davidnd

Mine were also wobbly.Just another problem with a really bad model to try and get right.There have been no end of problems with this build.

Its not Agoras fault as they have just inherited a bad model.They did not develop this kit,and have only distributed it.I feel sorry for them having to cop all the flak from the modellers.Perhaps a little more research into the pros and cons of pre released models they wish to take on could be of benefit.

To be honest having completed the Miura ,i have to conclude its the worst part works model i have ever built.Orange peel paint work,needing a respray.,Bonnet ,doors and back engine bay all not fitting and leaving ugly gaps.Metal bodywork is bent out of shape making it impossible to achieve a good fit and justify the price of the model.Simply to sum it up its the worst part works i have ever built. This one has made me very hesitant to start another without any build diary feedback.

I had to touch up quite a bit of mine.I used tamiya ts chrome yellow.I then decantered it into my airbrush and painted the parts gently misting some of this paint outwards.Doing this gives a paint of a slightly different color a blending in gradually so it cant be noticed.I have previously submitted pictures of my respray and clear cote as i had trouble with orange peel and also thin taint.

Im not surprised.You wont be the only one experiencing the fit problemsI would request a replacement ,its the only way you will have any chance of having it sit down.

Hi Eagle 36.Well done on a great build.I am glad to hear i am not the only one to have encountered these problems.For what we paid the part quality [paint] and fit problems are very disapointing.For all out there still to complete your build,stay calm and think it through.One tip for improving the back opening engine bay is,look at where it sits on the cockpit structure as you may have to curve the front of it to conform more to the shape of where its to sit on this structure. Was thinking of the La Ferrari,but to be honest ,after this experience i dont think i will proceed,as the fit is even more important and i hear there are problems with the remote opening doors.Think i will sit back and wait until others go under the wire first to see how it pans out.

On final stages of the lambo.Apart from re clear coting the model i have had other problems.Can anyone cast any light on the fact the bonnet will not fully close.I have also tried to place the chrome side skirts on but had to modify them to get them to fit.I have had to remove some of the bonnet internal frame work to get mine to close without ugly gaps,and sitting up.I have also had to manipulate the back engine cover to sit down,again without leaving ugly gaps.I have built lots of 1/8 scale cars through model space in the past but have not had to battle the body fit problems like this.Its not looking too bad now picture enclosed.Let me know if im the only one with these issues to have overcome.,

Thankyou Mark,i look forward to getting my hands on the La Ferrari.

here are my finished fictures of my bonnet and back section completly redone ,sanded,touched up and 3 cotes of clear gloss.I cant now show u the orange peel as its all been redone,but i am sure there are further examples of it at Agora warehouse.

Hi Mark,i have seen the Ferrari model pictures,and only have 2 concerns.Is that large gap between the body and engine bay lid going to be that size.Also will the paint work be better than the Muira's bonnet and back engine bay section.[excess orange peel ].

I have had to sand /touch up and spray 3 clear cotes to bring my bonnet and rear end up to standard.Orange peel and paint runs are a far cry to the roof and doors we received.The paint work in all honesty on the bonnet and rear end was not good.Will post pictures once i wet and dry cut and buff the ofending parts.

My bonnet has been rejected twice due to paint rubbing off the sharp areas due to lack of padding.now the third bonnet and rear panel is on its way as it too arrived with paint bubbed of the edge.

Mercedes Benz 1955 F 1 W196 ASSETTA CORSA. is the teaser on Agoras site.

Do it first up as nothing gets in the way with taping and overspray.Also same goes when you do the stern.Remember unlike other german ships the swastikka goes north /south not on an angle.See other posts with pictures to guide you.

Any one wanting to touch up or modify their Bismarck will use Tamiya xf66 matt acrylic its an excat match for the gray.The bootline gray takes quite a bit of color matching with black and white added to achieve the right tone.I scraped my hull while carrying,unscrewed the section in question,and now once sprayed you cant tell the difference.If photos of this are required please let me know. Cheers David.

I too have had the issue of the power switch not working.A simple on/off switch would have been a far better solution instead of what we have been given.

Fully agree,part works make it afordable.Agora then give you the option once in the market place for a time to purchase multiple packs to start with.They then give you the option once the subscription runs its corse to purchase the full kit.This is a very reliable company unlike the way modelspace uk turned out with incomplete subscriptions and missing parts.

Cool,thanks for the heads up as i too have the same problem so will wait for stage 59 to rectify the problem.

I fully agree,as model space bailed out half way through their c 57 train build.I got up to pack 5 then received a full refund and told it would not continue.Shame as it was looking really good.

The above Bismarck is the 1/200 scale Haschette with wooden hull,and a couple of others.Negato and schnellboot.

I have been building ships for 20 plus years ,some in magazines.Your weathering is excellent,your method gets really nice results.Well done.

I have flat cleared all parts and dry brushed with black pastel to bring all the details out.Crystal clear all porthole after painting the inners black. You can add very light weathering as i fully agree,she was in pristine condition when sunk.I have also added the swashstikkas on the bow and stern. This is my second Bismarck,having built the Hashette wooden hull version.

Yes but be carefull as Wayne put his motor in upside down

Yes mine was the same,but you can gently drill it out to take the 2nd screw.