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James H's GT500 - FINISHED!


James H

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Pack 8

STAGE 56: SHOCK ABSORBER AND LEFT REAR BRAKE

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The shock absorber cylinder and mounting plate need to be fitted together. A small steel pin is supplied for this and this is pushed into the assemblies as shown. The serrated end grips the plastic and holds everything together tightly.

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The assembly fits to the left side of the car on the underside as you can see here, and fastened via a screw on the reverse. You also need to remove the shock absorber sprint plate so you can fasten the piston to the underside. This is then replaced, fitting the piston into the cylinder body. The instructions show the left rear brake pushed into position, but as this will just drop off until the wheel is fitted, I kept this to one side.

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STAGE 57: LEFT REAR WHEEL

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Now, about that wheel! This is assembled in the same way as the previous two, leaving the rubber tyre in hot water for 5 minutes to soften it enough to fit the rim. The brake then slides onto the wheel and signed with the slot. The wheel is then fitted in place with a screw and the Shelby cap used to hide the screw. 

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STAGE 58: SHOCK ABSORBER AND REAR RIGHT BRAKE   &   STAGE 59: RIGHT REAR WHEEL

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These are simply repeats of the previous stages 56 and 57, but for the right side rear wheel.

 

 

STAGE 60: EXHAUST SYSTEM ASSEMBLY

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Before you can do anything with this stage, you need to remove this floor pan section. Care is needed not to mix the screws up as there are three different types here, but two of those types are for the channel, so it's pretty easy to sort. An upwards twist helps remove the part.

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The previous exhaust assembly can now be screwed into position as shown here with the chromed exhausts protruding from the rear. This fastens with 6 screws and you really can't make a mistake here. 

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Next, the resonator pipe halves are screwed to the exhaust system, and the completed assembly then fitted to the chassis, followed by replacing the floor pan section. 

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STAGE 61: STEERING COLUMN AND STEERING WHEEL

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First, the pinion pushes onto the steering column. Both of these parts are metal.

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The microswitch is now added. I used a spot of CA on the underside as the subsequent assembly showed this pop out of position. Easy fix.

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In my case, I had to later repeatedly fit and remove the assembly as it appeared the steering column was a tad overlong. This meant that I couldn't push the pinion down into the chassis far enough without the steering column pushing the wheel away from the housing and microswitch. To fix this, I filed away the bottom of the pinion that wasn't serrated, and also took 1mm off the top of the column where it entered the steering wheel. The whole lot now works great when fitted to the model.

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STAGE 62: TRUNK PANEL

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Nothing to see or do here, so move along!

 

 

STAGE 63: SPARE WHEEL, STEERING WHEEL AND FLOOR ASSEMBLY

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This wheel is assembled as the others and will be the spare that is kept in the boot.

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The steering wheel can now be fitted to your model, although I think this is best done when the interior is bolted to the chassis because there's less chance of damaging it, and also more chance of getting everything aligned properly.

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The interior is now fitted to the chassis...

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...and here you see the cap which pushed into place to hold the pinion down onto the rack.

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STAGE 64: TRUNK PANELS, JACK, AND FIXING THE SPARE WHEEL

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Using the panel we got earlier, the side plates are now fitted to it by clip connections. The assembly is now fitted to the car.

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The spare wheel is now made up with the mechanism to lock it into position. 

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Finally, the wheel is fitted.

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I'll post Pack 9 tomorrow to get myself up to date.

 

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Pack 9

 

STAGE 65: FIRST PARTS OF THE RADIATOR

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This one's quite simple. The grille sits on the radiator and is trapped by he fan bracket which is fastened with a screw from the rear.

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STAGE 66: RADIATOR SHROUD AND FAN BLADE

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Construction of the radiator continues with the front panel (shroud) being fitted to the part I just assembled. Four screws fasten this from the rear. For the time being, the fan is set aside.

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STAGE 67: FRONT OF THE RADIATOR

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First, the radiator cap is screwed to the radiator top...

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...and then the top os sandwiched between the new radiator front and the assembly already built. These just click together tightly and need no screws or glue.

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The next grille is then secured to the front radiator panel.

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STAGE 68: ENGINE PARTS

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The first thing to go here is to curl the photo-etch air cooler grill around the inside lip of the air filter base. There is a red stripe on the mesh and this needs to be outwards and sat in the base. You'll still see a little of this when assembled. This task is quite easy to do and you don't need to curve the mesh beforehand.

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The air filter top is now added and screwed into position.

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The carburettor is now screwed to the underside of the air filter, and the complete assembly then screwed to the cylinder head cover.

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The beautiful, chrome finished valve covers are now screwed into position. These are marked 'L' and 'R' and are notched so they fit the right war around.

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STAGE 69: FRONT HOUSING AND PRESSURE PUMP

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The housing support is screwed to the engine's front housing.

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The pressure pump is now pushed on its support. No glue needed.

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The two assemblies are then screwed together.

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STAGE 70: ALTERNATOR, PULLEYS AND RADIATOR HOSE

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First up is to push the alternator onto its support. Again, this is a friction fit, so no glue needed.

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The radiator hose parts are also just squeezed together.

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A single screw fastens the alternator support to the engine front.

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No glue is needed for fitting the pulleys either. The fit is very good and really won't come off!

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The radiator hose is then pushed into the radiator unit.

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STAGE 71: ENGINE BLOCK, RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND LIGHT SWITCH

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Some heavy metal work again as the gas filter is screwed to the engine right half.

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Over to the car interior for a moment. The light switch is fastened as shown, with a small clip holding it in situ. This appears to hold it very well.

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Assembling the manifolds is very easy. These are just a push fit and each is numbered. The manifold connector is also printed with the number locations and they can only fit in one way. 

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STAGE 72: LEFT ENGINE BLOCK, EXHAUST MANIFOLD, GEAR BOX AND RADIATOR SUPPORT

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Fitting the engine front to the left engine block was a little problematic as the plastic part on the rear of the engine front, wouldn't push full home. I used a small file to open up the slots on both the engine block sides, and that fixed the problem.

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Whoops, note I added the curved gear box part the wrong war round? That was changed after these photos were taken.

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Both manifolds are now clipped into the engine block.

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Another push fit sees the radiator support bracket fitted to the completed radiator unit.

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STAGE 73: ENGINE BLOCK BOTTOM, OIL COOLER AND CONNECTION CABLE

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The large chunk of metal and its assemblies that built up the upper engine, is now slotted into the engine housing and the engine bottom plate screwed into place.

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Filler pipe, pressure probe and connection cable are now added.

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The oil cooler is now assembled and fastened to the radiator unit.

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More next time!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Pack 10

Well, we are definitely creeping close to the finish line after this package, and this one comes in a reasonably large and heavy box due the inclusion of the fenders. As she sits now, this is one imposing model. Agora have left a teaser too with the fenders not being fitted during Pack 10, but presumably waiting for next month until we can see things coming together for the exterior. And with this pack...we have wiring! Not sure what battery this will use though. 

STAGE 74: DISTRIBUTOR, SPARK PLUG WIRE AND OIL PAN

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The ignition coil is built from three parts which just push fit together. No glue needed here at all. The same goes for mounting it to the engine, and it will only fit one way too.

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Plumbing the engine issues quite therapeutic and the suggested sequence of plumbing works well too. The vinyl hose needs to be cut to different lengths before being connected between the distributor and the main body. Everything is nicely colour coded in the instructions, so it's very hard to get wrong. I did use a little spot of CA between the hose/wire and the spark plug connectors as they did come off fairly easy. The oil pan was also fitted, though in hindsight, it would have been easier fitting that before the spark lines. 

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The beast can now be mounted into the chassis. For this, there's only two screws, but as the engine compartment builds up, everything becomes real sturdy. 

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STAGE 75: SIDE PANEL AND FRONT RIGHT SHOCK ABSORBER

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The right hand shock absorber piston is fastened to the car by means of another serrated pin. The radiator is now fastened to the side panel, and the piston body itself now screws to the outside of the right side panel. Onto the latter slides the shock absorber spring and then the whole unit is carefully lowered into position so the piston fits to the piston body. A little tricky, but not too difficult. Two screws hold the side panel securely in place. 

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STAGE 76: ENGINE CENTRAL PANEL, PUMP AND BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR

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This one is dead simple. The brake fluid reservoir is push fitted to the support snd the completed assembly screwed to the right hand engine bay wall. Care is needed not to trap any cabling under this wall, and the side screws mean you'll need to manipulate some of the surrounding parts to be able to get a clear shot. 

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STAGE 77: FRONT LEFT PANEL, SPEAKER AND SUSPENSION

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It's now the turn of the left hand engine bay wall too be fitted. This is done in the same way as the first except the speaker needs to be fitted first and the retainer/support screwed into place to trap it. Care needs to be taken to ensure the wires flow from the recess properly.

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STAGE 78: BATTERY, STRUT BAR, WATER PUMP AND PIPES

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Almost everything in this pack is a push fit. The handle is first attached to the battery with the only screws to be used here. This needs to be a sold fit as the battery lifts out to reveal the actual battery pack for the car's electronics.

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The oil filter can now be built and plumbed in, as well as the strut bar being attached. This makes everything quite rigid.

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STAGE 79: WASHER FLUID RESERVOIR, ELECTRONIC CIRCUIT AND WIRING

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It seems ages ago since we looked at any electronics, but here I get to plug the supplied cables into the circuit board. These are all numbered both on board and cable with only one board socket remaining free (06), which accommodates the speaker we recently fitted.

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The board is now screwed into position as seen and the cables fed through various channels. I started with the cable the furthest away from the channel as I didn't want to end up with a rat's nest of untidy wiring. Cables 01, 02, 03, 04, and 05 are now connected to the various sockets that run from the battery box, steering column, lights, pedal etc. The speaker is also plugged into socket 06 on the circuit board.The windscreen washer fluid bag is also pushed into place next to the oil filter.

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STAGE 80: LEFT FRONT FENDER STAGE 81: CHASSIS FRONT PANEL STAGE 82: RIGHT FRONT FENDER

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Not too much to write about here except both fenders are now screwed to chassis front panel after the hood supports are fitted.

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Until Pack 11, that's it!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Pack 11 - almost there!

By far the LARGEST box to yet arrive from Agora, but hardly surprising when you consider it contains the GT500's main body. This is also a heavy box too as the largest components are metal, such as the body, hood and trunk etc (bonnet and boot, to us Brits!). There's no worry about this arriving in one piece either as the main body is contained inside a secondary box, packed into dense polystyrene. The other packs are sat on top of this, with some of them now being blister packs again, and not just sleeves. Here's how things look when it arrives:

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STAGE 83 : MAIN BODY SECTION STAGE 84: UPPER & LOWER SIDE SCOOPS

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This one is quite simple. Before any work started, I used some protective foam to cover the paint stripes as they can be easily damaged when working. The model was also laid on a bed of bubble wrap for extra insurance. 

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The fender assembly is now fastened to the main body by four screws.

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STAGE 84: UPPER & LOWER SIDE SCOOPS

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Another simple stage now as the air vents/scoop are fastened to the exterior. There's no way you can get these wrong due to the shapes involved and the recesses for the lower scoops. These actually look real nice and add some extra character to the main body.

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STAGE 85: HOOD, FRONT GRILLE, HIGH-BEAM HEADLIGHTS

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To attach the Shelby logo to the front grille, two little tabs need to be bent inwards. These then snag onto the badge locating pins, holding it in place.

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The other tags now need to be bent inwards, fully. The grille can then be fitted to the grille surround, and the tags then bent backwards to lock the grille into its surround. The surround is then screwed to the front Cobra assembly.

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The next thing to fit are the headlights which just push into the grille surround from the front. The screw position needs to be pointing upwards so they are angled correctly. 

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STAGE 86: HOOD HINGES

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The hood hinges are now fitted to the hood. There are three different types of screw used for this, so care needs to be taken to get this right. There's quite a lot of tension in these when built, and it's a good idea not to keep operating these until fitted to the car as the slider won't cleanly operate until then.

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Four screws now secure the hood to the main body. The hood needs to be inserted an an angle and then slid upwards at the rear to locate it. I had to move the hinged slightly to get this into position. I also noticed that the hood wasn't even to the fenders on each side, so the fenders needed to be slackened off and realigned to the hood.

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STAGE 87: CENTER LIGHT BRACKET, HORNS, HOOD PINS, FOG LIGHT LENSES, LED SYSTEM, WIRE HOLDERS

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The centre light bracket and holds are fastened to the front bracket. The hood pins are now pushed into place and the hood closed to ensure they located through the holes in the forward hood. I found the hood would then snag them and pull them out again, so I used a little CA to fasten the pins.

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Now the headlights can be wired up, with wire 07 to the left, and 08 to the right. A cable tidy helps hold the wires in place when installed. 

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Some white glue (PVA) is used to fit the fit lights. I didn't use CA here as it can fog clear plastic. 

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The front is then offered up to the main body and screwed into position, making sure the headlight cables fit neatly through the holes in the front bracket. The cables are then run through the. body channels and held into position with wire clips. I wasn't very confident that those clips wouldn't later come loose so I used a tiny spot of CA to hold them in place.

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The hood pin plates are now pushed into position and the lanyards/Lynch pins attached. 

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STAGE 88: TRUNK LID, LOCK AND SHELBY EMBLEM

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The trunk lock and Shelby emblem are now fitted to the trunk lid.

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STAGE 89: LOWER REAR BODY SECTION, TRUNK HINGES AND BRACKETS

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The lower rear body part is now offered up to the rear of the main body and secured with six screws. 

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Both trunk hinges are fitted to the lid and the trunk led fitted to the main body, using the hinge brackets to hold in position. These are metal, so no chance of them being bent with any force.

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STAGE 90: REAR LIGHTS, LED WIRES, GAS CAP, GAS PIPE, CABLE HOLDERS

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Before I can start the wiring, the gas cap and gas cap base are fastened together using the small hinge and shortest small screws. This is then pushed into position and secured with a screw. The gas pipe holder is then also fastened into position, using screws from the outside rear.

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The right rear light is pushed into position...

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...and the rear right LED strip popped into place. I did find that before I could fit the light holder, that I needed to clip down the LED tails on the soldered joints as they protruded a little too far and stopped the holder fitting snugly.

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With the holder in place, the cable is run in its channel and the cable clips used to hold it down. Again, a spot of CA was used to make sure these didn't eventually come loose when everything is finally assembled.

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Things really are getting close to finish now. Here's where Pack 11 leaves us.

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One more to go. I'm really hoping I see that pack before year end!

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  • 3 months later...

Pack 12

This is it folks....the final work on this behemoth, and the finished result is VERY heavy and impressive. I've had a snag along the way that delayed me posting this. When you manoeuvre your car around, DO NOT put the weight of the model on any of the back wheels. I did that and snapped the wheel fixing point of the rear axle. You live and learn, and it was so frustrating. 

 

STAGE 91: WINDSHIELD & STAGE 92: WINDSHIELD FRAME AND WIPERS

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Real care needs to be taken not to touch the main clear area of the windscreen, for obvious reasons. Thankfully, this just sits neatly in place with zero effort, and the windshield frame locks it into position with a few clicks. 

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STAGE 93: UPPER VENT GRILLE STAGE 94: REAR WINDOW

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The windshield wipers from the previous stage are now screwed into position on the upper vent grille, and the panel slid into place on the body, then screwed into position. 

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STAGE 94: REAR WINDOW & STAGE 95: REAR WINDOW FRAME & RADIO ANTENNA

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You know the drill! Both rear window and frame fit nicely into position with ease.

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STAGE 96: DOOR TRIM AND SILL PLATES

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Those sparse door entry points need prettying up, so these trims and sills are now added. These just push into place with zero fuss on both driver and passenger side.

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STAGE 97: HEADLINER

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Even though you get the liner, you can't fit it yet. Instead, both doors are fitted. Make sure these are nice and tight. They should also face a little resistance when pushed fully closed, giving them a positive close-fit.

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STAGE 98: SUN VISORS & REAR VIEW MIRROR

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The liner is now fitted with the sun shields and rear view mirror. 

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The liner itself now just pushes into place with no problems. 

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The aerial is perhaps the only real puzzling part for me. This should've ideally been a push fit for the last item added, but instead it needs to be screwed into the underside of the body before you can fit it, providing a hazard from this point on as you work on the model. Take care with that aerial!

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STAGE 99: REAR VALANCE, FOG LIGHTS & CONNECTING THE BODY TO THE CHASSIS & 

STAGE 100: REAR BUMPER, FRONT & REAR LICENSE PLATES

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The rear valance is now fitted with fog lights. I also fit the reg plate from stage 100 too. 

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Before the body can be fitted to the chassis, all the wiring is finally connected and batteries inserted into the engine compartment to check that all is ok.  Fitting the body took me quite a bit of time in making sure all lugs and holes were in alignment, and also that all cables were safe from being trapped. That aerial is also most at risk here when you turn the car over.

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You might notice no rear wheels in this picture. That's because I broke the rear axle as mentioned at the start, and I decided it safest to fit the wheels last, prior to turning the car the right way round. The valence is now fitted and the number added. I also screw the front reg plate into position. 

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All done!!!!!!!!

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Conclusion
A lovely project that will doubtless be much loved by any petrol head or Shelby fan. The details are superb and the size of this means it's no shrinking violet. You'll need a nice care to display it, and also a strong shelf! All electronics worked as they should, from the engine sounds, to horn, rear lights and front lights. A year's worth of work is finally at an end and my bench will certainly look different with this now gone from it.

 

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  • James H changed the title to James H's GT500 - FINISHED!
5 hours ago, wyatt said:

Beautiful conclusion to this build James. You've really done justice to this kit. What's next on your list?

wyatt

Cheers!

I'm currently still building the Cobra and T-800, but will be starting Bismarck before too long also. That should keep me busy 😆 I may also add additional paint and weathering to that too.

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  • 1 month later...

Bonjour James H, superbe montage et des belle photos,félicitation👍

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