Mark, The Master Modeller

Stage 10 fits the front grills to the nose of the model. The black grills look great on the black bodywork, and the carbon fibre trim is gorgeous.

Stage 64 gives us the instrument panel and switches. First, we need to remove the 3 switches and instrument LED. Pull on the plastic sockets. Don't pull the wires as you may well pull the wires out of the sockets. Carefully flatten out the pins on the switches. The wires don't need flattening out so much as they are bent over again. Insert the switches into the button housing. Note the order of the wire colours. Bend over the pins to lock the switches in place. A small flat bladed screwdriver is ideal for this., Bend the wires over as shown. Screw the instrument panel, dials and reflector panel with 2 screws. It looks like this from the back, Push the LED in place. Fit the instrument panel to the dashboard. It's a push fit. Note how the LED wires are bent over. Fit the instrument panel cover and secure it with a couple of screws. Push the three black switches into to holes in the dashboard from behind. Don't glue them as they need to be loose to operate the pushbutton switches. Screws the switch assembly to the dashboard and secure with a couple of screws. The buttons look like this from the front. Make sure all three click the switches when pressed. Push the indicator light in place. Push the cream coloured switches in place. Push the two bolt heads and the key switch into the switch panel. Screw this to the dashboard. It looks like this from the front. Lead the switch and LED wires out to the side. The instructions say to twist them together, but I decided to hold them together with a spare strip of black tape. They are likely to be too short if you knot them together. This completes the stage and the Pack.

Stage 63 gives us the dashboard, some details and some decals. Push the master cut-off switch into the hole in the middle of the dash. Push the starter switch into the hole in the dash. The switch in the instructions looks like it has a slot, but my switch just had a hole. However the key fits in it nice and firmly. The decals go on quite easily. As the surface is slightly textured I decided to use some decal setting liquid. I used Microscale, but there are other brands that work just as well. Soak the decal in water until it slides easily on the backing paper. Don't let it soak oolong that it floats off as that's probably dissolved most of the glue. Paint a little of the blue solution where the decal goes then apply the decal and manoeuvre it into place. Let the decal dry for about 10-15 mins, then apply the red solution. This softens the decal and allows it to conform to the surface, so don't touch the decal after you've applied the red solution. Sometimes the decal will wrinkle, but don't worry as it will flatten as it dries. Other solutions are often just a single bottle, so follow the instructions supplied. This completes the stage. You can see the key fitted now as well.

Stage 62 gives us the passenger seat. A nice easy stage, but I can't help worry that the passenger doesn't get a seat belt! Brave passenger!! Screw the seat cushion to the base. The seat is then fixed to the chassis with 2 screws fitted through the bottom of the chassis. This completes the stage.

A bigger hammer might help. Seriously! A sharp tap with a bigger hammer is more effective that a harder hit with a smaller hammer. Let the weight of the hammer do the work. However, not so heavy that it will damage the model of course.

Have you lubricated the screw threads? Put a drop of oil, or smear of vaseline or soap on the screw hole. This will lubricate the threads and help the screw drive home properly.

Hi Bradford, Welcome to the forum! The Miura is a lovely kit. Feel free to shout if you need any help.

Very nice! Brilliant job the paintwork. Wish I could get a shine like that!

The Flying Scotsman may have international appeal. The loco has done a world tour if I recall. O gauge or G gauge would make nice impressive displays. An early Japanese Shinkansen may also be worth a thought. Personally, I'd like to see The Rocket and The Locomotion, but they might be a bit niche.....

Sure, I'll take some photos and perhaps a video in the near future.

Hi Brian, Can you have a close look at the connectors for the tail wires in stage 85. The connectors are the same size, but the wires are slightly different. One pair is very slightly thicker than the other. Can you check that the thicker ones are connected together. Then check that the connectors to the circuit board in the base unit are as per the instructions. If it's all correct, please send a message to Agora customer services as I think you'll need a replacement circuit board in the aircraft. Cheers Mark

The red finish is stunning. Great job!

That's stunning! Hard to beat a well made MFH kit, but they do take a LOT of building!

Stage 96 gives us the IR receiver unit and another piece of the pedestal. Remove the two screws and the cover holder supplied in stage 89. Screw the IR receiver circuit board to the cover holder. Replace the cover holder. Take the last section of pedestal base and put it in position. It's secured with the metal plate. The instructions advise adding this a little later on, but I found it more convenient to use it to hold the last section in place. However, don't pick up the pedestal or you will bend the metal plate or damage the base. Add the side piece with the power switch, supplied in stage 71, and secure with the metal brackets supplied in stage 91. Screw the charging unit in place. It looks like this from the outside. This completes the stage. It will be OK to pick up the pedestal now as the base is supported buy both the metal plate and the side piece.

Stage 95 gives us the charging unit. Screw the charging unit circuit board to the holder. Plug the cable into the connector. This is the left hand connector as you look at the LED and charging socket. The cable will only go one way, so don't force it. This completes the stage.

Sorry, I've only just seen this post. Are you still having problems? If so, can you tell me which holes line up, and which don't. Do the bottom holes line up OK?

Stage 94 gives us a fuselage panel, 20mm guns, pitot tube, small wing panels, and some decals. Push the fuselage spine panel in place. This is followed by the rudder fairing. Now add the 2 20mm guns and the pitot tube. Be careful of these are they are quite vulnerable and easy to break during the subsequent assembly. Clip the upper wing panels in place, making sure that they are fully seated. It's a bit of a game, but they will go with a bit of perseverance. They are also fixed with a couple of screws in each panel. One near the wing root and one in the recess for the small outer wing panel. Add the two outer wing panels, which are just pushed in place. Push the two small inner wing panels into position. Add the two aileron control rod covers. These also push in place. Finally, add the antenna. Note that it leans forwards slightly. This completes the stage.

Stage 93 gives us another part of the pedestal and the switch unit. Push the switch into the switch plate. Make sure you get it the right way round. It looks like this from the back. fix teh switch plate to the pedestal side that was supplied in stage 71. It looks like this from the front. Now add the MDF board to the pedestal assembly. It's with a metal corner bracket. This completes the stage.

Stage 61 gives us the driver's seat. Take the lower safety belt and pass it through the slot in the driver's seat. The loop of the safety belt goes behind the seat like so. Fold the buckle over. Now push the buckle lock over the buckle. Secure the loop of the belt with a couple of pieces of tape. Fix the seat base with a couple of screws. Take the upper belt and tape it in position on the underside of the seat base. Note that the tape must stay at least 2mm away from the screw holes. Fit the seat adjuster into the hole in the seat base. Mount the seat to the chassis with two screws. This completes the stage, although a piece of masking tape will help tame the seat belts for now.

Stage 60 gives us the battery and the gear selector. Push the battery cables onto the terminal lugs. Screw the terminals to the top of the battery with a couple of screws. Push the bottom of the battery in place. Push teh battery cover over the top of the battery terminals, shame though it is to hide the details! Clip the battery strap in place. The bottom of the clips should locate like this. Push the completed battery onto the posts on the chassis, just in front of the fire wall. Push the battery cables onto the pins on the firewall, just below the ignition box. You may need to shorten the cables a little. Take the gear lever and the gearbox rod. Push them together. Feed the gearbox rod through the hole in the firewall, just above the fire extinguisher. Feed the rod back through the inside of the chassis and then push it onto the gear support (part 53E). Push the gear level into the hole in the chassis, on the right hand side of the cockpit. This completes the stage.

Stage 59 gives us the engine and velocity stack covers. Put the engine cover in place and fix it to the velocity stack plate with 5 screws. Put the left velocity stack cover in place. This is secured with 2 screws. Finally, put the right velocity stack plate in position and fix it with 4 screws. This completes the stage.

Pack 58 gives us the left velocity stacks. Assembly is similar, but not identical to stage 57. Clip the injectors from the sprue with sprue cutters. Push these into the velocity stack plate. Cut the fuel tube into the lengths specified in the instructions. I.e. 45mm, 55mm, 65mm, 85mm, 100mm & 115mm. Feed these through the velocity stack plate and push them onto the injectors. Put the velocity stack plate loosely in place and then clip the first 3 fuel pipes to the clips on the fan housing. Repeat with the remaining 3 fuel pipes, making sure that all the fuel pipes are routed right way past the velocity stacks and plug leads. Then push them onto the pins on the fuel injection pumps. Lower the velocity stack plate into position, being careful not to trap the fuel pipes or plug leads. Push the velocity stack covers in place. Then fit the velocity stack necks. I needed to use a little super glue to make sure they stayed in place. The friction fit wasn't really confidence inspiring! This completes the stage.

I haven't seen this problem before, but I think you're correct in guessing that it's a remote or processor issue. Contact Agora CS and give them them the symptoms. You could mention that I've seen your post on the forum and suspect a faulty remote or display pedestal processor. I'd replace the remote first as replacing the processor is more involved, and I think a faulty remote is more likely anyway.

Hi Brian, Double check all the connections. Particularly the motor and microswitch connections for the lifters. Fully charge the battery for a good number of hours until the charge light turns green. Switch on the base. The red LED in the IR receiver should come on. Make sure that the red light on the remote control is off. Point the remote at the IR receiver and press the power button on the remote. The red LED on the remote should come on and the base should start to initialise. If it doesn't work, contact Agora Customer Services and they will advise further and see out any necessary spare parts.

Stage 57 gives us the right hand velocity stacks. Clip the injectors from the sprue. I use a pair of sprue cutters as these give a nice clean cut. Push the injector nozzles into the velocity stack panel. Cut the fuel pipes into the various lengths detailed in the instructions. I.e. 3x125mm, 135mm, 155mm & 160mm. You can straighten them by dropping them in hot water if they are excessively curly. Push the fuel pipes into the injectors and fed them through the holes in the velocity stack plate. Temporarily remove the reinforcement bar 50B. Put the velocity stack plate loosely in place. Take the front three fuel pipes and clip them to the clips on the front of the cooling fan housing. Clip them to the second clip on the fan housing. Push the ends onto the connectors on the fuel injection pump. Take the rear three fuel pipes and feed these round the back of the fan housing, clipping them to the clips. Push these into the next three connectors on the injection pump. Refit the reinforcement bar. Push the velocity stack panel over the velocity stacks, being careful to make sure plug leads sit neatly between he velocity stacks and don't stop the panel sitting flat. Push the 6 velocity stack covers in place. Followed by the 6 velocity stack necks. Some of these needed a spot of superglue to hold them securely. This completes the stage.