Mark, The Master Modeller
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Posts posted by Mark, The Master Modeller
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Stage 68 gives us various details for the front subframe, but we fit the cross bar that was supplied in stage 67.
Fit the fuse box and teh relay box to the front cross bar. Mine needed a little superglue to fix them.
Push the battery isolator switch onto the crossbar.
Feed the battery cables down the side of the battery and out under the front subframe. The left one went fairly easily. The right one took a bit of fiddling to get it through the gap, but a pair of tweezers soon helped it find its way.
Put the cross bar in pace and secure it with a couple of screws.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 67 gives us the front cross bar and some details, but we fit the front brakes.
If you haven't already done so, assemble the front brake discs. The two halves push together.
Fix the steering arms (track rod ends) to the hubs with the type F screws supplied in stage 60.
Take the left inner brake caliper and press it onto the pins on the hub. You could use a little superglue if the fit is a bit loose.
Put the brake disc in place.
Now push the caliper outer halve in place.
Repeat on the right hand side.
This completes the stage.
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You only need add 1-2ml of oil. I.e. About 20 drops. It takes at least 30 seconds for the smoke to start, but as with the real tank, there is only a small amount of smoke from the exhaust. Don't expect don't expect dense white smoke as that would be unrealistic.
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Stage 100 gives us the final decals and the battery cover.
Apply the decals to the model. The process is the same as before, but take care to remove any air bobbles carefully. These large decals are more prone to trapping air bubbles. Use decal softener when necessary.
I started with the two side fairing decals. First the left side decal. Get the decal to align with the decal on the door as close as you can.
Here's the right side fairing decal.
The front Porsche logo is places on the pencil guide marking on the front of the car. This decal seemed a little odd. It slide off the backing paper after a few seconds of soaking, but it seemed to stick to the paintwork and didn't want to slide. I lifted it with tweezers and placed in down note correct position. Perhaps, they used a different type of glue, or perhaps I had a rogue decal. Anyway, it went on and stuck with no problems.
Decal on the top of the rear hood went on without problems.
Now fit the bonnet (front hood cover) using the hood cover locks supplied in stage 82. They just push in and can be pulled out easily when you want to show off the under hood detailing.
Insert two AAA batteries in the battery box.
Fit the battery box lid and turn on the model.
Pressing the light switch will light the head and tail lights, and also the instrument light.
Pressing the brake pedal will light the brake lights, but I couldn't find anything that would reach the brake pedal!
Pressing the horn button sounds the horn and pressing the starter button plays the sound of the engine starting up.
I did find that the rear spoilers (parts 94A & B) didn't like staying tight against the rear hood, so I glued these in place. Just a little superglue applied to the underside to keep them in position.
That completes the model. If you've been building the model, I hope you've enjoyed it as much as I have.
Here are some beauty shots of the finished model.
I did decide to remove the headlight protectors. I think the model looks cleaner like this, but it's less authentic.
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Stage 99 gives us the bottom panel.
Retrieve the speaker that was supplied in stage 34 and place it on the bottom panel. Note which way the wires lead out.
Secure the speaker with the clamp and a couple of screws.
Fit the on/off switch to the bottom panel with a couple of screws. It doesn't particularly matter where the cable lies as long as it doesn't foul the screw posts or the battery box.
Turn the bottom panel over so it's the correct way up, then connect the speaker cable.
Tuck the speaker cable out of the way so it can't be seen and doesn't get in the way of anything.
Notice that screw holding the front of the silver fuel tank? If you haven't done so already, remove it. One of the bottom panel screws will go in that hole.
Tuck the switch connector out of the way as well.
Put the bottom panel in place so that the screw holes line up and use 5 PM type screws in these holes.
6 BM screws (3 each side) are used to secure the sides of the bottom panel.
This is the bottom panel screwed in place.
Now I'll fit the wheels. You'll need the plastic washer, screw and wheel nut for each wheel.
There is a slot in each brake disc and there is a matching tab on the inside of the wheel to locate the brake disc properly.
Put the wheel in place, making sure that the tab drops into the slot in the brake disc. Drop the washer in the wheel centre and secure with a screw. Don't over tighten the screw.
Push the wheel nut onto the centre of the wheel.
Four wheels on my wagon!
Apply the Gulf-Porsche decal to the rear hood panel. Some decal softener will help the top of the decal go round the top edge of the panel.
Fit the rear hood to the model.
The hood support can be used to hold the hood open. You may need to adjust the screws holding the bottom of the support to get the top end to fit in its recess.
This completes the stage.
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I've received the replacement fuel lines now. Unfortunately I overlooked taking a photo of the new lines before I started to fit them, but you get a length of black plastic tubing, and a short and longer length of silver plastic tubing.
If you have glued any of your fuel pipes I would strongly recommend that you don't try fitting this replacement tubing as you will end up breaking the locating pins as you try to pull the pipes off! It's possible to fix this, but it's very difficult to do it neatly. The model looks great without the modified plumbing. While the plumbing may be more accurate once modified, I don't suppose anybody but the most enthusiastic Porsche 917 enthusiasts would spot the inaccuracies.
First, on the left chassis plate, remove the 2 braided pipes and the thin black pipe, already removed, but indicated by red lines. It's probably obvious, but I'm a much better modeller than I am Photoshop artist! You can see where two of the pins have broken off where the braided pipes were glued in place!
To fix the broken pins, replace them with a short piece of brass rod. 1.5mm dia. for the braided pipes and about 1mm for the smaller pipes. Cut the remnants of the broken pin off flush, then drill a hole that you can glue the brass rod into. Start with a smaller drill, then drill the final hole to size. It's easier to drill a smaller hole accurately! You'll also need to make sure you remove any burrs from the brass, and rub the brass with sandpaper to give the glue a good key. You'll also need to drill the broken pin out of the pipe connector.
Here's a pin I fitted to the fuel filter.
Moving to the right hand chassis plate, we need to disconnect all three braided file lines (drawn in red), and also the silver plastic pipe (removed, but drawn in green). One of the braided pipes from the fuel filler neck needs to be refitted on the Y connector. You'll notice that this has a pin fitted to the fuel pipe as the pin broke off the Y piece.
Here is the braided fuel line reconnected to the Y connector.
Now we need to fit the new pipe 93D. This goes from the rear of the right chassis plate to the fuel filter. Here is the connection on the right chassis plate, highlighted with red.
Here's the connection onto fuel filter.
Pipe 93E goes from the fuel pump on the left chassis plate to the fuel manifold.
Pipe 93F is the black pipe that goes from the fuel filler neck to the fuel manifold cap on the left chassis plate.
Here's the connection to the filler neck.
Here's the connection to the cap on the fuel manifold. A bit difficult to get a decent photo as it's hidden behind other pipes.
These are the pipes that you will have removed and can be discarded.
This completes the re-plumbing.
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Stage 98 gives us the door sills and trims.
This iso a nice easy stage. Push the driver's door sill in place.
Now push the trim in place. This is the more rounded of the two trims. The cockpit housing will flex a bit as you push it in place but don't worry about this.
Push the passenger door sill in place. You will need to slide the back end under the voltage regulators first.
Then the front end will clip down in place.
Finally, push the passenger door trim in place. Again, the cockpit housing will flex a bit as you clip it in.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 97 gives us the right side fairing.
Assembly of this side is virtually the same as stage 96.
The brackets are all identified by their numbers engraved one the parts.
Fit the 4 brackets, upper bracket and front plate. As with the left side plate, leave the brackets not quite fully tightened so that they can be twisted slightly to align the screw holes.
Put the fairing in place, clipping the upper edge over the chairs/chassis plate.
Fix the upper bracket with a screw fitted in the hole in the cockpit housing.
Fit the bottom brackets, twisting the brackets if necessary to align the screw holes.
Remove these two screws from the top of the wheel arches and replace them with the counter sunk screws SM supplied in this stage. The round headed screws may stop the rear body closing properly.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 96 gives us the left side fairing.
There are 3 different, but similar brackets, type 1, 2 & 3. They can be identified quite easily as the numbers are engraved on the parts.
Fit 2 type 1 brackets to the rear of the fairing. These brackets should all be left very slightly loose. Tighten them so you can twist them with a bit of resistance. This will make it much easier to align the screw holes when you fit the fairings to the car.
Fit a two 2 bracket to the front of the fairing. Again, only tighten them just tighten enough so you can twist them with some resistance.
The type 3 bracket goes in the middle. Again, tightened so that it can just be twisted.
The upper bracket goes to the top of the fairing. This brackets also needs to be able to twist a little with some resistance.
The front plate is fitted with a couple of screws.
Fit the fairing to the model. It will clip definitely into place as the top lip clips over the chassis plate and chassis.
The yellow wire should come out the bottom of the chassis in front of the fuel tank.
Screw the top bracket in place in the hole in the left cockpit housing.
Screw the bottom 4 brackets in place. You'll probably need to twist them just slightly to get the screw holes to line up.
Remove the screw that is holding the back of the fuel tank. This screw isn't needed now and it will interfere with the bottom panel.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 95 gives us the cockpit vent pipes and we also fit the front body.
Fit the two halves of each pipe together. They are fitted with a single screw, but I'd also secure the other ends with a drop of superglue. Mine opened up slightly after I'd installed them, so please benefit from my experience!
Take the chassis and secure the seat belts if you haven't already done so. I used a drop of PVA to make sure that they stayed in place.
Secure the wires for the headlights with masking tape to keep them out of the way.
Take the front body and tape those headlight wires with masking tape to keep them out of the way too.
I finally removed the front body brace.
It's worth pre-threading the holes for the screws holding the front body. One right at the front.
One by the grills over the wheel arches.
This is where it starts to get fiddly! The cockpit vent pipes are definitely challenging to fit!
This first one isn't too bad. It will go under the dashboard like this.
Fit it to the front vent, but don't glue it yet. It needs to be able to flex a bit in order to get the front body in place with the pipe going under the dashboard.
Put the front body in place on the chassis while feeding the vent pipe in through the dashboard.
Note that the rear screw posts go behind the fire wall. It's a bit tricky getting the vent pipe through chassis under the dashboard and getting the back of the front body behind the firewall, but it can be done. Get the vent pipe in position, then lift the rear of the front body over the firewall and hope that the vent pipe doesn't drop off the vent under the bonnet.
When you're satisfied that everything is in place, fix the body with 6 screws. These go in fairly easily. The front and rear ones are obvious, and the ones by the grills are fitted from under the wheel arches. You'll need to remove the front wheels if you've fitted them.
The vent pipe can be seen in the corner of the bonnet opening. I'd suggest applying a little superglue to where the pipe joins onto the vent and it can come off. Put a drop of superglue on the end of a cocktail stick and place it against the join. Capillary action will draw the glue into the joint.
Next connect the headlight cables. Tuck them out of the way so they aren't too visible.
The shortest pipe comes next. This is the hardest one, but improvising a special tool makes it easier.
Take a piece of brass rod and bend around the pipe into a semicircle. You will also need a small flat bladed screwdriver.
Put the pipe in place as best you can. You can now hook the brass hook behind the pipe, press onto pipe with the screwdriver blade, and you can now manoeuvre the end of the pipe over the end of the vent duct in the front body. Again, glue this pipe to the vent as it falls off quite easily!
The two pipes disappear under the dashboard like this.
The last pipe goes on the other side of the car and isn't too difficult to fit. The brass hook helps, and don't' forget to glue it in place to ensure it stays put.
This is how it disappears under the dash.
The pipes are just left open under the dash. Not a brilliant photos, but it's really difficult getting the camera and light under the dash to take a decent photo.
This completes the stage, and apologies for the dodgy colour balance on the photo. I hadn't spotted it until after I'd taken the photo.
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On 11/18/2023 at 2:06 PM, Farfel said:
I'm not sure whether this is common knowledge, but in case its not: Detailing the IXO 1/8 Mercedes W196R
Just for info, the guide is behind a paywall. The cost is about $12. I haven't seen it so can't comment further.
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I'll second that! You're doing an amazing job!
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On 11/30/2023 at 2:42 PM, Pete said:
Hi all, did anyone else run into this. My frame has 3 posts coming down from the cross member over the rear dif. The center one interferes with the installation of the differential housing.
That looks like a manufacturing defect to me. Contact customer services and ask for their advice and a replacement.
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Stage 94 gives us the rear spoilers.
The brackets on the spoilers are hinged, but the hinges are quite stiff. If the brackets don't line up, gently twist them with tweezers or fine pliers until they do.
Screw the left hand spoiler in place on the rear hood panel with 2 screws in each bracket.
Repeat with the right hand spoiler.
Fix the rear hood panel to the rear hood using 4 screws. 2 in each side.
The spoilers can be adjusted on their hinges. Move them up until the front of the spoiler meets the back of the rear hood.
Push the hood light onto the hood, with the white lens pointing forwards.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 93 gives us the panel for the rear hood and some replacement fuel pipes.
Unfortunately my fuel hoses were missing from the pack, so I'll have to come back to them later. My fuel pipes are all glued in place, so I may find that trying to remove them will spoil the model. If so, I'll leave them as they are. I glued them before I saw this pack, hence my red edit to the relevant stages in the official build. Agora have now added a note to stage 69 advising builders not to glue the fuel lines.
Push the locks onto the lock bases. You may need to scrape the silver paint and/or mould lines off the pins to get them to fit without a gap.
Fit the lock bases to the rear hood panel with a couple of screws.
They look like this from the front.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 92 gives us the rear centre spoiler.
This is a nice easy stage. The two parts of the centre spoiler just push together.
Turn the rear hood upside down and slide the spoiler into the slots. Then secure it with a couple of screws.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 91 gives us the rear hood air ducts and a clear green plug.
Fit the left hand duct to the hood with a couple of screws.
Repeat with the right hand duct.
Take a ring of double sided tape, remove the backing paper and stick it to the green plug.
Remove the other backing paper.
Apply it to the inside of the hood. Note that the flat goes against the lip on the rear hood.
It will look like this from the outside.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 90 gives us the rear body.
We're on the home straight now, and this stage gives us the first glimpse of how impressive the finished car is going to be.
Firstly, attach the hinge clamps with 2 screws in each.
The outer side of the hinge clamp is stepped up.
Apply the clear tape to the front body between the hinge clamps. This will protect the paintwork while you test fit the rear body.
Angle the rear body upwards about 45 degrees, and slide the hinges under the hinge clamps.
The body can now be dropped down flat and the hinges clamps will hold the hinges in place.
This completes the stage, and the model is now getting too big for my cutting mat. You may get to see the embarrassing mess of my workbench outside the cutting mat!
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Stage 89 gives us the details for the right hand door.
Much of this assembly is the same as the left hand door in stages 86 and 87. I'll be a little brief here, so refer back to those stages if you need a more in depth description of the assembly.
We start by assembling the door lock.
Push the long pin through the lock, then drop the smaller spring over the pin.
Drop the latch over the spring and then secure it with the short pin.
Push the lock release over the end of the long pin. I found that mine didn't grip that securely, so I put a tiny drop of super glue in the hole in the latch. You need to be very miserly with the glue as you don't want any excess dripping into the lock mechanism.
Make sure that the lock mechanism operates smoothly, then screw it to the inside of the door.
Push the door light onto the door, noting that the white lens points forwards.
Push the vent window on to the main window.
Now screw the window assembly to the door.
That's the door complete, now we can turn our attention to the hinges.
Fit the lower hinge with the metal clamp. As before, the shorter screw must be driven home and tight, but the longer screw with the spring must not be fully tightened as the clamp has to be able to lift against the spring.
Fit the upper hinge with 2 screws.
Now put the door in position and close the latch so it's flush with the body. Then you can screw the hinges to the door.
The door should look like this from the outside.
Check that it opens and closes smoothly.
This completes the stage and the pack.
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Stage 88 gives us the right hand door which needs a decal applying. The hinges are also provided but these are used in the next stage.
Apply the decal so that the bottom edge is aligned with the bottom of the door. The bottom of the decal should also be in the middle of the bottom edge of the door.
Apply the decal in the usual way by soaking in water until it will slide off the paper easily. The door has a slight compound curve on it, so using decal softener will help the decal confirm to this curve without wrinkling. Refer to stage 82 for a detailed description on how to use decal softener. You can see a few wrinkles in the photo below if you look carefully.
The decal should look painted on once it dries out.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 87 gives us some details for the left hand door and we will attach the door to the front body.
Push the vent window onto the main window.
Screw this to the left door with 7 small screws.
Put the lower hinge in place.
Secure it with the clamp and a screw type RM that goes in the hole closest to the door. I found the this screw definitely needed a bit of oil to get it to drive fully home. This screw needs to be tight.
Put the spring over a type NM screw and screw this into the other hole in the clamp. I needed to loosen the RM screw so that I could get these holes to align. Don't lubricate this screw, and only screw it down far enough so that it just compresses the spring. The clamp must be able to move up against the spring to hold the door open and closed.
Place the upper hinge in position.
Secure it with the clamp.
Put the door in position and engage the door lock so the door is flush with the body.
Screw the two hinges to the door.
THe door should look like this from the outside.
Check that it opens and closes smoothly.
Push the rear view mirror in place.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 86 gives us the left door lock and hinges. There are some small, fiddly parts in this stage. Be careful not to lose any of them.
Take the long pin and insert it in the lock. Be careful as it will fall out quite easily.
Place the spring over the pin.
Place the latch over the spring.
Insert the shorter pin through the other hole in the lock to secure the latch.
Push the lock release over the end of the longer pin. This should finally hold the longer pin in place. When you push down not he lock release the latch should pivot outwards.
Screw the lock assembly to the inside of the door.
It should look like this from the outside.
Finally press the door light in position. Note that the white lens points forwards.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 85 gives us some details for the front body.
Push the front air scoop in place.
It looks like this from the top.
Screw the two door lock catches in place. They are marked L & R.
Push the windscreen wiper in place. You'll need to remove flash and mould lines from the pins to get it to go in easily.
Push the rear view mirror bracket onto the mirror housing.
Remove the backing paper from the mirror and put the mirror in place. It's self adhesive.
Now peel off the clear protective film. Put the mirror to one side to fit later.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 84 gives us the top roll cage.
This simply screws in place under the roof of the from body.
This completes the stage.
Pack 9 - Stage 69. Radiator panel (I).
in Pack 9 - Lamborghini Miura
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Stage 69 gives us the first half of the radiator panel, but we fit the front subframe details supplied in the previous stage.
Take the two screw covers supplied in the previous stage.
They cover the screw heads near the top of the shock absorbers. These push into place, but they aren't a very secure fit. I'd glue them in place with a little superglue or PVA. Otherwise they are likely to fall out while you're handling the front frame, then you ned up spending hours trawling the carpet looking for them. Ask me how I know!!
Screw the tank tube to its support.
Push the tank cap onto the tank tube support.
Push this assembly onto the front frame. THe support fits into three holes in the crossbar, and the other end of the tube fits into a hole in the front frame assembly.
Assemble the two parts of the master cylinder. They push together.
This pushes into two holes under the rear of the left front wheel arch.
This completes the stage.