[Porsche 917K]

I'm a bit closer as I live in the Portland Oregon area. Are you interested in making the kit stock or do you want some minor appearance upgrades? 

[my W196R Stirling Moss]

On 4/17/2023 at 2:00 AM, keramh said:

Hello,
I use commercial artist oil paints.
These can be wiped off immediately as required or later if you want the effect to be more intense.
Sealing is not necessary after drying.

I will start aging the "silver" parts soon based on your help and examples. Have you thought about how you are going to age the "black" frame? Will you be using gray and brown washes? I have not found reference photos of the frame yet. I would like to get an idea of the type of wear the frame experienced. I would expect some chipping, grime and oil. I would not expect rust on a race car - any thoughts on this topic? 

Keep the photos coming. Very helpful. Your model looks fantastic. It is inspiring me to expand my weathering/aging use. 

[my W196R Stirling Moss]

On 4/18/2023 at 2:19 AM, keramh said:

Grinding the treads is always the first step.

Then I stir a solution of spirit/alcohol and chalk in a wide variety of colors, this mixture can be applied after and when the alcohol has evaporated, wipe off well on the tires there is a slight hint of residue, which imitates the very realistic road dust.

Excellent suggestion. I will try a few variations on some spare tires I have to see what is possible. 

[my W196R Stirling Moss]

Thank you for the additional information. Are there other weathering or aging technics you have tried? I posted a question on tires. I have a few of the Agora 1:8 models (312 T4, 917KH, Shelby Cobra, W196), and I would like to show slight use on the tires. I was going to try a light sanding followed by a gray wash. Any thoughts? 

Cheers 

[my W196R Stirling Moss]

Could you please expand on your aging techniques? Are you just using oil paints or other? Do you apply and let it partially set before removing the excess? Do you use washes or do you seal the treatment with a varnish after you get the desired results? 

In building aircraft models, sepia oil paint is often used. What colors do you use? 

I really like the finished look and would like to try it on my W196. I appreciate any specifics you are willing to share. 

Cheers 

On 4/15/2023 at 10:54 AM, keramh said:

I wanted to assemble the frame first and then age it completely, but that's not possible because you can't get the built-in parts into the frame afterwards. So we continue with the gearbox and the brake drums.

 

 

The two half-shells are connected by the gearbox.

 

 

Then the cardan shaft and a retaining bracket are mounted.

 

 

 

Now we come to the large brake drums into which we insert the drive shafts and then close them.

 

 

 

This unit is now placed in the gearbox shell and screwed to the gearbox cover.

 

 

 

At the end, a "funnel" is mounted and the entire assembly can be put into the frame for a test.

 

 

 

Here you can clearly see that everything looks so clean that it is quite toy-like, so out with the gears again

 

 

Everything neatly pasted with oil paint

 

 

and everything superfluous removed.

 

 

 

It all looks a lot more realistic this way, and the other add-on parts on the frame were also treated in this way.

 

 

Now the wheel suspensions follow.

 

 

The shock absorbers have an interesting connection mechanism. I had to think of a retractable ballpoint pen.

 

 

Here also an original assembly and the aged one on the other side of the vehicle for comparison.

 

 

When everything is dry now, which takes a little longer with oil paints (2-3 days), everything can be mounted in the frame.

 

 

 

[Which glue?]

Glue :  I like to use thin CA glue with hoses, especially joining the metal cable material into the metal tubes. I don't have a favorite brand. White "school glue" is good for joining clear parts or even temporary adhesion. I have had mixed results using an accelerator spray to reduce the cure time. I have had it damage the surface treatment on parts beyond reasonable repair. Alway test on scrap if you must use. There has been one occasion when I have used UV cured adhesive to bond a stubborn joint. No sticky fingers, strong and easy to control. It is not a replacement for CA or plastic adhesive that melts the materials to form the bond. Fast, strong, clean, controllable. 

Oil for Screws:  I have used old fashion 3 in ONE oil on all of my Agora models when installing screws into metal. I just put a few drops in a bottle cap and it lasts the whole evening. Easy to wipe off surfaces, clings to the screw etc. Highly recommend and very inexpensive. I have not experienced any damage to finishes, paint, or other surface treatments. Many people use as a cutting oil when machining metals. Silicone based oils can be very messy and hard to remove from surfaces and skin. Of course 3 in ONE is not water soluble. I use washes on many parts, especially engine and suspension. I wipe the surface to ensure there is no residual oil from fingers or 3 in ONE oil before applying wash.

Hope this helps, cheers 

[Tire Treatment Suggestions]

I'm asking this not only for my 312 T4, but in general. Any suggestions on washes or other treatment to modify the surface of the tires? I was going to gently sand the surface and then apply a grey wash in the tread region. 

Any thoughts on how to take away the "model" look of the tires. Slicks are a bit more straight forward - I was going to lightly sand the gloss off the contact surface. Treads is where I would like suggestions. Photos of finished look appreciated. Cheers 

[Out of the Box, or Custom]

The question is: with a car so well known, documented, and available in multiple scales, should you build the model as the model designer intended, or add "something unique"?

This is my third Agora car and my 4th 1/8 scale model. As such I'm spending a lot of time researching source photos from the racing period, as well as restored drivable and museum examples. In many ways the car out of the box is pretty true to life. There are definitely areas, such as the engine, cockpit and suspension that are ripe for expanding the paint treatment. I have procured a wide range of Vallejo metallics and are testing coverage and tonal differences. Similarly, washes will help temper the factory fresh appearance and add some race miles. I have used washes on the Agora Porsche 917 Kh and dirtying-up the engine has brought out a lot of detail. 

I intend to post photos of the details and results once I start the actual build. Perhaps other builders will do the same. 

There does not appear to be many if any 1/8 scale aftermarket parts available, and I lack a 3D printer to fabricate details. Any builders planning to add details? If yes, please upload your ideas and methods. 

If there is interest in the reference material I have identified, please let me know and I will upload. 

I'm interested in your opinions and approach. Out of the box or custom, please share your thoughts. Looking forward to hearing from you. 

Cheers and enjoy, Phil 

[Pedal Assembly Mount Issue Anyone?]

13 hours ago, Cubicle23 said:

Hey all, just wondering if anyone else has found this mounting to be problematic? On my chassis, the clutch side mounting hole is bored incorrectly for a KM screw. The throttle side mounting hole and the outside diameter of the bosses are fine. Will probably just fill the hole and re-drill to correct size.

Hey all, 

Regarding the pedal assembly question:

I assembled the pedal assy Sunday evening. No issues, just wish I had an extra hand or two to hold the various bits when trying to slide the pin through all of the 3 pedals. No additional filling or drilling reqd. 

Other notes from Pack 4;

Ignition Wires 

In the same pack I did find the second length of orange tubing was not included. Agora is sending replacement. First side installed well by inserting 0.6mm wire inside of the tubing (5mm shorter than required tube length) prior to securing both ends. I also used 0.3 wire to bundle each of the 2 main wire bundles on their way to the distributor. Highly recommend using tne 0.6mm (or 0.5mm) inside the tube runs. If anyone needs more information, please reach out. I will use this technique on the Ferrari 312-T4 ignition and other tubing. I wish I had used the wire on my Shelby Cobra build! 

Phil 

[Delivery!]

On 9/3/2022 at 10:13 PM, BigDee said:

Hi

When are we receiving delivery of the first pack?

Thanks 

My Ferrari 312 T4 arrived today! Amazing. More to come, but skimmed the instructions. Details are insane.