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Mark

Mark's Super Snake

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Hi Folks, this is the abbreviated story of my Super Snake.  I'm posting a full diary on my own forum and will put the highlights here.  Links to my full diary are included with Agora's permission.

I'll be building the model as per the instructions, but with a few added details.  These will be easy enough to do if anybody wants to copy them, and I'll only be using commonly available stuff.  Paint, fuse wire, bits of rod or tubing, etc.  

Lets start with pack 1.

The first stage is nice and straight forward.  I routinely put a touch of Vaseline in the metal holes and it makes the screws go in so much easier.  

49439851827_4707852504_c.jpg

Stage 2 is equally straight forward.

49439852267_99fe0fc0fc_c.jpg

 

Stage 3 doesn't present too may problems either.  Just make sure you get the hinge the right way round.  Flicking the hinge up as mentioned in the instructions certainly makes it easier to get the screw tight.

49439629961_55efb940b7_c.jpg

Stage 4 is a little more tricky.  Get the handle in the bracket as shown.

49439629456_415dd496a2_c.jpg

Carefully put the bracket in the door panel.

49439629536_8a3a37c4a1_c.jpg

It looks like this from the outside (of the door, inside of the car - you know what I mean!  LOL!!)

49439854212_3c23116e59_c.jpg

Then hold it all in place, and screw the screws in.  This bit is definitely a bit fiddly!

49439155503_1d4dc1af6e_c.jpg

Fit the window winder and lower trim, and screw the door together.  

49439853297_962768e3df_c.jpg

Now you need to carefully slide the upper trim underneath the handle.  This is a bit nerve wracking, but the handle is stronger than it looks.

49439853087_9c1cbcdf34_c.jpg

The seat is plain sailing.

49439153613_694c992666_c.jpg

The full diary is here.  http://www.partworkmodels.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=202&t=9159

 

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Pack 2.  This is mostly a repeat of pack one with the other door and seat, so it doesn't need much discussion.  I did have a bit of flash on the lower door trim.  Not a lot, and it the part could be forced into position.  However, it fits much better if you remove the flash.

49588244497_1664ee79a4_c.jpg

This is easily removed by sanding it off.

49587998541_135d533c26_c.jpg

The finished door looks like this.

49587998721_d6605aabed_c.jpg

The seat is dead easy!

49587504608_ff7ef52ae2_c.jpg

The fuel tank is straight forward too.

49587997821_9d30a12794_c.jpg

I did touch in the screw heads with Tamiya flat aluminium paint to make them a bit less conspicuous.  They will be visible if you open the boot (OK, trunk as it's an American car!)

49588244287_a81518b5db_c.jpg

Again, my full diary is here.  http://www.partworkmodels.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=202&t=9159

 

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Pack 3. It all gets a bit bigger now, with the back axle and the rear chassis.

The rear chassis goes on no problem.  It fitted like Lego!!

49712066833_0ff07a31d2_c.jpg

The floor pan goes on now, but has to be removed some time in the future.  

49712600821_91af65203d_c.jpg

I screwed the part in tightly and then backed the screws off a turn.  This ensures that the self tapping screws have cut the thread completely, so when you come to remove and re-fit the floor pan, it will come off easily, and more importantly, tighten up easily as well.  We don't know how much detail will have been added by then, and it we don't want to risk damaging the model by having to apply lots of force tightening screws.

49712600696_facb75aeab_c.jpg

The back axle goes together easily.  Just make sure you get the T slot the right way up!!

49712924112_d05ff67108_c.jpg

The springs go on the back axle and fit into this hole.  Watch you don't press on the fuel filler when the model is upside down.

49712065508_9f00c38545_c.jpg

A bit of making tape to hold the springs in place makes this a lot easier!

49712923717_fcae427ab2_c.jpg

The wheel arch is easy.

49712924957_9cfa608cf6_c.jpg

The leaf springs are not too difficult, but pay attention to make sure everything goes the right way round.  It's easy to get parts the wrong way round if you're not careful.  The pin fixing the shackle to the spring deserves a mention.  It goes in from either side, and it goes in fairly easily.  If you're struggling to push it in, it's probably not lined up with the hole in the far side of the shackle.  I actually tapped these in with a small hammer as I didn't have a large enough pair of pliers handy.  It only needed a very gentle tap.

49712924747_7566acd3d3_c.jpg

The finished spring fits like this.  It was a bit of a game getting the shackles lined up with the holes in the chassis but goes in easily enough when everything is lined up properly.

49712066388_0d9b6932d6_c.jpg

The spring plate went on very easily.  Again, make sure it's the right way round.

49712600391_48560f7c3f_c.jpg

The other side is a repeat, and the finished pack looks like this.

49712923732_f1118e151e_c.jpg

My full dairy is here.  http://www.partworkmodels.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=202&t=9159

 

 

 

 

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I agree with scalemodelfan, your pics are really good and will be very helpful in building this kit. Your post here is like the 'Reader's Digest' version.

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Thanks guys.  Glad you like the style and find it useful.

The pics are just taken with an iPhone.  Nothing fancy.  Just careful framing so you don't  see the clutter on the rest of the table 😊

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I've now got pack 4 of Agora's Shelby Super Snake.  Most of this issue is completing the chassis, although we make a start on the steering mechanism.

Stage 23.  The middle chassis.

49891108432_dfe7f91d36_c.jpgUntitled 

This is simply fitted with 4 screws, lubricated with Vaseline of course.

The completed stage looks like this.

49891108317_c1a9ed019d_c.jpgUntitled

Stage 24.  The front floor pan.

This is what you get.

49890282408_bd588fa547_c.jpgUntitled 

This is held in place with 9 screws.  This instructions remind us that this will need to be removed to fit the exhaust pipes, so I screwed it firmly into place, then backed the screws off 1/2 a turn so they will come out easily.  

When you fit the part in place, make sure the tabs go down flush with the chassis.  Also be very careful tightening these screws as they will strip the threads very easily.

49890282313_1c2d30c3cf_c.jpgUntitled

The finished stage looks like this.

49890282348_e39309eaa8_c.jpgUntitled 

Stage 25 is the drive shaft.

It comes in two halves.

49891107867_1846616b97_c.jpgUntitled 

and goes together like this.  

49891107872_04ce4a80db_c.jpgUntitled 

It's fitted like this.  Note that the round pin goes int eh gearbox, and the flat, T shaped tab goes in the rear diff housing.  Be careful not to damage the fuel filler pipe while the model is upside down.

49890796846_ea0da20396_c.jpgUntitled 

Stage 26 gives us the gearbox and crossmember.

49891107447_d4cc8ce5a7_c.jpgUntitled 

The gearbox goes in like this, and is screwed from the top.

49890796786_2c815b5d3d_c.jpgUntitled 

Followed by the crossmember.

49890796791_5c4960a105_c.jpgUntitled 

Stage 27 gives us the front chassis.

49890796881_50478bd502_c.jpgUntitled 

This goes on easily with 4 screws.  This is getting BIG now.  And it's getting difficult to photograph in my work space while keeping the clutter out of shot!

49891107507_9e484db8df_c.jpgUntitled 

Stage 28, the front fender splash guards.  I think I'd call these the wheel arch closing plates, but it is an American car!

49890796936_5f694c7f8f_c.jpgUntitled 

This is the right hand side.  Note the orientation.  Usually I use the Agora provided screwdriver as it's a nice comfortable tool to hold.  However, a screwdriver with a longer shaft makes these parts easier to fit.

49890281808_00a86ae2bc_c.jpgUntitled 

This is the left hand side.  This completes the basic chassis.

49890798036_dd3a2ca0de_c.jpgUntitled 

Stage 29.  The steering rods.

49890798066_acfcf2a6f5_c.jpgUntitled 

These go together with 2 screws.  Watch the orientation of the parts!  My first thought was to screw these up without using any Vaseline as these parts will move and you don't want them working loose.  However, The screws were very tight going in, so I relented and did add a smear to the threads.  The screws are still quite tight to go in, and it's not like the model is going to be played with, so I don't think there is any chance they will come loose.  Back the screws off 1/4 of a turn if the arms don't move freely.

49891108327_7f05ea94dc_c.jpgUntitled 

Stage 30 gives us a couple of suspension brackets and some more of the steering mechanism.

49890797996_78c4f9c667_c.jpgUntitled 

The brackets go on like this.  They are identical, so it doesn't matter which side is which.

49890282893_f55b24197c_c.jpgUntitled 

The steering gear goes on like this.

49890282893_f55b24197c_c.jpgUntitled 

It's screwed from the other side, and the screw is very deep in the chassis, so a magnetised screwdriver is a must.

49890797401_bd198e368a_c.jpgUntitled 

The Pitman are goes on the steering rods.  Again, back the screw off 1/4 turn if the arm doesn't move freely.

49890282413_bc3b1238a3_c.jpgUntitled 

This completes the stage.  My model now looks like this.

49890496233_4e1c4de2b6_c.jpgUntitled 

Here's a link to Agora's web site. https://www.agoramodels.com/super-snake/

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22 hours ago, Mario´s Schiffsmodellbau said:

Oh, so big. Very beautiful.


 

It's massive!!  The finished car is going to be a real star!

 

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On with Pack 5.  

Stage 31 gives us the stabiliser bar and lower suspension arms.

This is what we get

49963673661_b6edc4d0e4_c.jpgUntitled 

First off, I found that I'd got the suspension brackets on the wrong way round.  Either nobody spotted it, or everybody was too polite to point out the mistake!  Anyway, it's an easy matter to unscrew them and refit them the right way round.  This is what they should look like.

49963673656_d196f58728_c.jpgUntitled 

 

Place the component in position.
49963956822_ef58e29afc_c.jpgUntitled 

Put the pins in the lower suspension arms, like this.

49963172723_37cdeca8b1_c.jpgUntitled

Squeeze home fully.  

49963673616_abc3b0b8f1_c.jpgUntitled

The strut rods are screwed into the slots in the chassis.  When tightened, they should still be free to slide in the slots.  This is to allow the suspension to move.

49963956742_3845417f92_c.jpgUntitled 

Now the tie rod assembly is fitted.  This just slides over the pitman arm.

49963172763_5bd0654910_c.jpgUntitled 

The steering rack fits under the steering gear like this.

49963956637_eb01f8ecae_c.jpgUntitled

I taped the arms in place with masking tape to save them flapping about loose.  This completes this pack.

49963172638_efbe8efab6_c.jpgUntitled

Stage 32 The upper suspension arms.

These are the parts we get.

49963172618_050725f766_c.jpgUntitled 

The arms are assembled with the pins.  Be careful to get the parts the right way round.

49963956607_3e7e810526_c.jpgUntitled 

Pins driven fully home.

49963172513_522de05a98_c.jpgUntitled 

Then simply screw the brackets in place.  Simples!!

49963673271_0d20389e5a_c.jpgUntitled

This completes this stage.

49963956387_0a83d80119_c.jpgUntitled 

Stage 33 The front floor and gear lever.

These are the parts we get.

49963956392_d9538c55ae_c.jpgUntitled 

The lever was taped to the underside of the floor which keeps it safe from any damage.

49963956457_6d331d1363_c.jpgUntitled 

The carpet is represented with flocking, and is really nice.  

49963956447_1bf5c46af0_c.jpgUntitled 

One screw and we're done!

49963172463_2abdbf16b6_c.jpgUntitled 

The printing on the knob is superb!!

49963173568_862537a4ae_c.jpgUntitled 

To be continued......

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Stage 34.  Here we fit the pedals and switches.

These are the parts we get.

49963957512_ea6240b2d3_c.jpg

First off, the inner side walls are fitted to the floor.

49963957502_1cdd68b992_c.jpg 

They are secured with three screws each.

49963173483_aeb4eee29c_c.jpg

Now we move on to the switches.  These are a little bit fiddly, but not too bad.  Make sure you get them the right way round; the instructions are clear.  They just sit int he bracket and are a little loose.  This is normal, as stated in the instructions, and they work just fine when that is finished.

49963173478_8c67e33258_c.jpg

Then place the bracket on the underside of the floor, pick up the switch that just fell out, and try again!   :lol:   When they are in position, fix with the screw.  

49963674496_f111707d40_c.jpg

Make sure that the buttons are pocking into the holes in the floor.  Not a great photo, but it's a small black button recessed in a small hole surrounded by black flocking!  That's my excuse, and I'm sticking to it!!

49963674446_235a552d22_c.jpg

The pedals go on nice and easily.  They didn't work the switches until the screws were tight.  However, once the screws are tighten (don't over tighten and strip them) they work perfectly and have a nice satisfying click.

49963957437_67b0d551ab_c.jpg

This is the completed stage.

49963674436_9257c87606_c.jpg

Stage 35.  The dashboard.

Here's what we get.

49963674421_7f2c536813_c.jpg

The fuse cover fits like this.

49963674381_b76c2ee907_c.jpg

Just fitted with one screw in the back.

49963674391_924e42eaea_c.jpg

There is an inset photo on the 'completed stage' page on the instructions saying that there may be a carpeted peg in a hole.  This will be where they put a plug in the screw hole so it doesn't get filled up with flock.  Mine was clear, but I guess there may be the odd one missed, so it's worth checking this carefully.

49963957277_2716916617_c.jpg

Here is the dash resting on the floor.  

49963173273_77dfc7b920_c.jpg

Stage 36.  This is a nice stage where we add some 60's chrome to the dash!!

49963957307_ca6a1daff4_c.jpg

I added the stickers with a pair of tweezers.

49963674311_6a71f235d9_c.jpg

They end up looking like this.

49963674186_38fe7e87db_c.jpg

Give the dial glasses a polish and place them in the trim.

49963957167_696bbd61d4_c.jpg

Then put the trim in place.

49963957147_8c8860938f_c.jpg

Now add the dashboard strip, and screw it in place.  You need to push it on straight or the bushes for the screws are reluctant to go in their holes.

49963674116_92e9c6ee33_c.jpg

Apply the G.T. 500 sticker carefully.

49963173173_ebcb892663_c.jpg

Screw this in place thus.  I found the MP05 screws were a bit long to go in easily, so I changed them for some spare MP03 screws from the spares box.  

49963674096_35d7900618_c.jpg

Here's the completed stage.

49963957077_679ebc86c4_c.jpg

Stage 37 is the 60's style radio, dials and a glove box (Who's going to be first to make some 1/8 scale driving gloves ?)

49963956957_20fe362767_c.jpg

The radio goes on first.  Again, this has some lovely fine printing on it.

49963956922_bc4f23f53f_c.jpg

As before, stickers represent the dials.

49963172883_912a4f9e10_c.jpg

Glass in place.

49963673851_64b8b40404_c.jpg

Bezels screwed in place.  As the instructions hint, the MP05 screw did strip the thread, but a spare MP01 screw held firmly.

49963673836_f2bba0156b_c.jpg

The dials screwed in place.

49963673791_63e62b151e_c.jpg

The glove box inner screws in place easily.

49963956862_a32d77c9b3_c.jpg

Then the cover just clips into place.  

49963956907_e7a95b0008_c.jpg

Finally screw it into place to the floor.  

49963956812_741ff81b80_c.jpg

Here's the completed stage.  

49963673716_98ba18ea3c_c.jpg

Stage 38 completes this pack with the rear floor and the front seat belts.  Only lap belts in this car.  

Incidentally, modern seat belts came in 1958 when Swedish engineer Nils Bohlin invented the three-point seatbelt for Volvo.  Volvo opened up the patent so all car manufacturers could fit these style belts, which have saved countless lives.  The original lap belt was a British invention the 1800s.

Anyway, I digress.  These are the parts we get.

49963957032_073b4e63fa_c.jpg

The anchors just clip into the floor.  There were quite tight and needed a firm push to get in.  Be careful to keep them straight as you push or you'll risk bending the tabs,.

49963673996_62ee3cb91e_c.jpg

Both anchors fitted then the front and rear floor sections are screwed together.

49963173003_4762f582fd_c.jpg

Feed the belts through he slots in the floor.  Tweezers definitely help with this!!  Make sure you get the belt the Shelby logo facing upwards.

49963957012_4990dc8457_c.jpg

Fit the metal buckles over the posts like this.

49963172968_fb9c8f19c0_c.jpg

Masking tape is added carefully as suggested by their expert.

49963172958_7822e4734a_c.jpg

I also taped the wires to the bottom of the floor as a temporary measure to stop them getting tangles or snagged.

49963172963_93a279002d_c.jpg

This completes the pack.  I do like the way Agora are building up the model is a sensible order.  Not jumping about like many other partwork series do.

 

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I've got pack 6 now.  Stage 39 gives us the floor mats and fire extinguishers.

50083051028_c154477c8c_c.jpg

The front floor mats fit like this.  I found that these required a lot of effort to get the mats to locate in the holes.  I cleared out the holes as recommended in the instructions, but it still too a very firm push with a flat screwdriver blade to get the pegs firmly in the holes.

50083052463_162b16a3c5_c.jpg

This is what it should look like from the bottom.

50083635226_190b5abbdc_c.jpg

The rear mats go like this.  The instructions say to put the long strip at the rear, but they don't fit properly.  There is a large hole and peg, and a small hole and peg, so they only go one way.  Mine went with the long strip at the front.  You could drill out the smaller holes if you wished and fit the mats the right way round according to the instructions.  However, it's a very small detail, so I'm happy to fit them as below.

50083052353_6b308d861e_c.jpg

Then the seats are fitted with 2 screws for each seat, and the seatbelts can then clip int he buckles.  Just be careful not to trap the belts under the seat when you fix the seats.
The seats are marked with L & R so no excuses for getting them wrong!

50083051573_c5991ede45_c.jpg

On to the fire extinguisher.  This clips together as shown.

50083872132_6388e6d7fc_c.jpg

Tweezers help to apply the sticker accurately.

50083871237_1f37a43440_c.jpg

And the whole thing clips in between the seats nicely.

50083871842_10fba03870_c.jpg

This completes the stage.

50083634711_8b40355b43_c.jpg

Stage 40 gives us the rear seat support.

50083636021_1d7f712c99_c.jpg

This clips in place fairly well.

50083634616_ba9cb084dc_c.jpg

Then screws in place with 4 screws.  Make sure the centre pip is properly located.

50083636006_1741cd6bc6_c.jpg

The completed stage looks like this.

50083871707_20d141205b_c.jpg

Stage 41 gives us the interior rear platform

50083051003_45f94ecd35_c.jpg

Three screws and we're done.

50083052528_f257110a4f_c.jpg

The completed stage looks like this.

50083871647_64382a2d26_c.jpg

Stage 42 gives us the left rear interior panel.

50083634536_44ce056d09_c.jpg

This is a decorative accessory.  That's probably what I'd call it if I didn't know what it was either!!  Anyway, it's shiny, looks nice, and screws in with a screw from the back!

50083872092_1028cb6800_c.jpg

The seat panel release (folding rear seat!) is also screwed in from the back.

50083051498_7a17e3bb51_c.jpg

It's fitted with three screws.

50083871307_df155be61a_c.jpg

The completed stage looks like this.

50083052143_ba23b239b7_c.jpg

Stage 43 gives us the left upper interior panel.

50083680741_8d73f1bcf1_c.jpg

The decorative panel fits like this, and is screwed in place with 2 screws in the back.

50083634826_57a5ef378a_c.jpg

Then this is fixed with 1 small screw and 2 larger screws.  I found it best to get all three points properly locates as best you can, then put all the screws in loosely before tightening them all.

50083635321_2e7a2a82ff_c.jpg

Here's the completed stage.

50083870952_b83de6acd2_c.jpg

Stage 44 gives the the trunk partition panel.  

50083871702_9761cea2b8_c.jpg

The instructions tell you to clear any flash from the slots in the pegs, and you need to.  The pegs (tenons) won't go in the holes if you don't.

50083052478_2b955523fb_c.jpg

Then it clips in and fixes with three screws.

50083870962_d70d8c5aa0_c.jpg

The completed stage looks like this.

50083051828_2b2f27e5c6_c.jpg

Stage 45 gives us the start of the folding rear seat.

50083635856_f322422dde_c.jpg

The piano hinge is really nice and articulates perfectly.  It's fitted in place with 3 really tine screws.  Hope you remembered to magnetise your screwdriver.

The instructions say it will only go one way round, but it's not completely idiot proof.  I should know, I've spent most of my career trying to make things idiot proof.  Unfortunately they keep making more creative idiots!  Anyway, I digress.  Pay close attention to the pictures in the instructions and it's easy to get it the right way round.

50083051563_32d638a5a4_c.jpg

Stage 46 gives us the rest of the back seat.

50083098448_035affb211_c.jpg

Push the two parts together firmly.

50083635696_8d04cda48f_c.jpg

The more tiny screws and you end up with this.

50083871297_69d0783346_c.jpg

It moves really nicely!  

50083098443_9262276e26_c.jpg

This is the model at the end of this pack.  Obviously the cabin is just sat in place, but it's looking really nice now.

50083052163_84a6162137_c.jpg

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Loving the pictures and descriptions, Mark!

 

Can you at all break your build diary into subsets for each pack as you go? The one entry takes heaps of scrolling to get to the latest content. I’ve seen General Lou manage it for his builds, so hopefully it can work for you too.

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Thanks guys!  

It shouldn't be a problem to split the diary into smaller posts.  I'll probably group them in related sections.

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I'll split the diary posts into sensibly grouped sections, rather than individual stages.  Hopefully this will make it a bit easier to navigate.

Here we go with Pack 7.  

Stage 47 gives us the right interior panel

50188197718_fb87a452e3_c.jpg

The assembly is the same as stage 42.  

50188197633_a9bde5798d_c.jpg

When you assemble it, pay attention to making sure the back of the panel fits properly.  I started at the back and worked forwards.  Here's a close-up showing the rear correctly fitted.  If the rear most screw holes don't line up easily, it's probably not fitted quite right.

50188996597_e13f24df62_c.jpg

Then the rest pretty much falls into place.

50188996587_951302883e_c.jpg

It should end up all fitting nicely.  

50188197493_e6898debfe_c.jpg

Then clip the seat in place.  The instructions say to leave the front screw out, but I found that the seat clipped in easily with all the screws fitted.

50188996422_3ed7cc06fa_c.jpg

It folds down really nicely!  This completes the stage.

50188197348_2e0ceda848_c.jpg

Stage 48. Right upper panel

50188745036_4d78fcc6c2_c.jpg

This is identical to stage 43 so I won't repeat myself.  This is the completed stage.

50188995952_37aafb4867_c.jpg


 

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Stage 49 Lower dash panel, roll bar and seat belts.

50188196878_b0d20673f3_c.jpg

The lower dash panel is tricky to fit in situ, but it's very easy to remove the dashboard.  Just remove 2 screws.

50188995932_7385621175_c.jpg

Then the panel can be fitted very easily.

50188995842_da86a1aca2_c.jpg

From the front, then it's a simple matter to refit the dash.

50188995672_dce0852851_c.jpg

Next the seat belts and roll bar.

First the belts are fitted into the retractor housings.  This must be one of the first cars to be fitted with inertia reel seat belts.

50188744636_2a5e6d0be0_c.jpg

Then the housing is screwed to the roll bar.  Repeat for the other belt.

50188744406_42a084349d_c.jpg

Then the roll bar is fitted to the cabin.  The pegs go in the holes easy enough, but they do need to be straight.

50188995162_029c969de2_c.jpg

The ends of the belts go in the slots in the floor.  This proofed to be easier than I expected.  

50188995202_864b717b1a_c.jpg

They didn't seem to located very firmly on the pegs.

50188995187_9a8d8443bb_c.jpg

A bit of masking tape made sure they weren't going anywhere!

50188995107_c72f93f075_c.jpg

Finally, bring the belts over the corners of the seats.  This was a little bit of a stretch.  This completes the issue.

50188744336_19be66386e_c.jpg

Stage 50 Rear seat and belts.

50188995197_531e1e65ff_c.jpg

The inner belts are fitted thus.

50188196118_0026485735_c.jpg

The outer belts are fitted int eh same manner, then this is subassembly is screwed in place.  This completes this stage.

50189018992_732939170a_c.jpg

Stage 51 The rear platform.

50188219613_31a5b1fff7_c.jpg

The two main parts clip together.

50188767696_7fd55ee9f3_c.jpg

Then this is screwed in place.

50189018962_2ef03f5cfe_c.jpg

The two setback locks are screwed in place.

50189029882_0094fef2e2_c.jpg

This completes this stage.

50188767751_8e57111c5a_c.jpg

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On to the wheels next with stage 52 and the front left wheel.

50188219653_c0849eee88_c.jpg

The first wheel is wrestled onto the tyre!  The instructions are pretty good with the process.  Boiling water, then let the tyre soak for a few minutes.  Pick them up with tweezers.  Dry the excess water off with a tissue, and then work the tyre onto the wheel.  Be careful not to catch the tyre valve. It looks quite delicate.

50188767731_478386a8c8_c.jpgUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

The hub goes on to the brake disc cover.

50188199693_487b04d4a3_c.jpg

Put the brake disc in place.

50188199688_82672fe9a2_c.jpg

Then the disc is held in place with the caliper.  This is secured with an MD04 screw.  This didn't seem to hold very securely, so I reinforced it with a drop of superglue around the screw head.  This wicked into the assembly and it all seemed a lot more rigid.

50188998522_a835528d8b_c.jpgUntitled by Mark Wakelin, on Flickr

I pre-threaded the hub with the MD02 screw, with some Vaseline applied.  This makes it much easier to fit the wheel.  It's difficult to fully thread the screw with the wheel in place.

50188199548_20c35543fa_c.jpg

The fitted wheel from the back....

50188747411_0e39116067_c.jpg

....and from the front.  The decorative centre is pushed in place, although not too firmly in case I want to remove the wheels again.  This completes the stage.

50188998422_42959d946c_c.jpg

Stage 53 is the front right wheel and tyre.

50188199468_f935482086_c.jpg

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Stage 54, silencer and exhaust pipes.

50188199398_fe9a40f8a4_c.jpg

This assembly is a little tricky.  Firstly, loosely assemble the silencer.  It need to be loose enough sot he can fiddle the pipes in the holes.  Then fit the right intermediate pipe and straight pipe in the right holes, and tighten the right screw.

50188747031_f78406465b_c.jpg

Now insert the left pipes and tighen the left screw in the silencer.

50188997942_2929431f00_c.jpg

Now take the mufflers and scrape the chrome off the pegs....

50188997802_417208b111_c.jpg

....and superglue them in place.  Removing the chrome plating serves 2 purposes.  It gives you a stronger glued joint (chrome plating doesn't take glue very well at all) and also helps the mufflers fit better.

This completes the stage.

50188997817_680563893f_c.jpg

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Stage 55 The front right wheel

50188746676_60e6b28758_c.jpg

This assembly is the same as stage 52, so I won't repeat myself.  After all, we can all copy and paste! LOL!!

This is the completed stage.

50188746651_c96a40172c_c.jpg

Lay the wheels and steering rack as they are fitted to ensure you get them the right way round.  It's also worth rethreading the screw holes, using some Vaseline to make assembly easier.

50188997347_dde55285ae_c.jpg

Screw the steering arms to the tie rods.  

50188997222_9465129f7b_c.jpg

Here's a close up of the left wheel.

50188198478_550d2a03b7_c.jpg

and the right wheel.

50188997127_db016455d7_c.jpg

Then the hubs are secured to the upper and lower suspension arms.  When positioning the steering rack and tie rods, make sure the rack and pitman arm are correctly fitted.  You can refer back to stage 29 for more details.

50188198163_0774237429_c.jpg

This is the upper suspension arm.

50188745901_3759604e24_c.jpg

The front wheels and suspension should now look like this.

50188745931_05e873db57_c.jpg

The model looks like this at the end of pack 7.  

50188197808_1e9ee7dd62_c.jpg


 

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I've got Pack 8 now.

Stage 56.  Rear shock and brake

This is what we get

50341015068_9279b1c7be_c.jpg

First off, assemble the shock cylinder to the mounting bracket with the pin.  This one goes very easily.  It just took a light squeeze with a pair of pliers.

50341697081_9273f6ba5f_c.jpg

Remove the spring plate.  (On the other side I discovered you can actually tithe shock quite easily without removing the plate)

50341856692_709a42f214_c.jpg

Fit the shock cylinder assembly.  Note that this only goes one way round.  It's obviously wrong if you get it wrong.  However, it's impossible to photo as it's buried too deep and too dark.

50341696846_297bac2404_c.jpg

Fit the shock piston.

50341856707_8b64b1f79c_c.jpg

Put it all back together.  Job done!

50341016378_c3404f3775_c.jpg

You can test fit the brake drum, but there's little point as it's all loose and floppy at this stage.

50341857757_ed051f2f71_c.jpg

This completes the stage.

Stage 57, left rear wheel.

Another tyre wrestling session.  

50341695931_948cd979f0_c.jpg

Pop the brake drum in place....

50341858497_7bd939936f_c.jpg

...and fit the wheel.  This is much easier to screw in place than the front wheels were, as the axle is plastic, not metal.

50341857552_709a0b47ec_c.jpg

Three wheels on my wagon!

Stage 58, right rear suspension and brake.

Similar parts to stage 56.

50341856207_e5749c4b81_c.jpg

I did this side without removing the plate.  It goes easily.

50341015998_0bcaf1d867_c.jpg

Stage 59, the penultimate tyre wresting match!!

50341695931_948cd979f0_c.jpg

Then fit the wheel.  

50341857302_489ac297a3_c.jpg

Hurray!!  Now we have all four wheels fitted.  

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Stage 60, the exhaust system

This is what we get

50341856212_1e7ebe184a_c.jpg

The first job is to remove the rear floor pan.  

50341697381_cae9c5623a_c.jpg

Then wiggle the exhaust system into place, and screw it in place with a total of 6 screws.  The exhaust went in OK, but it was a bit fiddly getting all the screw holes lined up.  Tip.  Get all the screws in loosely before tightening any of them.  It's an old engineering trick.  It allows the parts to move a bit making it easier to get the last couple of screws in.

50341857317_b0b5aa28f6_c.jpg

Then put the floor pan back.  You also need to ensure all the other floor pan screws are tight as well.

50341695481_61f038d8f0_c.jpg

Now fit the 3 parts of the exhaust system together.  

50341858177_3a97665988_c.jpg

Now clip the resonators into the rear assembly, then screw them in place from the top of the model.

50341016503_1fc165a7bb_c.jpg

Now finish the assembly by screwing the front pipes to the floor panel.

50341015543_a9a12711c0_c.jpg

Tis completes the stage, and the exhaust system for now.

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Stage 61, the steering wheel.  This one is a little tricky to assemble at times.

This is what we get.

50341014603_3d99e7b08e_c.jpg

The first job is the hammer the pinion onto the shaft.  This needs to go all the way down, or the cockpit tub won't fit onto the chassis properly.  Go on, ask me how I know.....
If you can see any hint of the flat on the shaft, you need to give it another tap or two.  The shaft seems pretty strong, but keep it completely vertical, and give it firm taps, but you're not trying to ring the bell at the fairground game!  Several medium taps is much safer than a few hard hits.  

50341016438_f4194f6b57_c.jpg

The push button goes on the column cover like this, and you'll need to bend the wires to get it to fit.  Again, be firm, but not violent.  This photo is from a little later in the assembly, but it shows the switch position well.

50341016203_25bd2ae66f_c.jpg

Now insert the shaft and feed the wire down the side of the side of the cover.  Note that it goes outside the screw lug.

50341857702_60ca689640_c.jpg

Add the other half of the cover, and screw it all up.  Again, be careful not to trap the wire, and make sure the switch is properly seated.

50341856702_37202fa1e0_c.jpg

Add the steering wheel.  It just pushes on.  (Excuse the Tardis pencil holder.  It was all I could find to hold the column to take a decent photo.  3D printers are great though!)

50341015378_63ebb54596_c.jpg

Then push the horn push on.  Again, it just clips in.  You can also put the horn push on the steering wheel and then add the two parts.  That's actually slightly easier.
Now check that you can feel the click of the button as you push the horn push.  If not, pull the steering wheel off and reseat the parts.  You seem to have to get it 'just right' for it to work reliably.

50341856202_2d4fc5b9ea_c.jpg

This completes the stage.

50341696491_69ed1a6ffa_c.jpg


 

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Stage 62, the trunk panel.

Nothing to do with this yet, but this is the part.

50341695426_ded301528f_c.jpg

Moving swiftly on.....

Stage 63, the spare wheel, and we assemble the cockpit to the chassis.

This is the spare wheel assembled.  Ok, confession time!  It's not the spare wheel.  It's a photo of one of the road wheels...I forgot to take of photo of the spare!  The difference is the spare wheel doesn't have the studs.  Anyway, I'm glad that the tyres wrestling matches are over.

50188199468_f935482086_c.jpg

Moving on to the cockpit, firstly put the steering column assembly into the cockpit.  It will stick out like this.  Note the way the wire comes out.

50341697391_61a4e0563c_c.jpg

Screwing the column in place is a bit tricky.  Start by making sure the screw hole is lined up perfectly.

50341015038_4af48a4756_c.jpg

Put the column connect over the screw, then screw it into place.  It should end up looking like this.

50341858137_116295d7af_c.jpg

Put the cockpit in place.  Make sure that the wires aren't trapped underneath!

50341014613_4b68a8c054_c.jpg

The steering pinion must fit like this.

50341856172_41bf847e98_c.jpg

Add the retainer.  It just pushes in.

50341858122_ec1f956918_c.jpg

Now make sure the screw holes are all lines up properly and screw the cockpit to the chassis.  I found this was a bit reluctant.  The post of the screws slot fit into round sockets in the chassis, and it's a very positive location.  Make sure they are properly seated before trying to put the screws in.  The back ones went in quite easily, but it took a fair bit of persuasion to get the front ones in.  It's easier to put the front ones in first, then click in the back ones.  Get them all in before adding the screws.  

When done, it looks like this (bonus points if you spotted this is the same photo as earlier! LO!!)

50341014613_4b68a8c054_c.jpg

Make sure the wires for the pedals come out the side like this.

50341016298_c0de393f1e_c.jpg

This completes this stage.  Give yourself a pat on the back, the car is looking really good now!

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Stage 64.  Fitting the truck panels and spare wheel.

These are the parts we get.

50341016473_61f41e2f8a_c.jpg

Start off by slipping the three parts of the truck together.

50341015578_a32f07e023_c.jpg

Then clip them in place.  Don't screw them in yet.

50341014578_bece823a1d_c.jpg

Screw the jack to the spare wheel.  You could improve the jack with a bit of painting to pick out the screw thread, but I decided not to as you can't see it!

50341857632_ed54355481_c.jpg

Add the spare wheel lock, it just pushes in.

50341856687_effc402b44_c.jpg

Now push the spare in place in the holes in the truck.  I found this was much easier if the right hand trunk panel was completely removed. 

50341697486_443ca22443_c.jpg

The truck panel is refitted very easily after the spare wheel is in place.  

50341015188_c7af68f699_c.jpg

This completes this pack.

50341856187_c3f41a629e_c.jpg

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