Mark A

Stage 70, the right rear fender Again, another super simple stage. Using the detail part from stage 48, press it into place on the fender. Stage complete!

Stage 69, the rear left fender This stage is simple,with only 3 parts. Press detail A from stage 46 onto the fender. it is a tight press fit. Follow this with detail B, also from stage 46. stage complete.

Stage 68, The door control motors Start by confirming the correct orientation of the rack shaft. If it is not correctly positioned, follow the steps listed at the start of this stage. Start the stage with the rods for the door pistons. secure them as indicated with type N screws. Next, position the motor brackets, and c=screw them down with type G screws. Next, remove the steering shaft from the dash, and also retrieve the rack shaft guard from stage 52. Position the steering rod so that the flat on the shaft faces the right hand side of the model, and is so that the flat is vertical. Lastly, install the door motors, securing them with type G screws.

Stage 67, the circuit board This stage starts with mounting the roof to the interior of the body, followed by the sun visors. The roof has a single pin securing it into place, and it can be a bit of a pain to locate the pin into the socket. Now, mount the circuit board into place with 3 Type I screws. The circuit board is followed by the roof panel that came with stage 56, so you'll need to have that on hand. Route the overhead dome light so that it exits from under the panel "near" the charging socket. For this next step, you'll need the subframe part from stage 52, and the 2 uprights from stage 42. screw the subframe into place with type EE screws, then press the uprights into place. Mine were a very tight fit, so I didn't bother with CA glue. Stage complete.

Stage 66, the left door This stage finishes up the door, and mounts both doors to the body. Press the left door interior into place. This is a good fit, and will snap into place. Next, mount the arm rest, followed by the L shaped bit of trim. Retrieve the right door, and mount it into place, and secure with a type N screw, then repeat for the left door. Stage complete.

Stage 65, The left door Start by adding the small "detail part" to the door. this serves to blank off a hole in the door bodywork. Then, add the door front panel, and secure with 2 Q type screws. Next, the door interior goes in, followed by the upper interior liner. The door panel is held in place with 3 G screws. Stage complete.

This stage brings s bit more life to the build. It is really cool to see the headlights work in unison! Start by placing the right headlight into place. The, using one of the long pieces of tape, temporarily fix the headlight in the fully closed position. Then, using one of the brackets, capture the peg on the left hand side of the headlight assembly. fix in place with a FM screw. (Note; I taped it into position before the recommended time as it made assembly a bit easier) Next, tape the wires into place from the underside with the short piece of tape. Repeat for the left side. Step12 is bending the wires on the motor. Make sure you do this slowly and gently, so as to not break the posts on the motor. Move the switch wires out of the way, and temporarily place the motor with the writing facing up. Now, get the drive shaft and place it in its location. The cams fit at straight up, and 90 degrees facing forward. These cams actuate the stop switches previously installed. Now, place the keeper bracket onto the two posts, and secure with DM screws. Next, place the motor back into its socket. You may have to adjust the position of the gear on the motor to obtain a flush fit of the headlight assemblies. It took me a couple of tries before I was happy with the fit. Lastly, fit the nose panel into place, using DM screws. to test the lights, take the two pieces of tape holding the wires down off. Plug the motor wire into the motor, and then plug the is wire into socket E on the board. turn on the switch on the chassis, and using the M button on the remote, test the function. turn off when you have successfully tested the light function, and are happy with the alignment of the headlights. Stage complete!

Nice looking figure kit! How is the fit? Mark

Welcome in! The Cobra is a really enjoyable build, isn't it? Yours turned out great! Best, Mark

This stage goes super fast! Per the directions, pair up the headlight lenses so that there is one each of a lens with a wide tab, and one with a narrow tab. Match up the headlight housings with the corresponding reflector, and secure with a FM screw. Now, place a lens into the corresponding spot in the left hand headlight housing. repeat with the other lens in the set. Do the same with the right hand headlight housing. With the chassis on hand, unplug the two wires labeled A1, and then do the same with the cables labeled A2. Pair the long and short cables together. Using the long A! cables and LEDs, fit the LED into the reflector of the left hand light housing, and then repeat with the right hand housing. Pay attention to the way the wires cross, and the manner in which they are pressed into the recess of the headlight housing. Lastly, press the headlight covers into place. The final step is to place a bit of tubing onto the firewall. Stage complete!

This stage is a bit fiddly. Start by identifying switch mounts A and B. Then, using mount A, match up the screw holes. Use a UM screw to secure the switch to the base. Now, repeat for switch mount B. Use the switch extension cable to extend the switch cord. Now, remove the two braces from the front body, and place the large piece of tape where indicated. do the same for the small piece of tape as well. Next, CAREFULLY bend the wires so that they lay flat against the body of switch A, and then repeat for switch B. Next, Install switch A, paying attention to the two large screw holes match u, and that the switch is facing the rear of the body. secure with a DM screw. Install switch B so that the switch tongue is facing forward, and secure with another DM screw. Stage complete!

Thanks, Ian!

This stage wraps up the dashboard, and mounts the dash and firewall to the cockpit tub. The first step is to insert the speedometer dial into its bezel. This is accomplished the same way as the clock face was done. The tab fits into the slot and then this assembly is pressed into the instrument panel. Repeat this for the Tachometer as well. The above assembly sequence is repeated for the 4 smaller instruments as well. Take care to align these so that the instruments are not at an angle to the bottom of the instrument panel. The next 5 steps are the placement of the various switches and buttons on the face of the dash. Now, locate the headlight switch. this is placed on the bottom edge of the panel, and fits into a shaped hole. The next part is somewhat fragile, so take care to not use too much force when pressing it home, Locate the hood latch, and press it into the hole to the left of the steering wheel cutout, securing it with a TP screw. Now, assemble the hood latch. This has some spectacularly small writing on it that is perfectly legible, so orient the part right side up, so those with a magnifying glass can read it! This assembly is placed on the far left of the panel, and is held in place with a BP screw. Next is the bracket for the handbrake. Again, this is mounted with a screw from the backside of the panel. When this is mounted, insert the handbrake handle into the hole, ensuring that the writing is right side up. Now, go get the chassis, and disconnect the A3 cable from the main wiring harness. Next, place the instrument panel trim on the rear of the panel assembly, ensuring that the cable will not be getting pinched between the circuit board and the trim piece. secure it in place with 3 BO screws. Now, route the cable between the dashboard and the frame, with the LED bulb angled in behind the dashboard. Fix the instrument panel into place with 3 UP screws. Then, from the underside, drive a FP screw through the frame, and into the bottom of the instrument panel. Push the LED bulb into the back of the clock reflector. This is a bit of a tight fit, so be gentle. Next, mount the clutch and brake pedal assembly to the frame. Lastly, run the wire across the back of the dash, and using the provided adhesive tape, fix it to the back of the glove box. Retrieve the clutch bellcrank assembly from stage 72, and insert the shaped peg into the corresponding hole in the firewall, securing it with a FP screw from the back. Using 2 AM screws to fix the two together, align the dashboard brackets with the two tabs on the firewall, and screw the to assemblies together. Next, push the free end of the hose on the firewall onto the handbrake rod. Time to mount the steering wheel! Take the steering wheel, and position the bracket over the two remaining holes on the underside of the instrument panel. drive home 2 AP screws to secure the steering wheel assembly to the dash. Now, retrieve the cockpit tub, and mount the bit of hose coming off the left side of the cockpit to the hood latch. Use a bit of CA here, as the hose WILL pop off during assembly! Align the tabs on the cockpit floor with the notches on the dashboard assembly, and starting with the center console, secure with a FP screw. Now, mount the firewall to the cockpit with 3 SP screws. This completes a rather long and involved stage!

This stage brings us one step closer to finishing the dash. Start by adding the hinge joint to the glove box lid. Fix this in place with 2 BP screws, ensuring that they are not too tight and that the glove box lid has free movement. The next step is to add the lovely piece of stainless steel to the glove box lid. Peel the backing paper off, and carefully place this into position, then press it down firmly. You'll need the dash board assembly for this next step. place the glove box interior then from the backside, position the Z shaped bracket over the two screw holes and secure with AP screws. Next, slide the glove box lid into position from the front and screw it to the frame with 2 FP screws. (Don't worry if the lid doesn't close properly. The box interior might need a bit of repositioning, and a 3rd screw into the frame will get things sorted) The next step is to add the 4 switches to the center console, followed by the radio face. This completes this stage!

More dash work! This stage starts with the left part of the center console. Push the cigar lighter into its location hole. Then, using the dashboard assembly from the previous stage, Fit the panel over the two bosses on the dashboard, and secure with 2 EP screws. repeat this step with the right hand panel. Next, fit the clock face to the chrome bezel, aligning the notch in the bezel with the tab on the clock face. align the clock face to the large hole in the center of the console, and press it home. Next, fit the reflector to the backside of the clock, and fix it in place with an EP screw. Now, using the frame piece, secure it to the back of the dash assembly with 2 EP screws. (The third screw will be added in an upcoming step) Moving on, the brake and clutch pedals are next. The clutch is labeled L, and the brake R. Fit these onto the pedal linkage, and fix in place with 2 AP screws. The last two steps are adding the 35mm bit of hose to the firewall, and the longer (43mm) bit of hose to the sidewall of the cockpit tub. Secure these with a bit of CA glue. thsi completes stage 75.

This stage starts with the assembly of the steering wheel. Select both the support base and the "hub."Press the hub into the base. I found I needed a bit of glue here, to keep the hub in place. Next, add the steering column to the previous assembly, followed by the steering wheel. The wheel is secured to the steering column with a FM screw. next, the horn button is added to cover the screw, and this then receives a lovely Corvette emblem in the center of the wheel. Take care placing this, as it should be orientated perpendicular to the center spoke on the steering wheel. (I used the tip of an Xacto #11 blade to remove the sticker from the backing paper, and also to place it into position) The Steering wheel is followed by the brake booster. Start by adding the clutch pump to the booster body. This will align only 1 way, due to a peg on the pump body. Hold the clutch pump onto the booster body with an EP screw. The next step is to add the booster pump bracket to the second part of the brake booster. secure this in place with another EP screw. Now, press the second part of the brake booster onto the main body. this is a solid press fit here, so no screw or adhesive is needed. The clutch pump filter is added to the assembly next, resulting in a complete assembly. Retrieve the firewall, and place the brake booster assembly into place, securing it from the back side with 2 EP screws. Stage complete!

We get to start building one of the jewels of the Corvette in this stage, namely the dashboard. Start by attaching the left panel to the dash, followed by the right hand side. These are both held in place with 2 EP screws on each side. Next, the two firewall brackets are added, secured with 2 FP type screws. Now, retrieve the firewall, and the first part of the heater assembly. place the heater ducting in place, and then secure with 2 EP screws. The heater motor is next, and this is just a pressfit into place. Lastly, a length of hose is placed onto it's peg on the firewall. I recommend a bit of CA glue here to secure it, as it's position will receive a bit of knocking around. Stage finished!

I also have a 10V that started life as a machined kit. It was a garage sale find, and was $25 as I recall. I have never run it. It sits in the curio cabinet.

They both look fantastic! I'm with Mark, great job on the weathering!

Looking fantastic!

Stage 30, Mounting the rear chassis Six screws and done! Place the rear chassis into place, and secure with 6 DS02 screws. Stage done!

Stages 27, 28 and 29, Building the wheel (Regular) Once again, here is the video which does a better job explaining the process than I could in type.

Stage 26, Fitting the steering rod There is a lot going on on this stage! Start by adding the steering ball joint to the steering column. This is secured in place with a knurled pin. Press the pin home, starting with the smooth end. Next, repeat with the other end. Now, place the steering column into the chassis, with the flat portion of the D shaped socket facing upwards. Next, feed the steering rod in through the triangular opening in the chassis, then out through the same shaped opening on the opposite side of the chassis. Align both wheel hubs so that they are straight ahead, and parallel to each other, keeping the D shaped opening flat side up. Now, rotate the steering rod so that the teeth engage the teeth on the steering column. Using DS24 screws, compress the suspension, and attach the steering rod to each hub assembly. leave these somewhat loose, as you want the steering to move freely. Insert the anti roll bar through the same openings as the steering rod, with the bosses for the screws on the front side of the chassis. Attach the two brackets to the chassis frame, capturing the anti roll bar in place. Using 2 PS14 screws, attach the ends of the anti roll bar to the brackets on the suspension. The next step is to secure the steering rod in place, using the two brackets with the U shaped hook at the bottom. secure in place with a DS03 screw. Stage complete!

Stage 25, assembling the left front suspension. This stage wraps up the front suspension, so lets get after it! Start by mounting the anti roll bar connection point to the lower control arm. Secure the connection with a PS31 screw. Next, mount the lower control arm to the chassis using the knurled pins provided. There are pressed in from the outside of each bracket. The shock absorber rod is mounted the same way, with a knurled pin. Now, place the provided spring over the shock rod, and then place the shock cylinder into the spring, and over the shock rod. Position the shock cylinder top into the bracket after having moved the upper control arm out of the way. Using the last knurled pin, secure the top of the shock absorber to the chassis. Next, install the hub from stage 24 onto the lower control arm, and fix into place with a DS24 screw, then repeat with the upper control arm. Don't overtighten these, as you want the hub to move freely on the control arms. Stage complete!

Pack 4 finishes off the front suspension, the chassis, and has another wheel being built. Stage 24, Building the left wheel hub, and fitting the upper control arm. this is a super quick stage. Start by mounting the left brake disc to the hub, and trapping the disc with the caliper assembly. Secure the caliper to the hub with 2 DS21 screws. Next, the upper control arm is mounted to the chassis using the two brackets which are secured with 4 DS27 screws. Stage complete!