Mark, The Master Modeller

Stage 84, the air scoops The first one goes behind the door. The second goes up a bit higher. The other side is the same of course.

I've got pack 11 now, and it's huge!!!! Here's the box!! Here's the part for stage 83. Not much to do with the stage (but that soon changes! There is a lot of work in this pack!) Just screw the fenders to the body. I've used a couple of microfibre cloths to protect the body from scratches, but anything like a towel will do. This completes this stage.

This is the semi-competition version, and (I think) street legal. Hence the horns were fitted.

Stage 22, the front right wheel Goes together like this. Stage 23 gives us the rest of the wheel. The wheel is completed like this. Then we wrestle the tyre into place!! And I couldn't resist placing the engine on the chassis. It's easy to see how this car is such a beast!! I'm looking forward to the next pack now!

Stage 21, the last of the chassis for now. First fit the rear chassis part. 4 screws so it's well held. I guess this will take a substantial weight! Now add the wishbone mounting. Another 4 screws, so these parts are definitely structural. This completes the chassis for now. I do like the way they have scheduled the packs so we complete the engine then move on to the chassis. It's much better than jumping around doing a bit of this then a bit of that and having a large collection of half finished components sitting in a box!

Stage 20, Still more chassis. This stage is a bit more involved. First off, fit the chassis member to the suspension support. Now screw this sub-assembly to the lower half of the chassis that we previously assembled. Add cross member No 3. Then cross member No 4. The completed chassis should look like this.

Stage 19. More chassis!!! Not much to do in this stage, just screw the suspension support to the chassis member.

On to stage 18. More chassis and the horns. First off, add the top to cross member No 4. Now add the horns to the front suspension support. They just push on. This completes this stage.

Stage 17 gives us the right chassis. First fit the 2nd cross member Here's a close-up showing the correct orientation. Then the 1st cross member. Now add the other chassis rail, and we're done with this stage.

I'm cracking on with pack 3 now, which is mainly the chassis. Stage 16. Left hand chassis We start by adding the 4th cross member. This goes in easily, and the parts are all identified with moulded in numbers. Then add the 3rd cross member and this completes the stage.

Yeah, it was a bit of a game. All stays in place once it's in though.

Stage 80. The front left fender. We don't do anything with this at the moment, other than admire it. But to be fair, it's an impressively heavy and well finished part that is worth admiring. Stage 81. The chassis front panel. First, fit the two hood supports. (Trans. bonnet hinge brackets!) https://flic.kr/p/2k6Gb3L][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50603891896_e01c572179_c.jpg[/img][/url] Now fit the front left fender to the front panel. A drop of lubricant in the holes makes it easier to drive the screws home. This completes the stage. Stage 82. The right fender. This screws into the front plate just like the left fender. It looks like it is going to be a bit flimsy, but it's actually very solid for a heavy assembly. This completes the pack, but who could resist putting the fenders on the chassis!!

Stage 79, the electronic gubbins The first thing to do is to fit the windscreen washer reservoir. This just pushes on. Next we plug the 9 cables into the circuit board. These only go one way round, so don't force them. This screws under the left hand wing. Then lead the cables through the clip like so. It's far easier to push them behind the clip one at a time than in one great bundle. Now plug in the cables numbered 1 to 5. Again, they only go one way round. Note that cable 5 is the one going to the battery at the front right of the car. This comes down the right hand panel, then is clipped in the slot in the rear engine panel. This completes this stage.

Stage 78, battery, strut and oil filter. First off, fit the handle to the battery. Now push the battery over the mounting. I was thinking about fitting battery cables, but the battery needs to be removable to replace the actual batteries for the lights and sound, to I decided not to. Now push the strut bar in place. This is a strut that stiffens up the chassis and improves the car's handling. Now assemble the oil filter. This was a bit fiddly, but the instructions cover everything. Fit the thinner oil pipe to the filter. Follow the instructions for the various pipes, and you should end up with your model licking like this. A couple of points. All the pipes needed their length adjusting slightly to get them to look right. The thinner pipe was very reluctant to go on the peg in the oil pump. I swelled the pipe by shoving a cocktail stick down the end. Then superglued it in place. The oil cooler looks like this. This completes the stage.

Stage 77, the left hand side panel, shock and speaker. Fit the shock piston as before. Then fit the speaker and shock cylinder. Now fit th is to the car, again, same procedure as for the right panel. Again, watch to make sure you don't trap any cables. This completes the stage.

Stage 76, Engine centre panel and the brake master cylinder/reservoir. Firstly, push the brake reservoir onto the support. Now fix this onto the centre panel. Now clip this in place, and fix it to the side panel with two screws. Make sure all the electrical tonne actors and cables are coming out the left side of the car like this. This completes the stage.

Sure is!

Stage 75 Front right shock and side panel. Firstly, fit the shock piston with the pin. This pushed in nice and easily. Now fit the shock cylinder to the side panel. Now screw the side panels to the radiator, making sure that the battery leads lead out like this. Add the spring and hold it with a bit of masking tape. That makes life so much easier...... Now make sure that the dimples in the fan are pointing up/down/left/right. There are small pins int he bracket in the rad that they fit into. Now fit the side panel in place. Make sure you engage the shock absorber piston, or you have to take the darn thing out again.... (go on, ask me !!) As the instructions suggest, it's far easier to remove the rad hose and then refit it when you're done. This completes stage 75.

Now I'm on to pack 10 where we finish the engine, add the front shocks, and prepare the front wings (Ok, fenders if you speak American) Stage 74 Sump, distributor and plug leads Start by assembling the coil. Easy, and it only goes one way thanks to a flat on the location pin. This just pushes onto the engine. On to the breather connection. Clear out any flash or excess plating otherwise this part is quite difficult to fit. Now push the breather connection in place. If you over-did the hoel cleaning, just use a tiny drop of super glue to hold it. Now push the distributor in place. Now on to the plug leads. As their expert says, glue the lead connectors on to the plug leads. I preferred to do the leads one by one so I didn't get the lengths mixed up. Fit the lead to the distributor. Then push the lead into the hole in the head. The left side of the engine completed. The completed distributor. The right hand side of the engine. Now add the sump. Now the engine is fitted in the chassis. Get the two exhaust pipes connected first, then the engine is held by screws that go into the bell housing. It seems odd fixing the engine this way (to me at least!) but it's held securely and the screws are inconspicuous on the finished model. This completes stage 74.

Stage 15 is the last stage of this pack. Adding the sump and ignition. First we screw the protective pan to the sump, then screw two shouldered screws into the sump. As before, we may need to adjust these when we fit the sump. Now take the head assembly and add two more screws. Slot in the fluid tank bracket left over from stage 13. Now fit the timing belt/water pump/alternator assembly and screw it in place. Now try the sump in place and adjust the screws if necessary. Now try the head and adjust the screws if necessary. I found the rear screw was a little loose, but the head head firmly, so I didn't worry about it. Now screw the two halves of the block together. This completes the main engine assembly. The spark plugs are bet cut froth sprue, not twisted off. They push in, and are a little loose, but don't come out again. They are all securely fixed when the plug leads are fitted, so it's not a problem. Now cut the leads to length. It's best to do these one at a time to save getting them mixed up. It's also a smart move to cut them a couple of millimetres over length, and make sure you don't stretch them. You can always trim them to the exact length when you fit them. Now fit the connector. Again, these are best cut from the sprue, not twisted off. Now fit the plug lead in place. This is the distributor end. This connector peg is D shaped to make sure it goes in with the lead pointing in the right direction. Then the plug, and finally in the lead clip. Now follow the instructions to complete the stage. I found the leads tended to jump out of the distributor, but once they were all in, they all held firmly. You could glue them in place, but you need to be really careful as you've have problems fitting them all if you glue them in the wrong order. This completes the pack, and the majority of the engine. I'm loving this build. The engine is nicely detailed and I'm really looking forward to the next pack.

Stage 15 is the last stage of this pack. Adding the sump and ignition. First we screw the protective pan to the sump, then screw two shouldered screws into the sump. As before, we may need to adjust these when we fit the sump. Now take the head assembly and add two more screws. Slot in the fluid tank bracket left over from stage 13. Now fit the timing belt/water pump/alternator assembly and screw it in place. Now try the sump in place and adjust the screws if necessary. Now try the head and adjust the screws if necessary. I found the rear screw was a little loose, but the head head firmly, so I didn't worry about it. Now screw the two halves of the block together. This completes the main engine assembly. The spark plugs are bet cut froth sprue, not twisted off. They push in, and are a little loose, but don't come out again. They are all securely fixed when the plug leads are fitted, so it's not a problem. Now cut the leads to length. It's best to do these one at a time to save getting them mixed up. It's also a smart move to cut them a couple of millimetres over length, and make sure you don't stretch them. Now fit the connector. Again, these are best cut from the sprue, not twisted off. Now fit the plug lead in place. This is the distributor end. This connector peg is D shaped to make sure it goes in with the lead pointing in the right direction. Then the plug, and finally in the lead clip. Now follow the instructions to complete the stage. I found the leads tended to jump out of the distributor, but once they were all in, they all held firmly. You could glue them in place, but you need to be really careful as you've have problems fitting them all if you glue them in the wrong order. This completes the pack, and the majority of the engine. I'm loving this build. The engine is nicely detailed and I'm really looking forward to the next pack.

Stage 15 is the last stage of this pack. Adding the sump and ignition. First we screw the protective pan to the sump, then screw two shouldered screws into the sump. As before, we may need to adjust these when we fit the sump. Now take the head assembly and add two more screws. Slot in the fluid tank bracket left over from stage 13. Now fit the timing belt/water pump/alternator assembly and screw it in place. Now try the sump in place and adjust the screws if necessary. Now try the head and adjust the screws if necessary. I found the rear screw was a little loose, but the head head firmly, so I didn't worry about it. Now screw the two halves of the block together. This completes the main engine assembly. The spark plugs are bet cut froth sprue, not twisted off. They push in, and are a little loose, but don't come out again. They are all securely fixed when the plug leads are fitted, so it's not a problem. Now cut the leads to length. It's best to do these one at a time to save getting them mixed up. It's also a smart move to cut them a couple of millimetres over length, and make sure you don't stretch them. Now fit the connector. Again, these are best cut from the sprue, not twisted off. Now fit the plug lead in place. This is the distributor end. This connector peg is D shaped to make sure it goes in with the lead pointing in the right direction. Then the plug, and finally in the lead clip. Now follow the instructions to complete the stage. I found the leads tended to jump out of the distributor, but once they were all in, they all held firmly. You could glue them in place, but you need to be really careful as you've have problems fitting them all if you glue them in the wrong order. This completes the pack, and the majority of the engine. I'm loving this build. The engine is nicely detailed and I'm really looking forward the rest of the build.

Stage 14, the gearbox. First off, screw two screws into the inspection plate. Drive these home, but don't over tighten them. We may need to adjust them a little when we fit the plate. Now fit the bell housing. The first half is screwed to the block, then the second half is screwed to the first half. This is the end result. Add the first half of the gearbox. Now slide the inspection plate in place. This should be a slop-free sliding fit. Tighten or loosen the two screws if you need to. Now add the second half of the gearbox. Attach the first two gearbox rods. Mine seemed to pull off a little easier than I'd have liked, so I glued them in place with superglue. Just the tiniest drop applied in the hole with a cocktail stick. Expert Tip: Apply the glue to the hole, not the peg. It's easier to get a neat join with no glue oozing out round the fixing point. Add the bracket and the last rod. This completes stage 14.

Stage 13, the main block. All we do in this stage is screw the heads to the blocks. The parts are marked L & R, but they only go one way anyway.

Stage 12. Coil, distributor, etc. The distributor and full filter go on the head and are screwed in from underneath. The coil and cover cap just push into place. This completes the stage.