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James H

James H's Terminator T-800

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I'll stick my flag in the ground here and create the first member build diary for the 1:2 Terminator T-800!

Whilst I've never really been a Sci-Fi fan, some stuff does grab me.....such as Blake's 7, Space 1999, Terminator, Star Wars etc., so pretty much a lot of the classic Sci-Fi. Agora's new T-800 hits the sweet spot for me, and in a massive half-scale too! This has been previously released by Hachette in other sales territories, and this release incorporates the fix to the original floppy fingers problem that plagued the original release. The first pack is a sizeable box too, so time to dive in and start some building! This will be entirely out-of-box, with no mods etc, although there are some out there if you do a little searching.

PACK 1

Stage 1: Components for head and eyes
Just to tempt us straight away, it's common for these models to supply something very recognisable. In this case, it's the upper face in all it's metal, metallic glory. 

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The first step is to push the eye pupils/lenses into the chromed eye orbits. These are a nice, snug fit.

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Next, taking extreme care with the wires, the LEDs are now pushed fully into the orbits.

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These completed eyes can now be installed to the inner face plate. Orientation of these is very important as they will later be connected to a motor so the eyes will move from side to side. The outer pegs on these must go upwards when fitted. Once in position, the eyes are then held captive by a brace which is screwed into position.

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Creepy!

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Stage 2: Components for the head and right arm
Hot on the heels of the upper face, I now build the upper jaw.

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The face panel I just built is secured to the upper jaw as shown here. The two parts only fit together in one way. 

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Injection moulded plastic parts are supplied for the upper teeth, and these are installed as 5 separate parts, secured in place by a spot of CA gel as this gives more time to work with the parts and get them in absolutely the right position. 

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Some heavy metal work now as the upper arm begins construction. These parts form the swivel attachment at the shoulder, and align when these indents are together. Two screws hold everything securely.

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Stage 3: Components for the right arm and right arm
The arm components in here form a piston which operates as the tricep. This is the main body of the piston, but as yet without the plunger. A screw holds all three components securely.

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You now need to fit 3x AAA batteries to the box. Once you've done that, plug it into the small LED testing board, and then plug each eye into that board, in turn. Each should light very brightly. 

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Spreading the workload around a little, the first finger is now built, using the updated parts which stop the fingers from being floppy. In a change to the instructions, I find it easier to insert the sleeve between the joints, and then the pin. This was, the sleeve doesn't bunch up underneath the joint, and good the full depth. The small cap is then plugged into the pin, to finish it off.

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Stage 4: New components for the upper right arm
We get a good stab at the upper arm with this stage, and start to see some things come together. 

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First, the bicep piston is built, and the plunger, complete with rubber seal, is inserted.

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The plunger is also built and inserted for the tricep piston we built earlier.

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The articulated should joint is now built. First, the previous part is now fitted with plastic grips.

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Both tricep and bicep pistons are now fitted to the main bone of the arm, and the shoulder socket pushed into place. When everything is in situ, the large metal arm part from Stage 2, is then used to lock everything together via the piston screws.

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Stage 5: Components for the lower jaw and neck
Back to the head now, with this lower head plate and neck socket. 

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The neck socket is first screwed together and sat into the hole in the lower head, once the black plastic ring is first seated.

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A small cap now protects the top of the socket and a bracket screws into position to lock everything.

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Stage 6: Teeth of lower jaw, and the bridge of nose
As with the upper jaw, the lower jaw now receives some detail treatment. All parts plug snugly into the jaw and are fixes with a spot of CA gel.

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The nose bridge is also fitted after a little CA gel is put into the two locating holes in the face.

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Stage 7: Components for upper arm and head motor

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A little more attention is now paid to the should area of the T-800, with this ratchet joint. The ratchet place is first glued into the shoulder part, and the unit GLUED into the previous assembly, using more CA gel. 

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More upper arm parts screwed together . Once done, this is put to one side until we get another pack.

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One last thing we need to do on this stage is to put the two plastic parts together that relate to the head motor.

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Stage 8: Components for right thumb and right palm
Time to get handy again as we look at the right palm and some finger parts. The next finger fits together exactly as the previous, plus both are now finally fitted to the palm.

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Stage 9: Components for right-hand side of head
This pack contains just two parts and a pack os screws. The right hand side of the head has its mechanical plate fitted and secured with two screws. That's it for this!

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Stage 10: Inner eye sockets and right middle finger
Back to the head again. The eye sockets are now fitted within the upper metal face panel. I didn't find these needed any glue, and the instructions only say use it if needed anyway. 

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Oh, and another finger is built and fitted!

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That's it until I receive Pack 2 🤪

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You're off to a great start James. Great pics and thanks for sharing.

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Pack 2 hit the doorstep on Friday.....before the postman scurried off in case he caught the Black Death from me, so I thought I'd make an immediate start on and supplement the skeletal parts I'd built from the previous pack.

PACK 2

Another sizeable box too with plenty of parts to play with. Let's crack on!

Stage 11: Assembling neck and jaw joints

Well, we've started the head, so we may as well get some neck done. This pack contains half of the neck, the neck joint and some bushes/screws.

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The first thing to do is to connect the two halves of the neck knuckle joint. Three screws does this job nicely. I used a thin screwdriver because of diameter of holes.

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The black plastic head motor joint that was made in Stage 7 can now be fitted to the lower jaw. This is just squeezed in a little and aligned with the pin holes in the lower jaw. Once fitted, the jaw is then connected to the lower head section and the two bushes inserted into the connecting holes, followed by two fixing screws. The jaw will move and shouldn't be too tight.

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Stage 12: Assembling the right forearm

This simple pack builds up into the lower arm...

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First thing I needed to do was to use superglue to connect the muscle springs to one of the main forearm parts. I used CA gel for this as it gives a few seconds to get it exactly right.

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The springs and the connector are then screwed to the main forearm 'bone', and the cap attached.

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Stage 13: Assembling the neck and right finger component

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Pretty obvious that this pack's main focus is the neck, and now we can complete it. The knuckle I previously made is screwed to the neck half that was supplied with that pack, and the lower head/jaw assembly sat into position. The opposite neck half is now laid over this and the final screws attached for the knuckle and head. To hide those screws, small plates are pushed into position over them, making the joint invisible.

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I also assembled the half a finger supplies, exactly as I did in Pack 1. This will be shown next.

 

 

Stage 14: Adding to the right lower arm, and assembling fourth right finger

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Three piston tubes are supplied here. these are slowed into the end of the cap and the piston tubes attached (shorter one in middle). A screw then holds everything together, whilst allowing the piston tubes to move freely.

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The previous finger is now completed and fitted to the hand, as shown. In my case, all finger joints seem to be nice and tight, and again, I fit the plastic sleeve BEFORE adding the pin, as it stops the sleeve bunching up and not inserting fully.

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Stage 15: Assembling part of the left head and the fifth finger of right hand

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A whole new finger is supplied here and this is first built and fitted to the hand. All fingers are now present and correct! I resisted the temptation to form it into a well-known gesture! 🤣

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The head side panel is also built as per the previous one.

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Stage 16: Begin the assembly of the first lower arm

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The lower arm now really starts to take form. The black plastic rotator ring that controls articulation, is push fitted to the arm joint built in Stage 7. This is then aligned with the large cuff in this pack, and the lower arm unit with piston tubs, slotted into position and screwed together.

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The piston plungers now have their rubber sealing cups added, and these are inserted into the lower arm piston tubes.

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Stage 17: Fitting sides of the head to the top of the head

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Both completed head side panels are now screwed to the top skull piece from inside, and the unit put to one side until later.

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The three ball joints are now screwed to the underside of the palm.

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Stage 18: Assembling the eye motor support

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Back to the head again now as the plastic bar from Stage 1 is now sat onto the pins on both eyes, locking them into position. To secure this bar in place, a plastic block is screwed into position above it. The eyes will now move freely, and together.

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The eye motor is now secured in position. Everything was assembled as supplied as it all seemed to be aligned.

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The upper face/eye unit is now screwed to the lower head. These screws are neatly hidden in the underside palette. Starting to look a little eery now. 😎

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Stage 19: Assembling the head motor

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Of course, the head needs another motor to operate the jaw, and first the two-part gearbox is assembled, and the motor secured to the motor housing. 

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The gearbox is now fitted to the motor housing.

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Stage 20: Assembling and mounting the head motor support

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After the motor support is securely fixed in place, the motor is fitted to it and the 'U'-shaped casing added. This holds the motor to the mounting. Make sure that you don't nip/damage any cables at this juncture, as there's a few wires waving about. (and no....I didn't damage any myself! 🤣)

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The head is temporarily made to look a little angular as the two brackets are then screwed into position. 

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That's it until the next pack. What a great build!

 

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Stage 21: Assemble right shoulder and connect up skull

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Nice and simple. The ratchet discs are glued into the shoulder joint. CA is used for quite a few bits in this latest pack.

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Some little covers are now glued into place to hide the jaw screws. I used white glue for these in case I need to pop them off afterwards and adjust the tension of the screws.

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These little pillars are superglued into the top of the head. I can only think they are to stick to magnets on the later panel. These fit perfectly. The top of the head is then screwed into place, being careful not to trap the wires.

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Stage 22: Connect the jaw, assemble the head

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These are a little fiddly to make as there are tiny pins that are needed for the pivot. Once made, they are glued into position on the jaw, but left unglued at the skull so they can move when the jaw opens/closes.

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And now for the face! This just pushes into position.

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Stage 23: Assemble the right shoulder joint

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Simply put....the shoulder joint. The instructions warn about orientation of parts, but they can be turned afterwards anyway. This is most important when it comes to fitting the later sections.

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Stage 24: Connect right hand to right arm

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I've looked forward to this....fitting the arm together!The knuckle is built, then screwed to the hand this then plugs into the larger lower arm piston, and then the other pistons are plugged into the hand. The springs are threaded through the holes in the hand and then connected to the lower finger area with a cap/plug that's glued in place with CA.

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Stage 25: Assemble right shoulder

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The shoulder can now come together. The orientation of the various orbital components is vital. Just follow the instructions to get it right! The joint is then closed up with the large captive spring.

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Some detail is then glued onto the joint. I removed the chrome plating from any plastic that needs to be glued to the metal.

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Stage 26: Connect right arm to elbow joint

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This part now needs to be unscrewed from the lower arm so that the upper arm can be fitted. Ratchet discs are then glued into position.

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The upper arm is connected to the lower arm with the forward piston first. This has a washer fitted to either side and is held captive by refitting the plate we just removed.

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Now the rear piston can be connected once the small metal sleeve is slotted into place. A screw holds it secure.

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The elbow pin is then inserted and tightened from the other side with a he'd-heqd screw. This can be locked and unlocked to position the arm.

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Stage 27: Assembling left and right shoulders

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The right shoulder socket is assembled and glued onto the joint. More superglue at work here!

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Stage 28: Continuing assembly of left and right shoulders

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Now for something meaty. The joint now has a neoprene sleeve fitted, followed by the shoulder plate and pin/cap assembly. This needs to be done carefully as the pin is plastic and is fragile until inserted. No.....I didn't damage mine!

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More of the same for this, as per the other shoulder. There is some repetition in these stages as we are working on areas on both arms simultaneously.

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Stage 29: Left shoulder build continues

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Stage 30: extend the left shoulder

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I'm presuming we start the other arm and continue with the shoulder in the next pack. I can't wait to start bolting sections together!

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Absolutely love the pictures James! Thank you for your efforts.

wyatt

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File the sharp edges on the ends that spring down and add a little grease otherwise the shoulder will get stuck rotating in one direction, if it doesnt happen now, it will later you have been warned lol

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