[W196R Pack 5 - Stage 15. Ignition wiring and plumbing.]

Stage 15 gives us the wiring for the magnetos, fuel and oil lines and the cooling manifold.

First, we need to remove the fuel pump assembly so we can fit the cooling water manifold.  Remove the two screws holding it.

Push the manifold in place.

Now you can replace the fuel pump assembly.

I'm going to do things in a slightly different order from the way the instructions tell us. The instructions tell us to wire up the magnetos first, but think the thick black pipes will get in the way, so I'm going to leave them until last.

I'll start with the fuel lines, 15D.  These are the four that are all the same length.

Push them onto the pins on the fuel injectors.

Feed these four lines through the holes in the fairlead.

Push the other ends of the fuel lines onto the pins on the fuel pump.

The remaining four fuel lines are pushed onto the pins of the other four injectors.  The lines are different lengths.  The shortest is fitted to the injector nearest the centre of the engine, and the longest ones goes to the rear end of the engine.

These are now fitted to the fuel injection pump.

Here's a closer view of the injection pump connections.

The oil pipe connector is fitted to the engine block.  I glued mine in place.

There are two oil pipes to connect to this connector.  The first goes near the centre of the engine, between cylinders 5 & 6.

The second goes to the rear of the engine, near cylinder 8.

The other oil pipe connector is fitted near the upper magneto.  Again, I glued mine in place.  Pipes are connected to this later in the build.

Now, back to the wiring for the magnetos.  One of my wires had a kink in it. 

I did think that I might need a replacement, but actually the fix is quite easy.  There is an inner rubber rod that is slide into the outer tube, and this has slide up a bit allowing the tube to kink.  Just push it back down with thin round tool.  I.e.  Small paint brush handle, screwdriver blade or needle file handle.

Now it doesn't kink any more.

Take the shorter cable and push the ends onto the pins on the upper magneto.

Feed the cable under the fuel lines.

Push it onto the plug lead cover.

Take the other cable and push the ends onto the lower magneto.

Feed this up and under the fuel lines.

Push the end onto the plug lead cover.

This completes the stage.

 

[W196R Pack 5 - Stage 14B. Front tyre, easy wheel.]

Stage 14B gives us the front tyre for the easy wheel.  

This is almost identical to the regular wheel.  Soften the tyre in a bowl of very hot water and ease it over the wheel rim.

The plastic spacer goes in the back of the wheel hub, but it will fall out, so store it safely.

The washer and hub cap (spinner) push on the front of the hub, but again, I suggest keeping them safe for now to avoid losing them.

This completes the stage.

[W196R Pack 5 - Stage 14. Front tyre regular wheel.]

Stage 14 gives us the tyre for the regular wheel.

Soften the tyre in a bowl of very hot water and then ease it over the wheel rim.

The plastic spacer hub sits inside the wheel hub.  However, it will fall out so I suggest just keeping it safe for now.

The washer and hubcap (more usually called a spinner) are pushed onto the hub.  However they will come off quite easily so I suggest keeping them stored safely for now.

This completes the stage.

 

[Titanic Pack 15 - Stage 86. Upper hull section.]

Stage 86 gives us the hull section with the upper half of the window on the engine room.

Again, we fill the two screw holes with countersunk screws.

Fix the hull section with two screws.

This completes the stage and the Pack.

[Titanic Pack 15 - Stage 85. The next lower hull section.]

Stage 85 has us back working on the hull.  This section of hull has the opening so you can see the engines and engine room.

Screw two screws into the holes in the hull section.  For once, I have no idea why we are just filling these holes with screws.  

Now fit the hull section to the hull with two screws.

This completes the stage.

 

[Titanic Pack 15 - Stage 84. Cabin bulkheads.]

Stage 84 gives us the bridge deck cabin bulkheads and another LED board.

Start by gluing all the window frames in place.

Screw the brackets to the bulkheads.

Now fit the bulkheads in place.

Turn the deck over and clip the LED board in place.

This completes the stage.

[Titanic Pack 15 - Stage 83 Some details for the bridge deck.]

Stage 83 gives us some bulkheads and an LED board.

Screw the brackets to the two bulkheads.

Screw these bulkheads to the front of the bridge deck.

Screw the remaining four brackets to the parapet.

Fit this to the front of the bridge deck.

It looks like this from the top.

Turn the part over and fit the LED board to the bottom.

This completes the stage.

[Titanic Pack 15 - Stage 82. Second section of the bridge deck.]

Stage 82 continues the bridge deck.

First, we join the two sections of the bridge deck together. 

the two parts are held together with 6 screws on the underside.

Glue the two joining pieces in pace with superglue.

Clothes pegs will help keep them in place while the glue cures.

Finally, fit the two pieces of self adhesive decking.  Again, I applied a few drops of superglue near the outer edges to save any risk of them curling up.

This completes the stage.

[Titanic Pack 15 - Stage 81. Start of the bridge deck.]

Stage 81 sees that start of the bridge deck.

First, take the closing plate and screw in the opening in the bottom of the promenade deck.

It looks like this from the top.  The promenade deck can be set aside now.

The next task is to fit the self adhesive decking.  I've found that occasionally the self adhesive decking has curled up at the edges.  This isn't a problem on the promenade deck as either the superstructure will hold it down, or you can just run a little super glue under the deck if it's by the edge.  However, the outer edges of this decking will be inaccessible so I've pre-empted the possibility by putting a few small drops of superglue near the edges.

Now remove the backing paper and putthe decking in place.  Mine was a little tight on the width and needed a gentle pull to get it to fit.

This completes the stage.

 

[Dorsal cover won't stay.]

You probably haven't push the switch in far enough.  Mine took a fair bit of force to push the switch fully into its socket.

You can see when the switch is fully seated as there is no gap between the switch bezel and the surrounding plastic.  

[Titanic Pack 14 - Stage 80. Starboard side upper hull section.]

Stage 80 gives us the upper hull section that goes above the section fitted in the previous stage.

Fit the hull section with the screws and washers as before.

This completes the stage and The Pack.

[Titanic Pack 14 - Stage 79. Starboard section of hull.]

Stage 79 gives us another section of hull for the starboard side.

Fit the lower hull section in place with a screw and washer.

This completes the stage.

 

[Titanic Pack 14 - Stage 78. Another section of hull.]

Stage 78 gives us the upper hull section to be fitted above the section fitted in the previous stage.

Put the hull section in place and secure it with the hex socket headed screws.  Place a washer under each screw.

This completes the stage.

 

[Titanic Pack 14 - Stage 77. Another section of hull.]

Stage 77 gives us the fifth hull section for the port side.

Put the hull section in place and secure it with a hex socket headed screw and washer.

This completes the stage.

[Titanic Pack 14 - Stage 76. First class smoking room.]

Stage 76 gives us the first class smoking room.

This stage has a bit more work involved.  Start with a window frame marathon.

Once all the frames are in place you can fit the first class smoking lounge to the promenade deck.  

Note how the bulkhead fits between the service ares and the stairwell panelling.

The fitted structure should look like this.

Glue the two support frames in place.  Use tiny amounts of superglue and make sure that the frames are properly seated on the deck, or the deck above might not fit properly.

I used the end of a steel rule to make sure they are upright.  Both sides are the same.

Turn the deck over and fit the small LED board at the aft end of the deck.  The cable is connected to socket J2 on the adjacent board, 75C.

Connect a cable from J3 of board 75C to J3 of board 74C,

Connect J2 on board 74C to J1 of board 73E.

Connect J3 on board 73E to J3 on board 72A.

Connect the tester to J2 of board 72A and check that all the light work.

It looks even better with the lights out!

This completes the stage.

[Titanic Pack 14 - Stage 75. Service area and corridor.]

Stage 75 gives us the service area and corridor for the promenade deck.

This is quick a quick stage.  In fact most of this pack is quite a quick build.

Start by gluing the window frames to the service area.

Screw the service area to the promenade deck with 4 screws.

Turn the deck over and clip the LED board in place.  It's fitted just aft of the aft stairwell.

This completes the stage.

[Titanic Pack 13 - Stage 74. First Class Lounge.]

Stage 74 gives us the first class lounge.

This stage is another window marathon!  Start with the small rectangular windows as these are the easy ones, but make sure you get them the right way up.

Some of the larger windows need to be curved.  The easiest way to do this is to roll them gently over a round tool such as a screwdriver handle or screwdriver blade.

Try to get the curve to match the curve of the bulkhead.

Finish off by fitting the arched windows.

Screw the First Class Lounge to the promenade deck with 12 screws.

Glue the superstructure support to the deck with some tiny drops of superglue.  Make sure you don't get any superglue on the decking.

I used the end of a rule to make sure it was upright.

Turn the deck over and fit the LED strip.

This completes the stage and the pack.

[Titanic Pack 13 - Stage 73. First Class Entrance and Cabins.]

Stage 73 gives us the First Class Entrance and Cabins.

The first task is to glue in all the window frames.  All 52 of them!  Superglue and a cocktail stick is the order of the day.  That and a bit of patience!

Here are 4 of the 8 large frames.

And a few of the 44 small frames.

It should look like this when it's done.

It should look something like this when it's finished.

Now screw the assembly to the deck with 10 screws.

The view from the front.

Glue the wind breaks in place.  This is the port side, just repeat on the starboard side.

Put the LED strip in place.  There is an LED that sticks out the front that slides into the stair well.

Push the strip forward and clip it in place.

Now we can test it, although the instructions don't mention it.

Here's the stair well LED.

This completes the stage.

[Titanic Pack 13 - Stage 72. Promenade Deck Details.]

Stage 72 gives us some details for the promenade deck.

Turn the assembled promenade deck over and clip the LED board in place.

Now fit the staircase.  It's secured with three screws, but there are also two pins to locate it in the deck.

Turn the deck back the right way up and insert the panelled bulkhead section.  You may like to glue this in, but it should be held by the deck above when it's finally assembled.

Glue the 4 benches in place.  Note that these must face inwards.

Glue the ventilator in place.  (The second class entrance is already fitted as I worked out of sequence.)

Glue the six etched window frames in place on the second class entrance.

Turn the deck over and screw the second class entrance in place under the stern of the promenade deck to complete the stage.

[Titanic Pack 13 - Stage 71. Promenade Deck Aft Section.]

Stage 71 gives us the last section of the promenade deck.

Carefully stick the self adhesive deck to the plastic deck.  Pay careful attention get it lines up correctly.  This needs more care than previous deck sections because of the horseshoe shape.

Take the previously assembled promenade deck and fix this to it with 4 screws.

It looks like this from the top.

This completes the stage, and the promenade deck.  It's now way too big to be photographed just on the cutting mat!

 

 

[Titanic Pack 13 - Stage 70. Promenade Deck Section Three.]

Stage 70 gives us the third section of the promenade deck.

Stick the starboard side of the deck in place.

Stick the port side of the deck in place.

Take the previously assembled forward section of the promenade deck and join it to this third section with 4 screws.

This completes the stage.

[Titanic - Pack 13 - Stage 69. Promenade Deck Section Two.]

Stage 69 gives us the second section of the promenade deck.

Firstly, stick down the port side self adhesive deck.  Pay attention to line it up carefully.

Then stick down the start card side deck.

Turn the deck over and screw the staircase in place.

It looks like this from the top.

Take the first and second sections of the promenade deck and join them together with 4 screws.

This completes the stage.

 

[My take on the Porsche 917K]

Im really enjoying the extra detail you’re adding to the model. 
I'm a fan of Tamiya panel liner too.  

[250 GTO Pack 1 - Stage 2. Dashboard and driver's door.]

On 4/17/2024 at 8:03 PM, Foster said:

I gotta say ... those little lenses proved a challenge trying to get the protective film off both sides.  They got a little scuffed up in the process but it's not really noticeable.  Finished up all 6 stages of Pack 1 today.

Sidenote - who's in charge of our 'status' on profiles?  I've completed the 917 and working on the 250 now ... shouldn't I be an Agora "Elite" now on my badge?

Yeah, those little lenses were a bit fiddly!

Looks like you are an Elite member now.

[Ferrari 330 P4 IXO]

Oh, that’s nice!  I hope Agora add it to their catalog.