Mark A

Pack 6, stage 45, The Rear Left Brake Disc The bulk of this stage is a repeat of stage 44, however there are some new bits at the end, left over from stage 41 and I'll cover those steps here; After the upper tie rods have been attached in step 3, step 4 has us add Side reinforcements. These are comprised of 2 parts, with 2 A type screws securing them to the rear frame. Start with the large piece, and screw it to the frame. Then add the small bracket, starting with the tab that clips into the frame, Then position the lower end so that the pin engages the hole in the first frame part, and gently press it home. After the left side is done, complete the right side in the same manner adding the small container as the last step. Stage complete.

Pack 6, stages 44, The Rear Right Brake disc This is a super quick stage. Start by inserting the drive shaft into the transmission, with the large end being the transmission end. Next, install the disc and caliper assembly, with the caliper facing forwards, attaching it to the lower control arm with 2 type V screws. Lastly, attach the two tie rods, securing them to the caliper with one type C screw, (Lower tie rod) and one type U screw. (Upper tie rod)

Pack 6, stage 43, The Rear Suspension (2) We start with the two rear shock absorbers. You'll need 2 type N screws for this step. Start by placing the spring over the strut, then the top mounting plug. You'll need to compress the spring to get the screw into it's place, and maintain compression while you are tightening the screw down. Do both shocks at this step. Next, locate both the long tie rods, one for each side. position them in place, and secure with a type C screw. The tie rod is next, and is secured with a type T screw. In step 3, we mount the two large hinge pivots left over from stage 42. You'll want the raised, threaded part to be facing each other when installed on the frame. Once these are mounted, start with the right lower control arm, and position it in the two hinge pivots. Then, screw a type S screw, one from each side. Now, repeat this for the left side, and the stage will be finished.

Pack 6, stage 42 The Rear Suspension (1) There is a fair bit going in this stage! We are assembling the first part of the rear suspension, and it's looking good! Start by locating the 4 SMALL hinge brackets and the two sets of tie rods. You'll also need 2 type M screws, as well as one O screw. Screw the hinge bracket in place with an M screw, then place the lower tie rod into position, and secure it FROM THE FRONT with the type O screw. This requires a long shaft screwdriver. Now, repeat the steps with the front tie rod, using another small hinge bracket. Repeat steps one and two for the other side now. Stage complete

Pack 6, stage 41, The Rear Mudguards The initial assembly sequence here is a bit of a mind bender. The three components sort of mesh together, but finding the right orientation proved to be a bit of a challenge. I started by assembling the framework, then matched which panel went where. You'll need two type K screws for this series of steps. Next, the "inner side panels" get placed into position, and then the appropriate frame with panel is secured into position with 2 H screws, and 1 D type screw. Repeat the steps to obtain the result on the other side. stage finished.

Hi Eagle, The decals for Bruce's GT500 were made by a local IPMS club member. HTH, Mark

Hi Malcolm, Yes, you will get notifications in the "My Account" tab on your customer portal. HTH, Mark

My first attempt at a reply went astray. Use the below form to get in touch with Customer services. It's a manufacturing error. It looks like someone didn't cut the sprues off of the main part. https://support.agoramodels.com/hc/en-gb/requests/new best, Mark

Part 1, Assembling the leg Optimus gets some pants! This pack deals with the outer coverings for the left leg. As usual, the quality is superb, with the bulk of the cladding being diecast. Start with TR-8-01, TR-8-22 and TR-8-34. I needed to flatten out the screen a bit. I did this by rolling the CONVEX surface under an Xacto knife handle. Use a light touch here, as you don’t want it to curve the other way! I used a bit of gel CA on each of the mounting pegs to hold the backing plate (TR-8-22) in place. Next, add TR-8-03 to the assembly, and secure with PWM2x6 screws, (Steps 2-3) Next, add TR-8-32 to the assembly, using 2 PWB2.6 x 8 screws. This is referred to as assembly “A” from here out. Part 2 You’ll need TR-8-10,11,12, and 13 for the next assembly as well as 4 PB 2.6x8 screws. The end caps are handed, and slide into the main part quite easily. Next install TR-8-13 with the screws. (steps 1-2) This yields assembly B. Part 3 Next, using assemblies A and B, screw B onto A, using PWB2.6x8 screws. Now, take TR-8-5 and mount it onto Assembly A as well. You’ll use PWM2x6 screws for this stage. Now, using 2 M3x8 bolts as well as 2 serrated washers, thread the bolts into Assembly A, followed with a PB206x8 screw from the front side. This yields assembly “C.” Part 4 Part 4, step 1 is the same as part 1, so flatten out the mesh, and secure it all in place with the CA glue of your choice. Step two follows in the same footsteps as the first, with an internal piece (TR-8-04) being installed onto TR-8-2, using PWM2x6 screws. (Steps 2-3) Step 4 has an added part, a rubber bushing that is placed into its receptacle before TR-8-08 is screwed into place. As before, you’ll use both screws and bolts to secure the metal skin into place. (Steps 5-7) This is now assembly “D.” Part 5 For this, you’ll need the lower left leg from pack 7. Taking assembly C, position it over the pegs on the leg, an secure it with 4 PB 2.3x8 screws. (steps 1-2) Steps 3-4 use 4 M3x10 bolts as well as 4 of the serrated washers. ( TR-8-38) To complete part 5, add TR-8-16 to the front of the left leg, and secure with 4 PWB screws. (Step 5) Part 6 Using TR-8-08 and TR-8-24, assemble the two using PWM 2x6 screws. Next assemble the two pieces you just completed. You’ll need 4 M3x8 bolts, as well as the 4 split washers, TR-8-37. You’ll need the hex wrench for these, so hopefully you still have it. I didn’t….. (steps 1-4) This creates assembly “G.” Part 7 Take assembly G, and install it onto the front of the lower left leg, using 2 PB2.6x8 screws. In step 3, you’ll need 4x PWB2.6x8 screws. These are driven in from the sides. I needed to flex assembly G a bit to get the screw holes to like up as they were about 1mm out of alignment. It’s not a problem to get them lined up though, and your mileage may vary. (steps 1-3) Steps 4 and 5 are installing trim pieces that cover up the screw holes. These are press fit in, so no adhesive is needed. For steps 6-8, you’ll need the 2 magnets, and parts TR-8-13 and 8-14. To make sure you have the magnets facing the right direction, place a magnet on the tip of your screwdriver. This shows the side of the magnet that needs to face out. Dab a bit of CA glue into the hole for the magnet, and place the magnet into the hole, then simply pull the screwdriver away. This keeps the magnet in the proper orientation to “grab” the screw in the next step. Simply place the long pin into the hole, and align the two parts. The magnets do the rest of the work. Steps 9-10 are cladding for the “calf.” You’ll need 6 PWB2.6x8 screws for this step. Step 8 Start by assembling the 3 parts of assembly “J.” Then, take assembly J and press it into place on the back of the lower leg, along with TR-8-18. Both of these parts are a press fit and need no adhesive. (steps 1-3) Next, press part TR-8-30 into place on the inside of the lower leg. (step 4) Step 5 is the final step of this pack, and will yield the locating pin for the foot. There are two holes in the leg, and the pin goes through the hole of your choice, and into the rubber bushing. This completes both the part, and the pack!

Looking GOOD!

Wouldn't Chitty Chitty Bang-Bang be a great build?

Pack 2 contains all sorts of engine goodness! This is a beautiful motor, and the kit captures it perfectly. Stage 008; assembling the cylinder head We start with the cam covers. They are marked L and R, so pay attention here. Starting with the right cam cover, we add the larger curved breather pipe. This is followed by installing the shorter pipe on the left cam cover. Both pipes are secured in place with a PS01 screw from inside the cam cover. (steps 1-4) Next, get the cylinder head, and the two cam shafts out and oriented correctly. The cam shafts are a 1 way only fit, but they are also marked L and R. They are a press fit into the cylinder head, so start with the left, then the right as per the build guide. Next, press the cam covers into place firmly. (steps 5-9) Lastly, there is the oil filler cap, and two fittings that will be placed on the cylinder head. Start with the oil cap, then add the two other fittings to their places on either side of the oil filler cap. (Steps 10-13) This completes the first stage of Pack 2. Stage 009; installing the spark plugs This stage adds the plugs and plug leads. Start by clipping the plugs off the sprue. Then, place each one in its position on the top of the cylinder head. These are screwed in from the underside using PS21 screws. Be careful of these as they are quite small, and there is only 1 extra. (make sure that screwdriver is magnetized!) (Steps 1-4) Next, locate both the cable tube, and the distributor with the plug leads. Orientate the shaped end of the plug leads so that it presses into the end of the cable tube. DO NOT GLUE THIS. (steps 5-6) Now, take the previous assembly and place it into position on the cylinder head with the distributor on the side opposite the closed end of the cylinder head. Fit it into position and seat firmly. (steps 7-10) Now, time for a bit if color! Sort the plug wires so that you have 5 short ones and one longer bit. Taking the long piece, bend it into a “U” shape and seat one end into the empty hole in the distributor. Insert the opposite end into spark plug 1. Follow this with plug wires 2-6. Once each plug wire is in place, press it flat to the tube. (Steps 11-17) This completes stage 2. Stage 010; building the carburetors Start by fitting the choke lever onto the main fuel line. This is a bit tricky to fit, as there is a small tongue on the end that is not inserted into the fitting on the mail fuel line. This tongue should lay flat on the fuel line. Doing this will orientate the levers in the correct position. Next, fit the fuel line end onto the pin. It is a shaped pin, so it will go on only 1 way. CAUTION; THE LEVER ASSEMBLY IS VERY FRAGILE, AND WILL STAND UP TO VERY LIMITED HANDLING. (STEPS 1 & 2) Now, fit the fuel line assembly into place on the carburetors, and press it into place. (steps 3-4) Turn the assembly over and using a PS01 screw, secure the fuel line in place. Next, press the fuel line connector into place, and add the bit of tubing to the end. (steps 5-8) Stage complete. Stage 011; fitting the carburetors This is a super quick stage, involving the carb assembly, and part of the engine block, with three screws. Using the lower part of the cylinder head, fir the carb assembly into place, and secure it with three screws. Stage done. Stage 012; Attaching the exhaust manifolds and assembling the cylinder head The first steps are to attach the exhaust manifolds. Start with the front manifold and screw it down with 2 PS28 screws, followed by the rear manifold. (steps 1-4) Now, attach the water pump with a DS01 screw, fitting the pump into its recess. Lastly, attach the upper cylinder head assembly to the lower part, securing it with 2 DS01 screws. This completes the stage. Stage 13; building the alternator and engine distribution cover Steps 1-5 are assembling the alternator. Start by placing part 13-f (the pulley) to the main body of the alternator. Next, mount the bracket, using a PS02 screw. Lastly, in step 5, press part 2 of the alternator pulley into place. Next, assemble the two halves of pulley A, which will be the first part placed on the engine distribution cover. (step7) Secure the pulley from the backside of the cover with another PS02 screw. Now, using pulley B (part 13-H) and a PS02 screw, mount the pulley to the cover as well. The last step of this stage is to mount the holder bracket to the backside of the engine cover. This is held in place with 2 DS01 screws. The stage is complete. Stage 14; Fitting the left side of the cylinder head and engine distribution cover First, we mount the cylinder head assembly to the left cylinder head, using 3 DS25 screws. A little oil or soap will help lubricate these screws as they are driving into metal. (steps 1-2) Next, the engine distribution cover is placed into position and secured with a lubricated DS25 screw. Steps 5-6 mount the alternator, which is held in place with a DS08 screw. Lastly, the fan belt from stage13 is stretched over the 3 pulleys, taking care not to get it twisted. This wraps up stage 14! Stage 15; Building and attaching the gearbox Using the right side of the gearbox and the gearbox top, mount the gearbox top to the gearbox, using 2 PS28 (washer head) screws. Next, fix the left side of the gearbox into place using 2 DS01 screws. (steps 3-4) For steps 5-6, you’ll need the gearbox front, as well as 2 more DS01 screws. Place the gearbox front into position and secure it into place with the two screws. Lastly, we mount the gearbox onto the motor using another DS25 washerhead screw. This wraps up pack 2!

Look at this seller; https://www.ebay.com/itm/284746587805?hash=item424c381e9d:g:WaAAAOSw18NiENWZ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwAkY0IXshymh7XV%2FXGUU2lx3v48sQCEd3zjS0joZhq77%2F3dtopLQI9gwIw7rPtj0QM%2FOu3QQ%2BEy86TRppPk02Phj9OFdr8IB2soxYP0wpqlDZxbaQ0i8dVZfuAukiAkoouSQgw2VLuDxZjRtKMEjcpxlDS7tRIC1xFugXYhMa2%2B%2FroWCPFiPpIS%2BpGEbkE6%2FuU6A%2Bwr7aJO7Uhhk8ewJ6LkoABmk6o2oZr6L2E%2FJduQNTRTt7qphHg0zB4KW55mFfg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-TWkcyDYw

I am inclined to think that ti is a bad test board as the battery pack is about as simple as it gets. Go here to request a new test board; https://support.agoramodels.com/hc/en-gb/requests/new HTH, Mark

More carpet! I neglected to take pics of these next two stages, but suffice it to say that they are both very easy, especially after the last 2 stages. There are only 3 sections of carper per side that need dealt with, plus 3 screws per side. Start with carpet section 2, and get it put into place followed by carpet 1 along the bottom. Follow this with carpet 3, the smallest so far! Once the carpet is in place, burnish as usual. Now, taking the tub, and the 3x NP screws, secure the panel to the left side of the tub, placing screws along the edge in the 3 indicated places. Now, rinse and repeat for the right side! Stage done.

After the last 2 stages, this one is a breeze! Apply the carpet to the rear panel, and then screw it into place on the tub assembly, using 2 JP screws. Next, making sure the sides labeled R and L are correctly orientated, fix the cross member into place using 2 MP screws. Take note that the recessed screw holes face UP when placing the cross member. Stage done!

After the nice warm-up exercise applying the carpet to the floor section, it is time for some real fiddly work! There are 6 pieces in each of these stages, 5 of which are carpet. Start with the side panel, peeling the backing paper in small sections once again. The wheel well makes this an interesting piece to do, as you are trying to get the curves of the well, and the fabric to line up. Once this section is laid down, locate the top section of the wheel well. (Carpet 3) I started on the very narrow end of this section, as I thought it might be a bit more difficult to do it last, since there is also a hole that needs to be located correctly in the carpet and the plastic sub-panel. Once the fabric panel is in place, burnish the seam with a smooth object, working the seam into the corners of the plastic sub floor. Next comes carpet 1, the side of the wheel well. Once again, start at the narrow end, working in small sections. Carpet 5 goes down the same way, followed by carpet 4. Once all the carpet sections have been applied and the seams burnished down, take the cockpit floor section and turn it upside down, along with the side panel. You'll also want 1 IP type screw. Screw the side panel to the floor, taking care as this joint is a bit fragile. Now, Repeat all these steps for stage 56! You should have mastered the art of getting the carpet to lay down smoothly, so this stage will be a breeze!

There are 5 parts to this stage, but don't let that fool you! This stage is fairly fiddly, simply because you are laying large sections of adhesive backed material onto the floor of the cockpit. The instructions say to test fit the carpet sections before laying them down. All of mine were perfect fits, so the test fitting was more like a dry run on laying it down without wrinkles. Start with the right section for the transmission tunnel. Peel about an inch of the backing paper away, and CAREFULLY line it up at the wide end of the material. get the material settled into place, then burnish the last 1/4" or so down as soon as you are happy with the placement. Accidental contact of the adhesive side can easily be pulled away, but as soon as you burnish the material down, it becomes MUCH more difficult to peel away. You can pull ans stretch the fabric to a small degree to avoid wrinkles, and aid in positioning the fabric. When the right tunnel piece is in place, it is time for the floor. I started with the side that has the oval cutout, as it provides a nice "key" to help with the alignment and placement of the fabric. Once again, start with only about 1" of adhesive exposed, and get the fabric panel placed to your satisfaction. After that, it is a matter of placing it down in small sections, so as to avoid wrinkles. You'll notice that there is a small overlap along the lower edge of the tunnel piece that creates a nice seam, covering up any red plastic that might be showing. Once you have the floor piece down, it is time to repeat the exercise on the left side, starting with the transmission tunnel piece again.

There is always something a little more fun to a stage like this, when you get to test the functions of your build. All that time you spent building gets to come to life! Start the stage by placing the keypad into the front of the remote, followed by the keyboard. Now, taking the remote back, set it into place, and press it together. It is a snap fit, and solidly locks into place. Next, place a CR2032 battery into the battery tray, and slide the tray into place. It will fit only 1 way, and should have the positive face of the battery facing up. The next steps involve removing the spare tire so as to access the battery compartment. Simply follow the steps as listed in the build guide. (I elected to NOT replace the screw that secures the spare tire in place. The catch on the access panel to the spare tire has enough strength that it supports the weight of the spare with no issues whatsoever) Now, it is time to test the functions! Work your way through the build guide steps, marking each set of LED bulbs as you go along. Once the testing is complete, return the power switch to the off position. Bundle the LED cables and stow away the chassis, as the interior carpeting is next!

These next two stages are simply connecting that small mountain of cables you are looking at. It goes quickly, and isn't troublesome at all. Intimidating though!

This stage starts with the placement of the "engine mount plugs." These are more than a bit fiddly to put into place. The masking tape on the tweezers trick is helpful, as these take a fair bit of poking and prodding to get into place. Next, connect the two power cables labeled "S" together. Take care to not attempt to connect the two connectors wrong way around, as this will bend the pins. in the connector. Now, it's time for the brains of the build, the computer board. This mounts to the top of the battery compartment. Fix the board into place with 4x EP screws. Make sure all cables are not trapped under the board when you are installing it. The battery cables in particular want to hide underneath the board. You'll now connect the switch cable to the board by inserting the connector into the socket labeled "S" on the board. placing the connector with the tweezers is the way to go, as the fuel filler neck gets in the way of fingers. Now, do the same with the battery cables ( socket "D") and the speaker cables (socket "C") Move the D cable so that it is UNDER the fuel neck. You may need to lift up the fuel filler neck ever so slightly to get the cables under the tube. Lastly, following the directions, route the switch cable around the right side of the fuel tank, and place the switch into its cutout. Make sure the switch is oriented correctly (On/Off) and secure with 2 LP screws.

Start the stage by mounting the fuel filler neck onto the fuel tank, Secure it with an IP screw. Next, mount the bracket. Note that the end is beveled to match the curve of the fuel tube. Next, snap fir the two halves of the fuel tank together. This is a good fit, so a tiny bit of force may be required. Lastly, secure the bracket to the mounting points on the battery compartment with 2 AM screws. Voila! done with the pack, and stage.

There are a couple of good ones that are being posted on ebay. They are 3D printed, for the most part. Best, Mark

It will be a couple more weeks yet before they are posted. HTH Mark

I simply put the tires in a pan with boiling water. I pull them out with tongs after 2 minutes or so, and they are soft as butter. Mind you, I am morethan a mile above sea level, so water boils at a temp less than 200 degrees. Best, Mark