Mark's Cobra 427

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 92.  Left indicators and rear light.

The front indicator assembles easily and clips in place without any drama.

So does the rear light cluster.

The LED wasn't the tightest fit in the world, but a piece of masking tape solved this and kept the cable under control.

Stage 93 is simply a repeat of the last stage.

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 94 The Anti-sway bar and hood support

The anti-sway bar goes on easily.

The hood support clip clips in place nice and firmly.

The hood support locates easily and could be held in place with masking tape.  However, I found it easier to leave it off for now as it can be easily fitted at the end of the build.

Here's where to put the tape if you choose to fit it now.

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 95 the head lights

The lenses clip into the reflectors, then they are screwed in place on the body.  Very easy.  The LEDs are saved for later.

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 96 Some fiddly details!

Let's start with the mirror.  Use tweezers to place the reflective sticker accurately, then push the mirror in place.

Now the windscreen goes on.  This is screwed in from underneath, and it fits very accurately and securely.

Now the wipers are screwed in place.  These are a bit fiddly and it helps to pre-thread them to make it easier to get the screws in straight.
You can see that ~I've left the masking tape in place to tame the hood.

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 97 some more details and we fit the cockpit into the bodywork.

This is a long stage with lots to do even though there aren't many parts supplied.

The air cooler goes in first.  

Then the fuel filler cap is assembled and fitted.  Nice and straight forward although clipping the clasp in place with a little tricky.

On to the boot... sorry, trunk lid.  Put it in place and hold with masking tape.

Now turn the model over and fix the hinge bracket in place.  

Next we install the fuel tank assembly.  Feed the LED cables through the gaps either side of the trunk, then lower the trunk assembly into place.  Check that no wires are trapped and it's seated fully, then fix it with a couple of screws.

Now the cockpit assembly is fitted.  This needed a firm push to get fully located.  I think the sides of the seat were rubbing against the bodywork a bit.  
Needless to say, make sure all the cables, seatbelts and any other dangly bits are where they are supposed to be, and not trapped.

Here is the rear end.  Note the screw is in place (bottom of the pic) and the cables may be untidy, but are not trapped.

The front is somewhat tidier, but not screwed in place yet.

Back the right way up again, the roll bar back stay bracket and stay are fitted in the trunk.  

Now add the roll bar and screw it in from underneath.

Finally, fit the screws to hold the front of the cockpit.

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 98 Engine details

Firstly, put the connectors onto the pipes and push them onto the canisters.  The instructions mention one pipe being longer, but mine were all the same length. I'm not sure if this was a design change or a packing error, but either way, the final assembly went fine.  So no worries if yours are all the same length.

This instructions then say to connect some of the cables.  Sorry, I forgot to photo this stage, but there are photos of the wiring in a later stage.

[Pierre]

Nice work: the details are interesting

as for that air filter!

Couldn't this be an Eligor / Agora error?

is it not rather an oil cooler for cooling the oil of the axle / rear differential!
like in this picture

https://www.mikadoracing.com/index.php?action=DETAILLER&id_annonce=1887078

it's only a question that I ask

[wyatt]

Mark, you are doing a great job on this beauty. You must be close to the finish line.

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

On 11/12/2021 at 1:58 PM, Pierre said:

 

Couldn't this be an Eligor / Agora error?

is it not rather an oil cooler for cooling the oil of the axle / rear differential!

it's only a question that I ask

Thanks Pierre!  You could be right, but I’m not sufficiently familiar with the car to say either way. It struck me as an odd place to have an air cooler, but I’ve never seen a rear diff oil cooler either. 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

7 hours ago, wyatt said:

Mark, you are doing a great job on this beauty. You must be close to the finish line.

Thanks Wyatt. I’ll get the last couple of stages posted soon. Spoiler alert! The finished car looks amazing!

[Pierre]

On 11/14/2021 at 11:08 AM, Mark said:

Thanks Pierre!  You could be right, but I’m not sufficiently familiar with the car to say either way. It struck me as an odd place to have an air cooler, but I’ve never seen a rear diff oil cooler either. 

fitment on a BMW M3 E36 3.2

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 99.  More engine details, and the body gets fitted to the chassis.

Apologies for the delay in posting this - I'm in the process of moving house.  I'm currently trying to get decorating done before we move furniture in!

The wheels get removed to make fitting the body easier.  Then a pipe gets fitted to the flywheel cover.  This just pushes in and the other end is connected later.

Now make sure that the battery cable isn't crossing the square recess as that is for the brake switch.

Now we start connection the rest of the cables.  The headlight cables are fed through from the front of the chassis and the remaining cables between the chassis and body are connected.

Check that the cables are all tidy as you close the chassis on the body.

Pay attention to the rear of the transmission tunnel.  Make sure that none of the connectors are sitting int he tunnel as that may stop the chassis and body mating properly.

If all goes well, the chassis is now sitting neatly in the bodywork and the screw holes all line up.  Tighten all the screws and refit the wheels.

Check that the air trunk is properly located, connect the steering column then add the steering shaft top cover plate and the front cage left bar.

Push pipe 99c into the fire wall and fit pipe 99a.  Then fit the fuel pipe into the firewall.

Now very carefully fit the other end of the fuel pipe into the fuel pump.  Be very careful not to dislodge the plug leads in the distributor, or you can look forward to hours of fun trying to refit them.  Go on, ask me how I know!!

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 100!!  Yeah!!!!

We get the last of the engine details and finish the model!!

 

As the expert suggests, remove the bonnet!  It makes access so much easier and is easily refitted.

Fit the Radiator hose and the oil cooler pipe.

 

Now fit the oil vapour canister pipe.

 

Then the small radiator hose.

 

And the carb linkage.

Now fit the canister set the fender liner, pushing the pipes down through to the underside of the model.

 

 

The pipes push onto the battery box.  I needed a little superglue to hold these securely.

 

Fit the radiator bottom pipe.  The sway bar has also been screwed to the wishbones in this photo.

 

Secure the sway bar with the two brackets,

 

Push the exhaust pipes onto the manifolds.

 

Secure the exhausts to the chassis, and they look amazing!!

 

Re-fit the bonnet, fi the gear lever is you left it off earlier, and fit the hood support bar if this was removed during assembly.

That finishes the car!!

Here's a couple of shots of the finished car.  Sorry that they are a bit untidy but as I said, moving house is hampering things a little at the moment!

 

 

 

Of all the 1/8 partwork model cars I've built, this is hands down my favourite!  A simply stunning model from Agora!

[Ian Amstadter]

Thank you for your build walk through.  Absolutely amazing.

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

On 2/19/2022 at 4:04 AM, Ian Amstadter said:

Thank you for your build walk through.  Absolutely amazing.

I'm glad you enjoyed it Ian, I'm now just getting my teeth into the E-Type, which look equally impressive!

[Casper]

Stunning model Mark and a great diary of your build. Superb