Mark, The Master Modeller

Stage 97 gives us the bottom floor panel and battery compartment. First of all, take the Lamborghini logo from stage 7 and fit it to the bonnet. Take the battery compartment and fit it to the floor panel with 2 screws. The red wire is closest to the aperture for the switch. Fix the switch into its aperture with a couple of screws. The connects with the wires soldered to them go closest to the batter compartment. Take the battery compartment lid and push the chromed screw through the hole. Turn it over and push the clear plastic washer over the threads of the screw. This will hold the screw in position when you remove the lid. Finally, fit the battery compartment lid to complete the stage.

Stage 96 gives us the last wheel and the hub caps. The tyre pushes onto the rim easily. When it comes to fitting the wheels to the car note that there are two tabs on the hub, they are pointing straight up and down in the photo. There are matching slots in the wheel. Make sure that these are aligned when you fit the wheel. Put the wheel in place and secure it with the long screws supplied. The hub caps are fitted later. Repeat for all 4 wheels. The two Bertone logos are pushed into the holes into the left hand side of the body. This completes the stage, and please excuse the mess on my bench!

Lovely job. It'll look even better once it's been weathered.

In Pack 8 Black Edition the black parts are the doors. The other stages are identical. I won't go into the construction in any detail as Mark A has already covered that, but I'll show you the stage contents and the finished assemblies. Stage 59 gives us the upper and lower parts of the right door. These simply screw together and the finished stage looks like this. Stage 60 is the window and upper panel which is black in both the black and red editions. Stage 61 gives us some of the interior details. Once assembled, the black edition door looks like this. The inside of the door looks like this. Stage 62 gives us the remaining interior details. Here is the inside of the door with all the details fitted. This completes the right door for now. Stage 63 starts the left door. Here are the left door upper and lower parts screwed together. This completes the pack as far as the differences between the Black and Red Editions are concerned. In Pack 9 we will finish the left door, fit the doors and fit the nose. The car is gorgeous. It looks like it's doing 100mph while its stood on my shelf part finished!!

Nice! I do love a bit of SciFi. Please post some pics of your model.

Stage 95 gives us the rear wheel arches. We fit them and the rear body (which provides more 'entertainment' that it should do!) The rear wheel arches have a tab on the rear. This tab fits in a slot in the rear body. Remove and flash and mound lines from the tab and any excess paint from the slot. It's important that the tab can fit in the slot easily. Insert the tab in the slot, then manoeuvre the wheel arch into position. It fits against the side of the heart body like this. It's a bit of a game getting it to sit in the correct position, but it will go with a bit of persuasion and some robust adult language! The front screw hole tab will line up with the recess on the rear body when the wheel arch is correctly located. Then secure the wheel arch with 3 screws. Repeat on the other side. Now we come to fitting the rear body to the car. I'll give this to you exactly as it happened as I suspect that other people have had the same problem. Put a couple of pieces of masking tape ont eh rear body hinges to hold them flat. Otherwise they hang down and are difficult to get into the correct position. Put the rear body in position and secure it with masking tape. Fix the two hinges to the rear body with a screw in each. They locate with a screw and a pin, so it's easy to get teh screw in once the pin has located. You need a fairly thin screwdriver as you have to drive the screw at a slight angle because the rear body gets in the way. Turn the car back the right way up, and admire the beautiful body taking shape, apart from the horrendous panel gap! It's OK, we can fix this! There are two possible places where the fit can be poor and cause the excessive panel gap. The first is where the boot compartment is fitted into the rear body. However, I described how to remove the mould lines and burrs to make sure this fitted properly in stage 94 so that shouldn't be the problem. The second place for error is fitting the silencer support plate to the rear sub-frame in stages 29/30 (Pack 4). Remove the rear body, and the silencers. Check to see how the silencer support plate is fitting to the rear frame. On mine, you can see how the support plate mounting bracket is sitting proud of the rear frame. It's difficult to see as it's black agains black, but the tip of the screwdriver is resting on the support plate bracket. That should be flush, but it's sitting 2-3mm proud. Here's a winder angle shot so you can see the location more easily. I removed the support plate, and this burr and excess paint is stopping the support plate bracket sitting in its hole properly. So, I removed the purr, removed the excess paint, and test fitted it. I actually had to remove all the paint and chamfer the corners of the support plate. I also had to de-burr the screw posts and remove excess paint from the rear frame. DOn't worry about all the metal showing. Virtually all of this is where the two parts join so it's visible once assembled. You can easily touch in and visible silver with a little semi-gloss black paint after assembly in necessary. Also check that the support plate isn't fouling on the back of the differential. I had to file back the support plate a little to make sure I had some clearance. The brackets now fit flush. And the bottom also fits flush. Reassemble the silencer support frame along with the silencers. Refer to Pack 4, stages 29 & 30 for details on this assembly. Refit the rear body as before, and now we have a really nice fit. Check that the rear body opens nicely. This completes the stage.

The Agora model is far more detailed and refined. The engine is the only major assembly so far, but it's far better than the old EM version which is quite blocky. Wayne built the Eaglemoss version a while ago, so it's easy to compare the two. You'll soon see the difference when Agora give parts for the engine bay and front suspension. That was hideous on the old EM version.

Fitting the door limit switches is somewhat difficult. Here's a method that may make it a little easier. Take the limit switch and feed it through the larger hole in the frame, as per the instructions. Pull the wire through a bit a form a loop. Push this loop back through the smaller hole behind where the limit switch will sit. Put the limit switch in approximately the right position. The switch 'finger' points up and towards the front of the model. Now pull on the loop of wire directly away from the switch. This should seat the switch into its correct position. You need to be firm enough to pull the switch into position, but be careful not to break the wires. The switch should now be neatly seated in its proper position. Add the switch plate to hold it in position, then make sure that the finger operates as the door is closing. Finally, pull most of the loop of wire back.

Stage 94 gives us the rear body reinforcement and rear grille, and we continue to assemble the rear body. Put the speaker into position in the boot compartment with the wire fed through he square hole in the left side of the compartment. Secure the speaker with the speaker bracket and a couple of screws. Turn the compartment over and fit the rear body hinge. This hinge is non-functional so don't worry if it seems too flimsy to take the weight of the rear body. It will only go one way, with the hinge bar inclined towards the reversing light. Her's a view from another angle. Now we need to install the boot compartment in the rear body. This is fitted with two screws, one on either side. I noticed that the screw posts seemed to have a burr or moulding mark which would stop the boot compartment locating properly and may cause alignment problems with the rear body. These can easily be removed by using a 3mm drill to remove the burr and chamfer the edge of the hole. Turn the drill by hand. Do Not use a power tool as you could easily drill too deep and wreck the rear body. Put the boot compartment in place and secure it with a couple of screws. Be careful not to trap the speaker or LED wires. Fit the reinforcement structure with a couple of screws. Turn the rear body over and push the rear grille into place. It takes quite a firm push to get it to fully locate. Secure the wires inside etc rear body with a length of masking tape. This completes the stage.

Stage 93 gives us the boot compartment cover and speaker, but we assemble to boot compartment itself and fit the tail lights. Take the boot compartment and self adhesive foam from stage 92. Stick the foam over the speaker grill. Take the reversing light body and lens from stage 92 and push them together. The lens can go either way round. Push the reversing light into the two holes on the boot compartment. The lens faces away from the speaker grill. Screw the boot compartment profile to the compartment with a couple of screws. Take the tail light LEDs, lenses and bodies supplied earlier. Push the light body and reflectors into the recesses in the rear body. Secure them in place with a screw in each from the inside, then push the LED into position. The LEDs need a firm press with a tool such as a small screwdriver to get them to seat fully. Be careful of the wires! The LEDs should locate firmly, but can by glued with superglue if necessary. Finally, push the lenses in place. These need a good push to get them to local firmly. The lens should only protrude 2-3mm proud of the light body. If it's much more, then the lenses aren't fully inserted. This completes the stage.

Stage 92 gives us the rear boot compartment and rear light lenses, but we fit the rear licence plate and grill. We start by assembling the licence plate lights. These were supplied in stage 90. Remove any flash from the lenses then they just push on to the light bodies. The straight edge of the lens faces towards the light body. Be careful as they can be fitted the wrong way round. Push the lights onto the rear body and secure them with screws from inside the rear body. Take the 3 parts to the licence plate. Push the plate into the mounting bracket. Fit the trim. Again, it's a press fit. Next we need to fit the rear grille. This is fitted from the inside and is secured with 4 screws. It looks like this from the outside. Take the licence plate assembly and fit it to the rear body. It's secured with a couple of screws from the inside. This completes the stage.

Up to now the build of the black and red edition has been identical, apart from the front spoiler. Pack 7 finally gives us some more black parts. As before, I won't bore you by repeating all Mark A's assembly steps, but will just show the key stages that show off the Black Edition finish. Stage 49 gives us the left rear side panels. Fit the cover plate to the lower rear left side panel. Fit the cooling fan assembly to the lower left rear side panel assembly, then add the upper rear left side panel. Stage 50 gives us the rear right side panels. Assembly is virtually a repeat of stage 49. The assembled side panel looks like this.

Stage 91 gives us the rear grill & license plate, but we install the rear bulkheads and start to assemble the rear lights. Take the left rear reflector and housing and press them together. Take the right rear bulkhead. This photo should roughly where it fits. Inspect the front of the rear body. There are two holes. The bulkhead fits in the hole closer to the bottom of the photo. The hole in my part had some raised mould marks that needed filing off. I finished off by using a 3mm drill to debug the hole. Don't worry about these scratches as they are covered by the bulkhead. The slot where the back of the rear bulkhead fits also needed some mould marks/flash removing. You can touch in any visible scratches with black paint. Push the bulkhead into place and secure it with a screw. It must be fully located to avoid any potential fit issues later in the assembly. Repeat with the other bulkhead. Oddly, there was a lot less flash on this side. Fit the right hand reflector into the light cluster housing. This completes the stage and the pack. Just one more pack to go!!

Stage 90 gives us more of the rear lighting, but we fix the boot lid. You'll need the parts supplied in stage 87, and the type T screws from stage 88. Put the hinge in place on rear body. They are not marked left or right, but they can only be fitted one way round. Secure the hinge by screwing the bracket in place. Repeat on the other side. Put the boot lid in place and hold it with some strips of masking tape. The yellow tape is well camouflaged by the yellow paintwork! 🤦‍♂️ Turn the rear body over and screw the hinges to the underside of the boot lid. Remove the tape and check that the boot lid can hinge up easily. Replace the masking tape and that completes the stage.

Stage 89 gives us the rear body bulkheads and the left rear light, but we fit the front wheel arches. You will need the front wheel arches supplied in stages 82 & 83 along with the screws supplied in stage 85. The wheel arches need to be flexed slightly to get them into position. Insert the front end first then you'll be able to get the rear end to snap into place. The front end of the wheel arch is held with 1 screw. The rear end is held with 2 screws. Repeat with the other wheel arch. Fit the tyre to the wheel. These parts were supplied in stage 86. No need to soften the tyre with hot water, the rubber is soft enough to flex over the wheel rim. This completes the stage.

Stage 88 gives us the rear body, but we install the eye lashes and bonnet reinforcement framework. Take the upper grille and spring clip from stage 85. Fit the spring slip to the grille. It should go roughly in the middle, but doesn't seem to matter exactly which slot it goes in. The longer end of the clip goes towards the front of the grille, with the square ends. Make sure that the longer end of the spring clip is hooked over the body. Now prise the shorted end over the body. This is quite difficult but can be done using some persuasion from a small flat screwdriver blade. The fitted grille looks like this from the pretty side. Next fit the headlight eyelashes. These are different top and bottom so make sure you get them the right way round. A drop of superglue can be used if they don't want to stay in place. Carefully bend the wires at the back of the headlight down again the back of the headlight housing to stop them fouling against the eye lashes. Check that the headlights can pivot up smoothly. Fit the reinforcement structure inside the front body. Secure it with two screws through the cross bar. This completes the stage.

Stage 87 gives us the boot lid, but we install the front body grilles. Take the front grille and the grille support, and push them together. Pins on the support fit into holes in the grille. Push the grille assembly into the front of the front body. The same pins that hold the grille locate in holes in the front body to secure it. Excuse the bottle of superglue. It's supporting the body so I could get a better light on the front grille. Here's a close up. Take the upper grilles that were supplied in stage 85 and select the one with the rectangular recess. This clips into the grill support, but you will probably need to remove any flash or mould marks to get it to fit nicely. Insert it from the top. This is how the grill clips into the support. Make sure that the grille can hinge upwards. This completes the stage.

Stage 86 gives us another wheel, but we fit the front right fog light and indicator. Fitting the front fog light and indicator is a repeat of the previous stage. It looks like this when you've finished. This completes the stage.

Stage 85 gives us the bonnet grills and headlight eyelashes, but we fit the front left fog lights an indicators. Take the fog light reflector and lens and push them together. Push the fog light into position from inside the front body. It looks like this from the outside. Push the left indicator into the small hole. The indicator is angled to sit against the body without a gap, so twist it to get the correct alignment before pushing it fully home. This completes the stage.

Stage 84 gives us the front grill, but we fit the front and rear bonnet hinges. The front hinges fit in the front of the front body, underneath the headlights. You can see the slot where the hinges will go. Fit the two hinges with screws. Take the internal frame detail supplied in stage 81 and push it into the slot in the reinforcement structure. Take the rear bonnet hinges from stage 81. They are fitted to the rear subframe. Note that the protruding boss goes towards inside of the car. Fix these in place with long type G screws. This completes the stage.

Stage 83 gives us the front right wheel arch, but we fit the headlights to the front body. Put the supplied parts away safely while we fit the headlights to the front body. Place the headlight cross bar in the brackets inside the front body. Take the two support plates. They have tabs on one side. These tabs will face inwards. Fit the two support plates to the brackets with a couple of screws. The headlights should sit nicely in the front body. Make sure that they can pivot up to the working position. Take the bonnet grill support and screw it to the inside of the front body. Take the front bonnet hinges supplied in stage 81. Be careful to get them the right way round. This close-up shows how the left hinge goes together. The right hinge is a mirror image. I found that I needed to sand the paint and mould lines off the hinge to get a smooth fit. Screw teh two hinges together with the long type G screws. Make sure that they pivot freely. This completes the stage.

Stage 82 gives us the front left wheel arch, but we assemble the headlights. Be careful to store the parts carefully as the orange indicator lens is very small! Take the headlights and clip the lenses in place. This close-up shows which way round the lenses go. Take the LED and push it into the back of the headlight housing. Use a pair of tweezers or smooth jawed pliers as it takes a firm push and you don't want to risk damaging the wires. The base of the LED should be flush with the housing. Repeat with the second headlight. Screw the headlights to each end of the support bracket. This completes the stage and the pack.

Stage 81 gives us more of the bonnet reinforcing structure, but put these parts aside as we are going to assemble the parts supplied in stage 78. Take the reinforcing frame and the left support. Screw these two parts together. Repeat on the other side. Fit this assembly to the assembly completed int eh previous stage. Screw teh assemblies together with four screws. Two each side. Take the two perforated plates and press them together. Push this into the slot in the large bulkhead. It doesn't locate very precisely, but I'm not gluing mine until a later stage when I can make sure the position is correct. This completes the stage.

Stage 80 gives us the bonnet, but we start to assemble the bonnet reinforcing structure. The bonnet is gorgeous! However, put it away for now, safely protected as we don't' want to scratch it! Time to start building the reinforcing structure using parts that were supplied in stage 77. Be careful with the next step as it's possible to get it wrong. Take the left (as shown in the photo) side bar and insert the large bulkhead. The large hole is on the left. Then insert the smaller central cross bar into the side bar. The recess should point upwards and the lips should point backwards towards the large bulkhead. Now fix the other side bar. Then the side bars are fixed to the large bulkhead with a couple of screws. This completes the stage.

It was on a Facebook post teaser, and perhaps also their news letter. Just teaser photos, but it looked like a Ferrari gear lever and a Lotus Esprit console. I've no idea when they will be available for pre-order though.