Mark's Super Snake

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Hi Folks, this is the abbreviated story of my Super Snake.  I'm posting a full diary on my own forum and will put the highlights here.  Links to my full diary are included with Agora's permission.

I'll be building the model as per the instructions, but with a few added details.  These will be easy enough to do if anybody wants to copy them, and I'll only be using commonly available stuff.  Paint, fuse wire, bits of rod or tubing, etc.  

Lets start with pack 1.

The first stage is nice and straight forward.  I routinely put a touch of Vaseline in the metal holes and it makes the screws go in so much easier.  

Stage 2 is equally straight forward.

 

Stage 3 doesn't present too may problems either.  Just make sure you get the hinge the right way round.  Flicking the hinge up as mentioned in the instructions certainly makes it easier to get the screw tight.

Stage 4 is a little more tricky.  Get the handle in the bracket as shown.

Carefully put the bracket in the door panel.

It looks like this from the outside (of the door, inside of the car - you know what I mean!  LOL!!)

Then hold it all in place, and screw the screws in.  This bit is definitely a bit fiddly!

Fit the window winder and lower trim, and screw the door together.  

Now you need to carefully slide the upper trim underneath the handle.  This is a bit nerve wracking, but the handle is stronger than it looks.

The seat is plain sailing.

The full diary is here.  http://www.partworkmodels.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=202&t=9159

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Pack 2.  This is mostly a repeat of pack one with the other door and seat, so it doesn't need much discussion.  I did have a bit of flash on the lower door trim.  Not a lot, and it the part could be forced into position.  However, it fits much better if you remove the flash.

This is easily removed by sanding it off.

The finished door looks like this.

The seat is dead easy!

The fuel tank is straight forward too.

I did touch in the screw heads with Tamiya flat aluminium paint to make them a bit less conspicuous.  They will be visible if you open the boot (OK, trunk as it's an American car!)

Again, my full diary is here.  http://www.partworkmodels.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=202&t=9159

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Pack 3. It all gets a bit bigger now, with the back axle and the rear chassis.

The rear chassis goes on no problem.  It fitted like Lego!!

The floor pan goes on now, but has to be removed some time in the future.  

I screwed the part in tightly and then backed the screws off a turn.  This ensures that the self tapping screws have cut the thread completely, so when you come to remove and re-fit the floor pan, it will come off easily, and more importantly, tighten up easily as well.  We don't know how much detail will have been added by then, and it we don't want to risk damaging the model by having to apply lots of force tightening screws.

The back axle goes together easily.  Just make sure you get the T slot the right way up!!

The springs go on the back axle and fit into this hole.  Watch you don't press on the fuel filler when the model is upside down.

A bit of making tape to hold the springs in place makes this a lot easier!

The wheel arch is easy.

The leaf springs are not too difficult, but pay attention to make sure everything goes the right way round.  It's easy to get parts the wrong way round if you're not careful.  The pin fixing the shackle to the spring deserves a mention.  It goes in from either side, and it goes in fairly easily.  If you're struggling to push it in, it's probably not lined up with the hole in the far side of the shackle.  I actually tapped these in with a small hammer as I didn't have a large enough pair of pliers handy.  It only needed a very gentle tap.

The finished spring fits like this.  It was a bit of a game getting the shackles lined up with the holes in the chassis but goes in easily enough when everything is lined up properly.

The spring plate went on very easily.  Again, make sure it's the right way round.

The other side is a repeat, and the finished pack looks like this.

My full dairy is here.  http://www.partworkmodels.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=202&t=9159

 

 

 

 

[scalemodelfan]

Awesome photos too! Great stuff.

[wyatt]

I agree with scalemodelfan, your pics are really good and will be very helpful in building this kit. Your post here is like the 'Reader's Digest' version.

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Thanks guys.  Glad you like the style and find it useful.

The pics are just taken with an iPhone.  Nothing fancy.  Just careful framing so you don't  see the clutter on the rest of the table 😊

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

I've now got pack 4 of Agora's Shelby Super Snake.  Most of this issue is completing the chassis, although we make a start on the steering mechanism.

Stage 23.  The middle chassis.

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This is simply fitted with 4 screws, lubricated with Vaseline of course.

The completed stage looks like this.

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Stage 24.  The front floor pan.

This is what you get.

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This is held in place with 9 screws.  This instructions remind us that this will need to be removed to fit the exhaust pipes, so I screwed it firmly into place, then backed the screws off 1/2 a turn so they will come out easily.  

When you fit the part in place, make sure the tabs go down flush with the chassis.  Also be very careful tightening these screws as they will strip the threads very easily.

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The finished stage looks like this.

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Stage 25 is the drive shaft.

It comes in two halves.

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and goes together like this.  

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It's fitted like this.  Note that the round pin goes int eh gearbox, and the flat, T shaped tab goes in the rear diff housing.  Be careful not to damage the fuel filler pipe while the model is upside down.

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Stage 26 gives us the gearbox and crossmember.

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The gearbox goes in like this, and is screwed from the top.

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Followed by the crossmember.

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Stage 27 gives us the front chassis.

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This goes on easily with 4 screws.  This is getting BIG now.  And it's getting difficult to photograph in my work space while keeping the clutter out of shot!

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Stage 28, the front fender splash guards.  I think I'd call these the wheel arch closing plates, but it is an American car!

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This is the right hand side.  Note the orientation.  Usually I use the Agora provided screwdriver as it's a nice comfortable tool to hold.  However, a screwdriver with a longer shaft makes these parts easier to fit.

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This is the left hand side.  This completes the basic chassis.

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Stage 29.  The steering rods.

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These go together with 2 screws.  Watch the orientation of the parts!  My first thought was to screw these up without using any Vaseline as these parts will move and you don't want them working loose.  However, The screws were very tight going in, so I relented and did add a smear to the threads.  The screws are still quite tight to go in, and it's not like the model is going to be played with, so I don't think there is any chance they will come loose.  Back the screws off 1/4 of a turn if the arms don't move freely.

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Stage 30 gives us a couple of suspension brackets and some more of the steering mechanism.

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The brackets go on like this.  They are identical, so it doesn't matter which side is which.

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The steering gear goes on like this.

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It's screwed from the other side, and the screw is very deep in the chassis, so a magnetised screwdriver is a must.

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The Pitman are goes on the steering rods.  Again, back the screw off 1/4 turn if the arm doesn't move freely.

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This completes the stage.  My model now looks like this.

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Here's a link to Agora's web site. https://www.agoramodels.com/super-snake/

[Mario´s Schiffsmodellbau]

Oh, so big. Very beautiful.

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

22 hours ago, Mario´s Schiffsmodellbau said:

Oh, so big. Very beautiful.

It's massive!!  The finished car is going to be a real star!

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

On with Pack 5.  

Stage 31 gives us the stabiliser bar and lower suspension arms.

This is what we get

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First off, I found that I'd got the suspension brackets on the wrong way round.  Either nobody spotted it, or everybody was too polite to point out the mistake!  Anyway, it's an easy matter to unscrew them and refit them the right way round.  This is what they should look like.

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Place the component in position.
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Put the pins in the lower suspension arms, like this.

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Squeeze home fully.  

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The strut rods are screwed into the slots in the chassis.  When tightened, they should still be free to slide in the slots.  This is to allow the suspension to move.

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Now the tie rod assembly is fitted.  This just slides over the pitman arm.

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The steering rack fits under the steering gear like this.

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I taped the arms in place with masking tape to save them flapping about loose.  This completes this pack.

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Stage 32 The upper suspension arms.

These are the parts we get.

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The arms are assembled with the pins.  Be careful to get the parts the right way round.

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Pins driven fully home.

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Then simply screw the brackets in place.  Simples!!

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This completes this stage.

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Stage 33 The front floor and gear lever.

These are the parts we get.

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The lever was taped to the underside of the floor which keeps it safe from any damage.

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The carpet is represented with flocking, and is really nice.  

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One screw and we're done!

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The printing on the knob is superb!!

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To be continued......

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 34.  Here we fit the pedals and switches.

These are the parts we get.

First off, the inner side walls are fitted to the floor.

 

They are secured with three screws each.

Now we move on to the switches.  These are a little bit fiddly, but not too bad.  Make sure you get them the right way round; the instructions are clear.  They just sit int he bracket and are a little loose.  This is normal, as stated in the instructions, and they work just fine when that is finished.

Then place the bracket on the underside of the floor, pick up the switch that just fell out, and try again!   :lol:   When they are in position, fix with the screw.  

Make sure that the buttons are pocking into the holes in the floor.  Not a great photo, but it's a small black button recessed in a small hole surrounded by black flocking!  That's my excuse, and I'm sticking to it!!

The pedals go on nice and easily.  They didn't work the switches until the screws were tight.  However, once the screws are tighten (don't over tighten and strip them) they work perfectly and have a nice satisfying click.

This is the completed stage.

Stage 35.  The dashboard.

Here's what we get.

The fuse cover fits like this.

Just fitted with one screw in the back.

There is an inset photo on the 'completed stage' page on the instructions saying that there may be a carpeted peg in a hole.  This will be where they put a plug in the screw hole so it doesn't get filled up with flock.  Mine was clear, but I guess there may be the odd one missed, so it's worth checking this carefully.

Here is the dash resting on the floor.  

Stage 36.  This is a nice stage where we add some 60's chrome to the dash!!

I added the stickers with a pair of tweezers.

They end up looking like this.

Give the dial glasses a polish and place them in the trim.

Then put the trim in place.

Now add the dashboard strip, and screw it in place.  You need to push it on straight or the bushes for the screws are reluctant to go in their holes.

Apply the G.T. 500 sticker carefully.

Screw this in place thus.  I found the MP05 screws were a bit long to go in easily, so I changed them for some spare MP03 screws from the spares box.  

Here's the completed stage.

Stage 37 is the 60's style radio, dials and a glove box (Who's going to be first to make some 1/8 scale driving gloves ?)

The radio goes on first.  Again, this has some lovely fine printing on it.

As before, stickers represent the dials.

Glass in place.

Bezels screwed in place.  As the instructions hint, the MP05 screw did strip the thread, but a spare MP01 screw held firmly.

The dials screwed in place.

The glove box inner screws in place easily.

Then the cover just clips into place.  

Finally screw it into place to the floor.  

Here's the completed stage.  

Stage 38 completes this pack with the rear floor and the front seat belts.  Only lap belts in this car.  

Incidentally, modern seat belts came in 1958 when Swedish engineer Nils Bohlin invented the three-point seatbelt for Volvo.  Volvo opened up the patent so all car manufacturers could fit these style belts, which have saved countless lives.  The original lap belt was a British invention the 1800s.

Anyway, I digress.  These are the parts we get.

The anchors just clip into the floor.  There were quite tight and needed a firm push to get in.  Be careful to keep them straight as you push or you'll risk bending the tabs,.

Both anchors fitted then the front and rear floor sections are screwed together.

Feed the belts through he slots in the floor.  Tweezers definitely help with this!!  Make sure you get the belt the Shelby logo facing upwards.

Fit the metal buckles over the posts like this.

Masking tape is added carefully as suggested by their expert.

I also taped the wires to the bottom of the floor as a temporary measure to stop them getting tangles or snagged.

This completes the pack.  I do like the way Agora are building up the model is a sensible order.  Not jumping about like many other partwork series do.

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

I've got pack 6 now.  Stage 39 gives us the floor mats and fire extinguishers.

The front floor mats fit like this.  I found that these required a lot of effort to get the mats to locate in the holes.  I cleared out the holes as recommended in the instructions, but it still too a very firm push with a flat screwdriver blade to get the pegs firmly in the holes.

This is what it should look like from the bottom.

The rear mats go like this.  The instructions say to put the long strip at the rear, but they don't fit properly.  There is a large hole and peg, and a small hole and peg, so they only go one way.  Mine went with the long strip at the front.  You could drill out the smaller holes if you wished and fit the mats the right way round according to the instructions.  However, it's a very small detail, so I'm happy to fit them as below.

Then the seats are fitted with 2 screws for each seat, and the seatbelts can then clip int he buckles.  Just be careful not to trap the belts under the seat when you fix the seats.
The seats are marked with L & R so no excuses for getting them wrong!

On to the fire extinguisher.  This clips together as shown.

Tweezers help to apply the sticker accurately.

And the whole thing clips in between the seats nicely.

This completes the stage.

Stage 40 gives us the rear seat support.

This clips in place fairly well.

Then screws in place with 4 screws.  Make sure the centre pip is properly located.

The completed stage looks like this.

Stage 41 gives us the interior rear platform

Three screws and we're done.

The completed stage looks like this.

Stage 42 gives us the left rear interior panel.

This is a decorative accessory.  That's probably what I'd call it if I didn't know what it was either!!  Anyway, it's shiny, looks nice, and screws in with a screw from the back!

The seat panel release (folding rear seat!) is also screwed in from the back.

It's fitted with three screws.

The completed stage looks like this.

Stage 43 gives us the left upper interior panel.

The decorative panel fits like this, and is screwed in place with 2 screws in the back.

Then this is fixed with 1 small screw and 2 larger screws.  I found it best to get all three points properly locates as best you can, then put all the screws in loosely before tightening them all.

Here's the completed stage.

Stage 44 gives the the trunk partition panel.  

The instructions tell you to clear any flash from the slots in the pegs, and you need to.  The pegs (tenons) won't go in the holes if you don't.

Then it clips in and fixes with three screws.

The completed stage looks like this.

Stage 45 gives us the start of the folding rear seat.

The piano hinge is really nice and articulates perfectly.  It's fitted in place with 3 really tine screws.  Hope you remembered to magnetise your screwdriver.

The instructions say it will only go one way round, but it's not completely idiot proof.  I should know, I've spent most of my career trying to make things idiot proof.  Unfortunately they keep making more creative idiots!  Anyway, I digress.  Pay close attention to the pictures in the instructions and it's easy to get it the right way round.

Stage 46 gives us the rest of the back seat.

Push the two parts together firmly.

The more tiny screws and you end up with this.

It moves really nicely!  

This is the model at the end of this pack.  Obviously the cabin is just sat in place, but it's looking really nice now.

[Beamerboy]

Loving the pictures and descriptions, Mark!

 

Can you at all break your build diary into subsets for each pack as you go? The one entry takes heaps of scrolling to get to the latest content. I’ve seen General Lou manage it for his builds, so hopefully it can work for you too.

[Mario´s Schiffsmodellbau]

Cool , very nice detail´s. 

Greetings Mario

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Thanks guys!  

It shouldn't be a problem to split the diary into smaller posts.  I'll probably group them in related sections.

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

I'll split the diary posts into sensibly grouped sections, rather than individual stages.  Hopefully this will make it a bit easier to navigate.

Here we go with Pack 7.  

Stage 47 gives us the right interior panel

The assembly is the same as stage 42.  

When you assemble it, pay attention to making sure the back of the panel fits properly.  I started at the back and worked forwards.  Here's a close-up showing the rear correctly fitted.  If the rear most screw holes don't line up easily, it's probably not fitted quite right.

Then the rest pretty much falls into place.

It should end up all fitting nicely.  

Then clip the seat in place.  The instructions say to leave the front screw out, but I found that the seat clipped in easily with all the screws fitted.

It folds down really nicely!  This completes the stage.

Stage 48. Right upper panel

This is identical to stage 43 so I won't repeat myself.  This is the completed stage.

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 49 Lower dash panel, roll bar and seat belts.

The lower dash panel is tricky to fit in situ, but it's very easy to remove the dashboard.  Just remove 2 screws.

Then the panel can be fitted very easily.

From the front, then it's a simple matter to refit the dash.

Next the seat belts and roll bar.

First the belts are fitted into the retractor housings.  This must be one of the first cars to be fitted with inertia reel seat belts.

Then the housing is screwed to the roll bar.  Repeat for the other belt.

Then the roll bar is fitted to the cabin.  The pegs go in the holes easy enough, but they do need to be straight.

The ends of the belts go in the slots in the floor.  This proofed to be easier than I expected.  

They didn't seem to located very firmly on the pegs.

A bit of masking tape made sure they weren't going anywhere!

Finally, bring the belts over the corners of the seats.  This was a little bit of a stretch.  This completes the issue.

Stage 50 Rear seat and belts.

The inner belts are fitted thus.

The outer belts are fitted int eh same manner, then this is subassembly is screwed in place.  This completes this stage.

Stage 51 The rear platform.

The two main parts clip together.

Then this is screwed in place.

The two setback locks are screwed in place.

This completes this stage.

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

On to the wheels next with stage 52 and the front left wheel.

The first wheel is wrestled onto the tyre!  The instructions are pretty good with the process.  Boiling water, then let the tyre soak for a few minutes.  Pick them up with tweezers.  Dry the excess water off with a tissue, and then work the tyre onto the wheel.  Be careful not to catch the tyre valve. It looks quite delicate.

Untitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The hub goes on to the brake disc cover.

Put the brake disc in place.

Then the disc is held in place with the caliper.  This is secured with an MD04 screw.  This didn't seem to hold very securely, so I reinforced it with a drop of superglue around the screw head.  This wicked into the assembly and it all seemed a lot more rigid.

Untitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

I pre-threaded the hub with the MD02 screw, with some Vaseline applied.  This makes it much easier to fit the wheel.  It's difficult to fully thread the screw with the wheel in place.

The fitted wheel from the back....

....and from the front.  The decorative centre is pushed in place, although not too firmly in case I want to remove the wheels again.  This completes the stage.

Stage 53 is the front right wheel and tyre.

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 54, silencer and exhaust pipes.

This assembly is a little tricky.  Firstly, loosely assemble the silencer.  It need to be loose enough sot he can fiddle the pipes in the holes.  Then fit the right intermediate pipe and straight pipe in the right holes, and tighten the right screw.

Now insert the left pipes and tighen the left screw in the silencer.

Now take the mufflers and scrape the chrome off the pegs....

....and superglue them in place.  Removing the chrome plating serves 2 purposes.  It gives you a stronger glued joint (chrome plating doesn't take glue very well at all) and also helps the mufflers fit better.

This completes the stage.

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 55 The front right wheel

This assembly is the same as stage 52, so I won't repeat myself.  After all, we can all copy and paste! LOL!!

This is the completed stage.

Lay the wheels and steering rack as they are fitted to ensure you get them the right way round.  It's also worth rethreading the screw holes, using some Vaseline to make assembly easier.

Screw the steering arms to the tie rods.  

Here's a close up of the left wheel.

and the right wheel.

Then the hubs are secured to the upper and lower suspension arms.  When positioning the steering rack and tie rods, make sure the rack and pitman arm are correctly fitted.  You can refer back to stage 29 for more details.

This is the upper suspension arm.

The front wheels and suspension should now look like this.

The model looks like this at the end of pack 7.  

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

I've got Pack 8 now.

Stage 56.  Rear shock and brake

This is what we get

First off, assemble the shock cylinder to the mounting bracket with the pin.  This one goes very easily.  It just took a light squeeze with a pair of pliers.

Remove the spring plate.  (On the other side I discovered you can actually tithe shock quite easily without removing the plate)

Fit the shock cylinder assembly.  Note that this only goes one way round.  It's obviously wrong if you get it wrong.  However, it's impossible to photo as it's buried too deep and too dark.

Fit the shock piston.

Put it all back together.  Job done!

You can test fit the brake drum, but there's little point as it's all loose and floppy at this stage.

This completes the stage.

Stage 57, left rear wheel.

Another tyre wrestling session.  

Pop the brake drum in place....

...and fit the wheel.  This is much easier to screw in place than the front wheels were, as the axle is plastic, not metal.

Three wheels on my wagon!

Stage 58, right rear suspension and brake.

Similar parts to stage 56.

I did this side without removing the plate.  It goes easily.

Stage 59, the penultimate tyre wresting match!!

Then fit the wheel.  

Hurray!!  Now we have all four wheels fitted.  

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 60, the exhaust system

This is what we get

The first job is to remove the rear floor pan.  

Then wiggle the exhaust system into place, and screw it in place with a total of 6 screws.  The exhaust went in OK, but it was a bit fiddly getting all the screw holes lined up.  Tip.  Get all the screws in loosely before tightening any of them.  It's an old engineering trick.  It allows the parts to move a bit making it easier to get the last couple of screws in.

Then put the floor pan back.  You also need to ensure all the other floor pan screws are tight as well.

Now fit the 3 parts of the exhaust system together.  

Now clip the resonators into the rear assembly, then screw them in place from the top of the model.

Now finish the assembly by screwing the front pipes to the floor panel.

Tis completes the stage, and the exhaust system for now.

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 61, the steering wheel.  This one is a little tricky to assemble at times.

This is what we get.

The first job is the hammer the pinion onto the shaft.  This needs to go all the way down, or the cockpit tub won't fit onto the chassis properly.  Go on, ask me how I know.....
If you can see any hint of the flat on the shaft, you need to give it another tap or two.  The shaft seems pretty strong, but keep it completely vertical, and give it firm taps, but you're not trying to ring the bell at the fairground game!  Several medium taps is much safer than a few hard hits.  

The push button goes on the column cover like this, and you'll need to bend the wires to get it to fit.  Again, be firm, but not violent.  This photo is from a little later in the assembly, but it shows the switch position well.

Now insert the shaft and feed the wire down the side of the side of the cover.  Note that it goes outside the screw lug.

Add the other half of the cover, and screw it all up.  Again, be careful not to trap the wire, and make sure the switch is properly seated.

Add the steering wheel.  It just pushes on.  (Excuse the Tardis pencil holder.  It was all I could find to hold the column to take a decent photo.  3D printers are great though!)

Then push the horn push on.  Again, it just clips in.  You can also put the horn push on the steering wheel and then add the two parts.  That's actually slightly easier.
Now check that you can feel the click of the button as you push the horn push.  If not, pull the steering wheel off and reseat the parts.  You seem to have to get it 'just right' for it to work reliably.

This completes the stage.

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 62, the trunk panel.

Nothing to do with this yet, but this is the part.

Moving swiftly on.....

Stage 63, the spare wheel, and we assemble the cockpit to the chassis.

This is the spare wheel assembled.  Ok, confession time!  It's not the spare wheel.  It's a photo of one of the road wheels...I forgot to take of photo of the spare!  The difference is the spare wheel doesn't have the studs.  Anyway, I'm glad that the tyres wrestling matches are over.

Moving on to the cockpit, firstly put the steering column assembly into the cockpit.  It will stick out like this.  Note the way the wire comes out.

Screwing the column in place is a bit tricky.  Start by making sure the screw hole is lined up perfectly.

Put the column connect over the screw, then screw it into place.  It should end up looking like this.

Put the cockpit in place.  Make sure that the wires aren't trapped underneath!

The steering pinion must fit like this.

Add the retainer.  It just pushes in.

Now make sure the screw holes are all lines up properly and screw the cockpit to the chassis.  I found this was a bit reluctant.  The post of the screws slot fit into round sockets in the chassis, and it's a very positive location.  Make sure they are properly seated before trying to put the screws in.  The back ones went in quite easily, but it took a fair bit of persuasion to get the front ones in.  It's easier to put the front ones in first, then click in the back ones.  Get them all in before adding the screws.  

When done, it looks like this (bonus points if you spotted this is the same photo as earlier! LO!!)

Make sure the wires for the pedals come out the side like this.

This completes this stage.  Give yourself a pat on the back, the car is looking really good now!

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 64.  Fitting the truck panels and spare wheel.

These are the parts we get.

Start off by slipping the three parts of the truck together.

Then clip them in place.  Don't screw them in yet.

Screw the jack to the spare wheel.  You could improve the jack with a bit of painting to pick out the screw thread, but I decided not to as you can't see it!

Add the spare wheel lock, it just pushes in.

Now push the spare in place in the holes in the truck.  I found this was much easier if the right hand trunk panel was completely removed. 

The truck panel is refitted very easily after the spare wheel is in place.  

This completes this pack.