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Pack 1 - Stage 4. Continuing the hull.


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Stage 4 extends the port side of the hull.

As an aside, do you want an easy way to remember which is port and starboard, and which way the red and green lights go?

Red, port and left all have fewer letters than Green, starboard and right!!

Here are the parts we get.

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Screw the lower hull in place.  Not forgetting a little lubrication to ease the screws.

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Add the upper section.

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Turn it over and add the connecting panel.

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Now you can add the name plate.  I found this was a fairly loose fit.  However, don't be tempted to glue it in place as we will need to remove it later in the assembly.

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That completes pack 1.  Looking forward to pack 2 now!!

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I see that the port side is like  my hachette build one it's like a jigsaw  on the starboard side you do not get that when you get that part.

At least Agora are replacing  some of the parts which are that done in the wrong colours by Hachette like the breakwaters which in my model are grey!!. 

Also others who have this kit when you put the foredeck wooden layer they put PVA glue down first  as the sticky on the decking tends to lift and come away from the edges after a while 

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I was concerned about the gaps on the hill, but they are a lot less noticeable than I expected, so far at least. 
 

PVA is an option for gluing down the deck. I have a couple of other ideas too, which I shall try out before making any recommendations. 
 

it was good of Agora to give me the heads up on the replacements parts so I can give the forum members advanced info. 

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Mark can I ask you a couple of Q as you might know I am building the hachette Titanic version and the parts like breakwaters which should be white  also the steam valves on mine are just a white which Agora are going to replace them in there model of this mighty Ship. Could I just buy the upgrade bits for my verizon which I know is highly unlikely. Should I cancel the  hachette version which I am on issue 12 and go for the Agora verizon which seems to right the wrongs that the hachette verizon. The second thing I wish to ask you how do I become a   Agora member as i am building the AGORA Bismarck which is very good. Hope you have a good weekend Mark Regards Eric

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Hi Eric,

I guess Hachette will also replace the wrongly coloured parts. Of course, the customer service here is first class, but I’ll help regardless of where you order the parts from. 
 

You should get your Agora Elite membership automatically if you’ve ordered the Bismarck. Drop an email to customer services and they will sort it out. 
 

Cheers

Mark

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23 hours ago, Ajacobi said:

I am a little disappointed that the bow and stern don't appear to be lit up but can be drilled out, any thoughts on doing that to yours or keep it stock? also will it even be worth doing that or a waste of time?

I'll be keeping mine as standard.  It may be a bit tricky drilling them out and keeping the holes perfectly in line.  Zamac isn't the easiest of materials to drill.  As to whether it's worth it?  Well, each to their own.  I probably wouldn't drill out the lower port holes, or if I did, perhaps some but not all of them.  Then there is the issue of lighting them, which would be easy as a stand alone light, but very difficult to operate from the remote control.  

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On 6/2/2022 at 10:50 AM, Hilux5972 said:

I’m disappointed that it looks as though the line between the black and red parts are straight so far. It was not straight on the ship. It curved slightly for its entire length. Noticeably so. 

There is a curve between the red and black, but it's quite difficult to see over the short length of hull we have so far.  It will become more apparent as the hull progresses.

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5 hours ago, Mark, The Master Modeller said:

There is a curve between the red and black, but it's quite difficult to see over the short length of hull we have so far.  It will become more apparent as the hull progresses.

That’s a relief to know then. 

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On 7/12/2022 at 1:35 AM, Stephen Watson-Exley said:

Mark is using gorilla wood glue going to be good for gluing down the for deck? I have seen some other modelers using it and am wondering if it will hold the wood to the plastic substrate? 

I haven’t tried it so I can’t say for sure. I did try a PVA wood glue but that peeled off very easily, so I wouldn’t go out and but it specially.   I ended up using a humble glue stick which worked well. Both UHU and a cheap supermarket version both worked well. 

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