Taffy

Is the actual indicator lens hollow, or have you stuck the LED to the outside. I'm thinking of following in both of your footsteps, however, the LED i have, came with quite a long tail cables, so I may us the indicator locating pin hole and simply rely upon the screw to hold it in place, I could then solder the extension wires via the front hinge grill.

Thanks for explanation, makes sense now

Giddykippa, couldn't you have drilled a smaller hole between the 2 attachment holes for an invisible method. Not tried myself, just a thought.

Definitely looks better then the screws. It did a similar method

Yes the screws still lined up. It's just that the plastic seems a bit to wide of the recess. I have also had a similar problem with part 101A, which has no gap at the hinge side, so forcing it open, instead of sitting flush in it's recess. Some sanding/file soon cured this.

I did file the front blind 80H on the sides to enable it to fit better. As for expose plastic, the corner cover panels should abut to 80H so there should not be any exposed black plastic.

No problem here either. Due to the flex in the roof panels, and started from the center holes and worked my way towards the sides. Also, I did not tighten the screws fully, until they were all installed.

Check that the pins/lugs under the upper deck metal frame line up with the holes in the lower desk roof.

Just a heads up. The instruction for stage 97 state that the shields marked F1 are for the upper deck and F2 for the lower deck. I found that it's actually the opposite. The short F2 go on the upper desk and the longer F1 go on the lower deck

Hi, just to make you aware. To be able to fit the upper saloon roof, you will need to remove both upper saloon outer frames, otherwise you will struggle to line up the vertical handrails, as these contain the window panes.

I now made a small cover to conceal the stairwell light. I made a small 'L' shaped piece out of some 2mm platicard I already had, then used an old Tesco's Clucard (0.8mm) piece stuck to the top. This was then painted with Revell 331 'Purple' Red'. It actually stays in place tucked into the seat gaps, however, I will apply some double-sided tape for security.

It attaches to the upper saloon lighting, there is a spare connector.

Hi Giddykippa I have threaded the wire along the grove in the panel to behind the seat. Looking at on-line videos for the Hatchett model there is no cover. I was going to make one out of plasti-card, and either paint it maroon or silver, and then stick it using double-sided tape. I believe another modeller mention in this forum about not using the light and simply filling the hole, and painting the panel. t As an aside, I suggest not fitting the upper deck rear panel 81A until you fit handrail 84I otherwise you will not be able to access the screw for the handrail. This is as far as I have got to.

Hi, I did not have any issues installing these items. I did not that the part 74E was not symmetrical, and depending which way around you fitted it, the upright pin was slightly off-set, thereby moving 74D.

Ferrari Formula 1.

Thanks. I tend to use acrylic paints, as they are thinner than enamel, and therefore easier to layer over each other. I covered the orange floor with a light brown, then once dry, a thin layer of dark brown. I also ran a black acrylic pain pen in the grooves to define the depth, which I thinks helps

Finished seat back and stairway. I also took someone else's tip to paint the heater skirting silver/steel

I had a sheet of 2mm thick white plasticard from another project. It cuts Ok with a Stanley knife, and files Ok. You could use an old credit card, and paint it black..

The problem with waiting a month between kits means I keep looking for other thing to do to the model. Instead of painting the nearside light cables black to blend in with the fender, I cut out some plastic card to fit over the cables with the necessary cut-out for the pipe off the engine. I then secured it to the fender using the original cable clamp screws.

I could not find a perfect match for the seat back grey, therefore, I will repaint the grey area of the seat frames/back with the grey I have (slightly darker then the one you used). The painted screws will then blend in.

Good job, must admit, I never thought of shortening the original. As I used plastic rod, then I simply use a spare HP screw which is for plastic, so no need to tap a thread.

The good thing about this forum, is that we can all share ideas to help improve our models

This is what I have done to fill the gap, using some brass rod. Also, I made a new steering arm using some 5mm plastic rod, It's 10mm shorter than the original metal one, and I have filed the ends to match the original. Now you can obtain full left & right lock.

I have also noticed this, and I was thinking of make a linkage out of scrape brass rod ending somewhere under the cab.