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James H

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James H last won the day on July 29

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About James H

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  • Birthday 02/26/1970

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  1. Stage 21: Assemble right shoulder and connect up skull Nice and simple. The ratchet discs are glued into the shoulder joint. CA is used for quite a few bits in this latest pack. Some little covers are now glued into place to hide the jaw screws. I used white glue for these in case I need to pop them off afterwards and adjust the tension of the screws. These little pillars are superglued into the top of the head. I can only think they are to stick to magnets on the later panel. These fit perfectly. The top of the head is then screwed into place, being careful not to trap the wires. Stage 22: Connect the jaw, assemble the head These are a little fiddly to make as there are tiny pins that are needed for the pivot. Once made, they are glued into position on the jaw, but left unglued at the skull so they can move when the jaw opens/closes. And now for the face! This just pushes into position. Stage 23: Assemble the right shoulder joint Simply put....the shoulder joint. The instructions warn about orientation of parts, but they can be turned afterwards anyway. This is most important when it comes to fitting the later sections. Stage 24: Connect right hand to right arm I've looked forward to this....fitting the arm together!The knuckle is built, then screwed to the hand this then plugs into the larger lower arm piston, and then the other pistons are plugged into the hand. The springs are threaded through the holes in the hand and then connected to the lower finger area with a cap/plug that's glued in place with CA. Stage 25: Assemble right shoulder The shoulder can now come together. The orientation of the various orbital components is vital. Just follow the instructions to get it right! The joint is then closed up with the large captive spring. Some detail is then glued onto the joint. I removed the chrome plating from any plastic that needs to be glued to the metal. Stage 26: Connect right arm to elbow joint This part now needs to be unscrewed from the lower arm so that the upper arm can be fitted. Ratchet discs are then glued into position. The upper arm is connected to the lower arm with the forward piston first. This has a washer fitted to either side and is held captive by refitting the plate we just removed. Now the rear piston can be connected once the small metal sleeve is slotted into place. A screw holds it secure. The elbow pin is then inserted and tightened from the other side with a he'd-heqd screw. This can be locked and unlocked to position the arm. Stage 27: Assembling left and right shoulders The right shoulder socket is assembled and glued onto the joint. More superglue at work here! Stage 28: Continuing assembly of left and right shoulders Now for something meaty. The joint now has a neoprene sleeve fitted, followed by the shoulder plate and pin/cap assembly. This needs to be done carefully as the pin is plastic and is fragile until inserted. No.....I didn't damage mine! More of the same for this, as per the other shoulder. There is some repetition in these stages as we are working on areas on both arms simultaneously. Stage 29: Left shoulder build continues Stage 30: extend the left shoulder I'm presuming we start the other arm and continue with the shoulder in the next pack. I can't wait to start bolting sections together!
  2. STAGE 39: INTERIOR DETAILS Front and Rear Floor Mats and Fire Extinguisher With this new pack, Agora is sticking with working on the interior, and there's detail work as well as the various panels. This first set of parts contains the rubber floor mats and fire extinguisher. The floor mats just push into the holes in the floor. One thing I did need to do was to remove a little of the fibre from the holes, as it was stopping the mat pins pushing fully home. A scalpel was used to clear the holes and the mats pushed firmly in, clicking as they locked into position. Remember those seats? Those are now fitted to the interior. Note the 'R' and 'L' on the underside and fit them in the appropriate place as shown on the instructions. Two screws hold each in position. The fire extinguisher is now assembled. The handle is pushed into the lower half as shown here, and then the upper half locks everything into position. A sticker is then carefully applied and the finished extinguisher plugged into place between both seats. Looking very, very cool! STAGE 40: REAR SEAT SUPPORT From here, the interior starts to take on a real life and shape of its own. There's only one part in this pack, and this is screwed into position with four screws. You also have to make sure that the tab in the tunnel area is clicked firmly into position as it was with an earlier interior stage. STAGE 41: INTERIOR REAR PLATFORM Another pack with just a single part, and this extends the interior even further back. Just three screws hold this in position. STAGE 42: LEFT REAR INTERIOR PANEL, Interior panel, Decorative Accessory and Rear Seat Release Lever I'm actually very pleased that the side panels are now being fitted as it gives some rigidity to the interior. A 'decorative accessory ๐Ÿคฃ' and rear seat release lever are screwed into position on the left interior panel. The panel is now screwed into position on the left hand side of the interior. Note that there is a pin locating position on the underside too, which keeps that connection rigid. STAGE 43: LEFT REAR UPPER INTERIOR PANEL AND VENTILATION GRILLE More work on the left hand side now with the upper left interior panel. The ventilation grille is pushed into position and then screwed from the rear. I needed to remove a little plastic flash from the edges of this, which neatened the whole part up. This panel is now fitted above the previous one with just two screws. This will be made far more rigid very shortly. STAGE 44: INTERIOR TRUNK PARTITION PANEL This single part is pretty obvious. It's the interior truck partition panel, and is held to the interior by three screws on the underside. It also secures to the upper left panel with a plug pin fit. I found it easier to push those in first and THEN fit the screws. STAGE 45: REAR SEAT FOLDING PANEL AND HINGE We now see some very tiny screws here, almost like those in a jeweller's box. First, the hinge is located as shown, and then three of those tiny screws are used to secure it to the rear seat folding panel....... STAGE 46: REAR SEAT BACKREST PANEL .....then we are onto the next pack of parts! Take the rear seat back, and rear seat back panel, and carefully push them together. Now screw the other edge of the single to the assembly. And, er......that's it for another month! Got to say I'm loving this build!!
  3. Pack 5 landed on the doormat late last week, so spent some time on this one. Please excuse some of the interior photos as the velvety interior is quite hard to photo on a white background without highlighting dust etc. The finish itself looks excellent, so I hope I've done it some justice here. STAGE 31: STABILIZER BAR AND LOWER SUSPENSION ARMS This pack is very simple and just adds the stabiliser bar and suspension arms in a single piece. This needs to be able to pivot and flex to is can take the natural suspension of what will be a very heavy model when completed. The stabiliser bar is first screwed into the forward chassis, and then pins used to locate the suspension arms. The pin is serrated and grips the metal of the chassis. I fitted the stabiliser bar first, unlike the instructions said, as this seemed the most natural thing to do. Be careful with the pliers so you don't damage any of the metal paintwork. STAGE 32: UPPER SUSPENSION ARMS More pins to use here as the suspension arms and supports are assembled. I also found the screws a little tight in the metal, so I first put these into the chassis as far as I could get them, then removed them before using them to fit the suspension arms. STAGE 33: FRONT INTERIOR FLOOR AND GEAR LEVER And now for something completely different! Some interior! The interior parts of this model have a black velvet-style finish to them, and you'll need to be careful that you don't mark this as you build. I found a piece of de-tacked masking tape was perfect was removing lint and hairs/dust etc. This pack is simple.....we just screw the gearstick to the interior floor by inserting a screw from underneath. Et voila! STAGE 34: FRONT SIDE WALLS, PEDALS AND SWITCHES We now see the first of the electronic parts in the form of two microswitches for the accelerator and brake pedals. First though, we fit the front side walls, being careful not to damage that velvet interior finish on them. The switches are now located to the switch holder, observing the correct position for each 01, 02. The switch holder is then clicked to the rear of the interior and screwed into place. The pedals are now fitted. I had to make sure the pedal plungers went through the holes in the interior and could make contact with the switches. One of these was a little sticky, so repeated operation freed it up so it worked perfectly. STAGE 35: DASHBOARD AND FUSE COVER Another dead simple one. The dashboard and fuse cover are now put together. a single screw from the reverse of the dashboard is driven fully home. STAGE 36: DASHBOARD TRIM, DIALS AND SHELBY BADGE We can now pretty-up the dashboard area. The first thing to do is apply the self-adhesive stickers for the dials. These are clearly identified for location. these are then peeled from the sheet and applied with some tweezers so I get the correct orientation. The glass dial covers are then clicked into position on the rear of the dashboard trim. The cloth that came with the kit is then used to remove any fingerprints before the trim is sat in position. The dashboard strip with its satin finish is now sat over the chrome trim and screwed into position from behind, locking the metallic parts in place. The Shelby badge now has its sticker applied and is screwed to the dash from behind. STAGE 37: CENTRAL DIALS, CAR RADIO AND GLOVE COMPARTMENT Great to see more interior parts so we can work on the dash. I have to say it's looking pretty darn nice. First up, it's the radio that we need to fit....from the days when you did have to actually tune them in! The central dials are now assembled. Firstly, the stickers are added as before, and the dial glass located. I needed to trim a little clear plastic to make this sit flush, and then the frames could be added. The unit was then screwed into position under the radio. Two parts are supplied for the glove box. The interior is screwed into position and then the door is clicked into place from the front. This will open/close. Very excited to see the dash unit could now be fitted to the interior. Two screws holds these large units permanently in position. STAGE 38: REAR FLOOR AND FRONT SEAT BELTS More care is needed here as we have another velvet finish part in the shape of the rear floor. Before we do anything else, the seatbelt anchors are clicked into place in the slots on the floor section. These are quite a tight fit and I needed to remove fingerprints with some de-tacked masking tape on the black surface, when done. The rear floor is now screwed to the interior section and a central pin used to lock the 'tunnel' together. The seatbelts are slotted into position as shown, making sure that the Cobra badge is facing upwards on the clasp. Flip the model over and located the belt to the pips as shown. I needed to use. small spot of CA to make these stay in position. AND.....we now have this! Looking forward to Pack 6!
  4. Pack 2 hit the doorstep on Friday.....before the postman scurried off in case he caught the Black Death from me, so I thought I'd make an immediate start on and supplement the skeletal parts I'd built from the previous pack. PACK 2 Another sizeable box too with plenty of parts to play with. Let's crack on! Stage 11: Assembling neck and jaw joints Well, we've started the head, so we may as well get some neck done. This pack contains half of the neck, the neck joint and some bushes/screws. The first thing to do is to connect the two halves of the neck knuckle joint. Three screws does this job nicely. I used a thin screwdriver because of diameter of holes. The black plastic head motor joint that was made in Stage 7 can now be fitted to the lower jaw. This is just squeezed in a little and aligned with the pin holes in the lower jaw. Once fitted, the jaw is then connected to the lower head section and the two bushes inserted into the connecting holes, followed by two fixing screws. The jaw will move and shouldn't be too tight. Stage 12: Assembling the right forearm This simple pack builds up into the lower arm... First thing I needed to do was to use superglue to connect the muscle springs to one of the main forearm parts. I used CA gel for this as it gives a few seconds to get it exactly right. The springs and the connector are then screwed to the main forearm 'bone', and the cap attached. Stage 13: Assembling the neck and right finger component Pretty obvious that this pack's main focus is the neck, and now we can complete it. The knuckle I previously made is screwed to the neck half that was supplied with that pack, and the lower head/jaw assembly sat into position. The opposite neck half is now laid over this and the final screws attached for the knuckle and head. To hide those screws, small plates are pushed into position over them, making the joint invisible. I also assembled the half a finger supplies, exactly as I did in Pack 1. This will be shown next. Stage 14: Adding to the right lower arm, and assembling fourth right finger Three piston tubes are supplied here. these are slowed into the end of the cap and the piston tubes attached (shorter one in middle). A screw then holds everything together, whilst allowing the piston tubes to move freely. The previous finger is now completed and fitted to the hand, as shown. In my case, all finger joints seem to be nice and tight, and again, I fit the plastic sleeve BEFORE adding the pin, as it stops the sleeve bunching up and not inserting fully. Stage 15: Assembling part of the left head and the fifth finger of right hand A whole new finger is supplied here and this is first built and fitted to the hand. All fingers are now present and correct! I resisted the temptation to form it into a well-known gesture! ๐Ÿคฃ The head side panel is also built as per the previous one. Stage 16: Begin the assembly of the first lower arm The lower arm now really starts to take form. The black plastic rotator ring that controls articulation, is push fitted to the arm joint built in Stage 7. This is then aligned with the large cuff in this pack, and the lower arm unit with piston tubs, slotted into position and screwed together. The piston plungers now have their rubber sealing cups added, and these are inserted into the lower arm piston tubes. Stage 17: Fitting sides of the head to the top of the head Both completed head side panels are now screwed to the top skull piece from inside, and the unit put to one side until later. The three ball joints are now screwed to the underside of the palm. Stage 18: Assembling the eye motor support Back to the head again now as the plastic bar from Stage 1 is now sat onto the pins on both eyes, locking them into position. To secure this bar in place, a plastic block is screwed into position above it. The eyes will now move freely, and together. The eye motor is now secured in position. Everything was assembled as supplied as it all seemed to be aligned. The upper face/eye unit is now screwed to the lower head. These screws are neatly hidden in the underside palette. Starting to look a little eery now. ๐Ÿ˜Ž Stage 19: Assembling the head motor Of course, the head needs another motor to operate the jaw, and first the two-part gearbox is assembled, and the motor secured to the motor housing. The gearbox is now fitted to the motor housing. Stage 20: Assembling and mounting the head motor support After the motor support is securely fixed in place, the motor is fitted to it and the 'U'-shaped casing added. This holds the motor to the mounting. Make sure that you don't nip/damage any cables at this juncture, as there's a few wires waving about. (and no....I didn't damage any myself! ๐Ÿคฃ) The head is temporarily made to look a little angular as the two brackets are then screwed into position. That's it until the next pack. What a great build!
  5. I'll stick my flag in the ground here and create the first member build diary for the 1:2 Terminator T-800! Whilst I've never really been a Sci-Fi fan, some stuff does grab me.....such as Blake's 7, Space 1999, Terminator, Star Wars etc., so pretty much a lot of the classic Sci-Fi. Agora's new T-800 hits the sweet spot for me, and in a massive half-scale too! This has been previously released by Hachette in other sales territories, and this release incorporates the fix to the original floppy fingers problem that plagued the original release. The first pack is a sizeable box too, so time to dive in and start some building! This will be entirely out-of-box, with no mods etc, although there are some out there if you do a little searching. PACK 1 Stage 1: Components for head and eyes Just to tempt us straight away, it's common for these models to supply something very recognisable. In this case, it's the upper face in all it's metal, metallic glory. The first step is to push the eye pupils/lenses into the chromed eye orbits. These are a nice, snug fit. Next, taking extreme care with the wires, the LEDs are now pushed fully into the orbits. These completed eyes can now be installed to the inner face plate. Orientation of these is very important as they will later be connected to a motor so the eyes will move from side to side. The outer pegs on these must go upwards when fitted. Once in position, the eyes are then held captive by a brace which is screwed into position. Creepy! Stage 2: Components for the head and right arm Hot on the heels of the upper face, I now build the upper jaw. The face panel I just built is secured to the upper jaw as shown here. The two parts only fit together in one way. Injection moulded plastic parts are supplied for the upper teeth, and these are installed as 5 separate parts, secured in place by a spot of CA gel as this gives more time to work with the parts and get them in absolutely the right position. Some heavy metal work now as the upper arm begins construction. These parts form the swivel attachment at the shoulder, and align when these indents are together. Two screws hold everything securely. Stage 3: Components for the right arm and right arm The arm components in here form a piston which operates as the tricep. This is the main body of the piston, but as yet without the plunger. A screw holds all three components securely. You now need to fit 3x AAA batteries to the box. Once you've done that, plug it into the small LED testing board, and then plug each eye into that board, in turn. Each should light very brightly. Spreading the workload around a little, the first finger is now built, using the updated parts which stop the fingers from being floppy. In a change to the instructions, I find it easier to insert the sleeve between the joints, and then the pin. This was, the sleeve doesn't bunch up underneath the joint, and good the full depth. The small cap is then plugged into the pin, to finish it off. Stage 4: New components for the upper right arm We get a good stab at the upper arm with this stage, and start to see some things come together. First, the bicep piston is built, and the plunger, complete with rubber seal, is inserted. The plunger is also built and inserted for the tricep piston we built earlier. The articulated should joint is now built. First, the previous part is now fitted with plastic grips. Both tricep and bicep pistons are now fitted to the main bone of the arm, and the shoulder socket pushed into place. When everything is in situ, the large metal arm part from Stage 2, is then used to lock everything together via the piston screws. Stage 5: Components for the lower jaw and neck Back to the head now, with this lower head plate and neck socket. The neck socket is first screwed together and sat into the hole in the lower head, once the black plastic ring is first seated. A small cap now protects the top of the socket and a bracket screws into position to lock everything. Stage 6: Teeth of lower jaw, and the bridge of nose As with the upper jaw, the lower jaw now receives some detail treatment. All parts plug snugly into the jaw and are fixes with a spot of CA gel. The nose bridge is also fitted after a little CA gel is put into the two locating holes in the face. Stage 7: Components for upper arm and head motor A little more attention is now paid to the should area of the T-800, with this ratchet joint. The ratchet place is first glued into the shoulder part, and the unit GLUED into the previous assembly, using more CA gel. More upper arm parts screwed together . Once done, this is put to one side until we get another pack. One last thing we need to do on this stage is to put the two plastic parts together that relate to the head motor. Stage 8: Components for right thumb and right palm Time to get handy again as we look at the right palm and some finger parts. The next finger fits together exactly as the previous, plus both are now finally fitted to the palm. Stage 9: Components for right-hand side of head This pack contains just two parts and a pack os screws. The right hand side of the head has its mechanical plate fitted and secured with two screws. That's it for this! Stage 10: Inner eye sockets and right middle finger Back to the head again. The eye sockets are now fitted within the upper metal face panel. I didn't find these needed any glue, and the instructions only say use it if needed anyway. Oh, and another finger is built and fitted! That's it until I receive Pack 2 ๐Ÿคช
  6. Haha! I don't go into as much detail about which screws etc. unless there's a reason to, otherwise I'd just duplicate the instructions you get to build it! I do spend some time on photos though. The packets are hard to photograph against a white background, but the rest looks ok. I process images though Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop. Agora Pro? I don't even know what that is! ๐Ÿคฃ
  7. Pack 4 dropped onto the doormat this week, as the postman legged it quickly in case I gave him coronavirus ๐Ÿ˜† Well, I had to make a start, so here we are! Stage 23: Middle Chassis A very simple, single piece packet with some screws, but this really starts to make that chassis grow! This simply bolts to the rear chassis that we just saw in my last post. Stage 24: Front Floor Pan Again, another simple, one-part pack, and this one fills in that gaping hole in the middle chassis and extends the channel for the driveshaft. What I like about these parts is how precisely they fit...no faffing or manipulation. Just how it should be. Stage 25: Driveshaft We can now build that driveshaft and install it. I suppose this is where you'll find if you got the differential cover the right way around ๐Ÿ˜†. Take the two halves and pop them together. They'll only fit one was as the ends aren't symmetrical. The small MP02 screws are what are used to secure them. Once tightened up (not over-tight!), flip the chassis upside down and slot the tabbed end into the differential, with the two protruding lugs pointing towards the chassis, and then turn the assembly around. Using the other screws, secure the driveshaft securely in place. Stage 26: Gearbox and Crossmember Silly me forgot to add the crossmember into the components photo, but you still see me install it. Take the blue gearbox unit and position it as shown. It will only fit one way, so there's no chance of getting it wrong. Flip the chassis over again and secure into position with two screws. Now add the crossmember and again, secure with two screws. Stage 27: Front Chassis Another single-part stage, but this now extends the chassis into the full length of the GT500, and it's certainly an impressive beast! This is chunky and heavy metal part too. All that needs to be done is to locate it to the chassis section you already built and then bolt into position as shown. Stage 28: Front Fender Splash Guards Only two pieces here, and they do exactly what they say on the tin! I found that adding the screws first and then removing them was the best strategy as you can't get a lot of leverage on that screwdriver with the guards right up against it. Be careful handling the chassis now these are fitted as they could be a little fragile. Stage 29: Steering Rods We can now temporarily put the chassis down as the steering rods are assembled. Quite simply, these three components are bolted together using the MD06 screws. This should not be overtightened as it's a functioning part. I found the screws a little hard to drive in so needed a slightly larger screwdriver with a little more torque. Stage 30: Steering and Suspension Components. Whilst the steering rods were in hand, I took the Pitman Arm and bolted this to the assembly I just built. Again, I needed a larger screwdriver to overcome the difficulty I had fitting these together. The suspension arm mounts are then secured to the underside of the chassis via two screws. These are socketed so they won't wobble around. Lastly, the steering gear is also screwed into place. Careful with this as it's plastic and you don't want to strip the threads. That's it until Pack 5!! For to say this is looking very impressive. More next time ๐Ÿ˜˜
  8. Ok, onto Pack 3! Let's change that background to white also, as I need to get a new blue sheet and lockdown prevents this! This is a lovely pack goodies because we now get to work on the lower chassis and put together some large parts that give an impression of just how big this 1:8 beauty will be when complete. Quite a bit of work to do here too, and let's face it, many of us haven't much else to do with our time at the moment! ๐Ÿคฃ Stage 15: Rear Main Chassis Assembly Not much in this packet, but it is pretty significant. Take the rear main chassis part and connect to the fuel tank assembly. As simple as that, but now you can see how this thing is starting to grow, and the fit is superb! Stage 16: Rear Floor Pan Again, only one part here, but I got 2 packs of screws. Only one of them is used, so the other looks like I can just use for any spares I might need (although the instructions also show the pack, but no use for them). Take the Rear Floor Pan part and fit to the rear chassis. Pretty obvious where this goes. It's simply like fitting a square peg to a square hole, metaphorically speaking. Nine screws hold this in place. Stage 17: Lower Rear Axle This pack gives us the differential housing cover and the lower rear axle, plus screws. Take the differential cover and fit two screws into it so they go fully home. This just nests to the outside of the axle. Note the orientation of the differential though. That's pretty crucial. Stage 18: Upper Rear Axle Carrying on from the previous stage, we now get to complete the rear axle using this pack of components. Again, check the orientation of the differential from the previous stage and then fit the upper rear axle. You can clearly see that orientation here. Secure the parts with screws. You can also slip the springs into position too. The upper rear axle assembly can now be fitted to the rear chassis. Noting orientation, sit this so the two rods that the springs are sat on, connect to the lower chassis as thus, and then secure with two screws... Stage 19: Left Rear Wheel Housing Another pack with one part, but oh how beautifully it fits! Take the housing and secure to the left side of the lower chassis with three screws. Stage 20: Left Leaf Spring Now, you need to pay attention here to make sure you get the orientation of these vital parts, correct. You'll struggle to disassemble otherwise. These photos should clearly show you how this fits. Note the shape and position of the details on the leaf sprint itself, and be careful not to bend this part as it's a little pliable. Take the front shackle (very different to the rear shackle) and note which side of the leaf spring it fits to. Now push the pin into position to secure. One side of this is serrated, and when you push it fully in, those serrations will bite into the plastic and lock it. Use pliers for this. Now do the same for the other side... The leaf spring can now be fitted to the lower chassis. Note how those shackles match the underside when they fit. Lastly, the spring plate can be fitted with two screws. Stages 21 and 22: Right Wheel Housing and Right Leaf Spring The last two packs are the same as the previous two except we now fit these for the right hand side of the lower chassis. And here's how it all looks when done! More next time!
  9. It's a two-part plastic affair. Nicely moulded and plated.
  10. Pack 2 arrived last week, so here we go with the next update. There was a certain amount of repetition with this pack as we get to build the right-hand door and also the right seat, but it's all good clean fun, plus we get to see a large chunk of heavy metal that forms the rear chassis. Ok, here we go... Stage 7: Right door assembly As you can see, we are going to build the right-hand side door, giving us a matching pair! Good to get both of these so early in the build. The handle is taken and pushed into the soles on the metal door panel. This only fits one way, so no problems here. A single screw secures the handle from within the door panel. Stage 8: Right window assembly Be careful with the main clear part as there's no protective film on it. Keep it nice and clean with the supplied cloth too. Locating the window to the door panel is a cinch. You really can't get this wrong. With it in place, secure with three of the prescribed screws. Careful not to mark that window! Now take the hinge and sit in the door slot in this orientation. Note the chamfer on the underside. Now take the bracket and push into position over the two pins on the metal door panel. Please note again the chamfer on this part too, A single screw locks everything nicely into place. Et voila! Stage 9: Right door trim Our packet... Take the lower trim strip and push into position on the lower side of the inside panel. Secure with two of the correct screws. Now take the interior door handle and the door handle bracket and sit together exactly like this. Fit the assembly within the inside of the door panel. You'll need to carefully tuck the handle through the slot in the door. Two screws lock the parts into position. A further screw stops the handle from waggling about. Now the window crank handle is fitted. You'll note a small tab which assists orientation. A small screw also holds this in situ. Now we take the (almost) completed inside door panel and sit in position within the metal door panel itself. Simply alight the screw holes with the holes in the blank trim area of the inside panel. Then finally secure the assemblies together. Now it's the turn of the upper trim strip. You need to be careful getting this into position behind the window crank handle. Some careful manipulation is needed. When in place, push it into the interior panel to lock into place. ...and it looks like this. Stage 10: Passenger's seat backrest. Take the passenger's seat backrest and backrest frame and sit them together. Fasten together with four of the prescribed screws. Now take the soft-feel backrest upholstery and push it into position. The chrome plated tab will protrude through the slot in the upholstery. There, dead simple! Stage 11: Passenger's seat You'll notice these stages are exactly the same as those from Pack 1. Take the passenger's seat base (with the moulded channel) and sit the backrest into it.. ...just like this. Now we can take the seat cushion and sit in place over the base. Flip the seat over and screw tightly into position. The finished seat looks like this, and also tilts forward. Stage 12: Rear chassis One large and heavy bag with a single, metal component. We'll need to crack open another packet to be able to use it... Stage 13: Fuel tank bottom The lower fuel tank pushes into place over the lips on the lower chassis... ...just like this. I think we'll need our last packet to finish this. Stage 14: Fuel tank top and filler hose Take the filler hose and sit within the hole on the fuel tank top. This will only go one way due a tab. Firmly secure in place. Now take the assembly and the lower chassis and fit them together, with the fuel tank filler hose pointing aft. Firmly screw together. C'est complet! Until next time... ๐Ÿ˜
  11. A 1:48 Victory ๐Ÿ˜ฒ I am shortly starting work on Amati's 1:64 prototype for their instruction manual, and it's just short of 1.6m long! Even that is, size-wise, out of the reach of most modellers. In 1:48, it would be a staggering. I imagine the market would be quite limiting for a number of factors.
  12. Er, I don't think I said I was ๐Ÿ˜‰
  13. Great stuff! We can compare notes now! ๐Ÿคฃ
  14. Great to see you here, James! As soon as Pack 2 drops, I'll send you some photos.
  15. A driver needs somewhere to sit, and this is it. The backrest and backrest frame are now pushed together and secured with four screws. Superglue is now dripped into the three holes in the unit. The instructions say to apply this to the pins, but it's safer to do it this way as the glue can't run anywhere and ruin the parts. Push the soft plastic upholstery unit into the holes. The tab helps with alignment. The driver's seat back part now locates to the base. You can easily see how these go together with the channel. The driver's seat upholstery (with pre-fitted trim) now sits in place over this and is screwed together from underneath. The finished unit looks like this and can also be tilted forward. Pack 1 is now at completion and I hope to be able to bring Pack 2 to you fairly soon.
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