A6M5

I had the exact same problem. Here is the fix. The instructions earlier were incorrect in matching limiter switches to the lifters. Place each limiter switch plug into each slot of the circuit board until it works. Then test. The problem is the receptacles J1, J2 and J3 If you plug Lifter 2 into receptacle J2, and its the wrong lifter switch, nothing will work, and one will continue to cycle forever. Single point of failure board. So try each limit switch plug to each receptacle for all three lifters until all three are correct. Trial and failure . Turn power on. Then use the remote. If all three move, then reset, you are in business! Remember, as you are trying to insert each plug, the other two have to be plugged in too. So you will be moving each plug about until you get the right combination. It took me a total of 3 minutes to get it right! Feel free to email me at cmschlom@hotmail.com if you have any issues. -Chuck

Finished! I would like to dedicate this build to Sophie, who made a years build worthwhile with great customer service. Like all builds it had its challenges, but its worth the effort and builds into a stunning model that everyone gravitates to. Agora, now make an F6F Hellcat or a Hawker Hurricane or a P-47D Thunderbolt or an F-4 Phantom! More planes! IMG_7170 (2).MOV

Notice at time mark 31:35-31:46 the operation of the flap motor, gear and pinion gear, plus the operation of the flap is clearly visible. Grease the the part of the flap that fits into the oval slot. Also, where the guard goes around the gear and pinion gear, part 057-02 and shim the bottom to insure a secure engagement. (Pack 8). As for the landing gear indicator, use a pair of fine tweezers and gently pull up until it feels like it reengages. The plastic is very playable, so be careful.

The flaps are designed so they use a friction slide for the flaps to articulate opening and closing, see instructions. I had the same problem. I shimmed the support beneath the gear so the gear teeth really connect to the pinion gear that slides forward and backwards--rasing and lowering the flaps. Also, put a dab of grease in the slots where the flaps insert. That should take care of your flap issue. Mine, only has one flap lowering and retracting. Its a four second feature, that you really can't see. So, I'm not tearing my plane apart. It will just to have to make no flap landings :) As far as the tail wheel, make sure that long steel rod is not binding. It has to snake its way through several plastic protrusions that are designed to keep from catching on something. Grease that wire at those friction spots. The servo is not very powerful, and I find as the battery drains, mine does not lower either. But once the base is fully charged, no problem. Hope this helps IMG_7155.MOV

Looking good so far. Here's the plane we're building, and some history: This particular Zero, 8-13 was found on Saipan with other intact Japanese A6M5 aircraft. The picture below, was taken August 8, 1944, on the island of Saipan. The aircraft belonged to the 261st Kokutai (Air Group), 8th Hikotai, Aircraft 13. The kanji on top of the tail translates to "Bi." This is believed to be an abbreviation of the pilot's name. The cap (chevron above the kanji) meant he was a more senior pilot. Other planes of the unit had similar kanji that would say "victory," etc. If someone has another interpretation, please chime in, but this is according to the Smithsonian Museum. The 261st was flown from mainland Japan, to Iwo Jima, then on to Saipan, to be used for air defense of the island. It's interesting to note, that despite the plane being a total wreck, the intelligence guys seemed interested in this particular bird, it has even been tagged by the antenna mast. Many Zeros were removed from Saipan, and shipped aboard the USS Copahee, to be taken back to the States for study. Charles Lindberg even test flew one.

You can get a soldering set at Hobby Lobby for a few $. By following the above, you can change the LED with out removing anything. What ever is easiest for you.

That is called the engine mount supports, and yes you will have to nip that off to get at the bulkhead and fuel tank for removal. The good news, its not weigh bearing, its there for looks, the engine is self supporting. you will have to re-glue in place per the instructions when you are done. Use a sharp pair of sprue cutters and cut as flush as you can to the support brace and the bulkhead. Recommend CA glue to reattach.

I would recommend the following, remove the gun and LED. Put the new LED in the tester you used to check the motor for the propeller to make sure it works. Then, carefully snip the red and black wires that connect to the board, as well as the LED light. Use a sharp knife to scrape away the wire coating and either solder or twist the wires together- red with red, black with black, and cut a small strip of electrician tape and wrap it tightly around where the wires are reconnected. Gently tuck them in so they wont interfere or pinch when you close up the fuselage. I had to do this with the three wire plug for the landing gear switch. It works fine. Your other choice is to remove the fuel tank and the bulkhead. Refer to assembly instructions from this pack.

I was thinking that if you are getting no power, after the base on/off switch is in the on position, you DO NOT get the red power light by the IR sensor, you may have a bad battery. So you might ask for one of those too. While charging, if you got a green light that means, as you know, then the battery is fully charged. That does not mean that it held the charge. If you are getting no red power light, by the IR sensor, then you may have a defective battery. Check to see if it is warm. Try to recharge it. If you get a red charging light, I think your battery could be the problem. And you don't want that in your base. Or in your house. When you get a huge problem like that, the fix is usually a simple one. Its just a matter of solving the puzzle like mine. A mismarked board and unclear instructions. You will also notice that the fix for this in the check list is to replace the circuit board AND battery. Keep me posted.

Yes, this another common problem. I had the right one droop. The fix is the middle cog that connects the motor to the landing gear. Here's how to fix: Take a good stiff shot of your favorite bourbon, some aspirin, and do the following: Make sure the landing gear is tucked up into the gear well, you may need to use your finger of tape it in place. Take that middle cog, and firmly wiggle it in between the gears of the motor and landing gear cog. Make sure it is a snug fit. BE SURE THAT ALL THE GEAR TEETH INTER MESH!!!!!!! Put your finger over the middle gear, holding your finger firmly on the gear, then flip the wing around. If the gear is not drooping, you are almost home. Secure the gear cover with four screws. BUT! make sure the center cog's metal shaft rests completely in its trough!!! If not, it will pop out, and the gear will droop. After securing the cover and four screws are moderately tightened. Turn the wing over and check for droop. If their is none, you are in business! If it droops, start all over again. The left gear went in with no problem. The right gear took me 2 hours until it finally stopped drooping. BUT! sometimes the wheel cover will not fully retract. Mine only partially did. Not to worry, when you get the wing covers on, and you depress the take off button on the remote pad, that gear cover will close with a click after the landing gear fully retracts. Chuck

When nothing happens, do you mean no power is getting to the lifters? Is the plane mounted? I had a very similar problem. See video below. 1. Check to see if the battery is charged. (seriously) It takes about 5-8 hours to charge the battery pack the first time. If you have a red light shining in your base, you got power, (after you turn the base switch on.) 2. The circuit board is a single point of failure board. Meaning if you have one plug out of place. The whole shebang won't work. I found with my Circuit board it was mismarked, and the instructions are not clear on this. So, try to make sure all the plugs are in the right outlet. If not, try moving Switch Limiters J-1 and put into J-2 and J-2 into J-1 one. I found that if the switch limiters are not installed properly, the circuit board wont recognize them, and nothing happens. See below. The speakers, IR sensor, power charger should be OK. Make sure the battery main power line is plugged in correctly. If you have the cable installed backwards, it may not work. As I said, this circuit board is a single point of failure. If it doesn't recognize the correct plug, nothing will work. 3. If the plane is mounted, remove it, and see if the lifters will work. Go up and down and reset. Then the board is OK. Then the plane maybe the issue. If the motor will not run, nothing on the plane will work! Single point of failure. That means checking the engine with the testing unit. If it works, great, when you insert it into the plane and nothing happens, your problem is in the plane's internal mother board. Then you got to take down the plane. Which fortunately, is not hard. Again make sure the electric motor is connected to the right outlet. Make sure the slider is shimmed to make full contact with the limiter switches. If they are not depressing the switch fully, nothing will happen. This is a real common problem. I took a bit of plastic, and just used tape. This helped greatly. Do this to all lifters. Make sure the lifter is pressing that switch flat! Let me know if this works. If worse comes to worse, order a circuit board replacement. Don't feel bad, lot off people are having issues with Pack 12. IMG_7082 (2).MOV

The batteries normally will take 5+ hours or maybe more to charge, depending on what type of Micro B USB cable used. I get maybe 4-5+ cycles out of it. Cycle = 1 take off and landing plus yanking and banking, firing the guns, and lights on. Glad you got yours straightened out. I found that the main circuit board was mislabeled as to what two plugs go where. J1 and J2. Or the instructions are wrong. Each lifter must have a specific limit switch and cable. Their is no warning in the instructions, that if you get them mixed up, you're going to have trouble down the road.. This is a single point of failure board. If one plug is put in the wrong outlet, the whole enchilada won't work. Also the instructions say to turn your remote control pad on first, then the base. The black and white sheet tells the opposite which is correct.

Does your problem look like this? If so its a circuit board problem. The fix is easy, if this is your problem. So don't take your plane apart just yet. Let me know ASAP. Chuck IMG_7082 (2).MOVIMG_7083.MOV