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James H

James H's GT500

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Ok, 

I wanted to stick my flag in the ground and claim the first member build on what is Agora's first ever release. At the moment, I'm still building Pack 1 and have some photos to edit, but here's proof that I'm actually doing something. I'll have the complete Pack 1 update on this topic in the next couple of days .Loving it so far!

With all the chrome on there, the polishing cloth is a nice touch. My only critique so far is that I wish the screwdriver was magnetic. Still.....absolutely no problem!

I am the first member build log, and I claim my £5! 🤣

 

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And we're off!

PACK 1

I've only recently started building 1:8 cars as part-works, and I have to say that this model is gorgeous. The parts are seriously high quality with everything fitting perfectly so far, and the paint finish is immaculate. Packaging is the same sort of thing you see with similar kits from DeAg, but this one comes in a real study box to protect those parts. The colour info sheet is excellent and the inclusion of a polishing cloth is a nice touch does help at the end of a session when you pop things away until the next pack....and especially for taking photos for a build log. 

 

Things start nice and easy with the front fascia and bottom grille

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The photo-etch grill is nice and sturdy and fits into the interior of the fascia, secured by a couple of screws. There is a little side-side movement so make sure the alignment looks even and then tighten up those screws.

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Next up is the bumper. This fits with the pips on the upper side and the recess on the lower side. Pop this into place and secure with the supplied screws.

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The headlight units are pre-made, and marked as 'L' and 'R' on the rear side. Take each in turn and slot into position from the front of the fascia.

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Flip the fascia over and secure with screws. Make sure these are nice and tight.

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Now, it's the turn of the left hand door, also with its famous livery. We now need to fit the mirror unit.

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The mirror unit has a tab which goes through the slot in the main door panel. 

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Two screws now secure this from within the door panel. This will pull it up nicely into place. Again, make sure it's tight, and careful not to scratch any paintwork.

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It's now the turn of the door handle. This can only fit into the exterior of the door in one way.

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Again, from the interior, secure this with a single small screw.

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And here is the result.

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Care needs to be taken over the next stages because you really don't want to damage this beautifully clear part.

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Screw the window unit into place within the door interior, using three screws.

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Next, fit the hinge. Note the orientation of this as it's important.

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Now fit the retaining plate with the bevel facing upwards. Secure with a screw.

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We can now start building the door interior. Take the inside door panel and lower trim strip, and fasten in place with two screws.

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The door handle bracket needs to be orientated in the correct way here. Take the interior door handle and fit it like this.

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Now fasten the bracket into the back of the door panel, slotting the handle through the hole. Take another screw and screw this into the back of the handle. This will stop it from rocking about.

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The window crank handle now fits into this recess. This is tabbed so it fits in the correct position. Screw this tightly from behind.

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The interior door panel can now be fitted to the inside of the main door, and secured with two screws.

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The upper trim strip now fits in place and hides the screw holes. This needs to be fitted carefully so as not to damage the door fittings. 

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A driver needs somewhere to sit, and this is it. The backrest and backrest frame are now pushed together and secured with four screws.

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Superglue is now dripped into the three holes in the unit. The instructions say to apply this to the pins, but it's safer to do it this way as the glue can't run anywhere and ruin the parts.

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Push the soft plastic upholstery unit into the holes. The tab helps with alignment.

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The driver's seat back part now locates to the base. You can easily see how these go together with the channel.

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The driver's seat upholstery (with pre-fitted trim) now sits in place over this and is screwed together from underneath.

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The finished unit looks like this and can also be tilted forward.

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Pack 1 is now at completion and I hope to be able to bring Pack 2 to you fairly soon.

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Nice job but you are not the first to have this pack 😉

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1 minute ago, asiris28 said:

Nice job but you are not the first to have this pack 😉

 

Er, I don't think I said I was 😉 

1319085850_Screenshot2020-01-31at15_13_05.thumb.png.e9bf933139bccac00318a1d3b8750d0c.png

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no of course and thank you for your build diary.

I received this pack in december but i need to wait the first shipment to make diary so 5£ is for me 😁

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I have just finished the first pack. Not going to post photos as yet because they would just be a repetition of others. The only thing that went wrong was the quarter-light catch was knocked off, as warned about in the instructions, but easy to superglue back on. Trust me, if there is to be a problem then I will find it. Nice easy start though. Much better when issued like this in multiple sections rather than the normal part works that take some time to get anywhere. Well done Agora.

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Glad you're enjoying it. Thanks for reminding everybody about the quarter-light, that is one to be careful with! Just to note if you do have any problems with parts, let us know so we can sort you out with a replacement. 

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I just finished the first shipment as well. This is my fourth large scale model, after doing the R2D2 from Deagostini, the Aston Martin DB5 by Eaglemoss and the (still unfinished) Delorean DMC12. I was kinda frustrated with EM for being very inconsistent in their deliveries and their continues lack of stock of parts. Come on, people, these are heavily overpriced models to build, so at least keep some stock. The Dutch subscription was very inconsistent and the issues bought at the webshop take ages to arrive. For example, I placed and order, and it takes two weeks to ship them, and another three weeks to deliver. Are they shipping them by bike or what? So this was what caught my intention in Agora - promise of continuous stock and deliveries as promised. Let's see how this turns out, shipment 1 passed the test. The quality of items is very good, good to the touch but indeed: the screwdriver needed to be magnetized upfront. Also, the bags of the screws are a pain to open. But the building steps were clearly defined and it didn't take too long to finish the first six packs. Now to wait for the next one. 

I was kinda surprised that people commented on the fact that the Mustang was identifical to the Shelby issues earlier by the competition, just with fresh colours and some new details. And indeed, the building steps look alike. In 'World of Wayne' on Youtube (check it out) it was promised that Agora would explain the differences between the cars but I haven't read that anywhere yet. Also, I am looking forward to other builds of Agora. Just putting up covered models with 'Spring 2020', 'Summer 2020', etc., doesn't do it for me. Why the secrecy? 

So for now: happy with the service and product, but still a little too soon to have a good judgement on the new kid on the block. If promises are kept, then this brand is really looking good, especially if they can get some stunning iconic car models. I would suggest K.I.T.T., Ferrari from Magnum PI or Miami Vice, Christine, or even the Mutt Cuts car from 'Dumb and dumber'. 

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On 2/7/2020 at 6:49 PM, Marc Lobbes said:

I just finished the first shipment as well. This is my fourth large scale model, after doing the R2D2 from Deagostini, the Aston Martin DB5 by Eaglemoss and the (still unfinished) Delorean DMC12. I was kinda frustrated with EM for being very inconsistent in their deliveries and their continues lack of stock of parts. Come on, people, these are heavily overpriced models to build, so at least keep some stock. The Dutch subscription was very inconsistent and the issues bought at the webshop take ages to arrive. For example, I placed and order, and it takes two weeks to ship them, and another three weeks to deliver. Are they shipping them by bike or what? So this was what caught my intention in Agora - promise of continuous stock and deliveries as promised. Let's see how this turns out, shipment 1 passed the test. The quality of items is very good, good to the touch but indeed: the screwdriver needed to be magnetized upfront. Also, the bags of the screws are a pain to open. But the building steps were clearly defined and it didn't take too long to finish the first six packs. Now to wait for the next one. 

I was kinda surprised that people commented on the fact that the Mustang was identifical to the Shelby issues earlier by the competition, just with fresh colours and some new details. And indeed, the building steps look alike. In 'World of Wayne' on Youtube (check it out) it was promised that Agora would explain the differences between the cars but I haven't read that anywhere yet. Also, I am looking forward to other builds of Agora. Just putting up covered models with 'Spring 2020', 'Summer 2020', etc., doesn't do it for me. Why the secrecy? 

So for now: happy with the service and product, but still a little too soon to have a good judgement on the new kid on the block. If promises are kept, then this brand is really looking good, especially if they can get some stunning iconic car models. I would suggest K.I.T.T., Ferrari from Magnum PI or Miami Vice, Christine, or even the Mutt Cuts car from 'Dumb and dumber'. 

Thanks for your comments on Pack 1. We will keep it going for shipment 2 and beyond, it’s the Agora Promise! There is no secrecy. We are just really busy and working so hard to create the best scale models possible. As soon as we have everything in place, we will share the news with everyone who has registered their interest with us. Cheers

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Pack 2 arrived last week, so here we go with the next update.

There was a certain amount of repetition with this pack as we get to build the right-hand door and also the right seat, but it's all good clean fun, plus we get to see a large chunk of heavy metal that forms the rear chassis. Ok, here we go...

 

 

Stage 7: Right door assembly

As you can see, we are going to build the right-hand side door, giving us a matching pair! Good to get both of these so early in the build. 

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The handle is taken and pushed into the soles on the metal door panel. This only fits one way, so no problems here.

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A single screw secures the handle from within the door panel.

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Stage 8: Right window assembly

Be careful with the main clear part as there's no protective film on it. Keep it nice and clean with the supplied cloth too. 

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Locating the window to the door panel is a cinch. You really can't get this wrong.

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With it in place, secure with three of the prescribed screws. Careful not to mark that window!

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Now take the hinge and sit in the door slot in this orientation. Note the chamfer on the underside.

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Now take the bracket and push into position over the two pins on the metal door panel. Please note again the chamfer on this part too,

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A single screw locks everything nicely into place.

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Et voila!

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Stage 9: Right door trim

Our packet...

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Take the lower trim strip and push into position on the lower side of the inside panel.

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Secure with two of the correct screws.

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Now take the interior door handle and the door handle bracket and sit together exactly like this.

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Fit the assembly within the inside of the door panel. You'll need to carefully tuck the handle through the slot in the door. Two screws lock the parts into position.

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A further screw stops the handle from waggling about.

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Now the window crank handle is fitted. You'll note a small tab which assists orientation.

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A small screw also holds this in situ.

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Now we take the (almost) completed inside door panel and sit in position within the metal door panel itself. Simply alight the screw holes with the holes in the blank trim area of the inside panel.

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Then finally secure the assemblies together.

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Now it's the turn of the upper trim strip. You need to be careful getting this into position behind the window crank handle. Some careful manipulation is needed. When in place, push it into the interior panel to lock into place.

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...and it looks like this.

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Stage 10: Passenger's seat backrest.

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Take the passenger's seat backrest and backrest frame and sit them together.

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Fasten together with four of the prescribed screws.

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Now take the soft-feel backrest upholstery and push it into position. The chrome plated tab will protrude through the slot in the upholstery.

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There, dead simple!

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Stage 11: Passenger's seat
You'll notice these stages are exactly the same as those from Pack 1. 

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Take the passenger's seat base (with the moulded channel) and sit the backrest into it..

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...just like this. Now we can take the seat cushion and sit in place over the base.

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Flip the seat over and screw tightly into position.

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The finished seat looks like this, and also tilts forward.

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Stage 12: Rear chassis
One large and heavy bag with a single, metal component. We'll need to crack open another packet to be able to use it...

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Stage 13: Fuel tank bottom

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The lower fuel tank pushes into place over the lips on the lower chassis...

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...just like this. I think we'll need our last packet to finish this.

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Stage 14: Fuel tank top and filler hose

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Take the filler hose and sit within the hole on the fuel tank top. This will only go one way due a tab.

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Firmly secure in place.

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Now take the assembly and the lower chassis and fit them together, with the fuel tank filler hose pointing aft.

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Firmly screw together.

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C'est complet!

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Until next time...

😁

 

 

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Nice work! I chose the 24 month sub so still got a long wait until next month for pack 2, by that time you will be in pack 3 haha.

 

Is the fuel tank plastic or metal?

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1 hour ago, Collector_felix said:

Is the fuel tank plastic or metal?

It's a two-part plastic affair. Nicely moulded and plated.

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Ok, onto Pack 3! Let's change that background to white also, as I need to get a new blue sheet and lockdown prevents this!

This is a lovely pack goodies because we now get to work on the lower chassis and put together some large parts that give an impression of just how big this 1:8 beauty will be when complete. Quite a bit of work to do here too, and let's face it, many of us haven't much else to do with our time at the moment! 🤣

 

Stage 15: Rear Main Chassis Assembly
Not much in this packet, but it is pretty significant. Take the rear main chassis part and connect to the fuel tank assembly. As simple as that, but now you can see how this thing is starting to grow, and the fit is superb!

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Stage 16: Rear Floor Pan
Again, only one part here, but I got 2 packs of screws. Only one of them is used, so the other looks like I can just use for any spares I might need (although the instructions also show the pack, but no use for them). Take the Rear Floor Pan part and fit to the rear chassis. Pretty obvious where this goes. It's simply like fitting a square peg to a square hole, metaphorically speaking. Nine screws hold this in place.

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Stage 17: Lower Rear Axle
This pack gives us the differential housing cover and the lower rear axle, plus screws. Take the differential cover and fit two screws into it so they go fully home. This just nests to the outside of the axle. Note the orientation of the differential though. That's pretty crucial.

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Stage 18: Upper Rear Axle
Carrying on from the previous stage, we now get to complete the rear axle using this pack of components. Again, check the orientation of the differential from the previous stage and then fit the upper rear axle. You can clearly see that orientation here. Secure the parts with screws. You can also slip the springs into position too. 

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The upper rear axle assembly can now be fitted to the rear chassis. Noting orientation, sit this so the two rods that the springs are sat on, connect to the lower chassis as thus, and then secure with two screws...

DSC_1750.thumb.jpg.01af67ccd5e54a9f16cc021ef0650eba.jpg

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Stage 19: Left Rear Wheel Housing
Another pack with one part, but oh how beautifully it fits! Take the housing and secure to the left side of the lower chassis with three screws.

DSC_1744.thumb.jpg.01580176e2a1cf094f6aa6e4a1ad401a.jpg

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Stage 20: Left Leaf Spring
Now, you need to pay attention here to make sure you get the orientation of these vital parts, correct. You'll struggle to disassemble otherwise. These photos should clearly show you how this fits. Note the shape and position of the details on the leaf sprint itself, and be careful not to bend this part as it's a little pliable. Take the front shackle (very different to the rear shackle) and note which side of the leaf spring it fits to. Now push the pin into position to secure. One side of this is serrated, and when you push it fully in, those serrations will bite into the plastic and lock it. Use pliers for this.

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Now do the same for the other side...

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The leaf spring can now be fitted to the lower chassis. Note how those shackles match the underside when they fit. Lastly, the spring plate can be fitted with two screws.

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Stages 21 and 22: Right Wheel Housing and Right Leaf Spring
The last two packs are the same as the previous two except we now fit these for the right hand side of the lower chassis.

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And here's how it all looks when done! More next time!

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Pack 4 dropped onto the doormat this week, as the postman legged it quickly in case I gave him coronavirus 😆

Well, I had to make a start, so here we are!

Stage 23: Middle Chassis
A very simple, single piece packet with some screws, but this really starts to make that chassis grow! This simply bolts to the rear chassis that we just saw in my last post.

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Stage 24: Front Floor Pan
Again, another simple, one-part pack, and this one fills in that gaping hole in the middle chassis and extends the channel for the driveshaft. What I like about these parts is how precisely they fit...no faffing or manipulation. Just how it should be.

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Stage 25: Driveshaft
We can now build that driveshaft and install it. I suppose this is where you'll find if you got the differential cover the right way around 😆. Take the two halves and pop them together. They'll only fit one was as the ends aren't symmetrical. The small MP02 screws are what are used to secure them. Once tightened up (not over-tight!), flip the chassis upside down and slot the tabbed end into the differential, with the two protruding lugs pointing towards the chassis, and then turn the assembly around. Using the other screws, secure the driveshaft securely in place.

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Stage 26: Gearbox and Crossmember
Silly me forgot to add the crossmember into the components photo, but you still see me install it. Take the blue gearbox unit and position it as shown. It will only fit one way, so there's no chance of getting it wrong. Flip the chassis over again and secure into position with two screws. Now add the crossmember and again, secure with two screws. 

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Stage 27: Front Chassis
Another single-part stage, but this now extends the chassis into the full length of the GT500, and it's certainly an impressive beast! This is chunky and heavy metal part too. All that needs to be done is to locate it to the chassis section you already built and then bolt into position as shown.

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Stage 28: Front Fender Splash Guards
Only two pieces here, and they do exactly what they say on the tin! I found that adding the screws first and then removing them was the best strategy as you can't get a lot of leverage on that screwdriver with the guards right up against it. Be careful handling the chassis now these are fitted as they could be a little fragile.

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Stage 29: Steering Rods
We can now temporarily put the chassis down as the steering rods are assembled. Quite simply, these three components are bolted together using the MD06 screws. This should not be overtightened as it's a functioning part. I found the screws a little hard to drive in so needed a slightly larger screwdriver with a little more torque.

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Stage 30: Steering and Suspension Components.
Whilst the steering rods were in hand, I took the Pitman Arm and bolted this to the assembly I just built. Again, I needed a larger screwdriver to overcome the difficulty I had fitting these together. 

The suspension arm mounts are then secured to the underside of the chassis via two screws. These are socketed so they won't wobble around. 

Lastly, the steering gear is also screwed into place. Careful with this as it's plastic and you don't want to strip the threads.

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That's it until Pack 5!! For to say this is looking very impressive.

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More next time 😘

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Very nice build diary James. Awesome pictures. I think you could build this without the instructions using your pictures. Where's your Agora Pro badge?

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25 minutes ago, wyatt said:

Very nice build diary James. Awesome pictures. I think you could build this without the instructions using your pictures. Where's your Agora Pro badge?

 

Haha! I don't go into as much detail about which screws etc. unless there's a reason to, otherwise I'd just duplicate the instructions you get to build it! I do spend some time on photos though. The packets are hard to photograph against a white background, but the rest looks ok. I process images though Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop.

Agora Pro? I don't even know what that is! 🤣

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Pictures are, indeed, worth a thousand words. Well done.

Agora Pro. We'll see if Admin. is paying attention.😀

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Pack 5 landed on the doormat late last week, so spent some time on this one. Please excuse some of the interior photos as the velvety interior is quite hard to photo on a white background without highlighting dust etc. The finish itself looks excellent, so I hope I've done it some justice here. 

 

STAGE 31: STABILIZER BAR AND LOWER SUSPENSION ARMS

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This pack is very simple and just adds the stabiliser bar and suspension arms in a single piece. This needs to be able to pivot and flex to is can take the natural suspension of what will be a very heavy model when completed. The stabiliser bar is first screwed into the forward chassis, and then pins used to locate the suspension arms. The pin is serrated and grips the metal of the chassis. I fitted the stabiliser bar first, unlike the instructions said, as this seemed the most natural thing to do.

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Be careful with the pliers so you don't damage any of the metal paintwork.

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STAGE 32: UPPER SUSPENSION ARMS

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More pins to use here as the suspension arms and supports are assembled. I also found the screws a little tight in the metal, so I first put these into the chassis as far as I could get them, then removed them before using them to fit the suspension arms.

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STAGE 33: FRONT INTERIOR FLOOR AND GEAR LEVER

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And now for something completely different! Some interior!

The interior parts of this model have a black velvet-style finish to them, and you'll need to be careful that you don't mark this as you build. I found a piece of de-tacked masking tape was perfect was removing lint and hairs/dust etc. This pack is simple.....we just screw the gearstick to the interior floor by inserting a screw from underneath. Et voila!

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STAGE 34: FRONT SIDE WALLS, PEDALS AND SWITCHES

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We now see the first of the electronic parts in the form of two microswitches for the accelerator and brake pedals. First though, we fit the front side walls, being careful not to damage that velvet interior finish on them.

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The switches are now located to the switch holder, observing the correct position for each 01, 02.

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The switch holder is then clicked to the rear of the interior and screwed into place.

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The pedals are now fitted. I had to make sure the pedal plungers went through the holes in the interior and could make contact with the switches. One of these was a little sticky, so repeated operation freed it up so it worked perfectly.

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STAGE 35: DASHBOARD AND FUSE COVER

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Another dead simple one. The dashboard and fuse cover are now put together. a single screw from the reverse of the dashboard is driven fully home. 

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STAGE 36: DASHBOARD TRIM, DIALS AND SHELBY BADGE

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We can now pretty-up the dashboard area. The first thing to do is apply the self-adhesive stickers for the dials. These are clearly identified for location. these are then peeled from the sheet and applied with some tweezers so I get the correct orientation. 

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The glass dial covers are then clicked into position on the rear of the dashboard trim. The cloth that came with the kit is then used to remove any fingerprints before the trim is sat in position. 

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The dashboard strip with its satin finish is now sat over the chrome trim and screwed into position from behind, locking the metallic parts in place.

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The Shelby badge now has its sticker applied and is screwed to the dash from behind.

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STAGE 37: CENTRAL DIALS, CAR RADIO AND GLOVE COMPARTMENT

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Great to see more interior parts so we can work on the dash. I have to say it's looking pretty darn nice. First up, it's the radio that we need to fit....from the days when you did have to actually tune them in!

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The central dials are now assembled. Firstly, the stickers are added as before, and the dial glass located. I needed to trim a little clear plastic to make this sit flush, and then the frames could be added. The unit was then screwed into position under the radio. 

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Two parts are supplied for the glove box. The interior is screwed into position and then the door is clicked into place from the front. This will open/close.

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Very excited to see the dash unit could now be fitted to the interior. Two screws holds these large units permanently in position. 

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STAGE 38: REAR FLOOR AND FRONT SEAT BELTS

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More care is needed here as we have another velvet finish part in the shape of the rear floor. Before we do anything else, the seatbelt anchors are clicked into place in the slots on the floor section. These are quite a tight fit and I needed to remove fingerprints with some de-tacked masking tape on the black surface, when done. 

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The rear floor is now screwed to the interior section and a central pin used to lock the 'tunnel' together. 

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The seatbelts are slotted into position as shown, making sure that the Cobra badge is facing upwards on the clasp.

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Flip the model over and located the belt to the pips as shown. I needed to use. small spot of CA to make these stay in position.

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AND.....we now have this!

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Looking forward to Pack 6!

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STAGE 39: INTERIOR DETAILS
Front and Rear Floor Mats and Fire Extinguisher

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With this new pack, Agora is sticking with working on the interior, and there's detail work as well as the various panels. This first set of parts contains the rubber floor mats and fire extinguisher. The floor mats just push into the holes in the floor. One thing I did need to do was to remove a little of the fibre from the holes, as it was stopping the mat pins pushing fully home. A scalpel was used to clear the holes and the mats pushed firmly in, clicking as they locked into position.  

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Remember those seats? Those are now fitted to the interior. Note the 'R' and 'L' on the underside and fit them in the appropriate place as shown on the instructions. Two screws hold each in position. 

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The fire extinguisher is now assembled. The handle is pushed into the lower half as shown here, and then the upper half locks everything into position. A sticker is then carefully applied and the finished extinguisher plugged into place between both seats.

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Looking very, very cool!

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STAGE 40: REAR SEAT SUPPORT

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From here, the interior starts to take on a real life and shape of its own. There's only one part in this pack, and this is screwed into position with four screws. You also have to make sure that the tab in the tunnel area is clicked firmly into position as it was with an earlier interior stage.

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STAGE 41: INTERIOR REAR PLATFORM

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Another pack with just a single part, and this extends the interior even further back. Just three screws hold this in position. 

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STAGE 42: LEFT REAR INTERIOR PANEL,
Interior panel, Decorative Accessory and Rear Seat Release Lever

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I'm actually very pleased that the side panels are now being fitted as it gives some rigidity to the interior. A 'decorative accessory 🤣' and rear seat release lever are screwed into position on the left interior panel. 

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The panel is now screwed into position on the left hand side of the interior. Note that there is a pin locating position on the underside too, which keeps that connection rigid.

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STAGE 43: LEFT REAR UPPER INTERIOR PANEL AND VENTILATION GRILLE

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More work on the left hand side now with the upper left interior panel. The ventilation grille is pushed into position and then screwed from the rear. I needed to remove a little plastic flash from the edges of this, which neatened the whole part up. 

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This panel is now fitted above the previous one with just two screws. This will be made far more rigid very shortly.

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STAGE 44: INTERIOR TRUNK PARTITION PANEL

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This single part is pretty obvious. It's the interior truck partition panel, and is held to the interior by three screws on the underside. It also secures to the upper left panel with a plug pin fit. I found it easier to push those in first and THEN fit the screws. 

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STAGE 45: REAR SEAT FOLDING PANEL AND HINGE

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We now see some very tiny screws here, almost like those in a jeweller's box. First, the hinge is located as shown, and then three of those tiny screws are used to secure it to the rear seat folding panel.......

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STAGE 46: REAR SEAT BACKREST PANEL

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.....then we are onto the next pack of parts! Take the rear seat back, and rear seat back panel, and carefully push them together. 

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Now screw the other edge of the single to the assembly. 

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And, er......that's it for another month! Got to say I'm loving this build!!

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Looking good!

 

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