Mark A

Wow! You are moving right along! Is it a fun build? Best, Mark

I can’t wait to see it! best, Mark

Assembling the Left Hand Locate TR-3-26 and TR-3-14. Using 2x PB2x5 screws, attach TR-3-24 to the palm. Then, in step 2, attach the fingers. As the directions indicate, it is much easier to attach the fingers by twos. Otherwise, it’s like trying to get snakes into a basket. Screw the thumb to the palm with 2x PB2.6x6 screws, then add TR-3-29 to the palm as well, (not pictured) using another PB2.3x6 screw. (Step 3) In step 4, the wrist joint is made. The metal part, TR-3-51 will only go in one way, and it does take a bit of persuasion. For step 5, locate the two wrist brackets, TR-3-24 and TR-3-25. Screw these together, with the part from step 4 sandwiched between them to the inside of the left han . For step 6, locate the back of the hand (TR-3-27) and apply CA glue as indicated. This is a good tight fit, but a bit of glue will not be amiss, given that the hand will be manipulated while posing the model on completion. Steps 7 and 8 are concerned with the wrist joint. Again, the metal part TR-3-51 will need a bit of persuasion to be seated fully into place in TR-3-25. Next, locate parts TR- 3-20,21, and 22. Assemble as shown, using 4 PB2.3x6 screws. This wraps up the left hand! Give yourself a pat on the back. It’s been a fiddly stage!

Steps 1-7 Assembling the fingers is virtually the same process as building the thumb, but with an added “joint.” As before, snip the parts from the sprues TR-3-40, TR-3-41, and TR-3-44 and assemble using the rubber washers and 3x PB2x5mm screws. Snap the covers off of TR-3-34, and secure with CA glue, as indicated. I did these “Assembly line” style. It makes fast work of a rather repetitive task.

Wayne is posting here on my invitation. There are times when seeing one of his video answers questions that have arisen during the build process on a particular kit. Best, Mark

Assembling the thumb Step 1 OK Gang, here we are with pack 3! The first bit of work is assembling the thumb. Pay attention to the part numbers here, as it is easy to get the wrong parts involved with this assembly. (Don’t ask….) Start by clipping the parts you’ll need, TR-3-38, nos 1.2,3 and part 6 from sprue TR-3-39. You’ll also need the sheet of rubber washers, and 2x of the PB2x5mm screws. (These are the shorter ones) Take care of the sheet of rubber washers, as there is an exact count on the sheet. Once the parts have been clipped, assemble them as shown, with a rubber washer on each side of the part. Next, snip part 4 from sprue TR-3-39. This part forms the base thumb joint. Place the 3 TR-3-45 rubber parts onto the thumb base, then insert this assembly into part TR-3-28. (Assembly A) Now, snap part 5 into the assembly, then screw the thumb to part 5, using 2 more of the PB2x5mm screws, Locate sprue TR-3-33 and BREAK the parts off of the sprue. This goes against decades of modeling experience, but it really does look cleaner than snipping them off. Using CA glue, apply it to the areas indicated and then place the finger covers into position. Let the glue dry before manipulating the thumb.

Nice! What’s the coin of? It looks like a course, but I’m not sure which one. Cheers! mark

If you go here https://support.agoramodels.com/hc/en-gb/requests/new You’ll be able to submit a parts replacement request. best, Mark

Rest assured, Agora Models is far from going under! best, Mark

It seems to be an issue with the molds that predates Agora. I have a friend who built the Hachette Italia version of this, and the body had the same problems. He is a body and fender repair man though, and I’ll see the outcome Friday night at the IPMS club meeting. He says it turned out ok. I’ll post pics, and pick his brain on how he achieved his results. Mark

La Ferrari Pack 2 Stage 9 Right Hand Head Cover In this step, we add the spark plug caps to the second head cover, as well as adding the chrome “bolt heads” to the head cover. Start by snipping off 4 of the plug caps and place them as in the previous step. They will only fit one way, so this is an easy step. Next, we start adding tiny, slippery bolts to the periphery of the head cover. There are several different types of bolts used, so pay attention to both the type, and the placement of each. I found that using tweezers was adequate without the need for anything more aggressive. (IE Needle nose pliers) This is a time consuming step, so take your time, and don’t launch any of the bolts! Stage 10, Front Air Intakes This step closes off the front nose section and is yet another example of how well this kit goes together. I was apprehensive that the mesh would be difficult to align and hold in place, but my fears proved to be unfounded. Start with the large section of mesh, and a single A type screw. (The side intakes secure the two sides) Once the frame and mesh have been secured, get the left intake frame, and the small piece of mesh. The mesh will fit only 1 way, and it is a bit fiddly to secure in place until the frame is screwed down. Repeat with the right side. This wraps up stage 10. Stage 11 This is a super simple step, simply adding the hydraulic bonnet strut to the bonnet. I taped the two segments together for the time being. Also included in this step is a front rim, which will be used in step 12. Stage 12, Front left tire I have found that hot water is completely unnecessary with the tires so far. The tire is a good, snug fit to the rim, yet is malleable enough that extra persuasion is not needed. Make sure that the bead on the tire is seated fully in the corresponding area on the rim, with no gaps. Stage 13, The Passenger Seat This goes together just like the previous seat, and is a quick bit of work. I again used a bit of CA glue to secure the head rest to the seat back, as I felt the parts hold was a bit loose. Stage 14, The Dashboard FUN STUFF! The dash is a work of art, It consists of 5 parts, which are stacked on top of each other. Start by assembling parts A and B, secured with 2 B type screws. Next, the bar with the AC vents is added to the control panel. Lastly, the lower portion of the dash is added, to the previous assembly, resulting in a dash! Stage 15, The Sports Controls I only screwed the dash panel and instrument panel together for this stage. Mounting the steering wheel at this stage seemed to invite breakage, so I skipped over the rest of this stage, save mounting the steering column. The instrument panel required a bit of persuasion to seat in the correct position, but it was minimal effort. Stage 16 Internal structures The Internal structures depicted here are parts of the cockpit tub. Start by screwing the central “bridge” to the frame, then screw the frame to the actual cockpit floor. Then screw the front bulkhead into place. TaDaaa! Pack 2 is done!

Looks fantastic! Your detail parts go a long way towards drawing the eye into the build. best, Mark

Hi Joseph, At this time, the kit is not available as a full kit, I'm afraid. Best, Mark

I built the Eaglemoss kit in entirety. It is outstanding! I did not notice any paint issues, and the fit is great. The only complaint I might have, and I'm digging deep here, is that the props for the doors are a bit weak, and don't hold the doors fully open. Best, Mark

HI, A good automotive paint shop should have a laser scanner to match the color. HTH, Mark

Hello! Please go here; https://support.agoramodels.com/hc/en-gb/requests/new and submit your problem. best, mark

Stage one is super simple; you place the Ferrari badge onto the front nose. It is a press fit, so make sure it’s seated well. Stage two is the 4 parts of the driver’s seat. I love the way it looks almost like real leather! We start by adding the” front upholstery” to the seat pan, using 2 B type screws. Next, the back rest is added, followed by the headrest. I used a tiny bit of CA on the headrest, as the connection seemed to be a bit tenuous. Stage three is the front splitter and the aileron. You’ll need 5 A type screws for this stage. We start by adding the aileron to the front nose from stage one. This is secured in place with 1 screw. Make sure the aileron is parallel to the front nose. Next, the front splitter is added, and secured with 4 screws. Isn’t the carbon fiber decal amazing? Stage four is the rim and mounting the tire. Simple stuff, and I found that the tire was pliable enough that hot water was not needed at all. Make sure the bead on the tire is flush with the rim all the way around. It might take a bit of fettling to get it into place. Stage 5 is adding the hinges to the bonnet. Make sure the screws have a bit of lubricant on them, as it will make seating them much easier. You’ll need 2 C type screws here. The hinges only fit one way, so you don’t have to worry about mixing them up. Stage 6 is adding a bit more detail to the bonnet. You’ll need 4 D type screws for this stage. Get the bonnet airfoil pressed into place, then follow it up with the vent framework. This will secure the airfoil into place. Stage 7 is another super simple stage, adding the Ferrari nameplates to the airbox. Simply peel and stick these into place over the printed nameplate on the airbox. I elected to not do this at this point, as the chances of knocking them off during later assembly stages seems high. The final stage of pack one is adding the spark plug caps to the head cover. Simply snip off 4 of them, and place them so the notch in the head cover engages the small post on the plug cap. This wraps up pack one!

Building the left control arm To start, you’ll need the wheel you assembled in stage 4. You’ll be attaching the brake drum to the wheel assembly. This stage goes pretty quickly, and is simple stuff, which is nice after all the plug wires! After the drum is attached with 2 DM screws, we turn our attention to the backing plate, with its two vents. The two vent panels are a press fit in, and will only fit one way, so no worries about getting the wrong part placed. After the vents have been placed, attach the brake line using a dab of CA on the pin to hold the hose firmly in place. (Steps 4-9) Next, we assemble the control arms. Start by matching up the R and L parts. You’ll also need 4 IM type screws. Make sure the screws are lubricated, as they are a tight fit! After the first (L) control arm is assembled, you’ll attach the suspension upright to the control arm with a JM screw. (steps 11-14) Then, you’ll add the backing plate to the assembly, using 2 DM screws. You’ll follow this step by adding the whole she-bang to the wheel, using a type CM screw. (Steps 17-20) Finally, you’ll assemble the right-hand control arm parts. (steps 21-22) This completes a rather busy pack 2!

Amazing looking! Nice job! Mark

Try putting it all into a tub of water, then put it all into the freezer. The expanding water will often pop off glued parts without damage. HTh! Mark

Glad you’re enjoying it, Ian!

Fitting the alternator and attaching the belts Steps 1-6 deal with the assembly of the alternator. This is a pretty straightforward job, starting with the alternator fan. Press fit the fan onto the cover, then locate the alternator front, and using an EP screw, screw the fan assembly onto the alternator front. Next, locate the rear of the alternator. It’s easy to find, as it is prewired. Taking note of the pin on the alternator front and the corresponding socket in the rear body, press fit the two parts together. Next, we add the top alternator bracket to the block. Use a DM screw to attach the bracket to the block, leaving the bracket somewhat loose. (Steps 7-8) In steps 9-12, the alternator is fitted Start with the lower bracket, then attach the upper bracket. Now, firmly tighten the screw holding the bracket to the block. Now, get ready to herd snakes! The next steps (13-26) deal with the rear cable shield, and its 3 parts. I really don’t have much to add here, as the directions are very well laid out. The only suggestion I might have is that is step 18, don’t trim too much cable off. I snipped off bits until I was happy and it all fit under the cable shield. The next steps are simple; Apply the sticker to the upper part of the transmission, then mount the transmission onto the engine block with 2 DM screws. Now, we build the power steering pump and pulley. Assemble the pump as shown in the build guide. There are no real tricks to the assembly, mount the bracket with two AP screws. Mount the pump assembly to the left side of the engine block with two lubricated screws. Next, we mount the belts onto the block. This is easy work again and goes without troubles. With that, the stage is done! It looks like a motor now!

Connecting the spark plugs and shielding the cables This is by far and away the fiddliest stage of the build so far. It is akin to trying to tame a basket of snakes. Steps 1-5 Start by removing the exhaust manifold, and then locate the SHORTEST spark plug wire. Insert a plug into the cable, with a dot of CA to secure it. (Trust me, you’ll want a secure attachment later) Insert the plug into the left-hand hole at about a 30 degree down angle. Next, use a 100mm cable and repeat the assembly of the plug, but this time, insert the plug into the second from left hole in the engine block. Steps 6-12 Now, locate two of the longest cables as well as the right-hand lower cable guide. Press the two cables into the cable shield, leaving about 30mm exposed on the shorter end. Now, using a DM screw, attach the cable shield to the block. Now, locate a spark plug and insert it into the block, matching the angle of the previous two plugs. Repeat with the last cable and plug. At this point you may want to adjust the length of the cables. Gently pull on the longer ends of the cables to get the plug cable to a length you prefer. Steps 13-15 You’ll need the exhaust manifold for this next stage. Also, locate the lower cable guide as well. Using a DP screw, attach the lower shield to the manifold, and reattach the manifold to the block using the same two screws. Steps 16-29 These steps are the same as the previous 15,save that you leave out the right hand screw for the next steps. Steps 30-31 Take the lower left cable shield (the largest one) and using an AM screw, attach it to the block. Voila! Tamed snakes! They will get feisty in the next stage though.

Assembling the engine block and attaching the fuel injection unit. Well gang, the parts count in this stage goes up! We have 14 parts to add to the growing engine block, most of which are pulley halves, and the fan. Steps 1-4 are assembling pulley halves. Start with pulley halves 6 & 4 and press these together, followed by pulley half S which is pressed onto the set you just made, yielding a double pulley. Step 5 & 6 are attaching this pulley to the block. Next, add the water pump to the block with 3 FM type screws, followed by adding the provided length of hose and the hose connector. As usual, I added a tiny bit of CA to the hose/hose connector joint to keep the hose firmly in place. (Steps 7-10) Now, something a bit more fun, the fan! We start with the fan clutch, taking care to align the parts as required, and press fit until it is tight all the way around the joint. I found this to be a very tight fit. Next, the fan is installed onto the clutch, making sure the two pins on the fan are fit into the two correct holes in the clutch assembly. Use 2 AP screws to secure the fan onto the clutch. (as a side note, I was curious why the fan was asymmetrical, and here is the answer; It seems that a harmonic vibration would set up, and this cause a rather loud hum. So, they offset the spacing of the fan blades to eliminate this obnoxious noise) Next, we assemble a pulley I which is another double. This is attached to the water pump housing, with a DM screw. The last bit in assembling the fan is to press the fan post into the pulley. Now, take the rear panel of the engine block and place it so that the two tabs fit into place on the two posts inside the block. Using two lubricated DM screws, secure it into place. Next, take the assembly of the engine block top, and fit this into place, and secure using 4 lubricated DM screws. Lastly, we get to fit the injector unit to the engine block! The Injector assembly will fit only 1 way around, so it is a bit of a no brainer which way it should face. Seat it into the two raised screw holes, and secure with two DM screws. Start at the front (fan side) screw, then move to the rear. Attach the two hoses as directed. The next step was a bit fiddly. Take the short plastic water hose and fit it into place. I found this step easier to do if I removed the fan previously installed, then reinstalled if after the water hose was in place. That's it for Stage 12!