[my W196R Stirling Moss]

Left hand, front wheel well back close to the horizontal wing.

[Why is there not a train partwork?]

The Hatchette model train I was referring to is a German Locomotive, which is screwed together, however, it is quite a large model

https://youtu.be/SJGlrUFIVnk

[Why is there not a train partwork?]

Hatchett in Germany also provide a locomotive, however, only within Europe

[Mark's E-Type - The Wheel]

I must admit, after leaving them to soak in boiling water for 15 minutes, this made them soft enough to fit to the rim.

[Baureihe 01 Dampflok 1:22,5 Hachette Bauvideos - Diashow]

Looks a good model, however a bit big for me.  It's a shame that Hatchette (Germany) does not supply outside of Europe, the Unimog looks a good build as well.

[Steering - the frame stops front left wheel from turning left]

The universal joints are the issue, they have only one swiveling knuckle and one fixed, hence not being able to fully swivel.  This means it keeps jamming against the frame.

 

[Broken Agora website]

Despite the 404 warning, the download site is still available at the top right of the web page.

This link took me to the 917 manuals https://www.agoramodels.com/us/download-center/porsche-917

[Build instructions]

Correct me if I am wrong, I believe that the 16/6 are the front tires and the 16/7 are the rear tires.  There does not appear to be any difference between the tires for the regular wheels or the easy ones.

[FINISHED!]

I must admit, I have been keeping a spreadsheet of the screws, which also allows me to cross reference the spares with other models (as they all seem to label them differently).  Thereby, using slightly longer or shorter screws then in the instructions.

[FINISHED!]

I received a spare gold screw (NM) for each side so have 2 spare left.

 

[Pocher Lotus D72]

Thanks for the photos, they are a great help in my progress.  It's always better seeing a photo/3D image as the instruction manual is a bit 2D and not always intuitive of component/tubing layouts.

Just added the tail unit to the gearbox.

[Build instructions]

Yes, the regular is more realistic as it uses individual spokes, unlike the easy version which is basically 2 discs with the necessary gaps, leaving a flat spoke finish.

I made mine with the spokes, it looks a lot better.  Also, I found that the spokes were easier to complete than the ones I did on the Jaguar.

[Pocher Lotus D72]

Definitely on my next build wish list, I remember making the Tamiya plastic kit back in the late 70's, which was a detailed model at the time.

[A sneaky preview of the model!]

Hi, I'm building the IXO Juan Fangio version of the Mercedes, and I must admit, the spoked wheels are a lot easier than the ones on E-Type Jaguar.  The spoked versions are a lot more convincing than the easy version.  Rather than attempt to apply the small fiddly pieces of double-sided sticky tape, I used PVA to temporarily stick the spokes in place.

[My Build]

I didn't use any electrical aids.  I applied a thin layer of PVA glue to the item, then sprinkled the flock over the items until fully covered.  It just seems to linger onto other surfaces.

[My Build]

Completed the Jaguar E-Type

Only minor modifications such as painting the shock absorbers red and chrome (front and rear).  Painted the engine block gold and black (inspired by another builder).  Also painted the disc calipers gold.

Was not happy with the electrical distribution/fuse box lack of cables, so added some black and red cables (30cwg wire).

Again inspired by other builders, I flocked the cockpit floor, seat back and transmission tunnel.  also flocked the boot, including the carpet inlay.

Finally, I was not happy with the front light cable routing, therefore, I routed the cables via the bonnet hinge, then cable tied to the engine frame towards the rear.  Looks a lot neater then cables just dangling around the engine bay.

[Pack 11 - Stage 83. The luggage rack.]

Hi, followed you tips to fixing the luggage rack.  First hole drill using 1mm drill, then using a 1.6mm drill from the outside.  This gave a nice snug fit for the rack instead of the 1.8mm that you used.

[Battery Type]

Many thanks

[Battery Type]

Hi, it's probably been asked before, however, I can seem to find it. 

What battery is required for the E-Type Jaguar please?

[Screw standardization across models?]

No, the Jaguar E Type has a different screw identification system, and slightly different sizes

[Front Indicators Finished Result]

Thanks Julian

It's down to the ground work by yourself and Giddykippa, that lead me to look for a less obtrusive method, hence using the holes already provided.  Must admit, it was not easy to drill a 1mm hole through the locating peg, as this was only about 1.7mm diameter.

[Front Indicators Finished Result]

Thanks Giddykippa

Next model will be the Jaguar E Type, British classic.

[Front Indicators Finished Result]

My attempt to get the front indicators working.  I drilled a 1mm hole through the bracket locating peg to run the LED wires through (note the off side locating hole is a blind hole, so had to drill that as well 1.5mm).

I drilled a 1.5mm hole into the indicator from below the hinge at a slight upward angle, in about 3 to 4mm

I then joined all of the wiring via the front hinged grill

Thanks to the other Modder for their ideas and tips, you may also note I also install an LED into the nearside marker light.

[Front Indicators]

Thanks, I only received my part yesterday afternoon, so looking forward to seeing NM screws in my sleep, Ha Ha

[Front Indicators]

Would be good to see some pictures of Julians installation to get a better understanding of fixing to the indicator.