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Mark's Fire Truck


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I decided to have a go at this one.  It's a bit different and appeals to me.  It's 1/24 scale, but still a big model!!

 

Pack 1, stage 1!

Stage 1 gives us a left rear wheel, hose and name plate.

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The tyres need warming in boiling water (mind your fingers!) to soften them up.  Then they fit in the wheels easily.

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A drop of super glue holds them together nicely.

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Now on to the fire hose.  The instructions show a reasonable way to glue the fittings onto the hose, but I've got a better way.

Firstly, rub some PVA wood glue into the end of the hose.  Then push it over the handle of a small paint brush.  Twist it occasionally to stop it sticking to the brush as the glue dries.  

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Once it's dry, remove the brush to leave the hose with a circular shape.  Trim it carefully with a scalpel if necessary.

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Now the nozzle can be easily superglued in place very neatly.

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The same trick works with the other end, but the diameter of the hose connectors is a little larger and I had to make a small cut to allow the hose to expand a tad.

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Stage 2 gives us a rear panel and a cab door.

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Superglue the tow hooks to the rear panel.

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Push the window winder handle through the door panel.  This needs a firm push, but it does click in.  I used the flat of a screwdriver blade pressing on the end of the shaft, being careful not to press on the handle itself.

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Now push the gear wheel onto the shaft.

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This shows the mechanism nicely.  It works remarkably well.

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Glue the door together only after making sure the window works well.

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Then add the cab panel.  

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Finally add the door handle.

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Stage 3 gives us the front grill and another cab door.

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Glue the logo tot he grill with the tiniest drop of superglue.  I use a cocktail stick to apply a tiny smear.

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Then add the rear grill.  This just clips in, but a tiny smear of superglue wouldn't hurt.

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The door assembly is a repeat of the other door.

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Then add the cab panel.

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Stage 5 gives us the cab roof and some details.

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Firstly, assemble the two parts of the antenna and fit this to the cab roof.  This is all press together.

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The aircon unit is assembled and fitted to the roof.  All press fit, apart from the grill that needs a tiny smear of super glue.

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The other radio antenna is pushed into place.

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The LED is a push fit too.

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That completes this stage.  The remaining parts are fitted later as they are also used to cover screw heads.

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Stage 6 gives us the rear platform and rear axle.

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Sorry for the ropey photo!

The sides are screwed onto the platform front.

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Then the back is screwed on.  This all goes together nicely and holds itself square.

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Now add the platform light with a touch of super glue.

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I glued the lenses into the triple light with PVA glue since this dries clear.

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This is glued to the platform.

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We finish the platform (for now) by gluing the handrails on.

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Moving on to the rear axle assembly, the drive shaft is screwed to the rear axle.  Note that the post on the drive shaft would point upwards.

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Now add the wheel and hub cap.  

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I left the springs off for now - didn't want to lose them.

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Stage 7 gives us a storage compartment.

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Firstly superglue the steel bar into the shelf.

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Then glue the two halves of the shelf together.

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The door backs and fronts are glued together.  Note that the front and backs have numbers engraved in them to make identification easy.

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Slide the shelf in place, but don't glue it as it will need to be removed later.

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Finally glue the door hinges in place, making sure the doors open and close easily.

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  • 1 month later...

On with Pack 2.

Stage 9 gives us a front wheel and name plate.

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All we do is fit the tyre using boiling water to soften it.

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Stage 10 gives us roof details and the front axle.

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The aircon unit is assembled and fitted in the same manner as the previous one.

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The light unit pushes in easily.

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Drop the hub units onto the front axle.

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Fit the track rod.  You just lift the hub a tad and slide the track rod underneath.

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This instructions say to fit the front wheel to the axle assembly, but I decided that this was best left until after the axle is fitted to the chassis.

Stage 11 gives us another light unit and some chassis parts.

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Fit the light bar to the roof.  The rest of the parts are kept for later.

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Stage 12 gives us the front bumper and stabiliser

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Fit the tread plate to the front bumper.

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Followed by the bell.

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And the tow hooks. 

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Finally add the stabiliser.  This is fixed with a screw inside the front bumper.  The stabiliser is operating by pushing the grey button to extend the stabiliser to extend it, then just push the bottom up to retract it.

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Stage 12B gives us the chassis, and it's a big'un!!!

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Firstly, fit the front chassis part supplied in stage 11.

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Followed by the other chassis part from stage 11.

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Add the outrigger pads.  These ar superglued in place, but do a test fit first.  I needed to clear some paint from the holes int he chassis to get a good fit.

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Front door steps are added in the same way.

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The wheel arches are also super glued in place.  Again, do a test fit before applying any glue.  

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The front chrome wheel arches are also glued in place.  Note that the rounded corner goes to the front.

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Now we can add the drive shaft and back axles.  Firstly, I placed the springs on the chassis.

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Followed by the back axle assembly.

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This is screwed in place from the top of the model.

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Add the cross member.

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The silencer...

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The cylinder...

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...and the connector.

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The last step of this stage is to add the front axle unit.  Drop the springs on their posts and put the axle unit in position. Then secure it with the two screws.  I found these quite tight and definitely needed a spot of lubrication on the screws.
You can see I'd also added the wheel.

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Stage 13 is the components for the cab central console.

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Fit the speaker first, noting the position of the wires.

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Then add the cover.

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Add the grab handles.  These are glued in place.

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Followed by the axe.

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The cab divider glass and centre console storage is fitted next.  These are just pushed together.  I wouldn't use any glue on these parts even if they aren't very tight as you may need to remove them later.  In any case, the glass will be held securely top and bottom on the finished model, so it isn't going anywhere!

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Last add the engineer's switch panel.

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Stage 14 gives us the right rear cab door and Captain's seat.

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The seat is glued to its base.

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The door assembly is a repeat of the other doors so I won't repeat myself.

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Stage 15 is the cab floor and engineers seat.

51859819433_f0ef1d543b_b.jpg51859736226_cc238b8f08_b.jpg

 

 

 

Fit the assembled cab centre section to the cab floor.  Don't worry about tightening the screws too much as they will need to be removed again later to fit the main circuit board.

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Assemble and fit the engineer's seat.  Also fit the Captain's seat, which I forgot to photo!  Sorry!

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Now add the Thermal Imaging camera (which is a very expensive bit of kit.  I'm not convinced that it would be left lying on the floor!!) and the halligan bar.
Incidentally, the camera is more likely to be black than silver.  Google 'Fire Fighters thermal Camera' images will show you various examples. 

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Glue the 4 door magnets with super glue.  Make sure you get them with the red line on the inside, or they will force the door open rather than hold it closed!

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Stage 16 gives us the cab roof lining and various other details.

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Assemble the data terminal 

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Then fit it to the centre console.

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Fit the cab lights with PVA glue.

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This completes Pack 2

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  • 2 weeks later...

Pack 3 of the Fire Truck, and we make really good progress with the model in this pack.

Stage 17 gives us the jump seat, front headlight cluster, etc.

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The base goes on the seat....

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...and is fixed on the cab.

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The radio and flashlight are fitted easily.  The flashlight is just visible in the corner of the photo - rubbish framing on my part!

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The battery charger is pushed into place.

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The headlight lenses are pushed into place.  

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The front lenses are pushed into place.  Make sure you get the indicator lens the right way round!

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Then the circuit board is screwed in place.

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Stage 18 gives us the front left door and another seat.

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The seat is assembled and fitted as before.

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As is the door.

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Stage 19 gives us the dashboard and some roof details.

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Fir the kick board to the dashboard.

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Drop the 2 red buttons into the holes in the dash.  This is a bit fiddly, but not too bad if you use a paint of fine tweezers.

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Don't tip the dash or the buttons fall out!  Insert the circuit board.  It's secured with a drop of superglue, but do a test fit before you commit to using glue!
Only use a tiny drop of superglue as you don't want to risk excess glue sticking the buttons.

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The buttons look like this for the top.  Check that the click nicely.  

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Feed the turn signal pushbutton through the hole in the dash.

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Fit the pushbutton in place in the steering column, and glue it in place.  Be careful to only glue the areas indicated in the instructions.  The button needs to be able to move, so don't get any glue near that.  Don't press the button until the circuit board is in place or you're likely to break the glue joint.

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Now slide the switch board in place.  Now it's safe (and a good idea) to make sure the bottom operates nicely and you can feel the click.

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Glue the cover in place (not too much glue!!)

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Now screw the steering column in place.  

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Here's how my screw and cables look.

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Test fit the next circuit board.  I found that it didn't fit easily as the wires were jamming on the channels.

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Easily fixed.  I just trimmed the channel to clear the wires.

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Finally, put the push button in place and glue the circuit board in place.

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Add the detail tot he top of the dash.

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Add the second radio antenna to the roof.

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Stage 20 gives us another seat, light cluster and some other details.

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Fit the seat.

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Assemble and fit the water cooler and can cylinder.

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Finally assemble the light cluster, same as before.

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Pack 3 continues with stage 21.  Lots of parts in this stage!

Stage 21 gives us the cab!

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Fit the grill at the back.  I did need to clean the paint from the location holes and also a little from the edges of the grill.

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The corner panels needed gluing on, as did the folding step.

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Put the emergency light lenses in the bezels.  I glued these with a touch of PVA as they didn't seem that secure.  

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The side emergency light, side reflectors and side markers were all glued in place.

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Followed by the handles.

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The cab side windows just push in place.  You can also see the two power plugs that were glued in  place.

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The cab rear windows needed gluing in place.  I used superglue for this as I could keep the glue well away from the window.

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Fit the windscreen.  This was a little reluctant to go in, but a strategic push with tweezers persuaded it clip in.  A flat placed screwdriver would work as well, if not better.

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Success!!!!

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Fit the grill.

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Assemble the marker light and save for later.

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Fit the first cab rear door.  make sure the door is in the closed position, then tighten the screw.  This helps make sure the door stays correctly aligned.

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As seen from the inside.  The top of the inside panel is springing any from the cab a little, but don't worry about this as it's pushed back into place by the cab ceiling when that's fitted.

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Add the other rear door.

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Screw the cab roof in place.  You may beed to scrap the paint off the bottom edge of the cab roof to get a perfect fit.  I did, but it was only a fraction that needed to come off.

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Now add the remaining roof pars to cover the screw holes.

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Hold the wires in place with masking tape.  This will make fitting the ceiling a whole lot easier!!

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Insert the ceiling and push it down firmly, making sure that the cables come out in the centre of the rear wall.  Make sure it's fully home then screw in the two screws.

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Stage 22 gives us the other front wheel.

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This is assembled and fitted the same way as the other front wheel.

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Stage 23 gives us the main circuit board.

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Fit the remaining crew seat.

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Remove the centre console from the cab floor then screw the main circuit board in to the centre console and plug in the speaker cable.

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Clip the dash into the centre console.

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Plug in the cables.  The plugs only go in one way round, so don't force them.

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Arrange the speaker cables so they don't go in front of the speaker.  The speaker is very close to the front grill so the cables would stop it fitting properly.

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Fit the front light clusters.

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Then fit the front doors, as before, keep the doors closed when you tighten the screws.

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Finally, fit the two front emergency lights.

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Now comes the 'fun' part, trying to fit the centre console in the cab.  It's not easy.  Firstly, I did find that my glass partition was too wide.  I trimmed it with a sharp knife.  Lots of light cuts to get a straight and neat edge.  I'd suggest removing the partition from the console and test fitting it on its own.

This is how it fitted first.  It fitted nicely after a light trim.

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Here you can see it's nice and straight.

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This is how the dashboard sits against the windscreen.  My dash needed a trim as the instructions suggested.

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I also found that it's quite difficult to get the dash past the headlamp cables.  Keep these flat against the front bulkhead as you push the dash past them.  It's tight, but they will go.

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Once it's in place you can plug in the roof light LEDs.

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This completes Pack 3.  
 

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  • 1 month later...

On with Pack 4!  

Stage 24 gives us an electrical panel.

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Glue the floor and panel into the cabinet.

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Glue the door handle in place with superglue.

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I found the the door inner wouldn't fit as the square moulding was fouling on the magnet.  A quick trim with a craft knife sorted this!

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Then the door went together perfectly.

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Glue the door in place and that completes this stage.

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Stage 25 gives us the body midsection and water supply panel.

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Fit the electrical panel just assembled into the body midsection.

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Now add the water supply panel along with the emergency light, water valves and hand wheel.

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Add the upper and lower sep and the support.  These were all superglued in place, and all added simultaneously to ensure that the steps and support all lined up properly.

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Then the side panel was added along with the road cone.  (I jumped ahead in the instructions a little here, in case you're wondering why things are out of sequence.)

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Add the details to the right water supply panel and fix this in place.  Pay close attention to the supply elbow as it's possible to get this the wrong way round.

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Add the side panel and step to complete the stage.

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Stage 26 gives us the right outrigger.

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Assemble the light and fix it to the outrigger.

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Then the outrigger is screwed to the mid section with a couple of screws.

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That's about half way through Pack 4.  I'll finish the pack shortly.

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On with Pack 4.

Stage 27 Gives us the body midsection roof and electrical panel

52024943911_76de320cc4_b.jpg

 

 

Add the electrical panel to the compartment (which I forgot to photograph!) then glue the door and handle in place.

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Now push the panel into the body.  This photo also shows the panel I forgot to photo....

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Next we fit the roof.  I used superglue to make sure this stayed in place, although the instructions didn't mention it.

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Fit the pike pole brackets and clamps.  I glued these all in place.

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Add the first pike pole to complete the stage.

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Stage 28 gives us the left outrigger and another pike pole.

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Fitting the outrigger is a repeat of stage 26.

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Now add the second pike pole and the turntable base that was supplied in issue 24.  The base is screwed from underneath.

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Stage 29 gives us a heavy midsection base.  Presumably this is to make sure the model doesn't topple when the ladder is extended.  You also get a neat little tool to press the buttons in the cab.  Idea for those of us who don't have 1/24 scale fingers!

52025456400_8f85c37be2_b.jpg

 

This is screwed into the body midsection with 3 screws.

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Stage 30 gives us the box frame and rear body front panel.

52024977698_4facb2ef30_b.jpg

 

Glue the canister detail and fluid tank to the front panel.  

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This completes the stage, and the Pack!

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