Mark, The Master Modeller

Stage 12A gives us the first parts for the front left wheel. The instructions start by fitting the tyre valve, but I left this to the end of the wheel assembly. Fit the outer rim onto the jig, ensuring that the pin on the jig goes inteh hole in the rim. Take 24 small pieces of double sided tape and stick them inside the rim. Then remove the backing paper. These will hold the spokes while you assemble the wheel. Fit the first part of the hub in the centre of the jig. Again, there is a pin to locate this. Take a spoke type 2 (The type 1 spokes look like an elongated U. The type 2 spokes look like and elongated S) and insert if through the lowest hole in the hub. Then place it in the appropriate notch in the rim and press it onto the tape. Repeat this with another 11 spokes to complete the first row of spokes. Now we need to complete the next row of spokes. This is done in the same manner with type 2 spokes, but these are inserted in the 3rd row of holes from the bottom of the hub. They lean clockwise rather than anti-clockwise. Now place the central ring on the rim to hold the spokes in place. This is secured with 3 screws. Note that the notches on the central ring and the outer rim must line up. Now we complete the 3rd row of spokes. Use the type 1 spokes and insert them through the 2nd row of holes from the bottom of the hub. The ends of the spokes just rest in the notches of the central rim. There is no need to use and double sided tape. The 4th row of spokes uses the type 1 spokes and they are inserted through the top row of holes in the hub. Here's a close up showing the ends of the spokes resting on the central ring. Secure these with the second central ring. The second central ring has a peg that lines up with a notch in the first central ring. This second central ring is secure with 4 screws. This completes the stage.

Stage 11 gives us the second set of valve covers. Screw the two valve cover bases to the engine. The two covers are different so make sure you get them the right way round as per the photo below. Fit the two valve covers to the bracket with a couple of screws. The screws are inserted from teh underside. Press this assembly onto the valve cover bases. This completes the stage.

Stage 10 gives us a bracket for the valve covers and the wiring for the plug leads. Take the valve covers supplied in stage 9 and join them with the valve cover bracket. THey are fitted with screws from underneath. Fit this to the engine. It's pressed into place. Take the two wire covers (they look like silver rods with brackets) and screw them to the eninge. The plain ends go to the outside of the engine. The black plastic tubes all need to be fitted now, but they all need trimming to length. Push one end over th pin of the spark plug. Now trim the tube to length and push the other end over the pin on the wire cover. Repeat this for all 16 plug leads. This completes the stage.

Here's a Top Gear clip with James May driving LaFerrari. Talk about having the best job in the world!!

Love the amazing attention to detail!

Stage 9 gives us the valve covers. The valve cover bases are screwed to the cylinder heads. The engine plate is readable if you use a magnifying glass, or have better eye sight then me!!! Apologies for the colour cast, my camera didn't like the lighting. Screw this plate to the valve cover. This completes the stage.

Stage 8 gives us the second set of cylinder head parts. This is mostly a repeat of stage 7 so I'll be brief. Assemble the cylinder head and two covers. Insert the 8 spark plugs. Insert the four fuel injectors. Add the cylinder head base and screw in place. Screw this assembly to the engine assembly. The pipe from the fuel injection module goes into a hole in the cylinder head between the first two fuel injectors. This completes the stage.

Stage 7 gives us the first set of cylinder heads. This photo shows the three parts you need for the initial assembly, laid out as they will be assembled. Insert the first cover in the cylinder head. This is secured with two screws from underneath. Then insert the second cover. This is also secured with two screws fro underneath. Press the 8 spark plugs into place. Now press the 4 fuel injectors into place. Fit the cylinder head base to the bottom of the assembly and secure it with 2 screws. This cylinder head assembly can now be secured to the engine block with 2 screws. This completes the stage.

Stage 6 gives us the magnetos. Take magneto part a (6A) and screw the drive shaft (PTO shaft) to it. Now screw magneto part C (6E) to the drive shaft. Press magneto part D (6F) onto magneto part C. Place this assembly on the engine. The drive shaft fits in a hole in the crank case and magneto part A is screwed to the post on the engine block. The final part of the magneto, part B (6B) is pressed into place. The two brackets (6C) are fitted to the magnetos. They are secured with the two pins that are pressed into the magnetos. The magneto support is pressed into place. However, you may wish to leave this loose as it tends to snag during subsequent assembly. This completes the stage.

Stage 20 gives us the front section of the body. Nothing to assemble in this stage, but feel free to admire the beautiful lines on the body. You can be forgiven for drooling a little! I've left mine in the plastic packaging to help protect it. This completes the pack, and I can't wait for Pack 4!

Stage 19 gives us the lower panel for the engine block and some other detail parts. Push the lower panel in place. Cut the 4 cam cover knobs from the sprue. Push these into the holes in the cam covers. Take the lateral components and press them into the holes on the left side of the distributors. This completes the stage, but take a moment to admire the gorgeous lookikng engine that you've just created!

Stage 18 gives us the lower engine block. Take the gearbox and place it against the engine. Secure it with 2 screw fitted from the inside. Now fit the lower part of the engine block, securing it with 4 screws. This completes the stage.

Stage 17 gives us the left side of the engine block and we will fit the carbs. Take the left cylinder head assembly and screw it to the left side engine block. The carbs are trapped between the two cylinder heads. Make sure that you have the carbs the right way round. There are pins on one side of the carbs and they must face outwards when the distributor is to the left. Here's a close up showing the carbs fitted so you can see which way round they go. The instructions suggest removing the trumpets for the next step, but I found this unnecessary. Put the carbs in position against the left cylinder head, then put the put the right cylinder head in position. Screw the two halves of the engine block together. Here's the front screw. Here's the rear screw. This completes the stage.

Stage 16 gives us the remaining carbs. Assembly of the carbs is the same as the previous carb, so I'll be brief. Fit the carb connectors to the bases and screw them together. Fit the centre section of the carbs. Push the upper section of the carbs onto the assemblies. Fit the trumpets, remembering that the flats butt against each other. This completes the stage.

Stage 15 gives us the left cylinder head and cam cover. This is a repeat of the previous cylinder head/cam cover assembly so I'll be brief. Take the remaining cam cover nuts from stage 8 and fix them to the cam cover. Again, I drilled the holes a little deeper and glued them in place with superglue. Fit the remaining distributor tot he cylinder head. Fit the cam cover to the head and fix it with screw from underneath. This completes the stage.

Stage 14 gives us the inner panel and hinge for the left door. This is a repeat of the right door, so I'll be brief. Insert the hinge and secure it with the mounting plate. Fit the pipe to the inside of the inner door panel. Fit the panel insert to the outside of the inner panel. Push the inner panel onto the door assembly. This completes the stage and the pack.

Stage 13 gives us the window and frame for the left door. The steps for this are a repeat of the right door, so I won't bore you by repeating myself in any great detail. Remove the protective film and insert the windows into the frame. Screw the frame to the door to complete the stage.

Stage 12 gives us the inner panel and hinge for the right hand door. Insert the hinge in the door. Put the mounting plate on the hinge and screw it in place. Take the black pipe that was supplied in the previous stage and push it over the pins inside the door panel. Take the panel insert that was supplied in the previous stage and push it into the hole in the door panel. Push the door panel onto the door to complete the stage.

Stage 11 gives us the window and frame for the right door. Remove the protective film from both sides of the window. Insert the window in the rear half of the frame. The notches go to the top and bottom, but the window will only go in one way anyway. Remove the protective film from the front window and fit that in the frame. The front window goes on the outside of the rear window. The instructions do refer to them as the inner and outer windows. Make sure that the front window can slide. back a bit. Screw the frame to the door assembly. This completes the stage.

Stage 10 gives us the start of the right hand door. Push the door handle into the door. Screw the internal frame into the door. It's secured with 3 screws. This completes the stage.

Stage 9 gives us the first set of carbs and the right side engine block. Push teh carb connectors onto the carb base. They only fit one way round. Screw them together with a screw. Add the two central sections. These are not a tight fit as they will be held in place by the upper sections. Fit the upper sections to the assembly. These are a tight fit and need a firm push. Add the four trumpets. These are quite tight and need a firm press. THere are flats on the trumpets. The flats should butt up against each other. Screw the cylinder head to the block. It's secured with two screws. This completes the stage.

Stage 8 give us the right hand cam cover. Cut the cam cover nuts from the sprue with sprue cutters or a craft knife. I used a No 11 scalpel blade, which is my preferred knife for modelling. Be careful as these nuts are tiny and the carpet monster just loves to eat them! Luckily Agora has supplied us with some extras! I found that the holes in the cam cover were a bit too shallow, or I left the pins too long..... I drilled out the holes with a 0.8mm drill bit in a pin vice to make them deeper, then superglued the nuts in place. Put the cam cover on the cylinder head, then secure it from below with a couple of screws. This completes the stage.

Pack 2 will see us start construction of the engine! Stage 7 gives us the distributors and the first cylinder head. Fit the distributor bodies to the bases. There's a slot and tab to make sure the alignment is correct. They are secured with a screw inserted through the distributor body. Push the caps onto the distributors. Again, a tab and slot arrangement is provided to ensure correct alignment. Fit one of the distributors to the cylinder head. This completes the stage.

Stage 6 gives us the remaining seat and seatbelt. First we add some more detail to the gearbox. Take the joint and the front cover and press them together. Press this assembly onto the gearbox. Take the support bar and insert it into the rear floor pan. This is a repeat of the support bar B in Stage 5. I.e. Insert the bottom first and flex the bar to insert the top. Add 3 seat belt hooks to the floor. The holes are D shaped, but not very clearly defined, so make sure that the flat of the d faces tghe rear of the model. Add the two seat stoppers. These are brackets that support the back of the seat. Make sure you get the left and right sides the right way round. They just slide through the slots for the moment and are left free to move. Take the sea belt and hook it to the eye in the back corner by the transmission tunnel. Fold the seat belt out of the way over the transmision tunnel and fit the seat in position. It's held with 2 screws inserted from under the floor. Slide the stoppers into the slots in the back of the seat. Now finish clipping the seat belt in place. Repeat the process to install the passenger seat. This completes the stage and the pack. I've put the gearbox in place, just because I can!

Stage 5 gives us the rear floor pan and some nice details. Push the upper panel onto the gearbox. Push the lower panel onto the gearbox. OK, that's gearbox finished for now. Let's move on to the floor pan. Take the rear floor pan supplied in this stage and the front floor pan already assembled. These are joined together with three screws. Here are the positions of the screws. Take the support bar B and insert it inthe floor pan. The angle of the ends makes it obvious which way round it goes. Insert the bottom first then flex the top into place. It has to be flexed quite a lot, but it will go. Push the two belt hooks into the rear floor. They will only go one way round thanks to the D shaped pin and hole. Here's a close-up. Turn the floor pan over and insert the rear supports. Again, here's a close-up. They look like this from the top. Take the oil filling pipe and push the length of hose over the pin. Push the filling pipe into its hole in the upper part of the rear floor pan, then push to hose over the nearby pin. Turn the floor pan upside down and secure the filling pipe with a screw. Fit the handbrake base next to the transmission tunnel. The open end faces forwards. Push the hand brake lever in place. Take the two support bars A and fit them to the upper part of the rear floor pan. As with the previous support bar, the angle of the ends are different so the bar only goes one way round. Insert the bottom first, then flex the bar to get the top pin in its hole. This completes the stage.