Mark, The Master Modeller

Stage 91 gives us the rear grill & license plate, but we install the rear bulkheads and start to assemble the rear lights. Take the left rear reflector and housing and press them together. Take the right rear bulkhead. This photo should roughly where it fits. Inspect the front of the rear body. There are two holes. The bulkhead fits in the hole closer to the bottom of the photo. The hole in my part had some raised mould marks that needed filing off. I finished off by using a 3mm drill to debug the hole. Don't worry about these scratches as they are covered by the bulkhead. The slot where the back of the rear bulkhead fits also needed some mould marks/flash removing. You can touch in any visible scratches with black paint. Push the bulkhead into place and secure it with a screw. It must be fully located to avoid any potential fit issues later in the assembly. Repeat with the other bulkhead. Oddly, there was a lot less flash on this side. Fit the right hand reflector into the light cluster housing. This completes the stage and the pack. Just one more pack to go!!

Stage 90 gives us more of the rear lighting, but we fix the boot lid. You'll need the parts supplied in stage 87, and the type T screws from stage 88. Put the hinge in place on rear body. They are not marked left or right, but they can only be fitted one way round. Secure the hinge by screwing the bracket in place. Repeat on the other side. Put the boot lid in place and hold it with some strips of masking tape. The yellow tape is well camouflaged by the yellow paintwork! 🤦‍♂️ Turn the rear body over and screw the hinges to the underside of the boot lid. Remove the tape and check that the boot lid can hinge up easily. Replace the masking tape and that completes the stage.

Stage 89 gives us the rear body bulkheads and the left rear light, but we fit the front wheel arches. You will need the front wheel arches supplied in stages 82 & 83 along with the screws supplied in stage 85. The wheel arches need to be flexed slightly to get them into position. Insert the front end first then you'll be able to get the rear end to snap into place. The front end of the wheel arch is held with 1 screw. The rear end is held with 2 screws. Repeat with the other wheel arch. Fit the tyre to the wheel. These parts were supplied in stage 86. No need to soften the tyre with hot water, the rubber is soft enough to flex over the wheel rim. This completes the stage.

Stage 88 gives us the rear body, but we install the eye lashes and bonnet reinforcement framework. Take the upper grille and spring clip from stage 85. Fit the spring slip to the grille. It should go roughly in the middle, but doesn't seem to matter exactly which slot it goes in. The longer end of the clip goes towards the front of the grille, with the square ends. Make sure that the longer end of the spring clip is hooked over the body. Now prise the shorted end over the body. This is quite difficult but can be done using some persuasion from a small flat screwdriver blade. The fitted grille looks like this from the pretty side. Next fit the headlight eyelashes. These are different top and bottom so make sure you get them the right way round. A drop of superglue can be used if they don't want to stay in place. Carefully bend the wires at the back of the headlight down again the back of the headlight housing to stop them fouling against the eye lashes. Check that the headlights can pivot up smoothly. Fit the reinforcement structure inside the front body. Secure it with two screws through the cross bar. This completes the stage.

Stage 87 gives us the boot lid, but we install the front body grilles. Take the front grille and the grille support, and push them together. Pins on the support fit into holes in the grille. Push the grille assembly into the front of the front body. The same pins that hold the grille locate in holes in the front body to secure it. Excuse the bottle of superglue. It's supporting the body so I could get a better light on the front grille. Here's a close up. Take the upper grilles that were supplied in stage 85 and select the one with the rectangular recess. This clips into the grill support, but you will probably need to remove any flash or mould marks to get it to fit nicely. Insert it from the top. This is how the grill clips into the support. Make sure that the grille can hinge upwards. This completes the stage.

Stage 86 gives us another wheel, but we fit the front right fog light and indicator. Fitting the front fog light and indicator is a repeat of the previous stage. It looks like this when you've finished. This completes the stage.

Stage 85 gives us the bonnet grills and headlight eyelashes, but we fit the front left fog lights an indicators. Take the fog light reflector and lens and push them together. Push the fog light into position from inside the front body. It looks like this from the outside. Push the left indicator into the small hole. The indicator is angled to sit against the body without a gap, so twist it to get the correct alignment before pushing it fully home. This completes the stage.

Stage 84 gives us the front grill, but we fit the front and rear bonnet hinges. The front hinges fit in the front of the front body, underneath the headlights. You can see the slot where the hinges will go. Fit the two hinges with screws. Take the internal frame detail supplied in stage 81 and push it into the slot in the reinforcement structure. Take the rear bonnet hinges from stage 81. They are fitted to the rear subframe. Note that the protruding boss goes towards inside of the car. Fix these in place with long type G screws. This completes the stage.

Stage 83 gives us the front right wheel arch, but we fit the headlights to the front body. Put the supplied parts away safely while we fit the headlights to the front body. Place the headlight cross bar in the brackets inside the front body. Take the two support plates. They have tabs on one side. These tabs will face inwards. Fit the two support plates to the brackets with a couple of screws. The headlights should sit nicely in the front body. Make sure that they can pivot up to the working position. Take the bonnet grill support and screw it to the inside of the front body. Take the front bonnet hinges supplied in stage 81. Be careful to get them the right way round. This close-up shows how the left hinge goes together. The right hinge is a mirror image. I found that I needed to sand the paint and mould lines off the hinge to get a smooth fit. Screw teh two hinges together with the long type G screws. Make sure that they pivot freely. This completes the stage.

Stage 82 gives us the front left wheel arch, but we assemble the headlights. Be careful to store the parts carefully as the orange indicator lens is very small! Take the headlights and clip the lenses in place. This close-up shows which way round the lenses go. Take the LED and push it into the back of the headlight housing. Use a pair of tweezers or smooth jawed pliers as it takes a firm push and you don't want to risk damaging the wires. The base of the LED should be flush with the housing. Repeat with the second headlight. Screw the headlights to each end of the support bracket. This completes the stage and the pack.

Stage 81 gives us more of the bonnet reinforcing structure, but put these parts aside as we are going to assemble the parts supplied in stage 78. Take the reinforcing frame and the left support. Screw these two parts together. Repeat on the other side. Fit this assembly to the assembly completed int eh previous stage. Screw teh assemblies together with four screws. Two each side. Take the two perforated plates and press them together. Push this into the slot in the large bulkhead. It doesn't locate very precisely, but I'm not gluing mine until a later stage when I can make sure the position is correct. This completes the stage.

Stage 80 gives us the bonnet, but we start to assemble the bonnet reinforcing structure. The bonnet is gorgeous! However, put it away for now, safely protected as we don't' want to scratch it! Time to start building the reinforcing structure using parts that were supplied in stage 77. Be careful with the next step as it's possible to get it wrong. Take the left (as shown in the photo) side bar and insert the large bulkhead. The large hole is on the left. Then insert the smaller central cross bar into the side bar. The recess should point upwards and the lips should point backwards towards the large bulkhead. Now fix the other side bar. Then the side bars are fixed to the large bulkhead with a couple of screws. This completes the stage.

It was on a Facebook post teaser, and perhaps also their news letter. Just teaser photos, but it looked like a Ferrari gear lever and a Lotus Esprit console. I've no idea when they will be available for pre-order though.

Stage 79 gives us the headlights, but we fit the doors. Make sure that the door switch cable is laying over the top of the hinge. Feed the connector and cable through the opening in the body. And in front of the cockpit floor. It will need to go on front of the cockpit floor and under the cross member into the circuit board housing. Be careful not to damage the cables connected to the brake and accelerator pedals. Fix the door in place with a couple of screws. The finished door looks like this. Repeat with the other door. Carefully turn the model over and connect the two door switch connectors. This completes the stage.

Stage 78 gives us more of the bonnet structure, but we fit the rear frame. Offer the rear frame to the central body. The rear frame connects with 4 screws. Two at the bottom of the model. Two near the top of the rear frame. This should fit easily if you did the test fitting I suggested at the beginning of stage 75. Take the two upper tie rods that were supplied in stage 76. You need to identify which is left and which is right. Please them with the nut and bolt mouldings (as opposed to the bolt head) facing up. The upper rod is the left hand one. Take the right hand tie rod and insert the upper end in the slot in the top of the body. Insert the tab in the bottom end of the tie rod into the slot in the rear frame. The nut and bolt moulding must go to the inside. The bolt head points outside. Repeat with the left hand tie rod. This completes the stage.

Stage 77 gives us the bonnet interior structure, but we fit the cockpit and do a bit of wiring. We start this stage by connecting the dashboard cables. The indicator switch is connected first. Feed it under the crossmember, and connect it to socket 1. These connectors only go in one way round, and they are quite stiff so need a firm push. Continue with the horn switch, instrument panel LED and Dashboard LED. These go into connectors 2, 7 and 8 respectively. Before fitting the cockpit, I secured teh cables with a bit of masking tape to keep them from getting trapped or tangled. Before fitting the cockpit, VERY carefully bend the foot pedal cables down. They are very fragile. Fit the cockpit into the body. Put the rear end in first, then lower the front. Be careful not to trap either the key switch cable in the cockpit, or the interior light cable. Feed the foot pedal wires in front of the cockpit floor as you push the front down. They go under the crossmember and into the circuit board housing. The cockpit is secured with 4 screws. Two at the back, although the photo only shows one side. Two at the front. Again, only one side is shown. Connect the cables as follows. The accelerator in connector 3, the brake in connector 13, the key switch in connector 6 and the interior light in connector 16. This completes the stage.

I hate to say this, but it's already been done! Comag released Amazing Dinosaur Discoveries about 8 years ago which was a T Rex build-up. Here's a Youtube link to a review of the first mag. Having said that, I'd be happy to do the official build if Agora were to buy the rights!

Stage 76 gives us the circuit board. Before starting assembly, check that the instrument light LED is securely fixed in the dashboard. If it's not tight, fix it with a drop of superglue. Otherwise it will fall out after you've fixed the front subframe in place and you'll have to disassembly everything to put it back. Go on, ask me how I know!!! Offer up the dash to the central body. It's secured with two screws the go into the bottom of the front of the body. Once fitted it looks like this. Take the circuit board and remove the protective caps from teh connectors. These can be discarded. Fit the board into the recess in the bottom of the front subframe. Note that connectors 13 to 16 go closest to the steering rack. When handling the board, hold it by the edges to reduce the risk of stating electricity damaging the board. Now we fit the front subframe to the central body. This should be easy as we've had a practice and sorted out any fit problems. Make sure that you don't trap any of the dashboard wires. Fit the two screws under the front of the body. I found it best to fit drive these screws fully home as they pull the front subframe into place and help line up the other two screws. Now fit the other two screws below where the door hinge will go. The model is upside down in the photo below. We connect the steering column next. Turn the steering wheel so that the half of the joint is facing up. Then carefully place the steering column on the joint, ensuring that the pin goes in the hole. Place the half of the joint supplied in this stage on top of the universal joint, ensuring that the pin locates in the hole. Then fix it with a screw. Make sure that the steering wheel turns the wheels. The wheels only turn a small amount, not as far as they would on the real car, but this is a compromise necessary as you can't scale the steering rack mechanism. This completes the stage and is a bit of a milestone!

Stage 75 gives us the fuel pumps and front subframe reinforcing plates. Before we make a start on pack 10 I'm going to suggest that you test fit the front frame and rear frame on the central body. It's easier to do this now and carry out any minor adjustments needed before the dashboard and cockpit assemblies are fitted. Then you know that these parts will fit when you do come to fit them. Try fitting the front sub-frame to the central body. The bottom parts of the body should line up. The top of the firewall should be very close to the bottom of the front valance. There should be almost no gap. I found that the central body was a bit tight and the bottom (The areas where the bottom of the door front edge will be.) had to be sprung out a bit. It didn't need any filing, and it sprung out quite easily because of the U shape of the body.. Make sure that the holes under the front valance line up. Make sure that the screw holes in the side line up as well. Remove the front subframe when you're satisfied that it will fit properly. Now try fitting the rear subframe. There are two pairs of screws. One pair are near the bottom of the front of the subframe, and one pair are at the top of the front of the frame. Make sure that these all line up properly. I found that the ones at the bottom of the rear subframe lined up easily. The ones at the top of the rear subframe were a bit more difficult. I needed to sand some paint and mould lined off the rear subframe and the screw post. I also needed to drill out the holes in the central body assembly a little. Not much more that just clearing out the excess paint from the hole. This must be kept to an absolute minimum or it could lead to a poor panel fit with the rear hood. Once you're happy, remove the rear frame assembly. This preparatory work will make future assembly much easier. Now, on with stage 75. Take the right reinforcement plate. It's identified by having 4 holes. The left plate has 5 holes. Remove any mould marks and flash, and fit it on the right hand side of the front frame. The top must be flush with the fire wall or the front frame won't fit on the body properly. Take the left plate and fit it on the left side of the front subframe, and again, the top must be flush with the top of the firewall.. Take the two fuel pumps and fit them to the bracket. The tops of the fuel pumps are domed and the bottoms are flat. Remove any burrs from the pins that will be used to connect the fuel lines. Note that the pins on the bracket go to the right of the fuel pumps when viewed from the back. Take the two red Y fittings and fit the long and short pipes to them. Now fit the fuel pipes to the fuel pumps. You will need to expand the pipes with a cocktail stick and glue them in place as the pins on the fuel pumps are a little short and fat. Pump the fuel pump bracket pins into the holes in the right reinforcement plate. Bend the pipes round and insert them in the holes in the front frame. I shortened my pipes a bit to get a more pleasing bend to the pipes. This completes the stage.

Not quite. Push it in to sound the horn and pull it towards the steering wheel to switch on the front and rear lights. A second pull will turn them off again. Have a look at the instructions at the end of Pack 12 as that gives full details of the electrical functions.

Stage 74 gives us the spare wheel. Fit the tyre onto the wheel. This can be fitted by hand. No need to soften the tyre in hot water. Screw the spare wheel support onto the front subframe. Now push the spare wheel over the support. It needs a very firm push, but it does definitely click into place. I suggest placing a finger under the subframe, directly under the spare wheel support, to support it while pressing the wheel in place. You risk breaking the frame otherwise. It's a tight fit, and it must have been a right game trying to get the spare wheel out if you needed to use it. This completes the stage and the pack.

Stage 73 gives us more details for the front subframe. De-burr the holes as before with a 2-3mm drill bit. The two bonnet latches are in bags marked L & R. However, I couldn't see any difference between them. Regardless, I did fit them on the correct sides. Here's the right one. This is the left one fitted. The bonnet support buffers are fitted, one each side. This is the left side. This is the right side. The voltage regulator and relay box are pushed into the holes in the frame. This completes the stage.

Stage 72 gives us more details for the front subframe. Before we start assembling this stage, de-bur all the holes on the front subframe. Simply take a 2-3mm drill and give is a few twists by hand to bevel the hole slightly. Don't be tempted to use a power tool (Dremel type) as that's far too aggressive for this task. This will make it easier to insert the pins of the components as they are fitted. You can also remove any mould lines from the pins of the parts. The observant will notice that this is the right side of the car; I only realised that the burrs were making it difficult to insert the pins after I'd started assembling the stage. Fit the relay box. Assemble the clutch and brake reservoir onto the mounting plate. The instructions say to mount it like this, but it's actually easier to mount the wipe motor first. So I removed the clutch and brake reservoirs and fitted the wiper motor. Then re-fitted the reservoirs. They were a bit wobbly so were glued in place. Then I fitted the indicator relay. This completes the stage.

Stage 71 gives us the cooling pipes for the radiator and the mounting stays. Take the right pipe and push it into the hole in the right side of the radiator. Now fit it over the pins on the bottom of the front subframe. I found these to be quite stiff and needed a very firm push. Take the left hand pipe and push it into the hole in the left hand side of the radiator. Again, push the tabs on the pipe over the pins on the bottom of the subframe. Push the two radiator tie rods (stays) onto the radiator and front subframe. These benefit from a drop of superglue as they tend to fall off with handling. This completes the stage.

Stage 70 gives us the second half of the radiator, and we get to fit it. Place the two fans on the upper half of the radiator. The fans have a square corner and a rounded corner. The rounded corner goes on the clockwise side. Place the grills over the fans. The opening goes to the left and the radiator mounting lugs are at the top. The grills have 2 pins in them which locate in the grill. Carefully turn the assembly over and secure the grills with a couple of screws. Now we come to mounting the radiator on the front subframe. It's a bit awkward getting the screws in. I'd suggest pre-threading the holes in the front frame, and also insert the screws in the mounting lugs before putting the radiator in place. Edit: Before fixing the radiator in place, sand the paint of the top of the screw posts on the front sub-frame. This will lower the radiator a little and allow the front body to close properly on the finished model. Then, using a long cross head screwdriver, screw the radiator in place. This completes the stage.