[Joel's Bus Build]

I used Tamiya Red #8. I actually had trouble matching until I changed the primer to a very pale grey. Worked way better. 

[Joel's Bus Build]

Yes just glue. I used 2 part epoxy and screwed the panels in place (every second or third screw) when set I removed the screws and then attached the styrene strip (prepainted) using cyanoacrylate. Way easier than I thought it would be. The 1/2 rounds on the roof were the trickiest as the didn't want to bend so much so I used a heat gun to decrease the stress on the glue. I had to be careful not to melt the model windows. If I was doing it again I would make a form and form each roof rib before painting and applying to the model. 

[Joel's Bus Build]

Here's the completed roof and an almost complete side view.

[Joel's Bus Build]

Well GiddyKippa I finally started the roof. I am using 1/8  1/2 round and then the 1/8" rivet strips on each side. I've seen similar on Real Routemaster roofs. Also added two more in keeping with the real roofs. Quite easy and way better than the staggered row of screws provided.

[Joel's Bus Build]

After epoxying on the various panels I am now trying to glue on these plastic strips with a bit of cyanoacrylate. Her is a small corner started:

[Joel's Bus Build]

And the winner is.... I built a jig out of two pieces of plexiglass. I glued in a couple of guides to keep the strip styrene straight and using a drill press drilled a series of holes the size of a pin. I went completely through the upper piece of plexiglass and about .05" into the lower. I then took a bunch of regular pins and rounded off their tips with a dremel tool. I put in a strip of styrene and then using a small hammer or piece of wood whacked the pin into each hole until the strip was done. Then primed and painted.

[Joel's Bus Build]

Trial number 3 I downloaded some STL of real rivets and shrunk them down and then printed dozens of rivets using a resin printer. Fantastic results but getting them to reliably stick to the plastic or metal strips or drill multiple holes in a straight line was very time consuming. I ended up using them for the windows and a few places where needed but for  the majority this was not a realistic option. 

[Joel's Bus Build]

Ah Rivets.... Well I've been working hard on this one. I looked for premade rivet strips and they are available but would cost almost as much as the entire model. I next tried my standard ponce wheel

 

even if I could get the wheel to run straight with a jig the resulting rivets were mere suggestions and not nice clear rivets. 

[Joel's Bus Build]

Thanks for that. Now comes the hard part. Gotta figure out some way of replacing all the screws with rivet heads.

 

[Joel's Bus Build]

Well finally finished most of the characters aboard the bus. I also worked on a couple of really obvious problems: the screw jutting out into the stairwell and the lighting over the stairs having no proper back and being visible from above. I had to remove the "wings" from the lamp shade and glue it in place then insert the LED and patch with filler. The stairwell was easy - just a touch with the dremel and some paint. Needs a second coat but I'm much ,ore pleased.

[Joel's Bus Build]

You are too kind. So much to learn. Love this kit.

[Joel's Bus Build]

12 months so just the last 3 to go. Just got #10 and finishing up #9.

[Joel's Bus Build]

Well the work progresses. I've been bogged down painting/repainting figures. I bought a few dollhouse 1/12 figures and I did manage to find the Hachette set. Takes me about a day or two per figure. Lots of layers and shadows. They each have irises and shiny sclera. 

[Joel's Bus Build]

OK finishing up the seats. A lot of work to fill all the holes in the seat backs and repaint. I painted the frame chrome. I also shaped the bracket that holds it to the wall so there is only one hole and it is more prototypical. I also decided to glue the  end walls together and try and avoid the screw heads where visible. My colour matching isn't perfect but it works. I can't do the front wall until I get the bonnet hinges installed so I'm waiting for that. Should be coming any day.

[Joel's Bus Build]

Not rude at all. I am trying for a well worn but still working bus. I've seen some pictures with similar sort of aging and thought it would be interesting. Certainly when I've had the chance  (over 30 years ago now) to ride one of these there was dirt on the floors and seatbacks. The outside was still relatively clean but the interior was a bit faded. I'm trying to capture a well used bus.

[Joel's Bus Build]

[Joel's Bus Build]

Painted the hose on the piping black and added some hose clamps. Much better.

[Joel's Bus Build]

Tried a two toned effect on the cab wall and some peeling paint on the steering wheel like I saw in some old photos. Repaited and weathered the control lever as many others have done.

[Joel's Bus Build]

I got my replacement parts for the last pack so could finish the chassis.

[Progress so far and Modifications]

wow looks great.

[Joel's Bus Build]

I think these were from Autograph. I used the .7mm wire with .8mm nuts.

[Joel's Bus Build]

Hi Giddy,

Glad you like it. I just bought some .7mm, .5mm and .3mm copper wire and some tiny nuts from the hobby store. Don't even remember which one at this point, it was so long ago. It often comes in handy for various builds.

[Joel's Bus Build]

Also reworked the engine and added the fuel filter support and the spring for the oil filler cap. Also redid all the fuel lines to be more in scale. A lot of fiddly work but I like the effect. The band clamps are from Autograph models.

[Joel's Bus Build]

Got pack 3 and some missing parts from pack 2 so I can move forward. I finished the front axle and added some weathering. Not sure if I over did it of not. It is the undercarriage afterall.

[Wheels and Step modifications]

Hi Julian, nice build so far. Do you have a link to that video? I was hoping to copy a few thing myself but it is no longer available.

TIA

Joel