S4Simon

Thanks guys, always wanting to try something new and keeping to a strict budget. 🙂

Well I finished the Millennium Falcon, The Bismarck, and the Spitfire and thought I'd have a break from parts builds and move on into the area of Helicopters. Never built one before, so I bought three kits, all larger scale as my eyes like to work on big things. I also wanted to add lighting, motors and sound to the builds. It was a learning process, so the first build just had lights, and the second I got more adventurous and added motors and integrated sound. Anyway I've just finished two of the kits this month. Here's some pics of the builds plus a couple of videos at the end (if you're really bored). 🙂 Completed Apache Video Completed Osprey Video

That's looking really nice. I find this is the best part of builds - the weathering.

Deagostini and other model suppliers just give us the blank canvas to work with. Personally i could not stand looking at a raw underdeveloped finished model. So I always apply my artistic licence.

Chris - Nice job. 🙂 I used the same method on my R2 unit. Just oil paints. Pretty simple and quick. I must admit the ol' R2 unit looked a little naked without weathering. He's a lot more at home now.

As everything was working fine and the internal circuit boards and circuitry are very robust, the problem most likely lies in either an improper lead connection (maybe got snagged during a turret turn) or just replace all batteries. Remembering that the remote batteries only last a couple of days if left in the remote unit.

I can confirm that the base will not turn on with the ship not installed. Ship needs to be installed on the stand for the stand to initialise.

it looks like a simple switch, so a basic toggle switch replacement would suffice. Just extend the wiring and new switch to wherever you want. It's then just a matter of how simple or complex you want the switch to be. Usually I try to replace the simple switch on the Hachette/Deagostini builds with something a little more visually impressive. But in the end it's only a simple on/off switch. Also I lowered the Bismarck base so that it sat lower - looks much better imo.

So the facts are: Press each individual main cannon firing button - no result in audio or mechanical movement Press and run the firing sequence - everything works including the audio and mechanical firing of the main guns. So, that would mean that: The main guns are fully functional. So no issue there. (computers and audio and remote control button are all working). Now if all the individual firing buttons do not work (as you say), that would probably mean that the individual buttons are working (because I doubt that 4 firing buttons would fail - extremely unlikely) but the signal is not being received within the computer module and thus not being sent out to the guns. So looks like there is a possible problem with the main computer assembly. Before going any further I would change the batteries in the remote unit as many users find that they deplete after a few days even when not being used.

After I finished the Bismarck and Spitfire I said to myself that I was going to take a break. But then Agora have mentioned the La Ferrari - dam it. If I get that, I promise it will be the last 🙂

Here's a couple of pics of my finished Deagostini R2 unit. A relatively simple build. The only issues of note are the wires that lead to the light saber ejection tube. These are in close proximity to the spinning head frame. I had to apply some hot glue to the area to reinforce the wires. No other issues to worry about. Easy enough build for a school age person to enjoy. If you've ever wanted a very good replica of the real thing (even though it is only half size), then this I believe is the only option that's fairly priced. Authentic sounds and movement, and a bonus lightsaber - which is cool. Again - as with all my builds, a little bit of weathering goes a long way. Overall I give this build an 8/10. Difficulty rating: 6. Value for money: 7 Final product authenticity: 9

Here's a parts build that has divided the parts modelling community. I personally thoroughly;y enjoyed the build. And yes there were a few engineering issues throughout the build process. But with a little engineering thought, the problems were easily resolved prior to completion. The end result is a super static model of the Spitfire, with the added bonus that it goes through a full take off / flying / landing mission via the use of the rather large 'dynamic stand' (same idea as the Zero). I created my own dynamic stand - much smaller and more interactive for around $50. This build requires more patience and a bit of an engineering modelling background. I give this build a 6/10 for engineering and a 9/10 for finished product. Value for money is an 8/10. Again with a splash of weathering it produces a fine version of the Mk1A Spitfire. Youtube video

Of all the parts builds I have completed, this has to be the most enjoyable by a long way. Attention to detail was amazing and the engineering that went into the build is astonishing. And with a splash of weathering it looks great. I rate this kit as a 10/10 for both quality and builder satisfaction. Well worth the purchase price.

Same switch problem with me. I just removed the clear plastic part. Turns on by touch, and to turn off I just use a pin to touch the spring inside. Simples.

I seem to have deleted my reference photos. But there are two different problems with the rear radar assy. One was that one of the metal spindles was about 3mm too short, thus when everything was put together the gear on the spindle would just separate from the other connecting gear. This is why some people just hear a whining noise and no spin when power is applied. Hence why adding a couple of mm from a round toothpick to the plastic housing hole solved that issue. Second issue, screwing the parts together caused all the gears to bind. And hence no turn when power was applied. I applied grease to all gears and moving spindles and also very very lightly screwed the parts together. Ensure new batteries are installed. Rear radar problems should all be solved.

The master on/off switch on the ship’s base is a capacitive type. A lot of people are having ‘problems with the switch, including me. To resolve the problem I have removed the clear plastic part of the switch. I can then touch the switch to turn on still, but to turn off I just poke a pin or similar down the hole to touch the coil part of the switch, this turns the ship off. Simples.

Only recommendation would be to swap it over with another switch lead that has excessive length.

I made a jig which made life a lot easier, and less stressful.

This is the path that cable B3 should take. Should be no issues if the correct path is taken.

Just going back thru my build pics. The length of the B3 cable is fine. There’s excess cabling in my pic. My only suggestion is to make sure the cable routing is correct. With regard to parts, I think the only option nowadays is eBay. What issue parts are you needing?

Really nice work on the Zero. 🙂

It’s already been done by another parts work company. It’s exactly like the real thing, only half the size. Fully autonomous, with projector and lightsaber 8-)

The aft radar also draws more current than the other two. So any drop in power will cause the aft radar to struggle/cease operating.

The rear radar has an issue in that the metal spindle supplied is too short. Solution is to add a 1mm cut piece from a toothpick and insert it into where the metal spindle goes to lift the spindle so as to makes contact with the top hole. Otherwise the gear on the spindle will just slip out of place and spin, causing the whining sound but no radar movement. The outer casing also has to be left just a little loose otherwise binding will occur. If all that is done then the radar will turn ok. This issue has been raised on all the other facebook pages so affects pretty much all builders.

Very enjoyable build. End result is a finely detailed model that sits well in any model display. Short video of my completed model with static pics and operational display at the end.