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Of course, an engine like this also needs air to breathe, so we continued with the intake manifold.

The components from two editions



assembled and aged.



When installing it on the motor, I discovered an error in the instructions.
The intake manifold was mounted to the holes in the exhaust manifolds in the instructions, great!
When installed correctly, it belongs at the top between the spark plugs


Here is the correct fit


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And because everything was so much fun, I continued straight away.
Now it's about the wheels. Two complete sets are included with the kit. So 8 tires and one set of simple spokes and one set of rims for the single spokes.


Here I'll show you step by step how to assemble the simple version.


















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Wheels simple variant 2nd part

The tires are extremely hard and must be softened to be fitted.


5 minutes in boiling water and the tires are soft and can be easily slipped onto the rims.





The rear wheels are larger and wider than the front ones.

W196R-180.jpg.ca966cd7659a3cd55a97f5581ecba747.jpg W196R-181.jpg.6f9171a6b863417092dbfec38b3ddcfd.jpg

Now the chassis can stand on its own feet.
Sir Stirling Moss and his team are watching the construction closely.


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and we continue with the expansion tank.


The components are thoroughly checked by Jack.


Once the final inspection was completed, installation was relatively easy.


Only the red lid still needs to be painted black. This comes from the Fangio car with the red starting number, Moss's car has a black number.


in the next edition there were two diagonal braces for the frame.


According to the construction instructions, these should be laid through the tangle of hoses, cables and wires.


But I will install it over this, just like the original.



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  • 3 weeks later...

good morning,

We continue in the interior, today it was the turn of the cockpit floor. From the manufacturer, this part is only supplied in black plastic.


In my original pictures I only found this assembly in aluminum.


and with corresponding aging


So everything was painted in different shades of silver.


and supplemented with a few screws and studs


The smooth footrests were newly cut from honeycomb sheet metal


Everything installed and aged makes it a much more harmonious sight


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And we quickly move on to the interior, the dashboard.
The instruments are also wonderfully designed from the back, so I couldn't resist adding lines and cables to them.
Together with the handlebar and the upper part of the tubular space frame.
And everything is mounted on the vehicle
The pedals
aged and installed
Old Jack is back at work and can hardly be stopped
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good morning,
Since I'm not allowed to go out at the moment due to health reasons, I have a lot of time and can show something again.
Actually, now it would be the driver's seat but... more on that later.
So I worked my way further back and put the two tanks together in the rear and installed them.
All lines/hoses and cables have now also been neatly attached to the frame. Here are just the pictures without any comments.
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Since the next project is already in the starting blocks, things are moving on quickly here, today the wheels.

As I already wrote when building the wheels, the kit comes with 2 complete sets of tires and rims.

A "simple" version with spokes made from etched parts and a regular version with single spokes.

Since I'm presenting the car after racing, the simple wheels were just right for me.

Nicely dirty and worn and the regular ones will be ready to change the wheels later.

First of all, another picture of the 4 “simple” wheels


It started with sanding the tread and gluing small stones into the profile.


I was more brutal with the rear wheels; they should really reflect the fighting spirit on the track.


The tire wear on my floor was nothing to sneeze at either.


Now came the dirt, in some old pictures you can see that some of the wheels were completely black, I decided on a slightly milder version.


When the model is finished, it looks absolutely harmonious to me.



Sir Stirling Moss also seems happy.



What do you all mean?

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good morning,

As I already announced, it would have already been the seat's turn. However, the one supplied with the kit cannot be used in this way.

Here are the components from the delivery.


This is what the seat would look like according to the building instructions.


Although, that's not true, according to the building instructions it would be red, since nothing has been changed here and the building instructions were taken from IXO's Fangio car.


But now the bad news... Unfortunately, Agora put absolutely no effort into the design of the seat.


I also find it really bad that the side panels are extremely offset from the back section.



But even if everything were well made, the color would still be absolutely wrong. The seat is way too bright.

I have pictures of the original Mercedes Benz upholstery material and it tends to be more gray.


I also got a piece of this original fabric and the color is clear here. It is gray and not white and the blue is significantly darker.


Furthermore, the front edge of the seat was not black.


So I painted these silver and then copied the shape of the side parts onto paper and then transferred them to the leather.

Incidentally, Sir Stirling Moss' seat was navy blue and not black like the kit part.





Now I could reupholster the pages.



In the second part (as soon as I have dark blue viscose flakes) the backrest is flocked from the outside.

Then I have to take care of the correct fabric cover.

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I'm just an interested spectator sitting by watching your progress.   I did a scratch build of this car a few years ago on another site and of course I ran into the same problem you are dealing with about getting a decent looking fabric for the seat.   My wife, who makes quilts showed me a cool idea which might help you.   

I found that Mercedes has reprinted this fabric in several colours and I was able to download a good quality image of the Moss' blue.   I massaged that image in my photo editor till I had it at the correct scale for my 1/18th model.     Here's the cool part.   Here in Canada you can buy what's called wax freezer paper used for wrapping food to be stored in a freezer.   My wife showed me that a piece of fabric can be steam-ironed onto a sheet of it and it will adhere perfectly and I assume the wax surface melts just enough to bond to the cloth..   Now you just trim that piece of fabric/wax paper to an A4 size and it can be run through a printer and have the image printed on it.   I suggest you try a very tight weave of fabric to be closer to scale.  It works a charm.

Here's my fabric ...


Hope this helps.


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I really like that, I got an original sample of exactly this fabric and want to use these colors.

Why is it always shown with a blue and white checkered pattern in so many model representations? It's gray and not white!

In the piece you have on hand, the blue seems a bit pale but definitely closer to the original than the bad sticker from the kit.

I plan to print the printout on T-shirt transfer and then transfer it to fine white fabric.

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good morning,

Seat part 2: I finally got the viscose flakes for the outside of the seat. Big thanks to Stefan for the quick help.

Although these are supposed to be navy blue, they are very light or blue, more like royal blue but good, you can't get anything else.

So everything is prepared and ready for flocking. I chose a grey-blue adhesive varnish to take out some of the strong blue.


And now things have to happen quickly again. Apply varnish and sprinkle flakes immediately.


After they dry you can see the disaster... The blue is, I won't say it, but hm... and I was too slow again, in some places the paint was too dry again and the flakes didn't stick.



I don't like it at all, crap, but when installed you can't see much anyway.


Then I worked on the upholstery material. I redrew the pattern on the PC and printed it out on normal paper as a test.


In the enlargement you can see what the printer does with it.


Definitely better than the smooth sticker from the kit. I then want to print the whole thing on a T-shirt transfer and iron it onto fine cotton fabric.

Let's see how it works out.


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It gave me no peace, I was absolutely not satisfied with the first result, so I took everything down and started again from the beginning. I thought about mixing the flakes, so I first mixed a small amount as a test and when it looked good, an appropriate amount for my project.


I sifted the blue with a little black, a small amount of silver gray and a relatively large amount of graphite gray over and over again until everything was mixed well and evenly.


What can I write, I'm absolutely satisfied now.


So if you need a different color for your project, the flakes can be mixed perfectly.

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Nice job on the flocking ... looks much better.   I like your fabric colours too but if I may suggest you scale the pattern up a bit.   It looks quite a bit too small.

Here's the W196 that was sold recently and the pattern is much more open,




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Hello Frank,

You have a good eye for proportion, I printed the squares on 4x4 mm in my test print.

The dimensions of the original check are 40x40 mm, which is 5x5 mm in our scale.

Before I print on the transfer film, I will enlarge the checks accordingly.

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good morning,

The T-shirt transfer film arrived and I was able to print out my design.


Either the temperature wasn't right or my processing time was too slow. In any case, the backing paper was very difficult to put on but the middle area can be used.


The pattern turned out just great, I think.


Next, the components are glued. Here you can see again in comparison how simply and poorly the kit parts were created and glued.

The checks on the pieces are also too small at 4x4 mm, the original fabric has 40x40 mm boxes and in our scale these are 5x5 mm.


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Nice looking print there!!    Don't mean to be a critic but the scale of the kit patterns seems to be correct if you compare it to the photo I sent of that actual W196 which was auctioned off.   You can see there were six full size blocks across the front of the seat and that is what the kit has.   I'm thinking you should maybe double check your own scale cloth before applying it.

Here's an image I've put together which puts the real seat up against the kit seat at the same scale and the kit is dead on.


greenshot  10_40_41.jpg

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  • 5 weeks later...
good morning,
It's coming to an end, I've now finished the seat. In the first step I made my file a little smaller, so the checks look a little better.
The individual parts of the seat could then be reupholstered. I like the result much better than the kit variant specified by Agora Models.
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Now the cladding can finally be put on and the body is closed.
Let's start with the nose, this will be permanently installed later and is not removable.
Here is an original picture of a very battered front.
Denting the protective grille of the intake tract was more difficult than expected, the photo-etched part is really extremely stable. I'm guessing stainless steel here.
According to the construction instructions, the radiator grille should be installed with a spring to keep it closed.
In the original there was a linkage so that the driver could fold the grille up while driving and use the wind to clean the grille.
I left out the spring so that the flaps could be shown open.
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let's get to the main part of the body.
The first thing that was installed here was the two tank flaps.
Then came the ventilation flaps for the driver's footwell.
These can be opened and closed by the driver using a linkage.
In the last step of this assembly, the circuit board and the loudspeaker were screwed to the base plate and everything was mounted with the sill panels.
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