Mark, The Master Modeller

Stage 61 gives us the exhaust manifolds, but first we fit the engine! Place the engine on the chassis and secure it with 4 type C screws. Be careful handling the engine as the details are vulnerable and easy to damage. The screws are fitted from underneath. 2 by the clutch bell housing and 2 towards the front of the sump. Take the front right exhaust manifold and instert the three pipes into the holes in the cylinder head. The pin on the other end of the manifold goes into the corresponding hole in the chassis. The rear right manifold is fitted next. The pin fits into the chassis next to the front manifold. You may need to glue these pins to stop them jumping out. The left manifolds are fitted in the same fashion. This completes the stage.

Stage 60 gives us the remaining parts of the steering mechanism. Take the left suspension assembly and fit this to the chassis with 2 type B screws in the same was as we fitted the left suspension assembly. Compress the suspension and fit the tie rod to the right stub axle and the idler arm. This is secured with 2 type J screws, Repeat the process to fit the second tie rod to the left stub axle and the pitman arm. FIt the steering shaft to the chassis, inserting the pin into the slot in the pitman arm. Secure this with the mounting plate and a type B screw. Now check that the steering moves smoothly. This completes the stage.

Stage 59 gives us the first part of the steering mechanism. Assemble the idler arm and the pitman arm to the center link as shown in the photo. Secure them with two type J screws. Fit the idler arm and the pitman arm to the chassis, and secure them with type J screws. Take the front right suspension and slide the connecting bracket onto the chassis. This is secured with a type B screw from the top. And a type B screw from below. Screw the steering box and its mount together with a type B screw. It can only be assembled one way. Fit this to the left suspension assembly with a type B screw. Here's a view from another angle. This completes the stage.

Stage 58 gives us the remainder of the pars for the front right suspension. Take the assembly from stage 57 and fit the connecting mount, paying attention to the orientation shown in the photo below. As in stage 56, the instructions suhhest fitting the spring and support now, but I will leave it off for now. It would only fall off anyway! Fit the first of the lower arms. This is the one without the hole for the fork bracket. Fit a type B screw in the connecting bracket and a type J screw in the stub axle. Now is a good time to fit the spring and support. Fit the remaining lower arm with a type B and a type J screw. Finally fit the fork bracket in the lower arm with a type C screw. This completes the stage.

Stage 57 gives us the first part of the front right suspension. Assembly is the same as for the front left suspension, to refer to stages 55 & 56 in Pack 7 for more details. Start by connecting an upper arm to the stub axle with a type J screw. Pay attention to the orientation of the parts as shown in the photo. Fit the second upper arm and the shock absorber to the stub axle with a type C screw. Note that it's the cylinder end of the shock absorber that is screwed in place. This completes the stage.

Glad that you’re enjoying my videos. My machining is all self taught, well, with a bit of advice from my brother and regular attendance at the YouTube University 😂 Stuart Models split from Stuart Turner some time ago, and are now in Bridport. As far as I know, ST are still producing pumps, but no idea where they are now. The Jag and Cobra are my 2 favourite cars from Agora’s lineup, but the Ferrari 250 GTO will also be up there. Fantastic models, but not quite pocket money kits!

That Daimler model is beautiful. I’m glad that you’re enjoying this project. I’ll carry on posting the build as I release the videos.

Slightly off topic, but perhaps of interest to some of our members, I have started building a new steam engine. This is the Stuart Progress Oscillating Steam Engine. This comes as a set of cast iron raw castings, some bar stock and a pack of screws and other fixings. The kit needs machining on a lathe and milling machine to finish. The first part I tackled was the flywheel. I have made a video of the machining process which is on Youtube. Not up to Wayne's standard, but hopefully not too bad! Here's the finished flywheel, all bar a bit of tidying up with a file and painting.

Stage 56 gives us the second part of the front left suspension. Take the connecting mount and fit it between the upper arms with two type B screws. The instructions say to fit the spring and spring support next, but I left these until a little later. They're only going to fall off! Taek the lower arm A, which had a hole in the middle, and screw it to the connecting mount (Type B screw) and the stub axle (Type J screw). Screw the fork bracket to the lower arm with a type C screw. This is a good time to fit the spring and spring support. Fit the second lower arm in place and secure with a type B and a type J screw. This completes the stage and the Pack.

Stage 55 gives us the first part of the front right suspension. Fit one of the upper arms to the stub axle with a type J screw. Put the second upper arm in place, but don't fix it with a screw just yet. Take the shock absorber and push a type C screw through the cylinder end. Use this assembly to secure the upper arm, which competes the stage.

Stage 53 gives us the right hand bonnet latch and straps. Stage 54 is a repeat of stage 53, so I won't bore you by repeating myself. Here's the completed stage.

Stage 53 gives us the bonnet catch and straps. The first job is to fit the two latch receivers. These are self adhesive and you need to remove the protective paper and press them into place. However, I found that they didn't stick very well, so I added a drop of PVA glue to make sure that they were properly secured. There is a bit too much glue in the picture. You need less than that! I definitely did that so it was more obvious on the photo, and most definitely wasn't being a bit ham fisted! Definitely!! However, it wipes off easily, which is the main reason for using PVA. You don't want to risk Superglue fogging or damaging the beautiful Ferrari Red paintwork! Take a spring (Agora supply two. One is bait for the carpet monster!) and slide it over a type I screw. Screw the latch in place from underneath. Don't over-tighten the screw as you need to be able to lift the latch clear of the latch receivers. It looks like this from underneath. Buckle the two pieces of strap together. The instructions advise you to remove the self adhesive backing tape on both parts and stick them in place. However, this means that you have to unbuckle the strap to lift the bonnet. However, I decided to only stick the strap to the bonnet, not the body. This means that you can lift the bonnet and the strap will lift, saving the fiddle of trying to undo the buckle. The strap lies on the body reasonably well, but not quite perfectly. This is just my preference. It's up to you whether you follow my lead or whether you prefer to follow the instructions. This completes the stage.

Stage 52 gives us the hot air ducts. Fit the primary duct as shown. It's secured with two type C screws. I found that it was reluctant to seat properly, but the screws pulled it home nicely. Sorry for the out of focus photo. I didn't notice that the autofocus had locked on to the cutting mat. Take the secondary duct and fit this with a single type C screw. Repeat on the other side of the car to complete the stage.

Stage 51 gives us the air intake covers and the Ferrari bonnet badge,. The front 3 covers are marked with L, M & R on the back. The 4th is unmarked. Remove the backing tape and press the covers in place. The Ferrari badge is pressed in place. I also added a spot of PVA glue to the back as it didn't seem that tight a fit. I don't recommend superglue as it may fog the paintwork. This completes the stage.

Stage 50 gives us the front grille and fog lights. Push the front grille into place. Fit the lenses to the fog light bodies. These are a push fit. Push the fog lights into the apertures in the front of the body. This completes the stage.