Mark, The Master Modeller

Stage 55 is the lower trunk board and fuel filler pipe. I assume this translates to boot floor! LOL!! Two parts, one screw, easy!! Stage 56 is the circuit board and cables. Plug the cables in following the instructions and numbers. Then screw the circuit board to the panel. That completes this pack! Here's the gratuitous "The car looks like this" shot!!

Stage 52, another seat. Stage 53 the seat cushion. Stage 54 the seat cover and belts. Firstly, the seat belt hooks go in like this. Now we assemble the seat, which is a repeat of the driver's seat. The only difference between the two seats is the orientation of the lap belts. Add the shoulder straps. Tweezers are your friend here!! Add the seats, and we're done with this stage.

Stage 51. The batteries The batteries and bracket are screwed on - easy stuff! Fitting the cables into the cut-off switch was a bit fiddly. A tiny drop of superglue makes life easier. That is screwed to the rear bulkhead. Now add the cables. Again, superglue is your friend. Finally, the kill switch is added. I thought kill switches were usually red. I may paint this in due course. Does anybody have inf info about this particular car?

I'm building pack 7 now. Stage 49 gives us a seat. Nothing to do until the next stage. Stage 50 is the seat cover and belts. First, trim the tape and stick it to the sides of the seat. Be careful, this tape is one shot only! It's very sticky, and very thin! Now the seat cover is fitted. This needs a bit of pulling and shaping to get to fit properly, but it looks good when you get it right. Have some practice fits before you pull the tape backing paper off and stick it in place. Then the cushion goes in and is screwed in from underneath. Then the seat belts are pushed on under the seat. Make sure you get them the right way round! Mine pushed on firmly, but you could add a tiny drop of superglue if necessary. This completes the stage. Looks good!!

Stage 48 gives us the battery box, switch, and some other twiddly bits. The main on/off switch goes under the transmission tunnel. A couple of pipes are added to the battery box. They call it a mounting box, but I'm not sure what it's function is on the real car. Perhaps it is the battery box? It fits thus. The cover slides on And we're done! I've taped the barrel cable to save it getting damaged.

Stage 47 gives us the LOUD pedal, and some others...... The first thing I did was to cover the screw heads on the bottom of the floor pan with a bit of masking tape to stop them scratching my work surface. First the floor plate pushes on. The pedals are fitted and screwed in from behind. Fit the brake switch to its holder. This fits underneath the pedal. Repeat the exercise for the LOUD Pedal! As the instructions hint, I found that the switch was sticking when the pedal was pressed. I fixed this by removing the switch and pedal, filing out the hold a little, then refitting everything. That solved the problem. I've now got a lovely clicking action! Fit the cable clips and clip the brake cable in place.

Stager 46. Let's have a bit of bling in the cockpit! Gear lever trim and gater. The U bar. I'm not quite sure what this was for. Perhaps to give passengers something to hold on to? The gear lever and hand brake are fitted. However, I've taken the hand brake off to save breaking it! It's very vulnerable!

Stage 43, let's have some floor! Simply screwed together! The cable clip goes underneath. Stage 44, more floor! This also screws together easily. The floor mats are a push fit. A little trick to get to locate, but they do go once you get them in the right place and give them a push! Stage 45. The cockpit rear wall. Another part that screws on easily.

Pack 6, and we are half way through! Stage 41, the dashboard A couple of plates go on the back. These are a push fit. The steering shaft guide is screwed in place. The knobs and switches have the tiniest details printed beautifully!! There are extras of the unprinted knobs to feed the carpet monster! Best use sprue cutters to remove these. Follow the instructions, and you end up with this. Note that the button for the lights is deliberately loose as it is used to switch the lights! Don't be tempted to glue it! Stage 42 continues with the dash. Apply the stickers carefully with tweezers. It's worth taking the time to make sure they are upright! All in place! Now add the lenses and the chrome trim. Fit the switch to the back cover, making sure it's seated properly. Then screw the back cover in place. Our completed dash looks like this!

Stage 40 gives us the fender liners and air intake panel. The finder liners screw in fairly easily. So does the air intake panel. This completes this pack! Here's the model as it looks at the moment.

Stage 39 is the front right suspension, and is a repeat of stage 38, so I won't repeat myself. This is the completed stage 39. Now you rapidly discover that every time you pick up the model, the front suspension flops down! Annoying or what! I've been reliably informed that it's much better behaved once the steering rack is fitted.

Stage 38 gives us the front left suspension. Firstly fit the shock cylinder with a pin. Now fit the shock piston and the connecting rod to the lower wishbone. Now the upper wishbone (control arm in American!) is fitted to the chassis. Make sure the shock goes under the wishbone. Excuse the cap, it's just there to make the photo a bit clearer. Now we can fit the lower wishbone assembly. Take the front wheel and fit it to the lower wishbone by sliding to over the connecting rod. Finally a pin is used to connect the upper wishbone. This completes this stage.

Stages 34 to 37 give us another 2 wheels. More tyre wrestling!!! Stage 34 parts Completed. Stage 35 parts The completed wheel. The completed wheel fitted to the model. Stages 36 & 37 are a repeat of 34 & 35. Here's the second wheel fitted to the model.

Stage 33 gives us the rear floor panel This fits easily with 8 screws. This completes this stage.

On with Pack 5, and stage 32. This is the rear right suspension The shock piston goes on the lower arm with a pin. The shock cylinder goes on the chassis, again with a pin. Now the lower arm is fitted with more pins. I have to say, I like these pin fittings. They are easy to go on, and they look much better than having a screwed sticking out! Then the previously assembled hub is attached. This completes the stage.

Stage 31 gives us the right rear wheel hub and brake. The assembly is the same as the previous one. The completed pack looks like this!

Stage 29 gives us some of the rear suspension. Firstly, put the prop shaft and if in place. They are loose at this stage, and the prop shaft falls out easily! Don't worry about it, it goes back easily later. Now fit the upper wishbones to their bracket. Be careful to get these parts the right way round. Screw the upper wishbone holder to the chassis. The prop shaft has fallen out, but don't worry. Fit the left hub upright to the upper wishbone with a pin. Still no need to worry about the prop shaft...... Stage 30 gives us the lower left wishbone and shock. Add the shock absorber cylinder with another pin. Fix the shock piston to the lower wishbone. Add the spring and the shock goes together like this. The lower wishbone is fixed to the chassis with two pins. Now is when you need to put the prop shaft back! (Yeah, I know, mine's still missing..... It will go in after the next step, but it's a bit of a fiddle!) The completed stage looks like this!

Stage 27 gives us the differential housing and drive shafts. Firstly, screw the inner drive shaft connectors to the diff housing. They are both the same, so it doesn't matter which way round they go. Now fit the drive shafts. These are fitted with a pin which pushes through fairly easily. It does matter which way round these go. Left and right are different, and the shafts must be fitted so they point slightly backwards. Now fit the left rear hub to the drive shaft with another pin. This completes this stage. Stage 28 gives us the top & rear diff housings and prop shaft. Firstly fit the rear housing. Now add the housing top. This completes the stage.

Stage 26 give us the rear left wheel hub and brake. The assembly is virtually the same as the front hub/brake, but we don't add the wheel yet.

Stage 25 gives us the floor panels Screw the first side in place. I taped the battery lead down to avoid it getting tangled. Add the second side. Now the engine is screwed in place. It's only held by two screws onto bell housing, but they hold it firmly. This completes this stage, and she is looking good!!

I've got pack 4 now. Stage 24 gives us the front right wheel hub & brake. First, push the chrome cap into the spinner. Now put the brake disc on the hub. Add the caliper. Add the wheel. Turn it over, screw the wheel on, then add the spinner. This completes this stage.

I'm so tempted to ask KMW if I can book a test drive 😂

Stage 100! The last stage!! The gives us the rear bumper and number plates. Fit the rear number plate to the rear valance Now fit the rear valance to the model. I left it upside down for this. Now add the rear bumper. This just pushes on. Moving to the front of the car, fit the front number plate. This completes the model! I think it looks stunning!! It is a big and heavy model!! I now proudly claim my AgoraElite badge 😀

Stage 99 gives us the rear valance Before we start with the parts supplied we have the major task of fitting the body. Firstly, I take the wires undertake front vent grill with some masking tape. This tames the wires somewhat! Now connect all the cables. First things first, put a drop of oil in the screw holes. This will make it much easier to drive the screws home. Holding the trunk open with a bit of masking tape makes life easier too. Now lower the body over the chassis. It's a bit tricky and needs a bit of fiddling to get it to sit properly. Make sure you get the cables tucked out of sight too. Once it's fully seated, now is a good time to insert some batteries and check the electrics all work. Now turn the model over and fit the screws. I actually couldn't get all of them in, but the body held fine with 6 out of the 8! The instructions suggest putting it on your lap to avoid damaging the antenna. However, I just placed it close to the edge of the table. Now glue the lenses to the rear fog lights. The instructions say they are a push fit, and mine did push fit, but seemed slightly loose. A spot of PVA gives them that little extra security. They are screwed not the rear valance. That's it for this stage.

Stage 97 gives us the head lining, but we attach the doors. I found the easy way to ensure that the door was properly aligned was to put the car upside down and hold the door in the closed position while tightening the screw. The door aligned perfectly, as did the other side! That's it for this stage. Stage 98 gives us the rear view mirror and sun shades The sun shades simply clip in like this. The rear view mirror clips together and is screwed in place. Then the head lining is pressed into place. Finally the antenna is screwed into place. This is metal and a lot stronger than it looks. It doesn't bend easily! That completes this stage