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Mark, The Master Modeller

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Everything posted by Mark, The Master Modeller

  1. Stage 4 gives us some of the turret armour and the start of the tracks. The armour screws on nice and easily. Confession time - I haven't started the tracks yet. Stage 5 gives us more of the armour. The handrails are fitted first. This have shaped pins and only go on one way. Don't over-tighten them as that will put a twist in the hand rails. The two parts are joined by a hinge. This is easy enough, if a little fiddly. Note that this is fitted to the armour with 3 pegs (the outer pegs) and secured with 2 screws, which go in the middle two posts. Push the armour in place. I found that the three pegs were very tight and I needed to scrap the paint off them to get the armour to sit properly. Make sure it's fully home before tightening the screws, or you'll just strip the screws! (Ask me how I know!!) Stage 5 gives us the right hand side armour, track links and a gun! This armour fits easily. This vision port (or ranging device? Not sure...) clips in place. Tracks are being left for Ron! (Later Ron - groan... sorry.....) Stage 7 is a repeat of stage 5. Stage 8 gives us the rear of the turret. (and more track links) This just screws in place. This completes pack 1. I'm impressed so far!
  2. Pack 3 gives us the turret! It's big and heavy! The commander's hatch is screwed in place (I hadn't thought about removing the spring yet! That only came to me while I was writing this diary!) Then the hatch from stage 1 goes in, fixed with a single screw on the hinge base, so it can be raised of course. Followed by the ring around it (no idea what this is for or what it's called!!) In its raised position. Finally for this stage, the periscope from stage 1. This is screwed in, but was a tight fit. This completes stage 3.
  3. EDIT: I started this dairy before I started doing the official build dairies for Agora. Therefore the format is not quite the same as the rest of the official build dairies. I decided I'd build this one as I haven't done a partwork tank before, and this looks like a rather splendid and well featured model. I've got pack one, so let's get cracking! The instructions are purely graphic, which makes them clear and easy to follow. However, we will miss out on the useful insights from their expert. You can download the instructions from the download centre if you want to see them. Anybody can download them. https://www.agoramodels.com/download-centre-uk/#six Stage one gives us the barrel, a hatch and a periscope. The barrel is nicely painted. The colours look about right to my untrained eye, and the feathering is very even. Not much to do in this pack though, we just put the 'glass' in the periscope. Here is the hatch we get. Sorry about the dust on it. I didn't notice it when I took the picture. Stage 2 gives us another section barrel and another hatch. The base of the barrel screws on, and the camo pattern lines up perfectly!! A vision port goes into a hatch surround. This just clips in, but only goes in one way. This hatch surround is screwed on to its base. https://flic.kr/p/2mbnnQP][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51313163691_35b5fb55f3_c.jpg[/img][/url] Then the periscopes just click in to the mount. Looking good, everything fits nicely. This hatch is held in place with a spring and rises vertically. Personally, I think the spring is a tad too strong as the hatch is a little difficult to lift, and pulls off centre a little. No big issue, but there a very easy improvement. Just leave the spring out. The hatch is then much easier to lift up, and it sits centrally in the aperture. From the top you can see how the hatch is pulled slightly, but the spring. It sits centrally if you omit the spring. The screw head still stops the hatch falling out. This completes stage 2
  4. Stage 79 gives us the radiator and oil cooler The front photo-etch grill screws in place. The screws are tiny! And fiddly!! The rear of the oil cooler is just dropped in place. Then the tabs on the front are bent over, the front dropped in place, and the tabs bent the secure it all. Stage 80 continues with the radiator. The back is screwed in place. Then the etched grill is screwed in place. More fiddly screws!! Stage 81 is the radiator fans and oil cooler mounting bracket. The oil cooler clips in place, and that's it for now. Stage 82 is the radiator mounting bracket. The fans screw into place. Then the oil cooler assembly clips into place. And that's it for this pack. No gratuitous shot of the overall model as we need the body to fit these parts. Hopefully that will come in the next stage.
  5. On with pack 10. Start with stage 74 which is the passenger door hinge and catch Assembly is exactly the same as the driver's door back in stage 72. Here's the finished assembly. Stage 75 gives us the windscreen frame. Nothing to do with this just yet. Stage 76 gives us the left sun shade and wind deflector. You have to prise open the brackets, fit them on the frame, and then squeeze them shut. It works well as the metal is soft and doesn't spring. Stage 77 is the right shade and deflector. Rinse and repeat! Stage 78 is the wind screen This just clips in.
  6. Personally, I'd like to see something a little different. Perhaps something like the Amati Ferrari Arno or the Italian Runabout. https://store.amatimodel.com/en/models-amati-classic/product-ferrari-arno-xi-special-edition-kit-b1610.html https://store.amatimodel.com/en/models-amati-classic/product-italian-runabout-b1608.html
  7. Stage 71 The Door, well, one of them anyway. Screw the door card in place. Then push the rivets in the top. I used the end of a paint brush handle to avoid damaging anything. Some of them needed a fairly good shove! Stage 72 the door hinge and catch. Firstly, that spring is really tiny! Don't feed it to the carpet monster! The carpet monster loves tiny springs! His favourite food!!!! Push the print on to the handle. Then fit the handle and hinge to the door. Don't over tighten the OP15 screw. Stage 73 The right door. This is simply a repeat of stage 71. That completes this stage. No gratuitous overall shot this time as there's no easy way of putting this packs parts in place until we get the bodywork.
  8. Stage 69 The trunk lid. These parts are easily fitted. Stage 70 The license plate and hinges. Hinges fit thus. And the license plate goes here.
  9. Stage 67 the steering shaft. First, take the advice from the expert and rethread the screw hole for the cam caver in this bracket. I hadn't done it in this photo, but it's really good advice! Then screw the bracket to the chassis. Fiddle the shaft into position. It's not too difficult with tweezers. Then fit the cover (sorry, I forgot to take that photo.) Stage 68 The setting rack and column. Tap the steering wheel onto the steering column. I used a small block of wood so I could tappy tap tap right on the centre of the steering wheel without damaging it. Then it just drops into the firewall. Then add the steering rack with the springs.
  10. Stage 66 more firewall details. Add the pipes to the oil vapour canister. Then fit it to the firewall. Add the air intake pipe.
  11. On the Pack 9. Stage 65 the drivers seatbelt brackets and roll cage. Find the roll bar from pack 1 and attach the seatbelt bracket and eye bolts. Clip in the seat belts, noting the orientation of the buckles. Add the roll bar section.
  12. Stage 61 The Firewall. Moving to the front of the car, we start with the firewall. Nothing to do but admire this part. Stage 62 The speaker Nothing too challenging with fitting the speaker! Stage 63 Gubbins for the firewall. Just follow the instructions to add the details. I found some of the cables were a little loose, but were easily secured with superglue. Just use a tiny drop. Stage 64 continues with the firewall details. Again, just follow the instructions, adding tiny drops of superglue where it's needed to hold cables. This completes this pack, but here's the gratuitous overall shot of the model with the new parts put in place
  13. Stage 60 Rear fender part Feed the cables through the rear fender, paint attention to the cable numbers. Screw the tank and truck assembly to the rear fender Then add the cable clip.
  14. Stage 59 Fuel pumps, etc. The fuel pumps are pushed into the trunk bulkhead. The first pipes go on next. I ended up using a drop of superglue applied from underneath to secure the front ends of the pipes, where the go into the trunk floor. Then the other two pipes are fitted. If you look carefully you can see where one of the pipes has pulled out fo the floor, hence the need for superglue. Finally the trunk lid support is fitted.
  15. I'm a bit late uploading these packs. Life got in the way! Anyway, on to Pack 8. Stage 57 The fuel tank Take the trunk board assembly with wires, and arrange them like this. Screw on the fuel tank, and you should have something like this. Stage 58. The rear trunk. Fit the two parts together. Add the fuel tank, and you end up with something like this.
  16. Thanks John, I'm really pleased with the way this is coming on. I looked at the seatbelt hooks and thought they were going to be trouble, but mine went in with no problem at all. Glad Agora CS got you sorted quickly! I'm looking forward to the next pack now!
  17. Stage 55 is the lower trunk board and fuel filler pipe. I assume this translates to boot floor! LOL!! Two parts, one screw, easy!! Stage 56 is the circuit board and cables. Plug the cables in following the instructions and numbers. Then screw the circuit board to the panel. That completes this pack! Here's the gratuitous "The car looks like this" shot!!
  18. Stage 52, another seat. Stage 53 the seat cushion. Stage 54 the seat cover and belts. Firstly, the seat belt hooks go in like this. Now we assemble the seat, which is a repeat of the driver's seat. The only difference between the two seats is the orientation of the lap belts. Add the shoulder straps. Tweezers are your friend here!! Add the seats, and we're done with this stage.
  19. Stage 51. The batteries The batteries and bracket are screwed on - easy stuff! Fitting the cables into the cut-off switch was a bit fiddly. A tiny drop of superglue makes life easier. That is screwed to the rear bulkhead. Now add the cables. Again, superglue is your friend. Finally, the kill switch is added. I thought kill switches were usually red. I may paint this in due course. Does anybody have inf info about this particular car?
  20. I'm building pack 7 now. Stage 49 gives us a seat. Nothing to do until the next stage. Stage 50 is the seat cover and belts. First, trim the tape and stick it to the sides of the seat. Be careful, this tape is one shot only! It's very sticky, and very thin! Now the seat cover is fitted. This needs a bit of pulling and shaping to get to fit properly, but it looks good when you get it right. Have some practice fits before you pull the tape backing paper off and stick it in place. Then the cushion goes in and is screwed in from underneath. Then the seat belts are pushed on under the seat. Make sure you get them the right way round! Mine pushed on firmly, but you could add a tiny drop of superglue if necessary. This completes the stage. Looks good!!
  21. Stage 48 gives us the battery box, switch, and some other twiddly bits. The main on/off switch goes under the transmission tunnel. A couple of pipes are added to the battery box. They call it a mounting box, but I'm not sure what it's function is on the real car. Perhaps it is the battery box? It fits thus. The cover slides on And we're done! I've taped the barrel cable to save it getting damaged.
  22. Stage 47 gives us the LOUD pedal, and some others...... The first thing I did was to cover the screw heads on the bottom of the floor pan with a bit of masking tape to stop them scratching my work surface. First the floor plate pushes on. The pedals are fitted and screwed in from behind. Fit the brake switch to its holder. This fits underneath the pedal. Repeat the exercise for the LOUD Pedal! As the instructions hint, I found that the switch was sticking when the pedal was pressed. I fixed this by removing the switch and pedal, filing out the hold a little, then refitting everything. That solved the problem. I've now got a lovely clicking action! Fit the cable clips and clip the brake cable in place.
  23. Stager 46. Let's have a bit of bling in the cockpit! Gear lever trim and gater. The U bar. I'm not quite sure what this was for. Perhaps to give passengers something to hold on to? The gear lever and hand brake are fitted. However, I've taken the hand brake off to save breaking it! It's very vulnerable!
  24. Stage 43, let's have some floor! Simply screwed together! The cable clip goes underneath. Stage 44, more floor! This also screws together easily. The floor mats are a push fit. A little trick to get to locate, but they do go once you get them in the right place and give them a push! Stage 45. The cockpit rear wall. Another part that screws on easily.
  25. Pack 6, and we are half way through! Stage 41, the dashboard A couple of plates go on the back. These are a push fit. The steering shaft guide is screwed in place. The knobs and switches have the tiniest details printed beautifully!! There are extras of the unprinted knobs to feed the carpet monster! Best use sprue cutters to remove these. Follow the instructions, and you end up with this. Note that the button for the lights is deliberately loose as it is used to switch the lights! Don't be tempted to glue it! Stage 42 continues with the dash. Apply the stickers carefully with tweezers. It's worth taking the time to make sure they are upright! All in place! Now add the lenses and the chrome trim. Fit the switch to the back cover, making sure it's seated properly. Then screw the back cover in place. Our completed dash looks like this!
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