a little loose, but the head head firmly, so I didn't worry about it.

50573315507_9ebabab585_b.jpg

Now screw the two halves of the block together.  This completes the main engine assembly.

50572439668_842b2da6d2_b.jpg

The spark plugs are bet cut froth sprue, not twisted off.  They push in, and are a little loose, but don't come out again.  They are all securely fixed when the plug leads are fitted, so it's not a problem.

50573184176_e5576b9da5_b.jpg

Now cut the leads to length.  It's best to do these one at a time to save getting them mixed up.  It's also a smart move to cut them a couple of millimetres over length, and make sure you don't stretch them.  Now fit the connector.  Again, these are best cut from the sprue, not twisted off.

50572439648_0ac3f3ab0b_b.jpg

Now fit the plug lead in place.  This is the distributor end.  This connector peg is D shaped to make sure it goes in with the lead pointing in the right direction.

50573315527_79a95756af_b.jpg

Then the plug, and finally in the lead clip.

50573184126_00e7c2e8f3_b.jpg

Now follow the instructions to complete the stage.  I found the leads tended to jump out of the distributor, but once they were all in, they all held firmly.  You could glue them in place, but you need to be really careful as you've have problems fitting them all if you glue them in the wrong order.

50573315422_ba03e309a1_b.jpg50573184021_fe28ba0cf6_b.jpg

This completes the pack, and the majority of the engine.

50573184036_230da2d05d_b.jpg

I'm loving this build.  The engine is nicely detailed and I'm really looking forward to the next pack.

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Stage 15 is the last stage of this pack.  Adding the sump and ignition.

50573315682_0ae929f5a6_b.jpg

First we screw the protective pan to the sump, then screw two shouldered screws into the sump.  As before, we may need to adjust these when we fit the sump.

50573315667_ffa9fc1893_b.jpg

Now take the head assembly and add two more screws.

50572439778_b1e848f399_b.jpg

Slot in the fluid tank bracket left over from stage 13.

50572439753_cc744e587d_b.jpg

Now fit the timing belt/water pump/alternator assembly and screw it in place.

50573315607_906772de52_b.jpg

Now try the sump in place and adjust the screws if necessary.

50573184221_0d1c26dea9_b.jpg

Now try the head and adjust the screws if necessary.  I found the rear screw was a little loose, but the head head firmly, so I didn't worry about it.

50573315507_9ebabab585_b.jpg

Now screw the two halves of the block together.  This completes the main engine assembly.

50572439668_842b2da6d2_b.jpg

The spark plugs are bet cut froth sprue, not twisted off.  They push in, and are a little loose, but don't come out again.  They are all securely fixed when the plug leads are fitted, so it's not a problem.

50573184176_e5576b9da5_b.jpg

Now cut the leads to length.  It's best to do these one at a time to save getting them mixed up.  It's also a smart move to cut them a couple of millimetres over length, and make sure you don't stretch them.  You can always trim them to the exact length when you fit them.  Now fit the connector.  Again, these are best cut from the sprue, not twisted off.

50572439648_0ac3f3ab0b_b.jpg

Now fit the plug lead in place.  This is the distributor end.  This connector peg is D shaped to make sure it goes in with the lead pointing in the right direction.

50573315527_79a95756af_b.jpg

Then the plug, and finally in the lead clip.

50573184126_00e7c2e8f3_b.jpg

Now follow the instructions to complete the stage.  I found the leads tended to jump out of the distributor, but once they were all in, they all held firmly.  You could glue them in place, but you need to be really careful as you've have problems fitting them all if you glue them in the wrong order.

50573315422_ba03e309a1_b.jpg50573184021_fe28ba0cf6_b.jpg

This completes the pack, and the majority of the engine.

50573184036_230da2d05d_b.jpg

I'm loving this build.  The engine is nicely detailed and I'm really looking forward to the next pack.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/21/2020 at 4:13 PM, Cobra said:

The part with the distributor is a pain in the ass.

Yeah, it was a bit of a game.  All stays in place once it's in though.

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I'm cracking on with pack 3 now, which is mainly the chassis.

Stage 16. Left hand chassis

50685451782_5400d8f391_b.jpg

We start by adding the 4th cross member.  This goes in easily, and the parts are all identified with moulded in numbers.  

50684612678_722c352709_b.jpg

Then add the 3rd cross member and this completes the stage.

50685451642_67ecc3c286_b.jpg

 

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Stage 17 gives us the right chassis.

50684612508_7b070f8318_b.jpg

First fit the 2nd cross member

50685451647_dc153488ae_b.jpg

Here's a close-up showing the correct orientation. 

50685451627_462d346ecf_b.jpg

Then the 1st cross member.

50685370096_48988118e8_b.jpg

Now add the other chassis rail, and we're done with this stage.

50685451487_6335733028_b.jpg


 

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On to stage 18.  More chassis and the horns.

50684612318_0af0ba7fd3_b.jpg

First off, add the top to cross member No 4.

50685370131_bb6f05da02_b.jpg

Now add the horns to the front suspension support.  They just push on.  This completes this stage.

50685451427_d17e6e64ec_b.jpg


 

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Stage 20, Still more chassis.  

50685369941_87b0cfd347_b.jpg

This stage is a bit more involved.

First off, fit the chassis member to the suspension support.

50685369931_f746314ab5_b.jpg

Now screw this sub-assembly to the lower half of the chassis that we previously assembled.

50685451262_3f880820be_b.jpg

Add cross member No 3.

50685451257_cdd84538f1_b.jpg

Then cross member No 4.

50685369926_908d636b7a_b.jpg

The completed chassis should look like this.  

50684612148_0b262270f9_b.jpg


 

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Stage 21, the last of the chassis for now.

50685370431_57fecaf8cd_b.jpg

First fit the rear chassis part.  4 screws so it's well held.  I guess this will take a substantial weight!

50685451757_83c5bef301_b.jpg

Now add the wishbone mounting.  Another 4 screws, so these parts are definitely structural.  

50685451777_bd65d7186c_b.jpg

This completes the chassis for now.  I do like the way they have scheduled the packs so we complete the engine then move on to the chassis.  It's much better than jumping around doing a bit of this then a bit of that and having a large collection of half finished components sitting in a box!

50684612538_84228a9cbb_b.jpg

 

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