Triplevalve
-
Posts
19 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Blogs
Events
Articles
Store
Downloads
Posts posted by Triplevalve
-
-
Certainly.
https://store.brightcomponents.co.uk/product/10x-5mm-warm-white-diffused-led-10-pieces/
Also bought a DPDT switch so that I can attempt to split the indicators so that they operate as intended rather than hazard lights.
Both pictures show the extra LED fitted to the roof. (Not wired in yet though)
Used a piece of 1/4" tube to represent the collar around the bulb.
Needs a bit of a tweak, connecting up and than find a dab of paint.
Hope that is of help.
-
1
-
-
Yes that is a nice way of hiding it away.
I took it out and going to re-use the LED for the route number box.
I used that Revell paint also and it matches quite well.
Does'nt the camera flash show up the little faults!!!
-
1
-
-
Obtained some 5 mm defused warm white LED's which about match the size of the shades.
Also about the same brightness as the original lights but may need a tweak once I messed about with them.
Measured the top deck lighting and 2.7v at the plug at the end of the run for those who may be interested.
-
1
-
-
The penny did not drop with me either!!
I put the roof parts together and did not notice.
I placed the top deck on the bus and it has been sat on a table until I crack on with mods.
Something just caught my eye .... just not quite in balance .... and yep their missing!!
Going to look for extra LED's but shades may be a problem. (Buy extra issues??)
Although if I can find a suitable size may not need them.
-
Sorry Giddykippa maybe I should have been clearer.
There are 6 lights down each side of a Routemaster upper deck not 5 as supplied.
Count 5 windows along from the front and there is a set of seats with no light above them.
-
That is good to hear.
Also noticed that there are 2 Ceiling Lights missing from the upper deck!
Part 72A only has 2 LED's that go over Part 84A.
However there should be a extra light in between those LEDs as per the front set of lights.
Looks like another thing to look into adding.
-
Before I go chopping things about has anyone tested the control board output voltages?
Obviously some outputs are not constant etc but the lighting should stay constant when set.
We know the supply is 4.5v but is that fully used or is there internal resistors on the lighting/destination blind circuits. (I have noted the 64ohm resistors on the saloon light strips)
Have not got a multi-meter with me at present so may have to wait until next week but would like to crack on a bit.
-
That me who's loosing the light. I believe LTE modded them out during body overhauls in the 1960's anyway (Same as the offside rear route number box.) I think it could made to look a lot better by using a smd LED and remodelling a lens cover and the panel.
Also Humbol No 73 WINE appears to be a good paint match.
-
Has anyone found paint matches for the interior panels?
I am participially interested in a red/maroon paint.
This due to the fact that I am removing the stairwell light and need to fill the "holes".
-
An excellent share Giddykippa.
You are further along than I am. Just need to get an appropriate switch and connect it all up.
-
1
-
-
Lower saloon progress.
Painted the floor to darken it a tad and also scored in some extra slats.
Also scored the outline for the gearbox trapdoor.
The brown looks a little odd due to the flash.
Painted the seat frames and filled the screw holes on the seat back cushions.
Painted the coving at the bottom of the sidewalls silver.
-
1
-
-
Found numerous internal pictures showing the restoration of RM1033 here http://rm1033.weebly.com/ for those looking for some inspiration or a little guidance.
I noticed that the seat frames have more chrome parts, the supports should be a shade of red and the heater covers at floor level appear to be sliver.
-
Taffy
I just made up a new mount with plasticard to look more like the original.
It's purely cosmetic but does support the engine.
However, it still stops the steering arm as noted in the other threads/posts.
I am not sure if there is/was a fix when the model was originally released.
-
1
-
-
Slowly plodding along with several tweaks ongoing.
Reformed the radiator and replaced the engine front support beam. Also enlarging the wheel well which will needed to be painted red.
Repainted the cab with a different brown and fitted a "mat" under the steering column.
Started to paint the window frames black, but not going too far until the widows arrive in the next pack.
New handbrake gaiter and removed the seat fixture.
I intend to fit the seat onto the front wall.
-
1
-
-
I have replaced the pipes on the gearbox and attempted to run them as per the bus.
Extra pipes/cables to be do next.
Also replaced the "brake lines" with steel wire.
These are connected to the handbrake via several turnbuckles.
-
2
-
-
Yes Giddykippa. Very tight.
Also when offering up the front radiator panel I thought the cab was twisted because there seemed to be a number a large gaps.
However once getting a single MM screw to hold things together it seemed much better. (this happens in issue 41)
I think it is still going to be bit of a pull to get front radiator panel and cab together!
-
Not had a problem with this but I have found there is quite a bit of "slop" on this part.
I have found that the paint has sometimes filled a screwhole here and there and so I have "cleared" it with a pin.
-
1
-
-
"Routemaster 4 Hire" on youtube has a number of useful videos showing both interior and underframe details.
Also on youtube there is "ROUTEMASTER RM597 Cab Restoration" showing a slideshow of a cab repaint.
SO it looks like a chocolate brown and black colour scheme is the way to go.
And without hijacking the thread this is how far I have gone with the cab.
Another new model, should be announced at the end of October.
in New Product Announcements
Posted
Just to add a few comments.
I am by know means an expert and please correct me if you like.
But don't forget that there only few manufactures of these models as opposed to a number of distributors, and they generally do not sell directly.
IXO seem to be an exception, and are increasing there range of large scale models.
There will be a number of costs associated with the development and production of these models.
I guess the numbers have to add up before there is a go ahead.
That's generally why the model will be of a “known” subject.
So, if correct, an early Stingray should be very popular.
Of course re-releases should be easier due to the tooling probably still being held, and some market information will be available.
I would like to see the Mercedes-Benz 300 SL Gullwing re-appear, and would certainly consider that as the next model I would like to do.
If we are looking for a re-release of a previous 1/8 model what about the Russian ZIS-110 limousine (2016).
I know, pretty unlikely due to the current situation but what a beastie!