Pack 12 - Stage 93. Rear hood panel and replacement fuel pipes.

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 93 gives us the panel for the rear hood and some replacement fuel pipes.  

Unfortunately my fuel hoses were missing from the pack, so I'll have to come back to them later.  My fuel pipes are all glued in place, so I may find that trying to remove them will spoil the model.  If so, I'll leave them as they are.   I glued them before I saw this pack, hence my red edit to the relevant stages in the official build.   Agora have now added a note to stage 69 advising builders not to glue the fuel lines.

Push the locks onto the lock bases.  You may need to scrape the silver paint and/or mould lines off the pins to get them to fit without a gap.

Fit the lock bases to the rear hood panel with a couple of screws.

They look like this from the front.

This completes the stage.

 

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

I've received the replacement fuel lines now.  Unfortunately I overlooked taking a photo of the new lines before I started to fit them, but you get a length of black plastic tubing, and a short and longer length of silver plastic tubing.

If you have glued any of your fuel pipes I would strongly recommend that you don't try fitting this replacement tubing as you will end up breaking the locating pins as you try to pull the pipes off!  It's possible to fix this, but it's very difficult to do it neatly.  The model looks great without the modified plumbing.  While the plumbing may be more accurate once modified, I don't suppose anybody but the most enthusiastic Porsche 917 enthusiasts would spot the inaccuracies.  

First, on the left chassis plate, remove the 2 braided pipes and the thin black pipe, already removed, but indicated by red lines.  It's probably obvious, but I'm a much better modeller than I am Photoshop artist!  You can see where two of the pins have broken off where the braided pipes were glued in place!

To fix the broken pins, replace them with a short piece of brass rod.  1.5mm dia. for the braided pipes and about 1mm for the smaller pipes.  Cut the remnants of the broken pin off flush, then drill a hole that you can glue the brass rod into.  Start with a smaller drill, then drill the final hole to size.  It's easier to drill a smaller hole accurately!  You'll also need to make sure you remove any burrs from the brass, and rub the brass with sandpaper to give the glue a good key.  You'll also need to drill the broken pin out of the pipe connector.

Here's a pin I fitted to the fuel filter.

Moving to the right hand chassis plate, we need to disconnect all three braided file lines (drawn in red), and also the silver plastic pipe (removed, but drawn in green).  One of the braided pipes from the fuel filler neck needs to be refitted on the Y connector.  You'll notice that this has a pin fitted to the fuel pipe as the pin broke off the Y piece.  

Here is the braided fuel line reconnected to the Y connector.

Now we need to fit the new pipe 93D.  This goes from the rear of the right chassis plate to the fuel filter.  Here is the connection on the right chassis plate, highlighted with red.

Here's the connection onto fuel filter.

Pipe 93E goes from the fuel pump on the left chassis plate to the fuel manifold.

Pipe 93F is the black pipe that goes from the fuel filler neck to the fuel manifold cap on the left chassis plate.

Here's the connection to the filler neck.

Here's the connection to the cap on the fuel manifold.  A bit difficult to get a decent photo as it's hidden behind other pipes.

These are the pipes that you will have removed and can be discarded.

This completes the re-plumbing.