General Lou

With stage 99 you get the fog lights and rear valance, but first I need to put the body shell onto the chassis. Some of the wires are not very long so I found it easier to put a bit of foam across the inside of the car and then rest the body on top. This made it easier to handle and didn't run the risk of pulling the wires out. All the wires are numbered at both connecting ends so it was just a case of matching them up and plugging them together. Once all the wires are connected I then dropped the body onto the chassis. Make sure everything lines up and it all needs to click into place. the first time I tried I hadn't got it pushed in enough and this meant that when it came to screwing it in the screws wouldn't bite. As you lower it, and before it fits together you need to make sure that all the wires in the engine compartment are tidied up and hidden away at the back in the compartment that gets completely hidden. I turned the model upside down on my lap to screw in the screws that hold it all together. This way you can avoid damaging the aerial Now I prepare the fog lights. I pressed the glass into the casement (no need to glue) and then screwed them in from the back. And now onto the very final stage.....

Adding the sun visors and mirror. The sun visors just push into place. But make sure you put them on in the right way. There is a orange sticker with warning writing on, these should be readable by the driver and the passenger when the sun visors are in the 'up' position. I pushed the two parts of the rear view mirror into place. they did not need gluing. There is only one way that they can fit together. Tho whole assembly is then screwed into the headlining between the two visors. Next I lowered the whole thing into the inside of the body. It was a little fiddly to get it lined up with all the holes. They need to be pressed in firmly for it to sit correctly in place. I pushed the aerial into its hole and then turned over the car to screw it in position. I found this was best to do by balancing the car on my lap so as not to bend or break the aerial when it was upside down. Stage complete!

Headlining and putting the doors on. The headlining is stage 96 but you don't do anything with it until stage 98. This stage is putting the doors on. I found the best way to put the doors on is to have them shut when you screw them in place, this way they are aligned properly. Only one screw needed for each door. Stage complete

Adding the door trim. Both door trims are attached in the same way. I pushed the upper trim in place first. Followed by the door sill plates. On one of them I did find that the hole had some body-paint on it preventing the lug on the sill fitting properly. Be careful not for it as the sill will break before the bodywork does. To fix this I just enlarged the hole with the screw diver by working away the pain. It then fitted nicely Stage complete.

The Rear Window as Alfred Hitchcock would say...! I found this was a similar process to the front screen. Firstly I rested the window in place and then I snapped on the chrome frame, starting at the bottom of it. I did also get the aerial at this stage which could go on now, but its not a good idea to put it on yet as the next stages require a lot holding and turning of the body so there is a danger I would snap the aerial. So for now its stage complete.

Stage 93, fixing the wipers to the grille. The two wipers are marked 'R' and 'L' so that you know which one goes in which hole. Once in place I simply screwed them in from behind. hey presto! I secured the grille into the body from underneath with two screws, remembering to use foam on the suface to protect he roof paintwork Stage complete!

Stage 91 and 92 are together being the front windshield. The screen is placed on the body and then the chrome surround snaps into place. I pushed the bottom of the chrome slots downwards into he body first and then the top is pushed firmly until it clicks. Keep the wipers for the next stage.

Stage 82, forearm and finger: I connect the finger that I built from the previous stage with the rest of the hand: Then I screw another shaft piece on to the middle of the forearm: I apply some glue on to the black circle and place it in the joint of the upper arm, then place the forearm cover on to the forearm. It sits on there loose until the next step: Finally, I screw the forearm and the upper arm together, and that's the stage complete:

Stage 81, forearm and finger: Starting off pack 9 with another finger. Here is my three step process of creating it: After the finger, I screw the shaft and shaft connector to the forearm assembly. This has to be done twice, for each side: Stage complete

Stage 80, forearm: Firstly, I put some glue into the grooves of the forearm plate, then lay each spring into them: Next, I screw the springs on to the shaft, then screw the shaft to the forearm joint: Finally, I connect the second finger with the hand, and then I'm finished: Pack complete

Stage 79, finger and arm Starting off this stage with building another finger, just like before: Moving on to the arm, I place a socket liner into it and screw a screw through the metal bar from stage 73: Next is gluing on another washer: Now, I put the shafts on the elbow joint into the arm, then screw in the left arm joint piece: Then I glue the second joint piece over the joint like so: Stage complete

Stage 78, left hand and arm joint: Firstly, I join the finger from the previous stage on to the hand, using a connector with a plastic sleeve. Then a pin with some glue on it: Next, I glue the washer on to the shoulder joint. Then I glue the shoulder joint to the arm: Then I place the shaft from stage 73 with a metal washer between two joint pieces, and screw them together: Stage complete

Stage 77, finger: This finger is the same as the right hand, so using the same method I assemble the parts with a little glue on the connector pins: Stage complete

Stage 76, continuing with the left arm: First of all, I place a socket liner into the arm, then rest the circle on the joint assembly inside of it: Next, I get the two muscle pieces, and second arm piece and rest them on top of the arm from the previous step. I then take two screws and put them into the arm to hold in the muscles like so: Stage complete. The joint should be rotatable.

Stage 75, left arm: This stage is super quick. I drop the socket liner into the arm, making sure to line up the curve on the socket wall with the curve on the arm: Stage complete

Stage 74, tricep muscle: In this stage, I build the tricep muscle. The process and mechanics of this stage are very similar to what we have built before. I start by inserting the shaft which then screws on to the cap from the other side: The final part of this stage is pushing the washer+shaft down the tricep tube:

Stage 73, left shoulder: I start off by screwing the two shoulder parts together: Next, I place the rubber washer on to the shaft, then screw it through the middle to hold it in place: Stage complete

Stage 72, starting the left arm: If you have already built an arm, you will be familiar with this process. So to start this arm, I put the shaft piece inside the arm part, then screw the shaft on to the cap like so: Stage complete

Stage 71, the foot: Firstly, I connect the two foot bones on to the toe joint using a pin and rubber tube, and a screw with a hex key: Next, I use another pin and rubber sleeve to attach the toe: Now that I have all of the foot bones built, I join them to the ankle by threading a grub screw through them all, once the holes are aligned: Then I use the second grub screw and repeat the previous step: Stage complete, what a fabulous foot!

Stage 31, right rear wheel brake: I build another brake, fairly simple and the same as before: Stage complete

Stage 30, suspension: Firstly, I use a pin to secure the shock absorber cylinder in place. You can find out if you are using the correct pin because it should not be too long or too short, it will fit perfectly. Next, I use another pin to connect the piston to the left rear lower arm. Once I have done this, I put a spring over the piston cover on the car, then the left rear lower arm fits into the chassis and brake. I now put pins through the sections where the left rear lower arm fits to the chassis and brake: Stage complete

Stage 29, suspension: Firstly, I take the assembly from stage 28 and rest it on the chassis whilst I connect the propeller shaft: Next, I use the two smallest pins to connect the arms to the arm holder: Then I place the assembly on to the chassis and screw it in each corner. I connect the arm to the brake section using the last bigger sized pin: Stage complete. The suspension on this car is wonderful to build!

Stage 28, propeller shaft and differential housing: To start off, I screw the differential housing rear cover on to the assembly from stage 27: Then I screw on the other half of the differential housing, using one screw: Stage complete

Stage 27, differential housing: Starting off, I use screws to join the drive shaft connectors to the housing: Next, using pliers, I connect the drive shaft left and right on to the connectors, by pressing in a pin for each (see how the drive shafts are sloping down which is important to get correct): And finally, with one more pin, I secure the drive shaft on to the brake assembly from the previous stage: Stage complete

Stage 26, left rear wheel brake: Firstly, I press the hub cap on to the spinner and put it to the side for now: Next, I put the wheel hub into the brake disc, then screw on the brake caliper: Stage complete