Mark, The Master Modeller

Stage 20 gives us the front section of the body. Nothing to assemble in this stage, but feel free to admire the beautiful lines on the body. You can be forgiven for drooling a little! I've left mine in the plastic packaging to help protect it. This completes the pack, and I can't wait for Pack 4!

Stage 19 gives us the lower panel for the engine block and some other detail parts. Push the lower panel in place. Cut the 4 cam cover knobs from the sprue. Push these into the holes in the cam covers. Take the lateral components and press them into the holes on the left side of the distributors. This completes the stage, but take a moment to admire the gorgeous lookikng engine that you've just created!

Stage 18 gives us the lower engine block. Take the gearbox and place it against the engine. Secure it with 2 screw fitted from the inside. Now fit the lower part of the engine block, securing it with 4 screws. This completes the stage.

Stage 17 gives us the left side of the engine block and we will fit the carbs. Take the left cylinder head assembly and screw it to the left side engine block. The carbs are trapped between the two cylinder heads. Make sure that you have the carbs the right way round. There are pins on one side of the carbs and they must face outwards when the distributor is to the left. Here's a close up showing the carbs fitted so you can see which way round they go. The instructions suggest removing the trumpets for the next step, but I found this unnecessary. Put the carbs in position against the left cylinder head, then put the put the right cylinder head in position. Screw the two halves of the engine block together. Here's the front screw. Here's the rear screw. This completes the stage.

Stage 16 gives us the remaining carbs. Assembly of the carbs is the same as the previous carb, so I'll be brief. Fit the carb connectors to the bases and screw them together. Fit the centre section of the carbs. Push the upper section of the carbs onto the assemblies. Fit the trumpets, remembering that the flats butt against each other. This completes the stage.

Stage 15 gives us the left cylinder head and cam cover. This is a repeat of the previous cylinder head/cam cover assembly so I'll be brief. Take the remaining cam cover nuts from stage 8 and fix them to the cam cover. Again, I drilled the holes a little deeper and glued them in place with superglue. Fit the remaining distributor tot he cylinder head. Fit the cam cover to the head and fix it with screw from underneath. This completes the stage.

Stage 14 gives us the inner panel and hinge for the left door. This is a repeat of the right door, so I'll be brief. Insert the hinge and secure it with the mounting plate. Fit the pipe to the inside of the inner door panel. Fit the panel insert to the outside of the inner panel. Push the inner panel onto the door assembly. This completes the stage and the pack.

Stage 13 gives us the window and frame for the left door. The steps for this are a repeat of the right door, so I won't bore you by repeating myself in any great detail. Remove the protective film and insert the windows into the frame. Screw the frame to the door to complete the stage.

Stage 12 gives us the inner panel and hinge for the right hand door. Insert the hinge in the door. Put the mounting plate on the hinge and screw it in place. Take the black pipe that was supplied in the previous stage and push it over the pins inside the door panel. Take the panel insert that was supplied in the previous stage and push it into the hole in the door panel. Push the door panel onto the door to complete the stage.

Stage 11 gives us the window and frame for the right door. Remove the protective film from both sides of the window. Insert the window in the rear half of the frame. The notches go to the top and bottom, but the window will only go in one way anyway. Remove the protective film from the front window and fit that in the frame. The front window goes on the outside of the rear window. The instructions do refer to them as the inner and outer windows. Make sure that the front window can slide. back a bit. Screw the frame to the door assembly. This completes the stage.

Stage 10 gives us the start of the right hand door. Push the door handle into the door. Screw the internal frame into the door. It's secured with 3 screws. This completes the stage.

Stage 9 gives us the first set of carbs and the right side engine block. Push teh carb connectors onto the carb base. They only fit one way round. Screw them together with a screw. Add the two central sections. These are not a tight fit as they will be held in place by the upper sections. Fit the upper sections to the assembly. These are a tight fit and need a firm push. Add the four trumpets. These are quite tight and need a firm press. THere are flats on the trumpets. The flats should butt up against each other. Screw the cylinder head to the block. It's secured with two screws. This completes the stage.

Stage 8 give us the right hand cam cover. Cut the cam cover nuts from the sprue with sprue cutters or a craft knife. I used a No 11 scalpel blade, which is my preferred knife for modelling. Be careful as these nuts are tiny and the carpet monster just loves to eat them! Luckily Agora has supplied us with some extras! I found that the holes in the cam cover were a bit too shallow, or I left the pins too long..... I drilled out the holes with a 0.8mm drill bit in a pin vice to make them deeper, then superglued the nuts in place. Put the cam cover on the cylinder head, then secure it from below with a couple of screws. This completes the stage.

Pack 2 will see us start construction of the engine! Stage 7 gives us the distributors and the first cylinder head. Fit the distributor bodies to the bases. There's a slot and tab to make sure the alignment is correct. They are secured with a screw inserted through the distributor body. Push the caps onto the distributors. Again, a tab and slot arrangement is provided to ensure correct alignment. Fit one of the distributors to the cylinder head. This completes the stage.

Stage 6 gives us the remaining seat and seatbelt. First we add some more detail to the gearbox. Take the joint and the front cover and press them together. Press this assembly onto the gearbox. Take the support bar and insert it into the rear floor pan. This is a repeat of the support bar B in Stage 5. I.e. Insert the bottom first and flex the bar to insert the top. Add 3 seat belt hooks to the floor. The holes are D shaped, but not very clearly defined, so make sure that the flat of the d faces tghe rear of the model. Add the two seat stoppers. These are brackets that support the back of the seat. Make sure you get the left and right sides the right way round. They just slide through the slots for the moment and are left free to move. Take the sea belt and hook it to the eye in the back corner by the transmission tunnel. Fold the seat belt out of the way over the transmision tunnel and fit the seat in position. It's held with 2 screws inserted from under the floor. Slide the stoppers into the slots in the back of the seat. Now finish clipping the seat belt in place. Repeat the process to install the passenger seat. This completes the stage and the pack. I've put the gearbox in place, just because I can!

Stage 5 gives us the rear floor pan and some nice details. Push the upper panel onto the gearbox. Push the lower panel onto the gearbox. OK, that's gearbox finished for now. Let's move on to the floor pan. Take the rear floor pan supplied in this stage and the front floor pan already assembled. These are joined together with three screws. Here are the positions of the screws. Take the support bar B and insert it inthe floor pan. The angle of the ends makes it obvious which way round it goes. Insert the bottom first then flex the top into place. It has to be flexed quite a lot, but it will go. Push the two belt hooks into the rear floor. They will only go one way round thanks to the D shaped pin and hole. Here's a close-up. Turn the floor pan over and insert the rear supports. Again, here's a close-up. They look like this from the top. Take the oil filling pipe and push the length of hose over the pin. Push the filling pipe into its hole in the upper part of the rear floor pan, then push to hose over the nearby pin. Turn the floor pan upside down and secure the filling pipe with a screw. Fit the handbrake base next to the transmission tunnel. The open end faces forwards. Push the hand brake lever in place. Take the two support bars A and fit them to the upper part of the rear floor pan. As with the previous support bar, the angle of the ends are different so the bar only goes one way round. Insert the bottom first, then flex the bar to get the top pin in its hole. This completes the stage.

Stage 4 gives us more of the floor, the bell housing and more of the gearbox. Take the adjuster lever and push it into the hole in rail B. Remove the protective film from the floor panel, then the adhesive strip backing tape, and stick the panel in place on the floor. Now press the floor rails in place. Take the seal plate and the bell housing. Note that the cutout on the seal plate goes towards the bottom of the bell housing. Place the seal plate over the bell housing. Place the bell panel over the opening of the bell housing. The tab at teh bottom goes in teh cutout of the seal plate. Screw the two halves of the gearbox together. This is the part supplied in this stage, along with the parts assembled in the previous stage. Put the bell housing assembly in place on the gearbox. Fix it with 2 screw inserted from inside the bell housing. Press the side panel in place on the left side of the gearbox. This completes the stage.

Stage 3 gives us the next part of the dashboard, the stage of the gearbox and the floor. Take the instrument panel assembled in the previous stage and screw it to the dashboard supplied in this stage. It looks like this from the front. Take the get lever and fix it to the left gearbox casing with a screw. The gear lever does move as if you're shifting gears! Take the aluminium floor and remove the protective film. Turn it over and remove the protective backing from the self-adhesive tape. Press the floor panel in place. Push the seat adjuster lever into the hole in floor rail B. Push the two floor rails into the holes in the floor panel. Rail B with the adjuster lever goes tot he outside of the car. This completes the stage.

Stage 2 gives us the driver's door and the dashboard. Fit the frame (instrument bezels) inside the dashboard. It looks like this from the front. Take the smaller lenses and remove the protective film. There is film on board side of the lenses. One side clear and one side blue. Fit the 5 smaller lenses in the back of the frame. No need to push too hard as the dials will hold them in the correct position. Fit the dials to the back of the dashboard and secure with 2 screws. It looks like this from the front. Take the larger tacho lens, remove the protective films and press this into position. For once, reflections on the photo help! Here's the completed dash without the reflections obscuring the dials! Fix the door frame to the inside of the door. This is held with 3 screws. Push the door handle into the hole in the outside of the door. This completes the stage.

Let get the show on the road with this beauty. One of the prettiest cars ever. Stage 1 gives us the bonnet and steering wheel, and also a screw driver. We start with the bonnet hinges. These screw on to the front of the bonnet. Now take the clear plastic air intake covers and cut them from the sprue with sprue cutters or a craft knife. They are marked with L & R on the sprue so don't get them mixed up. They press into place. This completes the bonnet. Feel free to take a minute to drool! The steering column is joined to the steering wheel assembly with a single screw. This completes the stage.

Try looking for a spudger on Amazon or Google. It's a flat bladed plastic tool used for prising open phone cases, etc. Ideal for the job and they are very cheap. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Personally, I'm tempted to remove the latch from the mechanism so it doesn't need pressing to open the door.

Don't worry if the engine doesn't turn properly at the end of Pack 1. It really needs the base in position to support everything, and that is provided in Pack 2. Have a look the official build diary. That shows the assembly quite clearly. However, the assembly is a bit fiddly. Pack 2 sees the main parts of the engine complete, but remember to only turn it anti-clockwise by hand. It does take a few revolutions to get it to free up and turn without jamming. However, once the engines are installed in the engine room and connected to the electric motor it will turn quite smoothly. Here are links to the official build dairy. https://community.agoramodels.com/forum/171-pack-2-of-the-official-titanic-build-diary/

You did a great job, she looks fantastic.

That's taken the engine details to the next level. Brilliant work!

A decal setting solution will help. I use MicroScale Sol & Set, and have had good results with the Revell decal setting solution in the past. I couldn't get on with the Tamiya product though.