Mark, The Master Modeller

Stage 40 gives us the fender liners and air intake panel. The finder liners screw in fairly easily. So does the air intake panel. This completes this pack! Here's the model as it looks at the moment.

Stage 39 is the front right suspension, and is a repeat of stage 38, so I won't repeat myself. This is the completed stage 39. Now you rapidly discover that every time you pick up the model, the front suspension flops down! Annoying or what! I've been reliably informed that it's much better behaved once the steering rack is fitted.

Stage 38 gives us the front left suspension. Firstly fit the shock cylinder with a pin. Now fit the shock piston and the connecting rod to the lower wishbone. Now the upper wishbone (control arm in American!) is fitted to the chassis. Make sure the shock goes under the wishbone. Excuse the cap, it's just there to make the photo a bit clearer. Now we can fit the lower wishbone assembly. Take the front wheel and fit it to the lower wishbone by sliding to over the connecting rod. Finally a pin is used to connect the upper wishbone. This completes this stage.

Stages 34 to 37 give us another 2 wheels. More tyre wrestling!!! Stage 34 parts Completed. Stage 35 parts The completed wheel. The completed wheel fitted to the model. Stages 36 & 37 are a repeat of 34 & 35. Here's the second wheel fitted to the model.

Stage 33 gives us the rear floor panel This fits easily with 8 screws. This completes this stage.

On with Pack 5, and stage 32. This is the rear right suspension The shock piston goes on the lower arm with a pin. The shock cylinder goes on the chassis, again with a pin. Now the lower arm is fitted with more pins. I have to say, I like these pin fittings. They are easy to go on, and they look much better than having a screwed sticking out! Then the previously assembled hub is attached. This completes the stage.

Stage 31 gives us the right rear wheel hub and brake. The assembly is the same as the previous one. The completed pack looks like this!

Stage 29 gives us some of the rear suspension. Firstly, put the prop shaft and if in place. They are loose at this stage, and the prop shaft falls out easily! Don't worry about it, it goes back easily later. Now fit the upper wishbones to their bracket. Be careful to get these parts the right way round. Screw the upper wishbone holder to the chassis. The prop shaft has fallen out, but don't worry. Fit the left hub upright to the upper wishbone with a pin. Still no need to worry about the prop shaft...... Stage 30 gives us the lower left wishbone and shock. Add the shock absorber cylinder with another pin. Fix the shock piston to the lower wishbone. Add the spring and the shock goes together like this. The lower wishbone is fixed to the chassis with two pins. Now is when you need to put the prop shaft back! (Yeah, I know, mine's still missing..... It will go in after the next step, but it's a bit of a fiddle!) The completed stage looks like this!

Stage 27 gives us the differential housing and drive shafts. Firstly, screw the inner drive shaft connectors to the diff housing. They are both the same, so it doesn't matter which way round they go. Now fit the drive shafts. These are fitted with a pin which pushes through fairly easily. It does matter which way round these go. Left and right are different, and the shafts must be fitted so they point slightly backwards. Now fit the left rear hub to the drive shaft with another pin. This completes this stage. Stage 28 gives us the top & rear diff housings and prop shaft. Firstly fit the rear housing. Now add the housing top. This completes the stage.

Stage 26 give us the rear left wheel hub and brake. The assembly is virtually the same as the front hub/brake, but we don't add the wheel yet.

Stage 25 gives us the floor panels Screw the first side in place. I taped the battery lead down to avoid it getting tangled. Add the second side. Now the engine is screwed in place. It's only held by two screws onto bell housing, but they hold it firmly. This completes this stage, and she is looking good!!

I've got pack 4 now. Stage 24 gives us the front right wheel hub & brake. First, push the chrome cap into the spinner. Now put the brake disc on the hub. Add the caliper. Add the wheel. Turn it over, screw the wheel on, then add the spinner. This completes this stage.

I'm so tempted to ask KMW if I can book a test drive 😂

Stage 100! The last stage!! The gives us the rear bumper and number plates. Fit the rear number plate to the rear valance Now fit the rear valance to the model. I left it upside down for this. Now add the rear bumper. This just pushes on. Moving to the front of the car, fit the front number plate. This completes the model! I think it looks stunning!! It is a big and heavy model!! I now proudly claim my AgoraElite badge 😀

Stage 99 gives us the rear valance Before we start with the parts supplied we have the major task of fitting the body. Firstly, I take the wires undertake front vent grill with some masking tape. This tames the wires somewhat! Now connect all the cables. First things first, put a drop of oil in the screw holes. This will make it much easier to drive the screws home. Holding the trunk open with a bit of masking tape makes life easier too. Now lower the body over the chassis. It's a bit tricky and needs a bit of fiddling to get it to sit properly. Make sure you get the cables tucked out of sight too. Once it's fully seated, now is a good time to insert some batteries and check the electrics all work. Now turn the model over and fit the screws. I actually couldn't get all of them in, but the body held fine with 6 out of the 8! The instructions suggest putting it on your lap to avoid damaging the antenna. However, I just placed it close to the edge of the table. Now glue the lenses to the rear fog lights. The instructions say they are a push fit, and mine did push fit, but seemed slightly loose. A spot of PVA gives them that little extra security. They are screwed not the rear valance. That's it for this stage.

Stage 97 gives us the head lining, but we attach the doors. I found the easy way to ensure that the door was properly aligned was to put the car upside down and hold the door in the closed position while tightening the screw. The door aligned perfectly, as did the other side! That's it for this stage. Stage 98 gives us the rear view mirror and sun shades The sun shades simply clip in like this. The rear view mirror clips together and is screwed in place. Then the head lining is pressed into place. Finally the antenna is screwed into place. This is metal and a lot stronger than it looks. It doesn't bend easily! That completes this stage

Stage 96 gives us the door trim and sill plates The trims just push in. So do the sill plates. This completes this stage

Stage 94 gives us the rear screen. Again, nothing to do with this yet. Stage 95 gives us the rear screen trim and antenna. Like the front screen, fit the glass first. Then the trim. Again, this took a bit of a push to go in. This completes this stage. The antenna is left until later.

On the home straight now, I've got the last pack!! Stage 91, you get the windscreen. Nothing to do yet! Stage 92 gives us the windscreen trim and wipers. I coloured the wiper blades black to represent the rubber. Simple use of a black Sharpie! The screen goes in easily enough. Then the trim is fitted. This needed a fairly firm push to get it to clip in. Be careful not to push on the screen itself. This completes this stage. The wipers are fitted later. Stage 93 gives us the upper vent grill. Fit the wipers. These have tabs in the pegs to make sure that they are in the correct parked position, but remember, don't let people try to move them!! This is screwed in from underneath. This completes the stage.

Stage 90 gives us the rear lights and fuel cap. First off, the fuel pipe bracket fits inside, and screws on from the outside. Now screw the filler cap to its base. And fit this in place. I love the quality of the logo on the cap! The rear light goes on from the outside of course. Then the LED circuit board goes on from the inside. I needed to ned the wires a little so it sat flat. The the cover is screwed in place. Be careful not to strip these screw holes. Then lay the wires in the grooves and secure with the clips. The completed stage looks like this. I couldn't resist placing the body on the chassis, of course!!! Wow, this looks good!! Big and impressive!! I can't wait for the last pack now!!!

Stage 89 is the lower rear body and trunk hinges The body part goes on easily. As do the hinges The hinges are retained by two brackets. Again, no dramas, and it all fits nicely. This completes this stage.

Sorry folks, I realised, I never got round to adding the last couple of stages to the diary. Stage 88 is the trunk lid. First, attached the latch to the inside of the lid. Then attach the emblem. And that's it for this stage.

Stage 87 is mainly the front lights and hood details. The horns go on the front panel. As does the light bracket. The hood pins go here. However, before fitting them, make sure the go through the holes in the hood easily, and that the lynch pins go through the holes easily. I had to clear them out with a small drill bit and pointed knife. I think the thickness of the plating had made the hole too small, or perhaps there was some flash there. It's much easier to do this before the hood pins are fitted. Now fit the left headlight LED. Then continue to fit the remaining headlights. It is a little fiddly to get the main beam cables trapped behind the cable clip, but goes OK in the end. The fog light lenses are glued in with a bit of white PVA. Just plain PVA wood glue is ideal as it dries clear. Gently bend the headlamp cables over a bit so they don't foul on the chassis front plate. Feed the cables through the holes. Now screw the front facia in place. The cable clips just push into place. Now on to the hood lanyards. Things get a bit fiddly now. First, bend the wire so that the lanyards don't fall out. Insert the pin plates, close the hood, then push the lynch pins through the hood pins. This is, to be perfectly honest, very fiddly. I found that I needed to trim some burrs off the hood pins to get the bonnet to close properly. This ends this stage

Stage 86 give us the hood hinges Firstly, screw the hinge bracket to the hood. Now assemble the hinges on to the brackets. Don't over-tighten these screws as everything needs to move smoothly. However, these shouldn't be any slop either. Fit this to the hood. Again, you're aiming for a nice sliding fit. Not too tight, not too loose. Add the spring and the screw that holds it in place. The other side is merely a repeat of the same. Now slide the hood into place and tighten the screws. Mine didn't line up properly, as you can see. There is a gap on the left and the hood overlaps the fender on the right (of the picture) This is easily resolved. Loosen the screws holding the fenders to the body and the front grill. Just half a turn should do. Then push the fenders to the hood lines up nicely, and re-tighten the screws. These are the screws that need loosening. It lines up nicely after adjustment. That completes this stage.

Stage 85 gives us the hood, front grill and lights. Firstly, fit the emblem to the grill. Make sure you get the grill the right way round. It isn't quite symmetrical. I found you needed to bend the little pegs out, and even then the emblem needed a firm push to get it in. Be very careful not to bend the grill. You'll never get it flat again if you do! Bend the 6 tabs up at 90 degrees. Again, double check to make sure you bend them the right way! Put the grill in place, and bend the clips flat. Again, check that everything is the right way round! Screw the grill in place. You can't get this one wrong!! Finally, clip the lights in place. Double check the orientation as these are just lined up be eye. This completes this stage.