Mark, The Master Modeller

Before putting the bulkhead into place, bring the brake lines (40F) through the bottom outer triangle of the chassis. I have only shown the left side, but it's the same on the right. Now put the bulkhead loosely into position and connect the brake lines to the pins on the bulkhead.Again, it's the same both sides. Feed the HT leads through the chassis as shown. The fire extinguisher pipes go through the top outer triangles of the chassis. Now you can put the bulkhead in place properly. Secure it with 2 screws. Push the HT leads onto the pins in the distributor cap. This is a bit fiddly and you'll need to swell the ends ont he tube with a cocktail stick. Push the two halves of the fire extinguisher together. Push the black tube onto the fire extinguisher and then push the pins on the fire extinguisher through the holes in the bus;khead. I found that I needed to shorten the black tube a bit. Push the clutch cable onto the pin on the bulkhead. Secure the fire extinguisher pipes to the chassis with 4 of the black tapes. This is the tape at the front of the engine bay. Same both sides of course. This is the tape a the rear of the engine bay. The ends of the pipe are left loose. This completes the stage.

Stage 56 gives us a lot of details for the rear bulkhead and then installs the bulkhead on the model. There is a LOT of work in this stage, so I'm going to split the post over a couple of posts. Push the smaller ignition box into place. This is a press fit. Take the coloured wires and straighten them out. It doesn't need to be prefect, just enough to make them easier to handle and fit. Cut 10 off 35mm lengths, 2 of each colour.. Take one of each colour and push them through the left hole above the ignition box. Take the blue wire and superglue it to the ignition box. Repeat with the remaining four wires. Repeat this for the right hand side of the ignition box. Push the rev limiter relays onto the bulkhead above the ignition box. Push the larger ignition box onto the bulkhead. I'm going to stray from the instructions a little for the next step as I think my method is slightly easier. Take the 8 lengths of cable, and glue them to the ignition box. Cut a shortish length of the black cable sheath and insert it into the hole in the bulkhead. Now feed all the cables through the black cable sheath. Turn the bulkhead over and trim the cables and sheath flush. I dribbled a bit of superglue around the cables first as I didn't want them coming out! Also cut the other ignition wires flush. Again, I used some superglue to ensure that they wouldn't fall out. Push the bottom of the regulator housing onto the bulkhead. Then fit the top of the regulator housing. Push the two ignition coils into place. Cut the red and black wires as per the instructions. I.e. 2 off 30mm lengths of red, and the black is cut into 2 lengths of 96mm, two lengths of 30mm and a length 22mm. fit the 30mm lengths of red and black cable to the ignition coils. You will need to swell the ends of the tubes with a cocktail stick. Feed these through the hole above the coils. Take the two 95mm lengths and fit them to the centre post of the coils. These are then fed through the holes to the right of the coils. Turn the bulkhead over. Trim the shorter cables flush with the bulkhead, but leave the long black cables free for the moment. Push the last (22mm) black cable onto the bottom of the T connector, then push this onto the bulkhead. Cut the fire extinguisher hose into 2 lengths, 250mm long. Push these onto the tee branch connector and feed the free ends through the large holes. The bulkhead is now ready to be fitted to the model. I shall continue with this in part 2 of the post.

There is a lot of work in Pack 8. I do mean A LOT!! Stage 55 gives us the seat belts and plexiglass partition. Press the partition into place. It's an easy press fit. We start the seat belts by fixing the top buckle to the belt. The easiest way to do this is to fold over the end of the belt, then pass it through the buckle. Thread teh folded end down through the other side of the buckle. It looks like this from the underneath. Slide the bottom buckle on. This is straight forward, but note that eh small hole goes towards the bottom of the belt. Slide the buckle lock onto the end of the belt. Stick a piece of the double sided tape to the end of the belt. Fold the end over and stick the belt to itself. Repeat the process to make a second identical belt. Feed the belt supports through the top loop and push them into place of the cabin bulkhead. This complete the stage.

Mark A is doing the full build diary of La Ferrari, but I'm also building the black version. I'll post some pics of the completed stages of the Black version as a supplement to Mark's diary. Here's the bonnet and front splitter. The black finish is stunning, but the red does contrast the carbon fibre nicely. It's a tough choice as they both look amazing.

Great to have you on board Wayne.

If you have one lifter continuously cycling the problem is likely to be the limit switches. There is some guidance in the troubleshooting guide. Most likely you need to place a card spacer under the limit switch assembly. Have a look at the guide and let me know if it helps or if you need more assistance.

It initialises when you press the power button on the remote. If you have a lifter continuously cycling then you will need to adjust the limit switches. There is guidance in the troubleshooting instructions, but let me know if you need further help.

I didn’t notice a gap. However, my wing skins are currently removed so I’ll check when I reassemble them. I’ll let you know if there was any problems.

I have to say, you've done a stunning job on clear-coating the bodywork. That shine is probably better than a real Miura!

I haven’t seen the model yet, but I’d be surprised if there are any excessive panel gaps. I haven’t noticed any great paint problems on the models I’ve built so far, but if you can post a picture of the orange peel paint I’ll have a look.

In a similar vein, I've love to see a 6' tall Saturn V rocket!

Stage 54 gives us the cockpit bulkhead. Push the red and blue wires into the appropriate holes in the bulkhead. They are a friction fit, but I decided to add a tiny drop of superglue in each hole, jus too be sure that they won't fall out. Push the voltage regulator in place. Turn the bulkhead over and trim the wires flush with the bulkhead. Fit the left tubular frame in place. This is a push fit. Repeat with the right tubular frame. This completes the stage, and the pack. However, I couldn't resist trying the bulkhead in place!

Stage 53 gives us the rear right wheel and a replacement support bracket. Assembly of the wheel is a repeater of stage 51. Now we have to replace the support bracket that connects the gearbox support lever to the stabilising rod. I assume that the replacement is more accurate. Pull the old bracket off.The stabilising rod will probably come off as well, but this can just be pushed back in place. The replacement bracket is simply (simply? Ha ha! it's an awkward so and so!) pushed back in place. As before, the instructions say to fit the wheel, but I will leave mine until later. This completes the stage.

Stage 52 gives us the second chassis reinforcement bar and another rear tyre. The chassis reinforcement bar is fitted easily. However, note that the angled end of the bar should fit in the front left hand corner of the chassis and the straight end fits on the right hand side. This completes the stage.

Stage 51 gives us the rear left wheel. The bead on the outer half rim of the wheel is deeper than the bead on the inner. You'll need to get the tyre the right way round so it sits properly in the rims. This is the thinner bead on the tyre. This is the thicker bead that goes on the outside of the wheel. Soak the tyre in hot water for a few minutes to soften it (minding your fingers!) then fit the tyre rims. They are screwed together with 3 screws. The instructions say to fit the wheel now, but it will only need to be removed later, so I shall leave mine off. If you do this, keep the washer, screw and hub cap safely. This completes the stage.

Stage 50 gives us a chassis reinforcement bar and a rear tyre. The reinforcement bar is fitted across the top of the upper frame with 2 screws. This completes the stage as the tyre is saved for later.

Stage 49 gives us the right tripod bar and tail lights, but we also attach the upper frame. So quite a lot of work in this stage. Fitting the tripod bar and light cluster is a repeat of the previous stage. Fit the tripod bar, attaching it with all screws loosely before tightening them all. Assembly the rear light cluster. Fit the light cluster to the upper frame. Remove the trumpet from the transmission cooling duct (supplied in stage 46) so you can get a straight drive on the screw and screw the duct to the upper frame. Now you can replace the trumpet. Fit the left cooling duct to the upper frame as well. Put the oil recovery tank in place on the rear left hand side of the chassis. The bottom end of the strut fits in a hole in the chassis. The free end of the hose pushes onto a pin on the right hand side of the gearbox housing. Lower the upper frame onto the model. I found it easier to insert the front of the upper frame into the holes in the cockpit partition frame, then lower the rear end into place. Get it all in place before inserting any screws. Again, it's best to insert all the screws loosely before tightening them. The pins on the top of the cross frame fit into holes under the cross bar. The screw that holds the upper frame to the chassis is already inserted in this photo. The top of the strut for the oil recovery tank is held by a hole in the upper frame. The bottom of the tripod bars fit into holes in the back of the chassis. Screws at the front hold the upper frame to the cockpit partition frame. Screws in top hold the upper frame to the chassis. Two screws hold the upper frame to the gearbox reinforcement frame. Turn the model over and two screws are inserted from below. These hold the bottom of the tripod bar to the chassis. Now the upper frame is secured, we can fit the LED in the rear light cluster. The wires are held with strips of black tape. Threat the LED wire to the upper frame. Tape it in place with one of the strips of tape. Apply a second strip of tape just in front of the top of the tripod bar. Push the LED into the light cluster. Repeat on the other side. This completes the stage.

Stage 48 gives us the rear light cluster and tripod bar. Start by positioning the left tripod bar under the upper frame. Insert all three screws loosely before tightening them up. You may need to spring the tripod bar a little to get it to fit. Here's a wider angle shot showing the tripod bar on the upper frame. Insert the tail light lens in teh housing. Note that the red brake light goes to the right. Now screw the reflector in from the rear. Screw the light cluster assembly to the upper frame. The light cluster is angled outwards slightly. This completes the stage, and this was when I decided to secure the bonnet lift arm with masking tape, because I got fed up with it falling about!

Stage 47 gives us the upper framework of the chassis. There is quite a lot to do in this stage. Start by taking the uprights supplied in stage 45. They are conveniently marks L & R for was identification. These screw to the rear of the upper frame with a screw inserted from the top. Take the bonnet lift arm and fix it to the upper frame. It's screwed from the bottom of the upper frame. It should be able to be lifted like this. This is its retracted position. It has a tendency to flop about, so hold it with a piece of masking tape. I do that later, but hind sight is a wonderful thing! Screw a bracket onto each of the front lower struts. Remove the existing screw securing the top wishbone to the upright. Replace this screw with the screw type EM supplied in this stage, and use that screw to secure the small bracket. Secure the bracket on the other end of the strut to the top of the chassis. Repeat for the other side. Take the rear brake discs supplied in stage 44, and push them on the hub between the two sides of the calipers. This completes the stage, and I've put the upper frame in place, just because I can!

Stage 46 gives us the engine oil recovery tank, transmission cooling duct, bonnet lift arm and some other details. Screw the two halves of the oil tank together. Screw the strut to it with a couple of screws. Fit the oil recovery hose to the back of the tank. This just pushes on the pin, but you can superglue it if you wish. Screw the support bracket to the first half of the cooling duct. Now screw the two halves of the cooling duct together. Push the trumpet onto the end. Screw the two part sod the lift arm together. Make sure that the bush on 46J is pointing outwards or you won't be able to fit the support bracket. Fit the support bracket in place with a screw. These parts should all be free to rotate. This completes the stage.

As many of you will have seen, Agora has now announced the release of the LaFerrari. Agora Advantage club members (you're automatically a member if you've purchased a model from Agora) have the option of upgrading to the Daytona Black edition, which is limited to 150 models.

Yes, I did in the end.

Stage 58 gives us the horns, but we assemble the steering mechanism. Take the steering rack and push the steering damper in place. The pins/holes are different sizes so it will only go on one way. it the rack into the front frame behind the battery. You will need to insert one end through the hole in the left side of the front frame, then lower the rack into position and re-centre it. Turn the front frame over so you can see the slot where the rack is secured. Apply a little lubricant to the screw holes, then place one of the washers in position. Secure this with a screw and repeat with a second washer and screw. You can also lubricate the washers to get a better steering action. You really want to lubricate the underside of the washers, but it's almost impossible not to get the lubricant on the top! Vaseline or any light grease will do. Make sure that the rack can slide left and right easily. Slide the rack to the left so you can insert the right hand steering arm. Insert the arm and fix with a screw. The right hand arm is the longer one. Make sure that you get the arm the right way up. The smaller ring must face upwards. Check the photo to see what I mean. Leave the rack to the left and fix the left hand (shorter) steering arm. Now make sure the steering column rotates smoothly (well, smoothly-ish!) and the rack moves left to right. You may need to tighten or loosen the steering rack securing screws/washers to get a smooth movement. This completes the stage and the pack.

Stage 57 gives us the steering rack and associated parts, but we assemble the front frame. Take the front frame fit the front frame cover. The cover is fitted to the front frame with 3 screw. One goes into a post near the battery. The other two fit from the top and the outsides of the cover. This completes the stage.

Stage 56 gives us the front frame, but we assemble the battery and fit it to the front frame cover. Take the battery cover and battery body and press the two parts together. Press the battery terminals in place. They are handed and the pins to fit the cables point outwards. Swell the ends of the cables with a sharp cocktail stick and push them onto the pins on the terminals. Clip the battery handles to the battery top. They will only go on one way round. Screw the battery tot the front frame cover. The terminal posts face the frame cover. Put the steering column in place. The two bushes on the shaft hold it in the correct position. Put the bracket (supplied in stage 55) in place and secure it with a screw. This completes the stage.