Mark, The Master Modeller

Stage 11 is the rocker covers The left cap goes in easily. So does the right cap. These are screwed to the manifolds. Then the plug lead clips are added. These were a little tricky. One side of the rocker cover needed a knife blade to open the slot. The other side was fine. They needed a firm press to seat them properly. I found that pressing down with a pair of tweezers in the middle two slots let me apply a firm pressure without damaging the parts, which are quite delicate. The finished stage looks like this.

On to stages 9 & 10 which are the exhaust manifolds Stage 9 is the left side. Push the first pipe into the hole in the head. Everything is numbered, and the instructions give you the right order in which to do it. The only thing to add really is if the pipes are difficult to get to go all the way in, scrape the chrome plating off the peg. This is the stage completed. Stage 10 is the right hand side. Which looks like this when completed.

Stage 8 gives us the water pump pulley, crank pulley, timing belt cover and the belt. The two pulleys go together easily enough. The water pump pulley is screwed in from the back. Then the timing belt cover goes on. Now fit the crankshaft pulley. Finally, the belt goes on. This completes stage 8.

I've received pack 2 now, which is progressing with the engine. Stage 7 gives us the parts to the alternator. The first parts screw together easily. Then the mounting arms are fitted. Leave these slightly loose. Swing them round so they meet up, thus. Then screw onto the water pump assembly. That completes stage 7

Thanks, and thanks also for re-uploading all the images 😃

This pics aren't showing up for some reason, but you can view the same diary on my forum with the pics showing correctly. http://www.partworkmodels.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=202&t=9159&start=40

Stage 6 completes the other exhaust. Assembly is the same as the previous exhaust. However, these pipes have small flats on them. The flats face each other when correctly aligned. This is the completed exhaust. This completes the stage and pack 1. I can't wait for pack 2!

Stage 5 gives us the oil filter and the other silencer. As before, the exhaust parts just push together The oil filter and housing all go together nicely. This screws onto the engine front spacer and plate. This completes this stage.

Stage 4 gives us engine and exhaust. I rolled the air filter grill round a wooden spoon handle. This gives a nice smooth curl that drops straight into the housing. It drops in like this. The housing top goes on nicely. Lovely chrome finish! Followed by the carb top. Then the bottom of the carb. Which then goes into the carb housing. I may add the fuel lines later if I can work out where they go. This gets screwed onto the head. That's all the work on the engine for now. Moving on to the exhaust. We start by pushing the 4 into 1 collector onto the silencer. This has the pipe numbers moulded in, to make assembly idiot proof. The pipes have numbers moulded into them too! They push in and are quite stiff. Don't try twisting the pipes in the holes as you'll almost certainly break off the pin. As the instructions say, pull them out and reinsert them in the correct alignment. All 4 in place, and the manifold end looks like this. Finally, add the exhaust plate. This is also numbered! Bolt heads go toward the silencer. This completes this stage.

stage 71. The right engine block, exhaust manifold and the light switch. Start off with fitting the gas filter (fuel filter!) Moving on to the light switch, this goes in the back of the dash. It's secured in place with a bracket. This one is a bit fiddly to get in place, or perhaps I was just being ham fisted!! Back to the engine now. Take exhaust manifold R1, and fit it in the holes marked R1 in the pipe connector. It's got a flat on the peg, so only goes one way round. Repeat for the remaining manifold pipes Stager 72. The left black, exhaust manifold, gearbox top and rad support. Assembling the exhaust manifold is the same process as before. Slot the engine front in place. Slot the gearbox cover in place. Now put the right hand side of the block in place, and screw it together. Helpful hint! Put some lubrication in the screw holes before pushing the two halves of the block together. The exhaust manifolds are now clipped in place. Clip the radiator onto its mounting bracket. Stage 73. The bottom of the engine block and some more details. Firstly, add the head assembly. This was a bit tight, but scraping the paint off the holes in the block made it easier to fit. Also, make sure the small pipe in the engine front is still fully located. Now our engine is really looking the part!! Add the engine bottom. Add the oil filler pipe and cap. Followed by the pressure probe. Now add the connection pipe. I guess this is an oil pipe. This is the front connection. This is the rear connection. Moving on to the radiator, push the two parts of the additional radiator together (I think this is an oil cooler). Screw the etched cover in place with 4 small silver screws. This just pushes onto the radiator bracket. This completes the pack. Ok, I couldn't resist putting there engine and radiator together!!

Now on to some of the details with stage 69. The support bracket is screwed in place. Then this little tube is fitted. This has a flat on the peg so only goes one way round. I don't know what this is for. Oil to the head perhaps? Now we add wha they call a pressure pump to its mounting bracket. I think this is the water pump, but not completely sure. Then the bracket is added to the front of the engine block. Stage 70. The alternator, water hose and pulleys. First off, assemble to alternator. This just clips together. Then assemble the two halves of the hose. Again, these just clip together. Add the alternator tot he front of the engine. [/img][/url] Now push the pulley assembly on. This was a bit stiff. With hind sight, it may have gone easier if I'd scraped the paint of the pegs, but it did go ok with a firm press. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the brackets. Now add the fan and screw it in from the back of the engine front. Make sure you can turn it with gentle pressure. There are 4 little holes that will need to be lined up with 4 pegs on the bracket already fitted to the radiator in stage 65. Now push the water hose onto the radiator. This has a flat on the peg to align it properly.

Stage 68. The carbs and cylinder heads. We start by fitting the air filter grill to the housing. I found you get a nice smooth curve by rolling it round a wooden spoon handle. Then it drops in the housing nicely. Our the top on and screw it in place. Now screws the carbs in place. Screw the head in place. A spot of lubricant on the screws definitely helps here. And the rocker covers complete the stage. These are labelled L & R, as is the head, so no excuses for getting them the wrong way round.

I'm on to pack 9 now. This is mostly the engine. Stage 65. The start of the radiator Start by dropping the etched grill on the radiator rear. It only goes one way round- check the the centre screw hole lines up. Add the fan bracket and screw it in place. There is a notch which you need to line up to make sure it's properly orientated. Stage 66. The fan and shroud. Screw the shroud to the radiator. Make sure that it's the right way round. The fan bracket must be centred in the fan shroud, or the fan won't fit. Stage 67. The front of the radiator. Fit the cap and screw it in from the bottom. Fit the rad top to the rad rear. The lugs are offset, so this only fits one way round. The lugs are slightly different sizes to make sure it goes the right way round. Don't push this on too hard or it's tricky to get the rad front fitted. Add the rad front. Make sure the mounting lugs go to the bottom. This just clicks into place. Screw the etched grill in place with 2 tiny black screws. This completes the radiator for now

Stage 3. steering wheel and exhaust, etc. Push the emblem onto the steering wheel! That was easy!! We don't do anything with the seat yet, but it's nicely made of real leather! The two parts of the exhaust push together. This completes the stage.

Stage 2, the front left wheel Nice printing on the tyre! First off, drop the tyre in boiling water and leave it to stew while I assemble the wheel Assembling the hub is straight forward. 4 screw for the first parts. Another 4 screws secures the inside rim. The finished rim looks like this. Then wrestle the tyre in place. Now push the chrome trim into the knock-on. It's a friction fit. Push the brake disc onto the hub. Screw the brake calliper in place with a small screw. Be careful not to strip the hole, it's a delicate thread. Push the hub assembly into the wheel. Then screw the wheel in place from the front. Finally, drop the knock-on in place. There is a magnet in the back which holds it in place. I found that the magnet fell out if I pulled the knock-on off. However, easily rectified with a spot of glue. This completes stage 2!

OK, I'm just started, and loving this kit so far!! One of the best looking cars ever built. Let's leap in with Pack one, stage 1. Here's the contents of the first stage. The bonnet! Well, what else? (and I get another of their nice screwdrivers!) Let's take a closer look at a couple of parts first. The badge is beautifully rendered, The bonnet has a flawless finish, and the metallic blue is to die for! The scoop just drops into place. Am I getting carried away? Sorry..... We start the assembly by adding a couple of black sponge strips for the bonnet to rest on. Then add the scoop. This is screwed in from the bottom. Rest the bonnet on the polishing cloth to stop it getting scratched. You really don't want scratches in this!!The more observant may have noticed the rivets cast into the bonnet to represent the rivets that would hold the scoop on the real car. Yes, they are individually picked out in silver! Put the bonnet catch through the hole. Add the catch plate. Then the spring. Put the spring resining washer on the screw, and screw it in place. Be careful not to strip these - the thread is quite fragile. Rinse and repeat to fit the second catch. Now I thought that the catches should be pointing backwards with the bonnet latched, but they are pointing outwards on this kit. I've seen pictures on the web of them both ways, and a friend who has an original 1966 Cobra says his point backwards. I may change mine, not sure yet. This completes stage 1.

The Model Factory Hiro models are a completely different beast. They are 1/12 as opposed to 1/8. They are predominantly white metal with a resin body. They are very very detailed kits. However, they are not pre-finished, and they need a lot of skill and modelling experience to produce a good model. They are not easy builds by any stretch of the imagination, whereas the Agora models are pre-finished and mainly screw together. An Agora model will take you, guessing 50 hours to complete. You could easily spend 500 hours making an MFH kit. Here's my build diary of an MHF Brough Superior, 1/9 bike kit, which will give you an idea of what's involved. The bikes are easier than the cars! http://www.partworkmodels.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=7312&hilit=brough

Stage 64. Fitting the truck panels and spare wheel. These are the parts we get. Start off by slipping the three parts of the truck together. Then clip them in place. Don't screw them in yet. Screw the jack to the spare wheel. You could improve the jack with a bit of painting to pick out the screw thread, but I decided not to as you can't see it! Add the spare wheel lock, it just pushes in. Now push the spare in place in the holes in the truck. I found this was much easier if the right hand trunk panel was completely removed. The truck panel is refitted very easily after the spare wheel is in place. This completes this pack.

Stage 62, the trunk panel. Nothing to do with this yet, but this is the part. Moving swiftly on..... Stage 63, the spare wheel, and we assemble the cockpit to the chassis. This is the spare wheel assembled. Ok, confession time! It's not the spare wheel. It's a photo of one of the road wheels...I forgot to take of photo of the spare! The difference is the spare wheel doesn't have the studs. Anyway, I'm glad that the tyres wrestling matches are over. Moving on to the cockpit, firstly put the steering column assembly into the cockpit. It will stick out like this. Note the way the wire comes out. Screwing the column in place is a bit tricky. Start by making sure the screw hole is lined up perfectly. Put the column connect over the screw, then screw it into place. It should end up looking like this. Put the cockpit in place. Make sure that the wires aren't trapped underneath! The steering pinion must fit like this. Add the retainer. It just pushes in. Now make sure the screw holes are all lines up properly and screw the cockpit to the chassis. I found this was a bit reluctant. The post of the screws slot fit into round sockets in the chassis, and it's a very positive location. Make sure they are properly seated before trying to put the screws in. The back ones went in quite easily, but it took a fair bit of persuasion to get the front ones in. It's easier to put the front ones in first, then click in the back ones. Get them all in before adding the screws. When done, it looks like this (bonus points if you spotted this is the same photo as earlier! LO!!) Make sure the wires for the pedals come out the side like this. This completes this stage. Give yourself a pat on the back, the car is looking really good now!

Stage 61, the steering wheel. This one is a little tricky to assemble at times. This is what we get. The first job is the hammer the pinion onto the shaft. This needs to go all the way down, or the cockpit tub won't fit onto the chassis properly. Go on, ask me how I know..... If you can see any hint of the flat on the shaft, you need to give it another tap or two. The shaft seems pretty strong, but keep it completely vertical, and give it firm taps, but you're not trying to ring the bell at the fairground game! Several medium taps is much safer than a few hard hits. The push button goes on the column cover like this, and you'll need to bend the wires to get it to fit. Again, be firm, but not violent. This photo is from a little later in the assembly, but it shows the switch position well. Now insert the shaft and feed the wire down the side of the side of the cover. Note that it goes outside the screw lug. Add the other half of the cover, and screw it all up. Again, be careful not to trap the wire, and make sure the switch is properly seated. Add the steering wheel. It just pushes on. (Excuse the Tardis pencil holder. It was all I could find to hold the column to take a decent photo. 3D printers are great though!) Then push the horn push on. Again, it just clips in. You can also put the horn push on the steering wheel and then add the two parts. That's actually slightly easier. Now check that you can feel the click of the button as you push the horn push. If not, pull the steering wheel off and reseat the parts. You seem to have to get it 'just right' for it to work reliably. This completes the stage.

Stage 60, the exhaust system This is what we get The first job is to remove the rear floor pan. Then wiggle the exhaust system into place, and screw it in place with a total of 6 screws. The exhaust went in OK, but it was a bit fiddly getting all the screw holes lined up. Tip. Get all the screws in loosely before tightening any of them. It's an old engineering trick. It allows the parts to move a bit making it easier to get the last couple of screws in. Then put the floor pan back. You also need to ensure all the other floor pan screws are tight as well. Now fit the 3 parts of the exhaust system together. Now clip the resonators into the rear assembly, then screw them in place from the top of the model. Now finish the assembly by screwing the front pipes to the floor panel. Tis completes the stage, and the exhaust system for now.

I've got Pack 8 now. Stage 56. Rear shock and brake This is what we get First off, assemble the shock cylinder to the mounting bracket with the pin. This one goes very easily. It just took a light squeeze with a pair of pliers. Remove the spring plate. (On the other side I discovered you can actually tithe shock quite easily without removing the plate) Fit the shock cylinder assembly. Note that this only goes one way round. It's obviously wrong if you get it wrong. However, it's impossible to photo as it's buried too deep and too dark. Fit the shock piston. Put it all back together. Job done! You can test fit the brake drum, but there's little point as it's all loose and floppy at this stage. This completes the stage. Stage 57, left rear wheel. Another tyre wrestling session. Pop the brake drum in place.... ...and fit the wheel. This is much easier to screw in place than the front wheels were, as the axle is plastic, not metal. Three wheels on my wagon! Stage 58, right rear suspension and brake. Similar parts to stage 56. I did this side without removing the plate. It goes easily. Stage 59, the penultimate tyre wresting match!! Then fit the wheel. Hurray!! Now we have all four wheels fitted.

Stage 55 The front right wheel This assembly is the same as stage 52, so I won't repeat myself. After all, we can all copy and paste! LOL!! This is the completed stage. Lay the wheels and steering rack as they are fitted to ensure you get them the right way round. It's also worth rethreading the screw holes, using some Vaseline to make assembly easier. Screw the steering arms to the tie rods. Here's a close up of the left wheel. and the right wheel. Then the hubs are secured to the upper and lower suspension arms. When positioning the steering rack and tie rods, make sure the rack and pitman arm are correctly fitted. You can refer back to stage 29 for more details. This is the upper suspension arm. The front wheels and suspension should now look like this. The model looks like this at the end of pack 7.

Stage 54, silencer and exhaust pipes. This assembly is a little tricky. Firstly, loosely assemble the silencer. It need to be loose enough sot he can fiddle the pipes in the holes. Then fit the right intermediate pipe and straight pipe in the right holes, and tighten the right screw. Now insert the left pipes and tighen the left screw in the silencer. Now take the mufflers and scrape the chrome off the pegs.... ....and superglue them in place. Removing the chrome plating serves 2 purposes. It gives you a stronger glued joint (chrome plating doesn't take glue very well at all) and also helps the mufflers fit better. This completes the stage.

On to the wheels next with stage 52 and the front left wheel. The first wheel is wrestled onto the tyre! The instructions are pretty good with the process. Boiling water, then let the tyre soak for a few minutes. Pick them up with tweezers. Dry the excess water off with a tissue, and then work the tyre onto the wheel. Be careful not to catch the tyre valve. It looks quite delicate. Untitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr The hub goes on to the brake disc cover. Put the brake disc in place. Then the disc is held in place with the caliper. This is secured with an MD04 screw. This didn't seem to hold very securely, so I reinforced it with a drop of superglue around the screw head. This wicked into the assembly and it all seemed a lot more rigid. Untitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr I pre-threaded the hub with the MD02 screw, with some Vaseline applied. This makes it much easier to fit the wheel. It's difficult to fully thread the screw with the wheel in place. The fitted wheel from the back.... ....and from the front. The decorative centre is pushed in place, although not too firmly in case I want to remove the wheels again. This completes the stage. Stage 53 is the front right wheel and tyre.