Optimus Prime, Pack 1

[Mark A]

Hi All,

Let me introduce myself. I am Mark Adams. I have been building Partwork (build-up) models for the better part of14 years, starting with the Hachette Stuka. I really like the subscription format, as it allows me to work on other models, after I have assembled the months parts pack.

Liam asked me to do the Official Build for Optimus Prime, and while I was initially hesitant as I am not a Transformers fan (never having seen any of the movies) I think this will be a fun build! It’s a bit more complicated than I initially thought and did present a bit of a challenge.

THE BUILD

 

Part 1;

Part 1 has you assemble the head. As this is mostly metal, it is surprisingly heavy. As such, you will want to have quality CA glue handy. I used JB Weld “Super Weld” which is formulated for metals. I will also be using Tamiya Extra Thin for the plastic-on-plastic joints.

Steps 1-3 have you assemble the top of the head. I used Tamiya glue for the joint between TR-1-40 and TR-1-39. If using CA glue here, I would apply it into the socket in part 1-39, as it is a fairly tight fit, and the chances of accidentally smearing CA glue on part 1-39 are pretty decent. Simply place a small amount of CA on the end of a cocktail stick (toothpick) and use that to get the glue into the socket. Use the same process for placing the parts in step 2. In step 3, you place the helmet crest onto the top of the head, part TR-1-03. (Screws PWM are the SILVER screws)

Part 2

Part 2 deals with the motor for the “jaw” and the supporting framework.

Step 1 is rather fiddly. The eccentric cam, part TR-1-21, is a loose fit on the motor and there is nothing to secure it. Resist the temptation to use a spot of CA, as you do NOT want to seize the motor! Part 20 has nothing to secure it in place at all.

Steps 2- 3 are  where it all comes together. Pay close attention to the orientation of the motor, using the green circuit board as your reference. (See pic 3) I placed part 20 in the slot in part 17 first, followed by the motor with the cam in place. Hold the cam and part 20 in place with a forefinger, while maneuvering part 18 into place. Secure the assembly with 2 PWB (BLACK) screws. (These screws are found in parts tray 2)

Part 3

Part 3 deals with the assembly of the face. Step 4 is simple, but step 4A is a bit tricky. Part 19 is easy to fit the wrong way around. The deeper recessed face should face the assembly from step 4. (Compare steps 4 and 4a for a pictorial representation and note the different appearances of the two faces of part 19) Use 2 PWB (Black) screws to secure the jaw to the pivot assembly.

 

 

Part 4

Part 4 is the assembly of the neck and is straightforward.

Part 5

Steps 5-8 place the drive motor for the jaw assembly, as well as adding the lights for the eyes. Pay attention to the routing of the wires for both the motor and the LED lights. The routing is a bit tricky for the last step of step 7, and I found that a cocktail stick was handy to coax the wires under the tabs on the neck assembly. Step 8 holds it all together with a nut and bolt.

Steps 9-11 add the head shells and are straightforward.

Part 5

Part 5 adds further details to the head

Steps 1-6 add the side pieces to the helmet and are straight forward.

Assembling the Chest

Steps 1-3 have you assemble the lights that adorn the “shoulders.” Assembly is straight forward, but here are a couple of tips that might help out;

In step 1A, put a very sharp bend in the wires, This will help hold the bulb in place during assembly, as the bulb is a very loose fit in the socket. In step 2, place a TINY dab of cement on the inner  lip of TR-1-46. This will secure part TR-1-62 in place during assembly. I found that glue was not necessary when assembling the light halves, as they are a very tight press fit, but your milage may vary. If cement is to be used, use the extra thin liquid cement as this will allow time to assemble the halves. CA might seize too quickly, allowing a gap to form. 

Step 4

Step 4 is a bit tricky. Do NOT attempt to press part TR-1-56 directly into the mating hole in assemblies I, as the gap is too small for both at the same time, and breakage can result. (Don’t ask me how I know this….) Rather, fully insert one side of the tangs, then rock the other into place, with a bit of pressure on the tang you are inserting.

Steps 5-8 are quite straight forward. The only word of caution I have is that you should make sure that the polarity of the magnets in step 8 is the sale. I used the provided screw driver to hold the magnet, applied CA glue to the opposite face, then placed the magnet into the mating socket and simply slid the screwdriver off of the magnet while the magnet was in place.

Steps 9-13

These steps have you assemble the windshields and the side windows. Assembly is straight forward with no issues at all.

Steps 14-24 are repeats of the above but for the other side of the chest.

 

Testing the electronics

This is where you get to see if all the previous work has paid off! All mi lights and the motor worked perfectly.

 

Pack 1 is finished!