Mark, The Master Modeller
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Posts posted by Mark, The Master Modeller
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Stage 68 gives us the forward bulkhead for the promenade deck.
Screw the two connectors to the bulkhead.
Pay attention to the pins and holes that connect the two parts together. These seem to have been overlooked in the instructions.
Screw the connectors to the bottom of the promenade deck.
Now clip the pins on the bottom of the deck into the holes in the bulkhead.
The bulkhead looks like this from the top.
And like this from the front.
Finally, screw the cross support to the hull.
This completes the stage and the pack. I put the foredecks in place, just because I could. However, I don't recommend doing this as the deck clips in place and is difficult to remove without damaging it!
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Stage 67 sees the start of the promenade deck.
This instructions tell us to start with the forward section of decking, but..........
Now fit the starboard side decking.
And we end up with a gap, despite me being quite careful to get the forward section central. Therefore, I'd suggest fitting the starboard side decking first, then butting the forward section against it.
I did manage to carefully peel the front section off and refit it, but it was a bit nerve wracking.
Now we can fit the port section of decking.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 66 gives us the next upper hull section.
Screw the bracket to the hull section.
Now screw the hull section to the starboard side.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 65 gives us another hull section and we add some more details to the boat deck.
Take the two tan sections of pipe supplied with stage 60. The first one is glued to the port side of the third funnel. Apply glue to the pins on the bottom and press it into place. I also applied small spots of glue to the back of the pipes to hold them firmly against the funnel.
Repeat with the other pipe on the starboard side.
Take the pipe supplied in stage 63 and glue it to the rear of the fourth funnel.
Glue the ducts, also supplied in stage 63, to the front of the fourth funnel.
Glue the two benches to the back of the boat deck, noting that they are facing forwards.
Take the smaller wheel house roof and push it in place. The instructions suggest not gluing this so you can remove it to view the inside of the wheelhouse.
Repeat with the second larger roof.
Take the hull section and fit it to the starboard side with one cross head screw and one Allen screw.
It looks like this from the outside.
Fit the bracket to the port side.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 64 gives us another hull section, but we virtually complete the boat deck assembly. There's quite a lot of work to do!
Start by lining the aft of the forward superstructure with the reflective stickers that were supplied in the previous stage.
Remove the long white foam stickers from the two LED boards.
Replace these with the shorter ones from stage 61. They should cover the middle 2 LEDs.
Prepare to attach this superstructure to the boat deck. Feed the wires thorough the holes as shown.
I now hold the superstructure in place with 2 or 3 AP screws. The instructions would have you do this a few steps later, but it will save the superstructure falling off and driving you mad!
Turn the assembly over and connect the lighting wires. The smoke generator wires are left loose for now.
Connect the forward LED wire from the superstructure to connector J4, and connect the jump wire supplied in stage 48 to connector J3.
On the middle LED board, connect the wire from the superstructure to J2. Connect the other end of the jumper wire to J1.
Connect the jumper wire supplied in stage 43 to J3.
On the aft LED board connect the jumper cable to J2.
Connect your test module to the spare socket on aft LED board and check that all the LEDs work.
Also check the superstructure and funnel lights.
Take the last foam self adhesive sticker and use it to cover the hole that cable 53A comes though. Be careful not to cover the LED. This is just aft of the square cover.
Now you can finish securing the superstructure with the remaining screws. There are 12 in total.
Take the two sets of piping supplied with stage 60. The first is fitted on the starboard side, between the funnel and the deck house. The instructions say to glue this on, but I found that it clipped in place firmly.
The second set of piping is fitted to the post side.
Glue the vent from stage 60 over the second set of pipes.
Fit the fourth hull section to the port side and secure it with 4 screws. These are Allen headed screws so you'll need your Allen key.
It looks like this from the outside.
Fit the cross support between the two brackets and screw it in place.
This completes the stage. This is only the front section of the hull and already it's getting too big to photo on the cutting mat!
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Stage 63 gives us another section of hull, some reflective stickers and some other details.
Let's start with the hull. Screw the bracket to the starboard side of the hull with a couple of screws.
Fit the section of hull to the port side. It's fitted wiht one cross headed screw and one Allen screw.
It looks like this from the outside.
Taek the reflective sticker sheet and remove the windows to make life easier.
Take the deck house from stage 51 and line the inside with the reflectivge stickers. These are best applied with tweezers.
Screw the deck house to the boat deck with 4 screws fitted from underneath the boat deck.
Take the third funnel and line the base with reflective stickers.
Place a white foam sticker (supplied in stage 61) over the two middle LEDs.
Now we need to fit the funnel assembly to the boat deck. Feed the two cables through the holes in the boat deck as shown.
I secured the funnel to the boat deck with a couple of AP screws to stop it falling off and annoying me! Connect the lighting cable to sockets J1. The smoke generator cable is left loose for the moment.
Now connect this LED circuit board to the adjacent board with the cable supplied in stage 54.
Connect your test board and check that the LEDs all work. (sorry about the focus - I didn't notice it at the time)
Also check that the lights in the funnel base also work.
Take the dinghy tarpaulins and clip them on place on the dinghies by the first funnel.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 62 gives us the keel section C and a bracket.
This is a nice easy stage. Fit the bracket to the inside of the hull with a couple of screws. The printed instructions call these AP, but you are supplied with AM screws which is correct as they are screwing into metal.
Fit the keel section to the hull with 2 large headed screws.
This completes the stage and the pack.
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Stage 61 gives us the last batch of lifeboats and some reflective stickers, etc.
There is quite a lot to do in this stage. We will start by placing two of the white foam stickers. I guess these are to block out the light from the LED as it was too bright. Just a guess.....
Anyway, the first sticker goes over the floor of the second class entrance.
The second sticker goes just forward of the skylight.
Now we need to line the second class entrance housing with reflective stickers. First peel the windows off the sticker sheet. If you don't do this the windows come up with the stickers, and are really difficult to remove without wrecking the stocker.
Stick the stickers inside following the sequence in the instructions. There are quite a few stickers, so I'm not going to show fitting each one!
Push the entrance housing onto its mount on the boat deck and secure it from underneath with a couple of screws that were supplied in stage 60.
Take the fourth funnel base and line it with reflective stickers.
Take a white foam sticker and place it over the two middle LEDs on the circuit board.
Take the fourth funnel and the first class smoking room, and feed the llighting cable through the hole as shown.
Put the funnel assembly in place and secure it with 4 screws from underneath.
Now place this assembly on the boat deck, feeding the wire through the hole as shown.
I held this together with 1 screw while I connected the wires and tested it.
Fit the plug in socket J2.
Now take your test board and connect it to socket J3 and confirm that the LEDs all light up.
Check that the smoking room lights and funnel lights are also working.
Now you can finish fitting all the screws to hold the smoking room to the boat deck.
Take 3 davit bases, 3 type C1 davit arms and 3 type C2 davit arms.
Assemble these in the same way as before to make 3 sets of davits.
Take the remaining davit bases and arms and make 2 single davits. Make sure you make a left and right hand pair.
Glue these 5 sets of davits to the boat deck.
Turn the boat deck over and fit the cover in the square hole.
Clip the tarpaulins to the cutters. Don't glue them yet.
Assemble the lifeboats. You'll need the two lifeboats supplied in stage 50 & 52 as well as the parts supplied in this stage. Clip the parts together but don't glue them.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 60 gives us the entrance to the second class area.
You'll need the etched window frames that were supplied with stage 51. Cut 7 of the larger frames from teh fret and glue them to the entrance housing. Just use a tiny amount of super glue.
You'll also need the white grilles that were supplied with stage 51. Glue these to the large openings (air intakes?) in the entrance housing.
Glue the two side screens to the housing.
Peel the backing paper off the decking and stick this to the top of the housing.
Push the lift engine housing onto the top of the entrance. I didn't need to glue mine.
Glue the two small vents to the top of the housing.
Glue the motor to the vent. Keep this safely as it will be fitted later.
Take the two benches and glue them to the boat deck either side of where the entrance housing will be fitted.
This completes the stage. I've just placed the entrance housing loosely on the deck for effect.
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Stage 59 gives us the lifeboats and davits for the port side.
Clips the tarpaulins on the lifeboats and push the block gear into place. Don't glue anything yet.
Fit the vent on the boat deck near the forward staircase.
Fit the tall cowl aft of the vent just fitted.
The remaining cowl is fitted on the starboard side, aft of the staircase.
Take the three davit bases, three type C1 arms and three type C2 arms.
Glue the C2 arms to the davits first. These have different sized pins and can only be fitted one way. The pins are arranged horizontally, not vertically.
Add the three type C1 arms with the vertical pins.
Glue these to the boat deck between the lifeboat cradles.
Take the remaining davits and arms and glue them together. Make sure you make a left and right pair.
Glue these to the forward and aft most davit positions.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 58 gives us the first class smoking room.
Stick the decking to the first class smoking room.
Add the two cowls to the deck. The pins are unique so they can only go in the right place.
Add the two vents to the deck. Note that the motors go outboard of the vents.
Add two benches to the deck.
Take the boat deck previously assembled and stick the aft section of decking to the end of the boat deck.
Glue 4 benches to the boat deck, forward and aft of where the first class smoking room will be fitted.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 57 gives us the 4th funnel. This funnel was a dummy funnel so there is no smoke generator. I believe that the funnel was added mainly for aesthetic reasons, but also served as the vent for the galley and some other incidental uses.
Wrap the the funnel plating around the interior and fix it with six small screws. Check the photo to see which holes the screws should go in.
Fit the stay collar over the funnel top. The details side of the stay collar goes to the top, so you can only see the plain side in the photo below.
Fit this assembly to the funnel.
Glue the platform to the funnel. I had to scrap the paint off the location tab to get a good fit.
Glue the whistle pipe to the forward water pipe.
Glue this assembly to the funnel. You may actually find it wasier to glue the water pipe to the funnel first, then glue the whistle pipe to the water pipe.
Glue the ladder to the funnel.
Glue the aft water pipe to the back of the funnel.
Place the funnel interior in the funnel.
Now place the funnel cap on the top of the funnel. The instructions advise not gluing it. Not sure why, but best just hold it in place with masking tape, or just leave it in the parts box for now.
Finally, screw the funnel to the funnel base that was assembled in stage 56.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 13B gives us the remaining parts for the easy assembly front wheel.
Glue the tyre valve in place.
Fit the central ring into the outer rim. This is fixed with three screws.
Note that the notches should line up.
Take the spoke assembly. Note that there is a rectangular pin. This fits in the notch shown in the previous photo.
Put the spoke assembly into the outer rim assembly. This is secured with 4 screws.
Put the inner rim in place. Note that the rectangular pin lines up with the notch.
Turn the wheel over and screw the two halves of the rim together with 3 screws.
That completes the stage and the pack. Here is a photo of the regular and easy wheels side by side.
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Stage 13A gives us the remaining parts to complete the first wheel.
This instructions say to apply pieces of double sided tape in the recesses of the central ring to hold the spokes. I couldn't get on with that at all, so small balls of Blu Tack were used. These work well and are much easier to apply. The dimples are just where I pushed them in with a cocktail stick.
Turn the wheel over and apply a couple of pieces of double sided tape to hold the last piece of the hub in place. This tape allows the hub to rotate a little as you fit the spokes.
Remove the backing strip and push the last piece of hub in place.
Insert the spokes through the bottom row of holes in the hub and feed them through the gap in the spokes to the right. The first two spokes are shown below.
Bed the ends of the spokes in the Blu Tack.
Repeat with all twelve spokes.
Repeat the process to complete the last row of spokes. These go in the upper row of holes in the hub, and the spokes swing to the left rather than the right.
The wheel looks like this from the back.
Fit the central ring to the inner rim. This just pushes on.
Note that the tab on the rim lines up with a corresponding slot.
Put the inner rim in place and secure with three screws. Make sure that the spokes are all held in the grooves in the rim and haven't jumped out of place.
Insert the 4 KM screws loosely at the moment.
These screws are used to tighten the spokes. Tighten them down evenly, 1 turn at a time until the spokes are tight. You may notice that the ends of the spokes are now all tight against the inside of the hub, whereas they aren't in the photo above.
Now I fitted the tyre valve to complete the wheel.
Here's the regular and simple wheels side by side so you can see the difference.
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Stage 12B gives us the first parts of the wheel with the easy spokes.
Take the two parts of the hub and fit them together.
They are screwed together with 4 screws.
Place the first set of spokes on the hub.
Take the smallest part of the hub and screw this in place to secure the first set of spokes.
Place the second set of spokes on the bottom of the hub. The ends of these spokes should be roughly in the middle of the gaps in the ends of the first spokes. You may find they line up better if you turn the spokes through 1/3 of a turn. In any case, they will need bending to fit the rim.
Take the largest part of the hub and use this to secure the second set of spokes. This is fitted with 3 screws.
Take the central ring and push the ends of the spokes into the holes. You will need to bend the spokes to get them to line up, but they do bend easily.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 12A gives us the first parts for the front left wheel.
The instructions start by fitting the tyre valve, but I left this to the end of the wheel assembly.
Fit the outer rim onto the jig, ensuring that the pin on the jig goes inteh hole in the rim.
Take 24 small pieces of double sided tape and stick them inside the rim. Then remove the backing paper. These will hold the spokes while you assemble the wheel.
Fit the first part of the hub in the centre of the jig. Again, there is a pin to locate this.
Take a spoke type 2 (The type 1 spokes look like an elongated U. The type 2 spokes look like and elongated S) and insert if through the lowest hole in the hub. Then place it in the appropriate notch in the rim and press it onto the tape.
Repeat this with another 11 spokes to complete the first row of spokes.
Now we need to complete the next row of spokes. This is done in the same manner with type 2 spokes, but these are inserted in the 3rd row of holes from the bottom of the hub. They lean clockwise rather than anti-clockwise.
Now place the central ring on the rim to hold the spokes in place. This is secured with 3 screws.
Note that the notches on the central ring and the outer rim must line up.
Now we complete the 3rd row of spokes. Use the type 1 spokes and insert them through the 2nd row of holes from the bottom of the hub. The ends of the spokes just rest in the notches of the central rim. There is no need to use and double sided tape.
The 4th row of spokes uses the type 1 spokes and they are inserted through the top row of holes in the hub.
Here's a close up showing the ends of the spokes resting on the central ring.
Secure these with the second central ring. The second central ring has a peg that lines up with a notch in the first central ring.
This second central ring is secure with 4 screws.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 11 gives us the second set of valve covers.
Screw the two valve cover bases to the engine. The two covers are different so make sure you get them the right way round as per the photo below.
Fit the two valve covers to the bracket with a couple of screws.
The screws are inserted from teh underside.
Press this assembly onto the valve cover bases.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 10 gives us a bracket for the valve covers and the wiring for the plug leads.
Take the valve covers supplied in stage 9 and join them with the valve cover bracket. THey are fitted with screws from underneath.
Fit this to the engine. It's pressed into place.
Take the two wire covers (they look like silver rods with brackets) and screw them to the eninge. The plain ends go to the outside of the engine.
The black plastic tubes all need to be fitted now, but they all need trimming to length. Push one end over th pin of the spark plug.
Now trim the tube to length and push the other end over the pin on the wire cover.
Repeat this for all 16 plug leads.
This completes the stage.
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Here's a Top Gear clip with James May driving LaFerrari. Talk about having the best job in the world!!
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Love the amazing attention to detail!
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Stage 9 gives us the valve covers.
The valve cover bases are screwed to the cylinder heads.
The engine plate is readable if you use a magnifying glass, or have better eye sight then me!!!
Apologies for the colour cast, my camera didn't like the lighting.
Screw this plate to the valve cover.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 8 gives us the second set of cylinder head parts.
This is mostly a repeat of stage 7 so I'll be brief.
Assemble the cylinder head and two covers.
Insert the 8 spark plugs.
Insert the four fuel injectors.
Add the cylinder head base and screw in place.
Screw this assembly to the engine assembly.
The pipe from the fuel injection module goes into a hole in the cylinder head between the first two fuel injectors.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 7 gives us the first set of cylinder heads.
This photo shows the three parts you need for the initial assembly, laid out as they will be assembled.
Insert the first cover in the cylinder head. This is secured with two screws from underneath.
Then insert the second cover. This is also secured with two screws fro underneath.
Press the 8 spark plugs into place.
Now press the 4 fuel injectors into place.
Fit the cylinder head base to the bottom of the assembly and secure it with 2 screws.
This cylinder head assembly can now be secured to the engine block with 2 screws.
This completes the stage.
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Stage 6 gives us the magnetos.
Take magneto part a (6A) and screw the drive shaft (PTO shaft) to it.
Now screw magneto part C (6E) to the drive shaft.
Press magneto part D (6F) onto magneto part C.
Place this assembly on the engine. The drive shaft fits in a hole in the crank case and magneto part A is screwed to the post on the engine block.
The final part of the magneto, part B (6B) is pressed into place.
The two brackets (6C) are fitted to the magnetos.
They are secured with the two pins that are pressed into the magnetos.
The magneto support is pressed into place. However, you may wish to leave this loose as it tends to snag during subsequent assembly.
This completes the stage.
My leopard controller doesn’t turn on
in Leopard Chat
Posted
Sounds like you have a faulty board if you’re sure assembly and connections are correct. Can you contact customer service?