[my W196R Stirling Moss]

Hi,

as I had already written, I don't like the solution with the silver rubber hoses at all.

So now we continue with the lines for the injection system made of 1 mm aluminum wire. Here again pictures of the original.

 

First I built these brackets, there are 2 pieces each on the left side, in which 4 lines each are routed.

The 4 lines for the right side are first routed through a block of 4 and then through blocks of 2.

 

Painted black, it is now time to bend and lay the cables.

 

 

 

 

 

[my W196R Stirling Moss]

It continues with the distribution pipes of the ignition cables.

The kit parts are just straight pipes with the connections for the cables.

I looked through a lot of pictures but only saw the bent protective tubes in all pictures.

So I looked in my junk box and found two exhaust pipes from a 24 truck.

They are a bit thicker but much more suitable for the case of the kit tubes, the cable sleeve should be pushed over them from the outside.

In the original, however, this cover goes into the pipe, so it is consistent for me.

Then I also sorted the two ignition cable strands and secured them with appropriate holders.

Here you can also see the newly built bracket for attaching the ignition magnets.

The kit part again for comparison.

I think that sort of order comes into the whole cabling, just like with the original, I will also rebuild the injection lines from aluminum wire.

In my opinion, this tangle of cables and silver hoses, as provided for in the kit, does not work at all.

And finally something really nice.

Starting today, every step of my project will be personally accompanied by Stirling Moss.

 

[my W196R Stirling Moss]

At the moment I'm still working on the engine, but in the meantime I've started on the fire wall.

A tiny plaque has to be mounted here again.

Nicely done in itself, but unfortunately a bit scratched on me, which doesn't bother me at all, since my W196 is supposed to look used.

This plaque is meant to be screwed back on with small Phillips head screws and again I opted for push pins.

Shortened, the small "rivets" are ready for assembly.

Here is a comparison with the screw provided in the kit.

The mechanic hit the rivet a bit too hard with a hammer on the bottom right, but okay, I'll leave it like that.

[Ready to ship?]

Hello,

Disappointment on the one hand, joy on the other.
The announced package did not contain anything from the 300 SL.
But surprise, because Pack 11 with the base plate and the certificate with gold coin and plaque for the W196R.

Very nice!!!

greeting
Marek

[Mercedes 300SL - Pack 1]

Hello,

I know that you have a YouTube channel, but if there is no picture and text here, this forum will quickly become a collection of links.

I personally wouldn't like that.

Greetings from Berlin
Marek

[Ready to ship?]

Hello,

I just received an email that a package from Agora will be delivered today.

I'm assuming it will be the 300 SL, I'm really looking forward to it and I'm happy.

[my W196R Stirling Moss]

Hello,

Today I dealt with a new component of the engine, the cooling duct. First I'll show you a picture of the original, the yellow arrows point to the assembly.

And now the kit part... Mold separation seams, sprue points and instead of the thicker rubber connection, the areas here are designed to be thinner. Why thin???

So sand everything down and repaint.

shrink tubing on it

hose clamps

and the now finished cooling channel

Aged and installed.

[my W196R Stirling Moss]

The engine has now been assembled and it continues with the magneto ignition and the ignition cables.

In the picture above you can see the kit part and below it my little change.

As always, this enlargement is sometimes hair-raising, but the aluminum strips are 0.8 mm wide.

Then, as with the original, the cables were bundled in pairs with a strip of tape and installed.

And here is my original picture as a template.

[my W196R Stirling Moss]

But before I start I started to age the engine, the oil paint needs a little longer to dry.

[my W196R Stirling Moss]

Let's get to the cylinder heads

and a really nice nameplate.

As is usual with this series, this should be mounted with Phillips screws.

I decided again to attach it with "rivets" (pins) and I think it's much better.

Now the undersides of the heads are screwed onto the piston blocks.

What worked great on the one hand didn't work at all on the other. The pins do not match the specified screw holes.

With the screws in place, you can see that the holes are completely offset, so cut off the pins and that's it.

On the other bench, the pins are way too thick and won't fit in the holes so drill them out.

On the second head of the other cylinder bank, both errors appear, an offset of the holes and pins that are too thick.

Then we received the 16 ignition cables in this construction step.

With the tubes for the ignition cable routing I encounter problems again, the tubes are straight.

But original pictures always show that these tubes are bent towards the middle.

So something new has to be created here as well.

[my W196R Stirling Moss]

Let's move on to the cylinder banks

Some of the injection valves and spark plugs have enormous sprues and a slight misalignment.

So sand down and repaint, which is a better choice anyway, otherwise everything appears far too uniformly silver.

 

 

[my W196R Stirling Moss]

Since the threaded rods are only in the delivery, I once further built the injection unit.

I didn't like the first painting in oiled steel and on original pictures I saw black valves with silver connections.

So repainted again and made the connections in small pieces from 2 mm half-round profiles.

In the enlargement it looks really wild but okay, I'll leave it like that for now.

Just for classification, the valves are approx. 5 mm high and consist of an M1.2 x 4 screw.

[my W196R Stirling Moss]

I then continued on the engine, the ignition system, especially the two starters. (it says so in the instructions, what are they called exactly?)

 

 

It looks like this when assembled, which I don't like

 

 

So in the first step, real screws and studs were replaced.

 

 

Then I didn't like the bracket on the strap so this part was recreated from 0.5 mm wire.

 

 

So I like these two components much better.

 

 

 

Now the bracket. As soon as the M 1.4 threaded rods have been delivered, we can continue.

 

[my W196R Stirling Moss]

Hello,

 

here it goes on, I've aged the frame a bit, let's see what I'll do there. But for now it should be enough.

 

 

Then I started with the engine and got stuck with the injection pump. I don't like the valves at all.

 

 

If you look at an original, you can still do something.

 

 

I took a screw and put a small piece of twisted pipe on it.

Then drilled through a cap nut, cut a new thread and screwed it on anchored around.

 

 

It's still a bit big, but that's okay. Now another 7 pieces and then the connectors between each two valves come out of semi-circular profiles.

 

 

[Hachette Unimog U406 with special load]

Hallo,

das habe ich schon bemerkt, verestehe nur den Sinn nicht so ganz.

Bedeutet das jetzt ich poste alle meine Beiträge in drei Sprachen für jede Rubrik oder poste ich in deutsch und die Beiträge werden nicht gesehen / gelesen.

Wie gesagt ich verstehe es nicht da ich google so eingestellt habe das alles in deutsch angezeigt wird.

Ich habe hier also drei Foren alle in deutsch.

Wenn diese Einstellung ein Franzose macht hat er 3x alles auf französisch usw. usw.

Wie gesagt ich verstehe die sprachliche Unterteilung überhaupt nicht.

[Hachette Unimog U406 with special load]

Here is my Unimog with a special load.

 

[Stirling Moss figure]

Hello,

I just like it when there is always a figure next to my models. I do that with my 1/16, 1/12 and also with the 1/8 models.

Unfortunately, the larger the models, the more difficult it becomes.

Does anyone know of a source for 1/8 scale figures and specifically does anyone know of a 1/8 scale Stirling Moss figure?

I would really like this in 1/8 next to the model.

[World of Wayne Has Entered the Chat]

Hello Wayne,

I didn't even realize you weren't here.

I've been following your channel for a while and I'm all the happier that you're now active here too.

Greetings from Berlin

Marek

[Robocop 1/2 Scale]

Hello,
the figures I have listed are all available on the market.
I have added this information to the list above.
Does the vendors have come up with this exact size, why no real scale? I don't know it.

[Robocop 1/2 Scale]

Hallo,

Wenn Sie Filmfiguren mögen, ist das sicherlich kein schlechtes Thema.

Mir gefällt einfach die unterschiedliche Größe nicht. Hier sollten die Anbieter einen einheitlichen Maßstab wählen, z. B. 1:2.

1. Terminator 1:2 (Agora, Hachette)
2. Iron Man 62 cm (De Agostini, Fanhome, Altaya)
3. R2D2 1:2 (De Agostini)
4. Robocop 60 cm (De Agostini, Altaya)
5. Xenomorph 1:2 (Hachette)
6. Power Rangers Megazord 60 cm (Altaya)
7. Optimus Prime 78 cm (Agora)
8. Batman 90 cm (Salvat)
9. Mazinger Z 75 cm (Salvat)

Bei manchen könnte die Angabe in cm auch dem Maßstab 1:2 entsprechen, ich glaube aber nicht, dass der Robocop nur 1,20 m groß ist.

[Not a full kit?]

A display case is supplied with package number 11. Since I did not order them, Pack 11 will not be delivered either.

[my W196R Stirling Moss]

Hello,

I'm happy if you like my report.
I haven't really thought about the color yet, maybe something in beige or grey, it should go in the direction of dust and dirt.

Here's a picture I found.

There are many good pictures on the net about Fangio's car, I particularly like the damage to the body. Will not be easy to implement the cracks and chips in the model.

[FINISHED!]

Exactly one gold screw was delivered for each "T".

[FINISHED!]

19 hours ago, Gardengnome said:

Das sieht aus wie ein Metallmodell des 500 Enfield. Ist es 1:12?

Yes, it is in 1:12 from Maisto and in about 3 months I will get mine in Chrome Black in 1:3 scale ... YES 1:3 !!! 78 cm long and 8.5 kg heavy

[FINISHED!]

Thanks for the tip,

I'll have it done here in Germany by the "Druckeronkel.de", he can print in high-gloss gold and that's what I imagine, black lettering with a shiny gold border.