Mark A

Assembling the hips, and attaching them to the legs Start with the two TR-10-71 brackets. Attach both of part TR-10-55, one to each of the brackets. (Part 22) Next, using part TR-10-39, and 4 PB 2.6x8 screws, attach part 22 to the large plastic part. Do not screw this down too tightly as the plastic part may crack. Next, attach part TR-10-09 with PM bolts. This creates part 23. Now, the side panels are added. There is a detail part that must be attached to part TR-10-07 with glue after it has been attached to part 23, I used a CA Gel type glue here. (Part 24) Now, part 25 is assembled. This consists of TR-10-03, TR-10-15, and TR-10-33. fix parts 10-33 and 10.15 on place with 2 PWM 2x6 screws, sandwiching 10-15 in between 10-03 and 10-33. (part 25) Step 6 mounts part 25 onto part 24. this is held in place by the next part, TR-10-31. Now, the assembly is bolted to the LEFT leg at the pivot point. 4 PM 3 x 6 bolts with lock washers are used here. Step 10 assembles the other side of the "pelvis" by using the remaining part 22, and part TR-10-40. fix this assembly to the RIGHT leg, using 4 PM 3x6 screws and lock washers. (part 28) Now it is time to assemble the two legs together! Using 5 PB 2.6x8 screws, join part 28 to 29 (the left leg). You'll also bolt it into place with 2 PM 3 x 8 bolts and lock washers. Step 14 creates the waist pivot assembly. assemble this as you have before with the other pivot joints, using a 20kg pivot. Bolt this down to the leg assembly, routing the cables through the forward opening. to accomplish the next steps, the hip assembly must be pivoted to the rear by 90 degrees. This allows access to the undeerside of the flaps. secure the flap covering parts with PB 2.3 x 6 screws. Stage and pack complete!

Just wait til pack 11!

Oh, yes indeed! I have been waiting 3 years for this to be released! The detail will be on par with the Agora 300SL, so it will make a fantastic companion piece.

Step 5, Assembling the upper left leg Start by assembling the hip joint. Note that there are 2 differently rated pivots, one at 20kg and the other at 40. The 40kg one goes on the "flat" portion of the holder, and the 20 kg one at the end. Use 4 PM 3x8 hex key bolts and lock washers to secure the pivots into the frame. (Part 10) Next, take TR-10-59 and secure it to TR-10-05 with 4 PM 3x6 hex key bolts. (Part 11) Now, join parts 10 and 11 together with 2 PM 3x8 bolts and lock washers. (Part 12) Part 12 gets installed into the top of the left leg. Pay attention to which leg you are using so as to not mix up Left and Right. Fit part 12 into the socket on the top of the left leg, and secure it with 2 PM 3x10 bolts and lock washers. Make sure the joint is orientated to match the diagram for step 6. Next, using the metal rod provided, insert the rod into the hollow bolt and bend the joint 90 degrees downwards, then 90 degrees to the left so that the rod ends up pointing towards the inner part of the leg. feed the wire through the hollow bolt. Now, its time to give poor Optimus some underwear! Take part TR-10-19 and secure it to the upper most portion of the hip joint. Use 4 PM screws to hold it into place. Follow this with TR-10-21, which is held in place with 2 PM 3x8 bolts. This sub assembly is now ready to have TR-10-17 installed. This is held with 3 PB screws. (Part 13) Step 12 is the installation of an internal bracket into TR-10-22. Step 13 is the addition of a bright yellow detail part to TR-10-23, which is secured from the back with a PB screw. (Part 14) Step 14 is the installation of part 13 onto the leg. use 4 PB 2.3x8 screws here. (I found that lubricating the screws helped in getting them tight, before the screwdriver started slipping) This is followed by part 14, which is screwed into place with PB 2.6x8 screws. Step 17 is the installation of a piece of silver cladding onto the previous assembly. Step 18 is the other half of this bit of cladding, and the leg is wrapped up with a cover plate, TR-10-28 which hides the screws. The right leg is assembled in the same manner, so I am not going to duplicate the post.

Attaching the wheels to the hips Using parts 7 and * as well as TR-10-38, attach the wheels to 10-38 using 6 PB 2.6 x 6 screws, and plates TR-10-52. Next, fix parts 2 and 3 into place on the previous assembly, followed by parts 5 and 6, also fixed into place in the same manner. This creates part 9.

In this parts pack, we get to build the hips and join the two legs together! We start by installing 2 rubber bushings onto TR-10-57, the hinge. Next, this assembly is mounted onto TR-10-42, the "backing plate." To capture the hinge, detail part TR-10-41 is screwed down with 4 PB 2.3x6 screws. In step 5, the amber lights get placed into TR-10-01, the housing. To secure these, the hinge assembly gets screwed down with 4 PWM 2x6mm screws. Now, repeat the sequence for the other side. Step 16 is the start of another panel. Start by adding 2 more of the TR-10-57 bushings to hinge piece TR-10-50. (Do this twice) Next, place the hinge onto TR-10-45, and capture it with TR-10-48, which is secured with 4 PB 2.3x6mm screws. This results in part 5. Once again, repeat for the opposite side, making part 6. Step 25 makes another hinge, this time for the wheel mount. place 2 of the rubber bushings onto part TR-10-54, and then mount the hinge with 2 PB2.6 x 6 screws to part TR-10-35. This makes the backing plate for the wheel mount. Next, the tires are installed onto the hub. I found it necessary to give the tires a bit of a bath in boiling water to soften them enough to get them onto the hubs. Next, take one of the large bushings, part TR-10-73, and insert it into the wheel, then mount the wheel to the backing plate assembly. Secure the wheel with a PWB 2.3 x 6mm screw. Lastly, using part TR-10-34 and 4 2.6x8mm screws, mount the wheel cover to the backing plate. This creates assembly 7. Repeat this sequence for part 8.

The Black paint job sure looks good! Nice work!! best, Mark

Were it I, I would go with either the 300SL, or the 917. Now, of these two, its a really tough choice. They both have amazing detail, excellent fit, and great looks. I have built both, and I couldn't pick one over the other if I had to! Buy both!! Problem solved! Cheers, Mark

Stage 64, The left door (2) This is another repeat of the right door. Mount the window, followed by the upper door panel. Lastly, the door piston is mounted. Stage and pack complete!

Stage 63, The left door (1) This stage is a repeat of the right door. start by mounting the lower panel, Followed by mounting the Ferrari emblem. (just to mix it up!) Stage complete

Stage 62, The right door (4) This stage will yield a finished door! All parts in this stage are pressed into place. Start with the door interior panel, and the arm rest. The panel is first, followed by the L shaped arm rest. Next, press the door handle into place. Lastly, the beautiful Ferrari emblem is mounted to the door in the recess on the outer door panel. Stage (and door) finished!

Stage 61, The right door (3) This stage gets us a bit closer to finishing the right door. Start by screwing the small detail panel into place with a AA screw. Next, fit the front panel into place using 2 Q type screws. Now, fit the interior door panel into place, securing it with 3 G screws. This is followed by the headliner, which is pressed into place. Stage complete.

Stage 60, The right door (2) This stage has the window, and the upper panel for the of the door, as well as the door piston. Start by attaching the window to the door panel from the last stage. The window is secured with 2 G screws. Next, the upper door panel is screwed into place with 2 more G screws. Lastly, the door piston is press-fit into place on the door bracket. Stage complete.

Stage 59, The right door (1) We get some beautiful bodywork in this stage.! Start by screwing together the upper and lower door parts. There are 2 B type screws used here. Next, the steering shaft is inserted into the dash from earlier stages. Stage complete

Stage 58, Fuel tank cap and recharging socket this is another quick stage. Start by mounting the rear view mirror to the windshield. This is placed on the blacked out area of the windshield. Take care to position it squarely! Next, the charging socket is pressed into place on the right side of the body. (I neglected to take pictures of this stage) The charging socket is followed by the fuel cap, which is also a press fit. Stage finished!

Stage 57, The windshield This stage starts with the addition of 2 metal hood brackets. They are screwed down to each side of the engine compartment with 2 H screws. Next, the "connection panel" is added into place and this blanks out some of the interior workings that are part of the model. Stage complete

I have to agree with you all. Optimus is one of the best quality builds I have ever done. The quality of the components is superb, and the fit is perfect! Andyes, he is heavy as all get out. Cheers, Mark

Start by mounting the windshield wiper motor onto the firewall. This is held in place with 2 FP screws. Next, secure the voltage regulator into place with an EP screw. The next parts are the hood hinges and buffers. Be warned that the buffers are small, and are prone to tweezer launch! Install the hinges to the firewall, using FP screws. They are not handed, so either will fit into place on either side. Lastly, assemble the push rod and cross shaft with one of our trusted FP screws. Stage finished!

This is one of the largest stages yet, with several pieces of carpeting that need laid down. Start with the two pieces that cover the fuel pipe tunnel. I would suggest dry fitting them a couple of times, so you can get a feel of how they will go down onto the floor. Start with piece 3. Once that was down, I put down piece 5, followed by piece 5 . Piece 3 is a bit tricky, so take your time so as to avoid wrinkles. Peel away the backing paper from a corner to start, and that will help to get everything aligned. I got lucky, and didn't have any wrinkles on piece 3. Next, the two placards are fixed into place. Now the spring that secures the jack is screwed into place. It will want to creep as you tighten the screw, so allow for that as you tighten the screw. you want it pointed straight down when you are finished tightening the screw. Next, press the two halves of the jack together, then place the jack under the spring which will hold it securely. Stage finished!

We have some chrome bling to finish the seats with in this stage! Start with one of the two back rests you just assembled. Using the seat hinge marked L1, secure it with 2 QP screws. Now, do the same for the right side, using seat hinge R1. Next, using one or the other of the seat cushions, position the hinges over the pivot points, and screw them into place using RP screws. Do not screw these down too tightly, as the seat back needs to move freely. Now, the seat belts are installed, using RP screws. Pay attention to the orientation of the seat belt buckle, as the rounded corner should be uppermost. Next, the seat adjustment lever is installed. This is a press-fit into the two holes in the seat bottom cover. (NOTE; The open end of the "hook" of the seat adjustment lever should be facing outboard, or towards the door) Following the installation of the seat adjustment lever, the seat is screwed down to the floor. The two pegs on the bottom of the seat go into the slotted holes in the seat floor. The seat is then held in place with two flanged SP screws. do not screw these down too tightly, as you want the seat to move easily. Next, assemble the right seat in the same manner, and install it again using 2 SP screws. (As noted, the seatbelt buckles should against the center console) Stage finished!

These stages are a repeat of the last few stages. I'll not be duplicating the step by step instructions.

This is essentially a repeat of the seat cushion. Place the base onto the backrest, with the tabs over the holes. secure with 4 more PP screws. Then, press the cover into place. Stage done.

Another uber simple and quick stage. (These are actually enjoyable for me, especially when confronted with a small mountain of parts, like what is in pack 8!) Place the foam inside the seat backrest. BOOM! done!

Using the seat cushion from the last stage, place the base onto the bottom of the cushion. place the tabs on the seat cushion over the base, ensuring that the holes in the cushion align with the base. Secure the base to the cushion with 4 PP type screws. Next, secure the base cover to the cushion, using 4 FP screws. Stage complete!

Another quick and easy stage! Simply place the provided foam into the lower seat cushion, making sure the 4 tabs are fully exposed.