James H

I've heard about the shoulders sticking and not being adjustable, although mine are (thankfully) ok. Sure I'd read about someone filing the end of the spring so it won't catch inside, and using some grease to help.

Some would say that's how Royal Mail operate normally, even in the UK 😆

Pack 9 Quite a bit of work in this pack and.....YES!!...we manage to get rid of that pesky front wheel sag on the main chassis, which has driven me mad for a couple of months now. STAGE 65: DRIVER SEAT-BELT HARNESS, HOOKS & FRONT LATERAL CAGE RIGHT BAR The u-shaped roll bar from an earlier pack is now resurrected and the belts are fastened to it. First, the bracket, then the harness hooks. The right lateral cage bar is now pushed into place on the firewall. STAGE 66: OIL VAPOUR CANISTER, PIPES, CAP, & AIR INTAKE PIPE A few more detail bits for the firewall. First, the oil vapour canister is built and plugged into position. Now the air intake pipe is attached. STAGE 67: STEERING SYSTEM SHAFT, CAM GEAR BRACKET & COVER After screwing the cam gear bracket into place, the steering shaft can be threaded into position and secured in place. STAGE 68: STEERING ROD & COLUMN The steering column is first inserted through the rear of the instrument panel and the steering wheel pushed into place. This is quite a tight fit and quick tap with a rubber tipped model hammer drove it full home (no pun intended!) NOW we can get rid of the saggy front wheels! The springs are first slid onto the hub tubes and then the wheels aligned. The steering rod is then pushed into position on the seat and fastened at both sides on top of the springs. No more saggy wheels 🙂 STAGE 69: TRUNK, EMBLEM & LICENSE PLATE LIGHT The emblem is screwed into place and the latch and license plate light are pushed into position. STAGE 70: TRUNK HINGES, BRACKET, & REAR LICENSE PLATE Now the trunk hinges are fitted. Followed by the license plate, screwed into place from behind. STAGE 71: LEFT DOOR, TRIM & RIVETS The left door trim is screwed into the interior of the left door. The door top rivets are then shipped from their sprue and pushed into place as shown. STAGE 72: LEFT DOOR HINGE AND LOCK A little fiddly this one, but goes together nicely. The spring is slid onto the lock handle and then the assembly is screwed into the mechanism. Don't tighten too much or the lock won't move. The door hinge is now screwed into place. And the lock mechanism and hinge cover are pushed into place. STAGE 73: RIGHT DOOR, TRIM & RIVETS This one simply builds up the right door as per the left. Until pack 10, see you soon!

Pack 8 This pack came together quite quickly, and didn't need the chassis at this time, so all work was a lot smaller and concentrated on the fuel tank and electronics, plus some cockpit elements. STAGE 57: FUEL TANK STAGE 58: REAR TRUNK This is the main part of the fuel tank that we started earlier, and bolted the electronics into . Now we can complete the tank and route the cables appropriately. I just hope the boards all work well as there's no test for it before encasing inside the car. Specific cables pass through specific openings, and the whole assembly screw tightly shut. STAGE 58: REAR TRUNK The boot, as we call it in the UK, is now tackled. The rear panel first screws to the main section. The completed fuel tank now bolts to the underside. Be careful no wires are trapped anywhere here. STAGE 59: FUEL PUMPS, PIPES, TRUNK HINGE & LOCK Trunk detail is now added with the two fuel pumps and their plumbing. This all fits superbly with too awkwardness, and exactly as shown. The pics in the instructions are quite small so it took a moment to fathom which pump was which. The true support is now fitted, albeit it drops off quite easily but think that will be sorted in a later issue. STAGE 60: REAR FENDER PART & CABLE HOLDER The rear fender is another large part and this now bolts to the tank and truck assembly after first threading the specific cables through the correct fender opening. A cable clip is now used to channel all wiring into the same locale. STAGE 61: FIREWALL A nice looking part, but literally nothing to do until.... STAGE 62: SPEAKER AND SPEAKER HOLDER Now the firewall can be populated with components, but first, the speaker is installed. STAGE 63: CABLE HARNESS AND ELECTRICAL DEVICES 'Electrical devices' is a generic term for everything that bolts to the firewall. Note also a nicely moulded wiring harness. The harness is first plugged into the various holes, and then the electrical devices into position as shown, trapping the harness in places. STAGE 64: MORE ELECTRICAL DEVICES More 'electrical devices' to complete the firewall. more soon!

It sure does. Pretty sure there is something to be added to secure things. Someone else also mentioned this.

I really would be surprised if superglue held the axle properly, or even epoxy. There's a lot of weight in the finished build. Mine broke at the same point and I had to replace the axle part by partially stripping the model down.

@Collector_felix It sounds like some gears aren't properly meshed and are jumping.

Those are VERY impressive! 😲 I wish I had your skills.

Onwards with Pack 7! It really doesn't seem to have taken long to get to this stage. Quite a simple pack this month that concentrates on the interior, so we can 't yet cure the wobbly front wheels on the main chassis. 😜 I've put some stages of this pack in the same sequence as at least 3 stages contain zero work. STAGE 49 & 50: BUCKET SEAT/PASSENGER SEAT COVER, SEAT BELTS AND SEAT-BELT HARNESS First up, the double-sided 3M tape is cut to size and stuck in position on the plastic seat, like this. I ignored the instruction to cut to 4 lengths the same size as you really need to cut them to the actual size needed. The front tape lengths are then trimmed to shape. After peeing off the outer tape paper, the seat cover is slid over the plastic seat and then the sides pulled in so the tape fixes them in position. This is a little awkward, but works quite well. With the seat cover in place, the seat cushion from a previous pack is then screwed to this, holding everything in place. The lap belts are now pushed onto the lugs on the seat underside. These hold the parts real well, and I found no need to add any glue. STAGE 51: BATTERIES, BATTERY CABLES & CUT-OFF SWITCH Both batteries are plugged onto the mounting unit. These can only fit one way. Two screws hold them in position. The battery unit is then screwed into position from the underside using 4 screws. Both battery cables are then connected to the power shut off device, and this is then secured to the interior. Both batteries are then 'wired up' like this. One cable will flap around, but that seems to be normal and it will be hidden behind a seat. Note I removed the gear stick too. That's to stop me damaging it. I'll replace it later in the build. The battery holder is now pushed into place. No screws required. STAGE 52, 53, and 54: DRIVER BUCKET SEAT, DRIVER SEAT BOTTOM, DRIVER SEAT COVER, SEAT BELT AND SEAT-BELT HARNESS For the sake of repetition, the next seat is built up in the same way as the previous. The two seat belt hooks are now pushed into position, and the belts fastened to them. Both seats are now secured to the interior via screws from the underside. STAGE 55: TRUNK BOARD AND TANK FILLER PIPE This one is dead simple. The tank filler pipe is secured to the truck board with a single screw. STAGE 56: CIRCUIT BOARD AND ELECTRICAL CABLES There's no actual electronics work involved with this, or testing. Each lead needs to be plugged into the socket on the circuit board that has the same number, When complete, the circuittboard is fastened to the trunk board. That's all for the moment.

Well, we are now onto Pack 10. At this stage, the model is extremely heavy and not so easy to manoeuvre for photographing! I'm also more wary of just lifting this thing by the chest cage and now grip by the pelvis too so I don't put any unnecessary strain on the model. Everything seen in this pack is just a reproduction of building the previous lower leg and foot, so these pics just show the key assemblies. STAGE 91: ASSEMBLE A MUSCLE FOR THE LEFT THIGH Muscle piston! All glued parts use CA gel. If there was a lot of chrome plate, I first rubbed each joint with some fine abrasive paper to provide a better key for the glue. STAGE 92: KNEE, MUSCLE, AND FOOT: MAKE PROGRESS ON THE LEFT LEG These are the three assemblies built for this stage; knuckle joints for the foot connection, muscle piston, and a knee joint with a ratchet wheel glued into position. It really isn't easy flipping the T-800 over, but it needed doing! The thigh muscles are now screwed into position. STAGE 93: BUILD OUT THE FOOT, AND CONSTRUCT ANOTHER MUSCLE A nice, simple one. Another muscle piston, and screwing the foot section to the previously build foot assembly. STAGE 94: AFFIX THE LEFT THIGH MUSCLE WITH NEWLY-CONSTRUCTED TENDONS The other muscle piston is now fitted to the thigh, then connected to the other muscle and screwed through the thigh frame. The ankle ball joint is now fitted to the foot underside. STAGE 95: ASSEMBLE AND AFFIX A KNEE JOINT If only a knee replacement was so simple! The knee joint is fitted with the ratchet discs and muscle piston. This is then dropped into position and the knee end caps pushed into position and tightened with a hex screw. This can be adjusted to pose the T-800 when complete. ...and a little more work on the foot with the piston connectors and ankle joint. STAGE 96: ADD THE LEFT KNEE CAP AND ASSEMBLE A TOE The two kneecap parts are glued together and then the part glued to the leg. And the construction of the toes also begins. STAGE 97: BUILD PART OF THE LOWER LEG, AND A SECOND TOE The lower led is now started, and another toe built. STAGE 98: CONSTRUCT THE THIRD TOE, AND EXPAND THE LOWER LEG ASSEMBLY More work on the lower leg with the attachment of muscle pistons, and another toe is born. STAGE 99: BUILD A FOURTH FOOT PART AND ASSEMBLE THE LOWER LEFT LEG The outer shin is now attached to the lower led....and another toe in the series is built. STAGE 100: ASSEMBLE THE LEFT FOOT AND ATTACH THE LOWER LEFT LEG After building the last toe, then can all be fitted to the foot. It's vital to check the toe orientation and position from the instructions or it'll just look weird. I know as I did it upside down the first time. First, the lower toe joints are secured to the lowest point on the front of the foot, then the upper rods fasten to the connection above this. The lower let is now fastened to the T-800 with a single screw. As there is a ratchet disc on this, it can also be posed at the end. Until Pack 11....that's it. 😃

I do admit, they are annoying me 😆

Cheers! I'm currently still building the Cobra and T-800, but will be starting Bismarck before too long also. That should keep me busy 😆 I may also add additional paint and weathering to that too.

Pack 12 This is it folks....the final work on this behemoth, and the finished result is VERY heavy and impressive. I've had a snag along the way that delayed me posting this. When you manoeuvre your car around, DO NOT put the weight of the model on any of the back wheels. I did that and snapped the wheel fixing point of the rear axle. You live and learn, and it was so frustrating. STAGE 91: WINDSHIELD & STAGE 92: WINDSHIELD FRAME AND WIPERS Real care needs to be taken not to touch the main clear area of the windscreen, for obvious reasons. Thankfully, this just sits neatly in place with zero effort, and the windshield frame locks it into position with a few clicks. STAGE 93: UPPER VENT GRILLE STAGE 94: REAR WINDOW The windshield wipers from the previous stage are now screwed into position on the upper vent grille, and the panel slid into place on the body, then screwed into position. STAGE 94: REAR WINDOW & STAGE 95: REAR WINDOW FRAME & RADIO ANTENNA You know the drill! Both rear window and frame fit nicely into position with ease. STAGE 96: DOOR TRIM AND SILL PLATES Those sparse door entry points need prettying up, so these trims and sills are now added. These just push into place with zero fuss on both driver and passenger side. STAGE 97: HEADLINER Even though you get the liner, you can't fit it yet. Instead, both doors are fitted. Make sure these are nice and tight. They should also face a little resistance when pushed fully closed, giving them a positive close-fit. STAGE 98: SUN VISORS & REAR VIEW MIRROR The liner is now fitted with the sun shields and rear view mirror. The liner itself now just pushes into place with no problems. The aerial is perhaps the only real puzzling part for me. This should've ideally been a push fit for the last item added, but instead it needs to be screwed into the underside of the body before you can fit it, providing a hazard from this point on as you work on the model. Take care with that aerial! STAGE 99: REAR VALANCE, FOG LIGHTS & CONNECTING THE BODY TO THE CHASSIS & STAGE 100: REAR BUMPER, FRONT & REAR LICENSE PLATES The rear valance is now fitted with fog lights. I also fit the reg plate from stage 100 too. Before the body can be fitted to the chassis, all the wiring is finally connected and batteries inserted into the engine compartment to check that all is ok. Fitting the body took me quite a bit of time in making sure all lugs and holes were in alignment, and also that all cables were safe from being trapped. That aerial is also most at risk here when you turn the car over. You might notice no rear wheels in this picture. That's because I broke the rear axle as mentioned at the start, and I decided it safest to fit the wheels last, prior to turning the car the right way round. The valence is now fitted and the number added. I also screw the front reg plate into position. All done!!!!!!!! Conclusion A lovely project that will doubtless be much loved by any petrol head or Shelby fan. The details are superb and the size of this means it's no shrinking violet. You'll need a nice care to display it, and also a strong shelf! All electronics worked as they should, from the engine sounds, to horn, rear lights and front lights. A year's worth of work is finally at an end and my bench will certainly look different with this now gone from it.

Cheers, I'll fix that tomorrow.

Pack 6 Hot on the heels of the last pack come this next one which looks at building up some of the driver's office. STAGE 41: DASHBORD SWITCHES AND STEERING ROD GUIDE Definitely one for those detail freaks 😁 First, dashboard plates 1 & 2 are pushed into place. I actually used a little CA on #2 as it was a little sloppy. Plate #3 is then pushed into place and secured by a screw from behind. Just look at the detail on that 🤗 Now, the steering rod guide is screwed into position from the rear, A number of injection moulded switches and knobs are added, some of them printed with details. These look excellent. one of these is quite clearly for a switch as it's left free-floating. STAGE 42: DASHBOARD DIALS AND SWITCH More dashboard goodness now as the dial stickers are affixed to the holding plate. The clear lenses board is now pushed into position on the rear of the chrome surround. Then the dial faces holder is sat on top of this, behind the lenses board. Remember the free-floating switch? This is what it operates. A microswitch is pushed into position in the dial holding plate, and this fitted to the dials assembly I just made, before being fitted to the rear of the instrument panel using three screws. STAGE 43: CENTER CONSOLE AND LEFT FLOOR SECTION Some internal work I always find these a little hard to photograph as they are so black and have a velvet texture to them which can be easily marked with just touching. I find a piece of de-tacked tape is useful for removing any skin flakes or stray fibres/hairs from the surface. The two main sections are screwed together as shown and a cable clip fitted into position on the underside. STAGE 44: RIGHT FLOOR SECTION AND FLOOR MATS More delicate interior work now that I try so hard not to touch with my fingers! The passenger and driver floor mat just push neatly into position. STAGE 45: COCKPIT REAR WALL Same for the cockpit rear wall that is now carefully offered up to the cockpit interior and secured with four more screws. STAGE 46: GEAR LEVER, HANDBRAKE AND U-BAR This simple pack adds the hand brake and gear levers, plus the console u-bar. The hand brake just pushes into the side of the interior while the remainder screw into place from underneath. STAGE 47: ACCELERATOR PEDAL & SWITCH, BRAKE PEDAL & SWITCH, CLUTCH PEDAL, FLOOR PLATE The pedal floor plate just pushes into position on top of the driver's floor mat, and then the accelerator, brake and clutch pedals are fitted as seen with screws from the reverse. Microswitch assemblies are now fitted for two of the pedals. A switch is just pushed into a holder and the holder screwed to the cockpit reverse. A quick test of the switches with the pedals shows a positive action. No problems there! Cable management clips are now used to route the cables along the underside. STAGE 48: MOUNTING BOX AND MAIN SWITCH Another switch! This time a toggle for the car's on/off circuit. This pushes into place as seen here and a clip/screw used to secure it. The switch took a little effort to seat evenly. The mounting box is now fitted with pipes and the united screwed into position on the underside of the car. A little lid is also supplied. No surprise that this is where the batteries for the electronics will eventually fit. Last up is another cable management clip that helps to hold down the cable that I originally taped down for safety. That's it for another month!