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James H's Terminator T-800 - Pack 10


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I'll stick my flag in the ground here and create the first member build diary for the 1:2 Terminator T-800!

Whilst I've never really been a Sci-Fi fan, some stuff does grab me.....such as Blake's 7, Space 1999, Terminator, Star Wars etc., so pretty much a lot of the classic Sci-Fi. Agora's new T-800 hits the sweet spot for me, and in a massive half-scale too! This has been previously released by Hachette in other sales territories, and this release incorporates the fix to the original floppy fingers problem that plagued the original release. The first pack is a sizeable box too, so time to dive in and start some building! This will be entirely out-of-box, with no mods etc, although there are some out there if you do a little searching.

PACK 1

Stage 1: Components for head and eyes
Just to tempt us straight away, it's common for these models to supply something very recognisable. In this case, it's the upper face in all it's metal, metallic glory. 

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The first step is to push the eye pupils/lenses into the chromed eye orbits. These are a nice, snug fit.

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Next, taking extreme care with the wires, the LEDs are now pushed fully into the orbits.

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These completed eyes can now be installed to the inner face plate. Orientation of these is very important as they will later be connected to a motor so the eyes will move from side to side. The outer pegs on these must go upwards when fitted. Once in position, the eyes are then held captive by a brace which is screwed into position.

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Creepy!

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Stage 2: Components for the head and right arm
Hot on the heels of the upper face, I now build the upper jaw.

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The face panel I just built is secured to the upper jaw as shown here. The two parts only fit together in one way. 

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Injection moulded plastic parts are supplied for the upper teeth, and these are installed as 5 separate parts, secured in place by a spot of CA gel as this gives more time to work with the parts and get them in absolutely the right position. 

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Some heavy metal work now as the upper arm begins construction. These parts form the swivel attachment at the shoulder, and align when these indents are together. Two screws hold everything securely.

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Stage 3: Components for the right arm and right arm
The arm components in here form a piston which operates as the tricep. This is the main body of the piston, but as yet without the plunger. A screw holds all three components securely.

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You now need to fit 3x AAA batteries to the box. Once you've done that, plug it into the small LED testing board, and then plug each eye into that board, in turn. Each should light very brightly. 

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Spreading the workload around a little, the first finger is now built, using the updated parts which stop the fingers from being floppy. In a change to the instructions, I find it easier to insert the sleeve between the joints, and then the pin. This was, the sleeve doesn't bunch up underneath the joint, and good the full depth. The small cap is then plugged into the pin, to finish it off.

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Stage 4: New components for the upper right arm
We get a good stab at the upper arm with this stage, and start to see some things come together. 

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First, the bicep piston is built, and the plunger, complete with rubber seal, is inserted.

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The plunger is also built and inserted for the tricep piston we built earlier.

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The articulated should joint is now built. First, the previous part is now fitted with plastic grips.

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Both tricep and bicep pistons are now fitted to the main bone of the arm, and the shoulder socket pushed into place. When everything is in situ, the large metal arm part from Stage 2, is then used to lock everything together via the piston screws.

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Stage 5: Components for the lower jaw and neck
Back to the head now, with this lower head plate and neck socket. 

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The neck socket is first screwed together and sat into the hole in the lower head, once the black plastic ring is first seated.

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A small cap now protects the top of the socket and a bracket screws into position to lock everything.

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Stage 6: Teeth of lower jaw, and the bridge of nose
As with the upper jaw, the lower jaw now receives some detail treatment. All parts plug snugly into the jaw and are fixes with a spot of CA gel.

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The nose bridge is also fitted after a little CA gel is put into the two locating holes in the face.

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Stage 7: Components for upper arm and head motor

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A little more attention is now paid to the should area of the T-800, with this ratchet joint. The ratchet place is first glued into the shoulder part, and the unit GLUED into the previous assembly, using more CA gel. 

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More upper arm parts screwed together . Once done, this is put to one side until we get another pack.

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One last thing we need to do on this stage is to put the two plastic parts together that relate to the head motor.

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Stage 8: Components for right thumb and right palm
Time to get handy again as we look at the right palm and some finger parts. The next finger fits together exactly as the previous, plus both are now finally fitted to the palm.

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Stage 9: Components for right-hand side of head
This pack contains just two parts and a pack os screws. The right hand side of the head has its mechanical plate fitted and secured with two screws. That's it for this!

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Stage 10: Inner eye sockets and right middle finger
Back to the head again. The eye sockets are now fitted within the upper metal face panel. I didn't find these needed any glue, and the instructions only say use it if needed anyway. 

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Oh, and another finger is built and fitted!

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That's it until I receive Pack 2 🤪

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  • 2 weeks later...

Pack 2 hit the doorstep on Friday.....before the postman scurried off in case he caught the Black Death from me, so I thought I'd make an immediate start on and supplement the skeletal parts I'd built from the previous pack.

PACK 2

Another sizeable box too with plenty of parts to play with. Let's crack on!

Stage 11: Assembling neck and jaw joints

Well, we've started the head, so we may as well get some neck done. This pack contains half of the neck, the neck joint and some bushes/screws.

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The first thing to do is to connect the two halves of the neck knuckle joint. Three screws does this job nicely. I used a thin screwdriver because of diameter of holes.

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The black plastic head motor joint that was made in Stage 7 can now be fitted to the lower jaw. This is just squeezed in a little and aligned with the pin holes in the lower jaw. Once fitted, the jaw is then connected to the lower head section and the two bushes inserted into the connecting holes, followed by two fixing screws. The jaw will move and shouldn't be too tight.

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Stage 12: Assembling the right forearm

This simple pack builds up into the lower arm...

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First thing I needed to do was to use superglue to connect the muscle springs to one of the main forearm parts. I used CA gel for this as it gives a few seconds to get it exactly right.

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The springs and the connector are then screwed to the main forearm 'bone', and the cap attached.

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Stage 13: Assembling the neck and right finger component

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Pretty obvious that this pack's main focus is the neck, and now we can complete it. The knuckle I previously made is screwed to the neck half that was supplied with that pack, and the lower head/jaw assembly sat into position. The opposite neck half is now laid over this and the final screws attached for the knuckle and head. To hide those screws, small plates are pushed into position over them, making the joint invisible.

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I also assembled the half a finger supplies, exactly as I did in Pack 1. This will be shown next.

 

 

Stage 14: Adding to the right lower arm, and assembling fourth right finger

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Three piston tubes are supplied here. these are slowed into the end of the cap and the piston tubes attached (shorter one in middle). A screw then holds everything together, whilst allowing the piston tubes to move freely.

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The previous finger is now completed and fitted to the hand, as shown. In my case, all finger joints seem to be nice and tight, and again, I fit the plastic sleeve BEFORE adding the pin, as it stops the sleeve bunching up and not inserting fully.

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Stage 15: Assembling part of the left head and the fifth finger of right hand

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A whole new finger is supplied here and this is first built and fitted to the hand. All fingers are now present and correct! I resisted the temptation to form it into a well-known gesture! 🤣

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The head side panel is also built as per the previous one.

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Stage 16: Begin the assembly of the first lower arm

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The lower arm now really starts to take form. The black plastic rotator ring that controls articulation, is push fitted to the arm joint built in Stage 7. This is then aligned with the large cuff in this pack, and the lower arm unit with piston tubs, slotted into position and screwed together.

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The piston plungers now have their rubber sealing cups added, and these are inserted into the lower arm piston tubes.

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Stage 17: Fitting sides of the head to the top of the head

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Both completed head side panels are now screwed to the top skull piece from inside, and the unit put to one side until later.

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The three ball joints are now screwed to the underside of the palm.

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Stage 18: Assembling the eye motor support

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Back to the head again now as the plastic bar from Stage 1 is now sat onto the pins on both eyes, locking them into position. To secure this bar in place, a plastic block is screwed into position above it. The eyes will now move freely, and together.

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The eye motor is now secured in position. Everything was assembled as supplied as it all seemed to be aligned.

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The upper face/eye unit is now screwed to the lower head. These screws are neatly hidden in the underside palette. Starting to look a little eery now. 😎

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Stage 19: Assembling the head motor

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Of course, the head needs another motor to operate the jaw, and first the two-part gearbox is assembled, and the motor secured to the motor housing. 

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The gearbox is now fitted to the motor housing.

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Stage 20: Assembling and mounting the head motor support

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After the motor support is securely fixed in place, the motor is fitted to it and the 'U'-shaped casing added. This holds the motor to the mounting. Make sure that you don't nip/damage any cables at this juncture, as there's a few wires waving about. (and no....I didn't damage any myself! 🤣)

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The head is temporarily made to look a little angular as the two brackets are then screwed into position. 

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That's it until the next pack. What a great build!

 

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  • 1 month later...

Stage 21: Assemble right shoulder and connect up skull

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Nice and simple. The ratchet discs are glued into the shoulder joint. CA is used for quite a few bits in this latest pack.

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Some little covers are now glued into place to hide the jaw screws. I used white glue for these in case I need to pop them off afterwards and adjust the tension of the screws.

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These little pillars are superglued into the top of the head. I can only think they are to stick to magnets on the later panel. These fit perfectly. The top of the head is then screwed into place, being careful not to trap the wires.

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Stage 22: Connect the jaw, assemble the head

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These are a little fiddly to make as there are tiny pins that are needed for the pivot. Once made, they are glued into position on the jaw, but left unglued at the skull so they can move when the jaw opens/closes.

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And now for the face! This just pushes into position.

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Stage 23: Assemble the right shoulder joint

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Simply put....the shoulder joint. The instructions warn about orientation of parts, but they can be turned afterwards anyway. This is most important when it comes to fitting the later sections.

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Stage 24: Connect right hand to right arm

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I've looked forward to this....fitting the arm together!The knuckle is built, then screwed to the hand this then plugs into the larger lower arm piston, and then the other pistons are plugged into the hand. The springs are threaded through the holes in the hand and then connected to the lower finger area with a cap/plug that's glued in place with CA.

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Stage 25: Assemble right shoulder

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The shoulder can now come together. The orientation of the various orbital components is vital. Just follow the instructions to get it right! The joint is then closed up with the large captive spring.

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Some detail is then glued onto the joint. I removed the chrome plating from any plastic that needs to be glued to the metal.

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Stage 26: Connect right arm to elbow joint

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This part now needs to be unscrewed from the lower arm so that the upper arm can be fitted. Ratchet discs are then glued into position.

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The upper arm is connected to the lower arm with the forward piston first. This has a washer fitted to either side and is held captive by refitting the plate we just removed.

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Now the rear piston can be connected once the small metal sleeve is slotted into place. A screw holds it secure.

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The elbow pin is then inserted and tightened from the other side with a he'd-heqd screw. This can be locked and unlocked to position the arm.

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Stage 27: Assembling left and right shoulders

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The right shoulder socket is assembled and glued onto the joint. More superglue at work here!

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Stage 28: Continuing assembly of left and right shoulders

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Now for something meaty. The joint now has a neoprene sleeve fitted, followed by the shoulder plate and pin/cap assembly. This needs to be done carefully as the pin is plastic and is fragile until inserted. No.....I didn't damage mine!

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More of the same for this, as per the other shoulder. There is some repetition in these stages as we are working on areas on both arms simultaneously.

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Stage 29: Left shoulder build continues

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Stage 30: extend the left shoulder

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I'm presuming we start the other arm and continue with the shoulder in the next pack. I can't wait to start bolting sections together!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Pack 4

Stage 31: Fit left shoulder accessories and add right shoulder joint

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We have a little repetition here with the previous pack as we now add the left shoulder blade to the previous shoulder joint construction. Again, I took real care with this as the pin which pass though the parts and the neoprene sleeve, is plastic. 

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Stage 32: Complete a hinge joint on the right shoulder

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The hinge joint is now built and added to the RIGHT shoulder joint.....not the one you just fitted the shoulder blade too. It's important you get that right. I didn't first time, but realised my mistake and corrected it. The arm can now be fitted to this joint. The Allen/hex key is used to lock the position and can later be slackened off for final positioning. 

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Stage 33: Left shoulder details

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The thoracic vertebra is put to one side for a future stage, and the left shoulder hinge joint built up and fitted. A slot within the parts makes sure this will only secure in one position.

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Stage 34: The first vertebrae

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Now, the thoracic vertebrae from previous stage can be fitted to the vertebrae frame using the supplied nuts and bolts. The socket can also be fitted too, using more nuts and bolts.

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Stage 35: Working on the thoracic vertebrae

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This stage supplies the other socket for the previous frame we just worked on. After fitting this, the rubber caps are inserted within the sockets. These are identified as L and R for identification. These really do need to be properly placed. The caps will stop the later parts from scuffing inside the sockets.

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Stage 36: Building the next thoracic vertebrae

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I now built up pretty much the same as we've just seen, by fitting these parts to the next thoracic frame. The caps for these sockets aren't specific to which socket they fit into. 

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Stage 37: Components for the thoracic cage joint and vertebrae

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Whoops, I lost my parts shot, but never mind! The thoracic cage joint is built by pushing two dome head parts into position and securing with a single screw. The finish is a little slack when fully tightened, but I'm pretty sure that's how it's meant to be. The remaining socket is added t the thoracic frame and the cap pushed into place.

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Stage 38: Components for the thoracic cage joint and vertebrae

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Ok, we know the drill with this assembly. Once this is built, the vertebrae shaft is screwed into place on the frame as shown.

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Stage 39: Connecting the right and left shoulders

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We really start to see some heavy metal coming together with this simple stage. Once the ratchets are glued into the cage shoulder connector, the right arm/shoulder combo can now be fitted to it, followed by the left shoulder.

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Stage 40: Creating the thoracic cage

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Another seemingly unassuming pack, but will really start to bring the T-800 together! The two shafts are screwed into the same frame as before, followed by the thoracic cage base.

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The arm unit is then slotted into place over the central cage shaft, and the thoracic connectors just sat int place within the sockets.

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The head is now installed into the assembly.

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...and the front part of the thoracic cage is fitted. It's very important that this is screwed up real tight so that everything is help secure, including that ugly mush head!!

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Sorry for the bench top images in some photos. My workshop is a mess at the moment with a 1:64 HMS Victory prototype, and having just got back from my holidays, I wanted to plough straight into this build.

 

More next month!

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  • 1 month later...

I'm going to leave this image here as a placeholder. It shows the latest pack 5 completed, concentrating on lower spine and pelvis.

My camera memory card has gone AWOL for this build (Shelby not yet done, so not affected), but if it turns up, I'll add the images and text here.

I can tell you that this built up beautifully too and Terminator is getting very heavy at this point! 🤪

Can't wait to start building the legs.

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Are we really half way through this build already?

After last months disappearance of the camera memory card, I had to get a new one, so this build starts again from here with only the actual pelvis construction unaccounted for. 

Pack 6

 

STAGE 51: FITTING DETAILS TO THE PELVIS

 

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Hardly anything to do in this stage as all we are doing is plugging the front side of the pelvis into position and fitting a joint connector to the hip. The latter is fixed with some Loctite CA.. We do have a swivel part for the next stages though, so onwards...

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STAGE 52: ASSEMBLING A MUSCLE AND FITTING ANOTHER PELVIC PLATE .

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The first task here is to start to build one of the leg muscles. The interior piston sleeve pushes into the main body of the muscle and CA is used to glue the end cap into position as seen here.

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The swivel part we got in the previous pack can now be fitted, again with CA, to the main muscle/piston body.

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The literal arse back end of the pelvis is now plugged into position. 😃

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STAGE 53: FITTING MORE PARTS TO THE TORSO AND PELVIS 

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The abdominal muscle now slides into the upper muscle piston and the ball socket neatly plugs into the pelvis. This is actually a little loose and I know there's a fix for that somewhere. For the moment though, it's ok as this is still very accessible. The other hip connector is now glued into position on the opposite side to the original.

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STAGE 54: ASSEMBLING A MUSCLE AND ATTACHING THE SIDE MUSCLES

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The opposite abdominal muscle piston is now fitted as per the previous. Again, I'll revisit this when I can modify to reduce the slackness. The ball joints easily pop out with a little effort, so I'm not worried about this. There are other parts here which will be fitted in the next stages.

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STAGE 55: FITTING A JOINT MECHANISM TO THE RIGHT THIGH

Unlike the other stages with their plastic moulded boxes, this part is packed into a sleeve and then popped into a large card box. All that is contains is this part and a pack of 2mm nuts.

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The hip part of the upper right thigh is now assembled by a simple push fit.

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The instructions call for these 2mm nuts to be made captive by using some CA first but I found the nuts generally too tight to get into position properly. To fit this, I inserted a 2mm screw into each nut and then tapped the top of the screw to drive them down into the holes. You definitely won't need superglue here! 🤣

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The hip is then pushed into position on the leg.

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STAGE 56: ASSEMBLING THE RIGHT HIP JOINT

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In a random act of electronic haze, my 3 assembly photos have disappeared from both my card and Mac. Anyway, this is a no-brainer. This pack allows us to fit the right thigh to the Terminator. The open plastic cap bitts within the top of the thing, followed by the ball socket which locks into the pelvis. The closed plastic cap then sits atop this and tiger this is followed by the metal dome cap and then the last cap (shown at top). The latter is secured with four 2mm screws and it needs to be tight. The leg is still sloppy at this stage, but that's ok....

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STAGE 57: FINISHING THE RIGHT HIP JOINT AND ASSEMBLING A LEG PART

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In order to be able to adjust the position of those thunderous thighs, but so keep the model stable, another cap is now added to the hip area. This is then screwed into place with a hex screw. You will slacken this to position the leg before tightening to lock in place. For the moment, I've just left it in this position.

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That leg needs more muscles, and here is the inner muscle being built.

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STAGE 58: FITTING PARTS TO THE RIGHT THIGH

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Not too much in this pack but it's got what it takes. This simply screws onto the right thigh and helps to fix the inner small muscle in position.

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STAGE 59: A MUSCLE FOR THE RIGHT THIGH

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The leg joint (presumably the knee?) is first assembled by gluing the ratchet in position. This is then set aside until a later date.

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The leg muscle piston is now built, with a screw holding the rubber grommet in place.

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The front leg muscle is now fitted...

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STAGE 60: MORE MUSCLES FOR THE RIGHT LEG

Another joint piece. No idea what for yet (ankle?), but this is also glued together and set aside. Another muscle piston is now assembled and the main muscles connected to the right thigh. Sure looks powerful! 

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Here's the work so far. This is a BIG and HEAVY model!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Pack 7

Pack 7 is finally done, and the T-800 is definitely growing in stature, even if he still doesn't have a leg to stand on. 😆 

I am a little wary of now just picking it up via the chest cage, so grab by the pelvis now too. I don't want to put too much strain in one area.

STAGE 61: BUILDING THE KNEE JOINT 

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By now, you can see that any pivoting joint has these black ratchet discs than CA into the main part. No difference here. With the knee, a piston interior is also fitted into place.

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STAGE 62: FITTING THE KNEE CAP AND KNEE JOINT

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Another ratchet disc is installed, and along with the knee cap that's assembled with CA, both assemblies now fit to the one in the previous stage.

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The knee is now fitted to the leg. A hex key is used to tighten the joint. This can later be loosened so the model can be specifically posed.

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STAGE 63: STARTING WORK ON THE LOWER RIGHT LEG 

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Work now begins on the lower leg as this is slid onto the main leg part and CA'd into position. The groove means it will only fit in one position.

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The upper leg joint is now fitted.

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STAGE 64: ADDING ANOTHER PART TO THE LOWER RIGHT LEG 

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Even though the shin is supplied here, you'll need to wait until the next stage to use it. For the moment, a lower leg piston is fitted to the to top of the lower leg, via a screw and bush that allows the piston to move.

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STAGE 65: ADDING ANOTHER PART TO THE LOWER RIGHT LEG 

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Another piston is fitted in the same way as the previous. 

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The lower leg outer casing is now fitted. This also has a keyed system that stops it being incorrectly placed. 

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The shin is now fitted. A few spots of CA are needed at the top and bottom, and once in position, a screw fastens it to the stationary piston.

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STAGE 66: ADDING ANOTHER PART TO THE LOWER RIGHT LEG

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Onto another piston fits two end caps. These can only fit specifically to the correct ends, and they are simply a push fit.

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Another screw and bush fitting are used to fit to the lower leg assembly.

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Small details are fitted using a small drop or two of CA.

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A single screw and spring washer is fitted, connecting the lower right leg to the T-800. This can be posed in any position, but I left it neutral. I don't know how easy it will be to loosen that screw when complete.

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STAGE 67: ADDING ANOTHER PART TO THE LOWER RIGHT LEG 

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And now the right foot is started. The three ball joints are snipped from their sprue and fitted to the foot part using screws. 

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Two more screws are used to fit the lower foot part to this...

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STAGE 68: FITTING THE ANKLE JOINT TO THE RIGHT LEG 

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All three pistons are removed from their sprue and the two shorter ones fitted with the rubber end caps with a black, flanged screw. The knuckle joint is also assembled and pushed into the lower leg.

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I do have to say these pistons are way too sloppy. There's zero traction with the piston bodies and they wobble around like mad. I'll think of something to correct this...maybe a plasticard tube wrap for the shorter pistons. As the longer one has no rubber cap, that can't be changed, but it shouldn't matter with the other two being more sturdy 

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The foot is now pushed into position. 

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STAGE 69: ADDING A HEEL DETAIL AND ASSEMBLING FOOT PARTS

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Every foot needs a heel, and this is now fitted, with a single screw locking things into position. 

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Now it's the turn of the toes. Some of these parts are angled, but if you follow the manual, you'll see the toe parts have an indent on one side with a part number on them. I used these ass reference to make sure I got the toes correctly positioned. The grub screw also has a little thread lock to stop it coming part later.

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The toe tip and other toe part are fitted using a plastic bush insert and ridged pin to lock into position.

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STAGE 70: ASSEMBLE TWO MORE ELEMENTS OF THE RIGHT FOOT

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More toes here, built exactly as before.

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Pack 8 will be with me shortly, so more soon. 😁

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

PACK 8

STAGE 71: ASSEMBLING FOOT PARTS AND ATTACHING THEM TO THE RIGHT LEG

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This pack is a continuation of the right foot, and also sees it complete. It really is very important that the photos are studied and the orientation and numbers of the parts. There are 2 rods per toe and some of these have a slight kink in them to accommodate the lie of the toes as they sit on the foot. These are assembled as before, and also using some thread lock on the grub screws. Care is also needed in orientation in fixing these to the feet too.

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STAGE 72: THE FIRST PARTS FOR THE LEFT ARM

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We are onto the bicep for the left upper arm. This is simply a piston body which connects to the shoulder joint and will eventually terminate at the elbow. 

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STAGE 73: FIT COMPONENTS FOR THE LEFT SHOULDER AND ARM

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First, the shoulder joint is assembled. 

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The the piston shafts are built. These shouldn't be tightened too much as they'll not fit into the piston bodies, otherwise.

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STAGE 74: TRICEP MUSCLE OF THE LEFT ARM

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...and now the tricep, built exactly the same as the previous bicep.

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STAGE 75: FURTHER PARTS FOR THE LEFT UPPER ARM

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This is probably the easiest and shortest stage of this pack, taking a whole 10 seconds to build! The socket liner is simply pushed into the left upper arm!

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STAGE 76: FURTHER COMPONENTS FOR THE LEFT UPPER ARM

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Again, another liner is pushed into the socket on this left arm part, and then the shoulder joint is added.

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Biceps and triceps now laid in place over the assembly.

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Both left upper arm parts re now sandwiched together, and screws used to secure the muscles. I found I needed to use a rubber tip hammer to tap the main arm parts together at the shoulder joint, but they did fit nicely after that.

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STAGE 77: BUILD THE FIRST FINGER OF THE LEFT HAND

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Not too much to do here. The left arm joint is saved over for a subsequent stage, but another finger is assembled as per the ones for the right hand side hand. These joints pivot nicely and are tight as they may need to hold a plasma rifle when the model is complete.

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STAGE 78: COMPONENTS FOR LEFT HAND AND ARM JOINT

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Our finger is now attached to the left hand section.

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CA is used to glue the ratchet discs into the shoulder joint. This is then CA'd to the left upper arm.

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A piston is now fitted to the elbow joint.

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STAGE 79: PARTS LEFT SECOND (MIDDLE) FINGER AND ARM

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Another finger to build and fit to the hand! One tip...I find it's easier to slide the neoprene tube into the joint from behind, and THEN push the main metal pin through it to expand the neoprene whilst in situ. CA is used to glue a plastic cap to the opposite side.

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The elbow joint is now completed and fitted to the left upper arm, completing that assembly.

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STAGE 80: COMPONENTS FOR THE FOREARM AND LEFT HAND

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Work on the left forearm begins by CA'ing the tendon springs into position on the forearm plate...

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...which is then screwed to the forearm shaft and the joint added to the top. 

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Connectors are supplied to fit the previous finger onto the hand.

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Until pack 9, that's it!

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Pack 9

Here we are on the 75% mark on this build, and you really need space to store this when this pack is complete. The aim of this pack is to construct the complete left arm, hand, and and also a good chunk of the lower left leg. There is an amount of repetition here to the right arm, hand and leg, so as this build will primarily be for a magazine, I've done this pack as an abridged build. 

STAGE 81: COMPONENTS FOR THE FOREARM AND THIRD FINGER OF THE LEFT HAND

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The finger for this is assembled in the same way as the others, and still adding the neoprene tube to the joint BEFORE inserting the pin. It really is the only way to work this. Finger joints are all nice and stiff, with no floppiness. The forearm shafts are also assembled to the arm as they were on the right hand side. 

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STAGE 82: COMPONENTS FOR UPPER LEFT ARM, FOREARM AND LEFT HAND

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Fittings are supplied to connect the finger I previously built, to the left hand. We also have another forearm shaft and the cover. This allows me to fit this assembly to the upper arm that was built in the last pack. 

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STAGE 83 & 84: ASSEMBLE THE LEFT FOREFINGER AND THUMB

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These two stages include the parts for building the thumb and last finger, and these are fitted to the hand. Ball joints for mounting the hand to the forearm, are also now installed.

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STAGE 85: EXTEND THE LOWER LEFT ARM, AND CONNECT IT TO THE HAND

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To connect the hand to the forearm, pistons are needed for the forearm shafts. These will engage the ball joints on the back of the hand. These are now assembled and fitted as before, and the spring/tendon connectors are added to the hand. Those springs are then connected as per the opposite hand. Arm complete!

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STAGE 86: ASSEMBLE THE SHOULDER, AFFIX THE LEFT ARM TO THE BODY

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A hip joint is included here, but that is reserved for the next stage. Fitting the arm to the body is very simple. The arm slots into position and a ratchet disc is glued into the shoulder joint connector. An Allen key is used to tighten everything up, and this is then used to slacken joints off later to pose the T-800. For now, I'll keep the pose fairly neutral. 

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STAGE 87: FITTING A JOINT MECHANISM TO THE LEFT THIGH 

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In this stage, the hip joint is assembled and glued to the left thigh. That's it for this stage!

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STAGE 88: ASSEMBLING THE LEFT HIP JOINT

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As with the right hip, the inner joint case is slipped into the hip, followed by the ball joint. On top of that sits the outer plastic joint case. The thigh is sat up to the T-800 so the ball joint engages with the hip. This is then screwed into position. The outer cap is then screwed into place with four screws. At this stage the hip will STILL be loose. This is normal.

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STAGE 89: FINISHING THE LEFT HIP JOINT AND ASSEMBLING A LEG PART

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The muscle piston simply pushes together. Th ship outer cap can now be pushed into position and an Allen key used to tighten the joint. Again, this can be slackened later to pose the limb.

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STAGE 90: FITTING PARTS TO THE LEFT THIGH

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As it stands the thigh has no fascia, so this part supplies that. Three screws are used to fit it, screwed from the inside leg so they aren't seen.

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The piston is now fitted into position. 

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He's certainly looking VERY impressive!

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More next time 🙂 

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Well, we are now onto Pack 10.

At this stage, the model is extremely heavy and not so easy to manoeuvre for photographing! I'm also more wary of just lifting this thing by the chest cage and now grip by the pelvis too so I don't put any unnecessary strain on the model. Everything seen in this pack is just a reproduction of building the previous lower leg and foot, so these pics just show the key assemblies.

STAGE 91: ASSEMBLE A MUSCLE FOR THE LEFT THIGH

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Muscle piston! All glued parts use CA gel. If there was a lot of chrome plate, I first rubbed each joint with some fine abrasive paper to provide a better key for the glue.

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STAGE 92: KNEE, MUSCLE, AND FOOT: MAKE PROGRESS ON THE LEFT LEG

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These are the three assemblies built for this stage; knuckle joints for the foot connection, muscle piston, and a knee joint with a ratchet wheel glued into position.

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It really isn't easy flipping the T-800 over, but it needed doing! The thigh muscles are now screwed into position.

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STAGE 93: BUILD OUT THE FOOT, AND CONSTRUCT ANOTHER MUSCLE

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A nice, simple one. Another muscle piston, and screwing the foot section to the previously build foot assembly.

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STAGE 94: AFFIX THE LEFT THIGH MUSCLE WITH NEWLY-CONSTRUCTED TENDONS

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The other muscle piston is now fitted to the thigh, then connected to the other muscle and screwed through the thigh frame.

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The ankle ball joint is now fitted to the foot underside.

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STAGE 95: ASSEMBLE AND AFFIX A KNEE JOINT

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If only a knee replacement was so simple! The knee joint is fitted with the ratchet discs and muscle piston.

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This is then dropped into position and the knee end caps pushed into position and tightened with a hex screw. This can be adjusted to pose the T-800 when complete.

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...and a little more work on the foot with the piston connectors and ankle joint.

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STAGE 96: ADD THE LEFT KNEE CAP AND ASSEMBLE A TOE

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The two kneecap parts are glued together and then the part glued to the leg.

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And the construction of the toes also begins.

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STAGE 97: BUILD PART OF THE LOWER LEG, AND A SECOND TOE

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The lower led is now started, and another toe built.

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STAGE 98: CONSTRUCT THE THIRD TOE, AND EXPAND THE LOWER LEG ASSEMBLY

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More work on the lower leg with the attachment of muscle pistons, and another toe is born.

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STAGE 99: BUILD A FOURTH FOOT PART AND ASSEMBLE THE LOWER LEFT LEG

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The outer shin is now attached to the lower led....and another toe in the series is built.

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STAGE 100: ASSEMBLE THE LEFT FOOT AND ATTACH THE LOWER LEFT LEG

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After building the last toe, then can all be fitted to the foot. It's vital to check the toe orientation and position from the instructions or it'll just look weird. I know as I did it upside down the first time. First, the lower toe joints are secured to the lowest point on the front of the foot, then the upper rods fasten to the connection above this.

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The lower let is now fastened to the T-800 with a single screw. As there is a ratchet disc on this, it can also be posed at the end.

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Until Pack 11....that's it. 😃

 

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  • James H changed the title to James H's Terminator T-800 - Pack 10

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