Pack 12 - stage 96. Front right bumper and rear lights.

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Stage 96 gives us the front right bumper and the rear LED lights.

Start with fitting the reflector to the rear right light cluster.  This is a push fit, but one of mine dropped out a few days later, so perhaps a drop of PVA glue might be a good idea.

Fit this to the body with a screw.

Now we move on to the bonnet.  Put the bonnet in position with the model upside down. Run the lighting wires through the engine bay tot he underside of the chassis as shown.  Don't worry too much at this stage as it's easy to re-run the cables after the bonnet is fixed with its hinges.

Hold the bonnet in place so that the front chassis bar sits in the hinges in the bonnet.

Here's close-up.

Fit the hinge plates with a couple of screws in each.

Here's a close-up.  Note the position of the tab which stops the bonnet opening too far.

Take the LEDs supplied and plug them into the respective sockets on the circuit board.

Plug cable 01 from the bell housing to cable 01 on the circuit board.

Continue to plug in all the remaining cables from the front of the model.

Push the rear light LEDs into the light clusters.  LEDs 08 & 09 go into the inner holes, and LEDs 10 (there are two LEDs on the one cable) go into he outer holes.

Now tame the cables by taping them down with the tape supplied.

Masking tape also works well, if you run out of the tape supplied.

Make sure that the cable 05 goes to the side of this screw hole.

Fit the fuel tank top.

Followed by the base.

This completes the stage, but the smart modeller will now test the electronics.

Fit 3 LR44 button cells into the battery holder in the engine oil sump.

The switch in the footwell will operate the headlights and rear lights.

The brake pedal will operate the brake lights.  I.e.  The rear lights get brighter.

Pressing the button on the dash will operate the hazard lights.

 

This completes the stage.

 

[keramh]

Hello,

 

you did a good job of clearing the wiring. My tip would be to simply leave out the cardan shaft. This gives you more space for the cables.

What do you say about the light? it just seems too cold to me, too bluish for this time. I think warm white LEDs would be better suited.

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

7 hours ago, keramh said:

Hello,

 

you did a good job of clearing the wiring. My tip would be to simply leave out the cardan shaft. This gives you more space for the cables.

What do you say about the light? it just seems too cold to me, too bluish for this time. I think warm white LEDs would be better suited.

The prop shaft is all but invisible on the completed model and could be left out, but there is actually plenty of room to put the wiring in the tunnel alongside the shaft.

I think a warmer headlight colour would have been more authentic.