General Lou

Stage 120, the remote: The transparent parts are on a sprue, so I start by cutting them all off with pliers and filing off the excess: With the joins smoothened, I am now ready to glue them on to the controller. I take the buttons off another sprue and file them down too, to rest in place without glue: This is the nut that the battery cover is held on with. I place a small amount of glue on to it so that it stays in place whilst I screw in the screws from the other side. After the nut, I join the wire on one controller piece to the circuit board on another: Everything is now ready to be screwed in place, so I waste no time in finishing! Stage 120 / 120 complete.

Stage 119, the terminator as pretty much complete! This is the other half of the support. I screw the support plate on to the support tube with 3 screws, screw sleeves and 3 nuts: The support is fully standing and wow this is a huge model, even better in person. I had to take it to the floor for a better shot! Or you would be able to see all our top secret models in the background hahaha: I don't actually glue the chain on next, just rest it in place so I can change it later. Or maybe do something cool like wrap it on the terminator: Finally, I screw on the supports on to the back of the T-800 and lift it into place: Stage complete:

Stage 118, T-800 support stand: Building on from the last stage with the metal plate and using it to screw the support stand on. I use a scalpel to wedge itself against the nut, allowing me to get a strong grip: I proceed on to then slot the support stand underneath the base. It requires a slight angle to get past the velvet board, but once I flip into over and push it down, it all straightens up by itself: Next, I simply screw the metal plate to the base. Then I screw on the last bit of velvet board and stick on the four tabs in each corner: By squeezing the remaining metal pieces into a U shape, I can push them into the support tubes. To get them in all the way, I jam my screw driver in with it: stage complete:

Stage 117, batteries and base: This is the stage where we need some batteries. Luckily I had some spares stashed away in a draw! They area size C batteries which you can get easily, but this slot for the batteries is easily accessible, so you can continue this stage if you don't have some (just keep the screws loose on the panels covering up the wires incase they do not work when you test them) Then I push on the rocks to cover the batteries. It clicks in with a push, so you know if it has gone on properly: The base needs to be turned upside down again to slot in the batteries, which I do now. Following on by attaching the wire and taping them together for better organisation: With the wires now all cleared up, I can screw on this base panel: Back in stage 116, we got a metal plate which I take and use some screws and nuts to join the four brackets on to as shown here. I actually just use my fingers as it seemed easier to hold them. Once they are all in I then go through each one with a screwdriver to fully tighten them: Stage complete:

Stage 116, rock details and closing up the base: These two rocks come from stage 115. I stick them with some glue, just like the rest of the details: Next, I can start covering up the wires by screwing on the first and second velvet-covered wooden panel: stage complete:

Stage 115, speaker: Here we have the on/off switch. It is nicely hidden beneath the skull. I push the switch in from the top and plug the wire into the circuit board underneath: To screw on the speaker, I place the black ring over it like so. The orientation of this piece matters, so this image shows it correctly in my fingers. So now I can get the base and screw on the speaker: And of course, I connect up the wire: Stage complete. Looks like I am going to need that masking tape to keep the wires from going over the base parts which will touch the table when upright (as mentioned in the instruction):

Ah, thank you. I must have read right over that bit on stage 111!

Stage 114, connecting the lights to the circuit board: Firstly, I use four screws to hold the circuit board to the underside of the base. I make sure that the rotation is all the same as the instructions, just to make sure the wires reach and save having to undo everything: Now I can push the wires into the circuit board. You can use tape or blu tack to hold down the wires, or just pinch them to create a crease around the protruding plastic parts like me: Stage complete:

Stage 113, the final corner for the base: The first step I take is to screw in both connectors to the already built base parts. Then I rest the quarter from this stage, on to a box to help align the screw holes and apply all 8 screws: Next is the details, which is simply a matter of gluing each piece: And finally, I click the last light into position: Stage complete. It's a great piece of scenery for the T-800 to stand on!

Stage 112, joining and detailing the third quarter of the base: Before adding the detail, I join this base section to the others by using 4 screws and a connector. The instructions say to hold the base up by using some boxes as raisers, however I personally didn't find it necessary: Now that the base is secured, I can start gluing on the details, beginning with the jaw bone. I found that it joins best if you apply some glue all the way around the jaw and not the base, then push in firmly for about 30 seconds. Following on with the spine and stone details: Finally with this stage, I thread in one of the lights from stage 111. I checked the prototype model in the Agora office and found out that the light to use here is the one with the shorter wire: Stage complete:

This is the first stage, giving us 2 more lights for the base: These two LED lights follow the same assembly process as the lights in pack 11. So I place the LED circuit board into the holder with the lens, then thread the wire through the holding piece, incasing the LED. As stated by the instructions, the two LEDs are different, and it is important to know which is which after they have been built. Next, I use four screws to hold the back and front parts together. Finally, I thread the last part down the wire, and screw it on with a black screw and nut. I then repeat this for the other light: Stage complete:

Left side door, and starting the right side So now I'm combining three stages, as 71 and 72 complete the left side door, and 73 simply replicates for the right-side. The three chrome rivets which sit on top of the door are a nice detail And the working door latch is a tiny piece of engineering but fantastic that it actually works, and will hold the door in place shut, just make sure you keep an eye on that tiny spring, its a right pain to find on the floor! The door hinge is another piece to make sure is super-tight as it will be doing a lot of opening and closing over the years! and the final stage is starting work on the other door....

A bit more work on the trunk I'm guessing that the trunk hinges need to be really tight as it is going to get quite a lot of use in its life I have added the 'standard' licence plate, but I have actually got a limited edition one on order so will replace that with my own personalised on when it arrives

Back to some nice shiny body-work! Top-tip when screwing in the badge on the trunk, don't over tighten it otherwise it twists emblem slightly off-center: The light plate and latch pushed in quite easily.

Finishing the steering connection. Spoiler alert - I broke the steering system shaft by trying to turn the wheels before it was all properly in place, too much pressure, don't try this at home! Banging I the steering wheel to the column is quite easy with a hammer, just be careful about damaging the components. On the first attempt at attaching the steering rod I screwed in the left side before making sure it was all aligned and in place. Best not! Instead get it all in place and lined up before screwing in both sides.

Steering column The cam gear bracket and cover are going to take a lot of strain as the wheels move, so I thought I would play it safe and add a drop of super glue to the frame before I attached and screwed in the bracket. Also, before attaching the bracket, I took the device from th instructions and pre-screwed the cover so as to pre-thread the holes ready for a later stage. A combination of tweezers and fingers was needed to thread the steering rod between the exhausts and frame to align it in place then I screwed in the cover (pre-threaded!!!) to hold it in position

now its time to add the oil vapour canister. I pushed the two pipes into the top of the canister, and then on the side the oil vapour canister cap. I found that on elf the holes in the firewall was not quite wide enough for the canister to push into place, and so I widened it slightly with the end of a blade ...and then it fitted in quite snuggly! Next up, the air intake pipe pushed into place over the lug

Putting the driver's harness on to the roll bar the bracket is held in place with two retaining brackets, each with only one screw because the other hole is used for the harness hooks The hooks were pushed in and then the seat belts easily fit into the holes: Finally on this stage the right lateral bar pushed into place on th firewall:

The end of the penultimate pack, and soon to be 100% complete. For this stage, I start off by joining the two quarters of the base that I have. Next, I simply glue on the the two pipe details, then place the skull on without any glue, as instructed. I take the second light and push it into the other corner like so. Finally after this, the spring goes on. No glue, just simply push and twist into the groove until you can feel that it will not fall out. It doesn't require much. Stage complete.

Stage 109, base details and another light: Starting with the light, it is the same build as the first. Now for the rusty metal decoration, it sits in a groove with a little glue. Stage complete