Pack 1 - Stage 1. The fore deck.

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Time to start another model, and this one looks like it's going to be a cracking model.

Stage 1 gives us the foredeck.  A plastic deck, with a real wooden veneer covering.  Lots of details to add!  Definitely one to get excited about.

First of all, carefully peel the backing off the wooden veneer and put the deck in place.  Firstly, have a couple of practice runs before you remove the backing.  I found it best to place the veneer against the lip at the back or the deck then gently lay it down while keeping it straight.  Press the deck down firmly, starting in the middle and working out to the edges.  Any bulges should be held down by the deck fittings, but pressing down firmly with the back of a teaspoon should remove any bulges.

Fit the anchor, winches and vents, 1C, 1D, 1F & 1G.  These just push in.

Fit the skylight 1E and the 3 bollards 1H.

Here are all 6 bollards fitted.

Fit the vent 1I, the breakwaters and the hatch.  However, the breakwaters are the wrong colour and will be replaced in stage 13.  You can fit them or leave them off as you prefer, but do NOT glue them in place!!  The hatch does need to be glued in place.

Finally, fit the four steam valves and four bitts.  Again, these are the wrong colour and will be replaced in stage 13, so do NOT glue them in place.  They are a push fit anyway.

This completes the first stage.

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

Please note that the replacement parts are coming in Pack 13, not stage 13. My mistake, sorry!

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

I found that the wooden veneer wasn’t sticking to the foredeck very well, but there’s usually an easy solution to a lot of modelling problems.  In this case, the solution was the humble glue stick!

I tried several different adhesives to find the best one to use.  My first attempt was an unbranded contact adhesive, similar to UHU general purpose glue.  Not only didn’t this stick very well, it dissolved the paint on the plastic.  Failure!!!

The next attempt was painting a coat of PVA glue on the deck.  This was a bit more successful, but it needed clamping to keep the deck flat while the glue dried.  The joint wasn’t very strong and it was quite easy to peel the veneer off the plastic deck even after the glue had a couple of days to dry.  

My next attempt was to use a glue stick, which proved to be very successful.  Simply apply an even coating of glue to the plastic deck, paying attention to the edges and any areas where the veneer isn’t perfectly flat.  Then remove the backing paper and put the deck in place.  As a bonus, the glue stick glue allows a little movement, making it easier to align the deck accurately.  Once in place, press it down firmly with something smooth and hard.  A teaspoon works well.  The veneer should stick down nicely, but you can use a clothes peg or clamp if there are any stubborn areas.  Put the backing paper over the top of the deck first to save the clamp marking the veneer.  Any excess glue round the edges of the deck can be removed with a tissue, but be careful to keep it away from the planked surface as it may stain the wood.  Any excess glue in the holes can be removed with a cocktail stick.  I tried both a UHU brand glue stick and a cheap supermarket brand (WH Smiths) glue stick.  Both worked equally well.

[jmabry]

I had the same problems with the deck. Some of the areas didn’t stick, leaving a bulge. I watched some utube videos, and some of them were painting a coat of white glue on the deck, then removing the backing and pressing the deck down. I bought some white Gorilla Glue, and tried it on the next deck. Not only did it work, but I was also able to move the deck to get it line up correctly before clamping it down. I then used a toothpick with some glue on the end, and spread it under the bulges, and clamped them down. It worked perfectly. 

[Heyward]

I didn't discover this problem with the deck wood not sticking until later, after I'd finished the foredeck.  I noticed the very front had a bow in the middle and the front corners peeling up slightly.  Not sure what to do now.  I've clamped it down overnight hoping this causes the glue on the wood to finally set.  If this doesn't work, what do you suggest?  Only the first one and half inches are slightly peeling.  Think it possible to carefully lift and slide some  glue stick glue in it with a wooden paddle made from a popsicle stick (after I sand it very thin) or with flat toothpicks?

Meanwhile, I'm on the first engine and pistons.  I'm struggling with getting those pistons to lay in place while attaching the other side.  I'm thinking about removing the crankshaft and re-affixing it after I mate the two halves.  I've also noticed the two halves don't want to mate, as in they didn't index the same.  I've examined them and they look correct individually using the index pin.  But when I bring them together, they are definitely not indexed the same.  

Thanks for any advice.

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

On 1/4/2023 at 8:03 AM, Heyward said:

I didn't discover this problem with the deck wood not sticking until later, after I'd finished the foredeck.  I noticed the very front had a bow in the middle and the front corners peeling up slightly.  Not sure what to do now.  I've clamped it down overnight hoping this causes the glue on the wood to finally set.  If this doesn't work, what do you suggest?  Only the first one and half inches are slightly peeling.  Think it possible to carefully lift and slide some  glue stick glue in it with a wooden paddle made from a popsicle stick (after I sand it very thin) or with flat toothpicks?

Meanwhile, I'm on the first engine and pistons.  I'm struggling with getting those pistons to lay in place while attaching the other side.  I'm thinking about removing the crankshaft and re-affixing it after I mate the two halves.  I've also noticed the two halves don't want to mate, as in they didn't index the same.  I've examined them and they look correct individually using the index pin.  But when I bring them together, they are definitely not indexed the same.  

Thanks for any advice.

If it’s only a small area you could try lifting it and working some glue from a glue stick under it.  For the areas close to the edge, just apply some superglue and press it down.  
 

As an alternative for the bulged area, you could try lifting the deck, and applying a little superglue under the affected area using a hypodermic syringe. You can get syringes with blunt needles from Amazon and probably other places too.  I haven’t tried this, but I’m fairly confident that it would work.  You’ll only need a drop or two of superglue under the deck.  Superglue works well for small areas.

I’ll get back to you about the engine. 
 

Cheers 

Mark

[Mark, The Master Modeller]

On 1/4/2023 at 8:03 AM, Heyward said:

Meanwhile, I'm on the first engine and pistons.  I'm struggling with getting those pistons to lay in place while attaching the other side.  I'm thinking about removing the crankshaft and re-affixing it after I mate the two halves.  I've also noticed the two halves don't want to mate, as in they didn't index the same.  I've examined them and they look correct individually using the index pin.  But when I bring them together, they are definitely not indexed the same.  

Thanks for any advice.

It may make it easier to fit the crank shaft after bringing the cylinder halves together.  Nothing is glued, so you can pull it apart and try again if it doesn’t work.  

I did find that the tops of the cylinders didn’t join very well, but the are pulled together later when the cylinder top covers are added later.

Post a photo if you’re still having problems as that can make it easier for me to see the problem.
 

 

[Cin0s3]

Thinking about starting this one since I just finished the Bismark!