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Mark last won the day on November 14

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About Mark

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    Shelby Cobra s/c. Finished the Shelby Super Snake
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  1. Stage 100!! Yeah!!!! We get the last of the engine details and finish the model!! As the expert suggests, remove the bonnet! It makes access so much easier and is easily refitted. Fit the Radiator hose and the oil cooler pipe. Now fit the oil vapour canister pipe. Then the small radiator hose. And the carb linkage. Now fit the canister set the fender liner, pushing the pipes down through to the underside of the model. The pipes push onto the battery box. I needed a little superglue to hold these securely
  2. Stage 99. More engine details, and the body gets fitted to the chassis. Apologies for the delay in posting this - I'm in the process of moving house. I'm currently trying to get decorating done before we move furniture in! The wheels get removed to make fitting the body easier. Then a pipe gets fitted to the flywheel cover. This just pushes in and the other end is connected later. Now make sure that the battery cable isn't crossing the square recess as that is for the brake switch. Now we start connection the rest of the cables. The headlight cables are fed through
  3. Thanks Wyatt. I’ll get the last couple of stages posted soon. Spoiler alert! The finished car looks amazing!
  4. Thanks Pierre! You could be right, but I’m not sufficiently familiar with the car to say either way. It struck me as an odd place to have an air cooler, but I’ve never seen a rear diff oil cooler either.
  5. Stage 98 Engine details Firstly, put the connectors onto the pipes and push them onto the canisters. The instructions mention one pipe being longer, but mine were all the same length. I'm not sure if this was a design change or a packing error, but either way, the final assembly went fine. So no worries if yours are all the same length. This instructions then say to connect some of the cables. Sorry, I forgot to photo this stage, but there are photos of the wiring in a later stage.
  6. Stage 97 some more details and we fit the cockpit into the bodywork. This is a long stage with lots to do even though there aren't many parts supplied. The air cooler goes in first. Then the fuel filler cap is assembled and fitted. Nice and straight forward although clipping the clasp in place with a little tricky. On to the boot... sorry, trunk lid. Put it in place and hold with masking tape. Now turn the model over and fix the hinge bracket in place. Next we install the fuel tank assembly. Feed the LED cables through the gaps either side of the trunk
  7. Stage 96 Some fiddly details! Let's start with the mirror. Use tweezers to place the reflective sticker accurately, then push the mirror in place. Now the windscreen goes on. This is screwed in from underneath, and it fits very accurately and securely. Now the wipers are screwed in place. These are a bit fiddly and it helps to pre-thread them to make it easier to get the screws in straight. You can see that ~I've left the masking tape in place to tame the hood.
  8. Stage 95 the head lights The lenses clip into the reflectors, then they are screwed in place on the body. Very easy. The LEDs are saved for later.
  9. Stage 94 The Anti-sway bar and hood support The anti-sway bar goes on easily. The hood support clip clips in place nice and firmly. The hood support locates easily and could be held in place with masking tape. However, I found it easier to leave it off for now as it can be easily fitted at the end of the build. Here's where to put the tape if you choose to fit it now.
  10. Stage 92. Left indicators and rear light. The front indicator assembles easily and clips in place without any drama. So does the rear light cluster. The LED wasn't the tightest fit in the world, but a piece of masking tape solved this and kept the cable under control. Stage 93 is simply a repeat of the last stage.
  11. Here is the build of the last pack. Stage 91. Grill and jacking points. This is an easy stage. The two jacking points are screwed in place. The grill goes on easily too. Put the hood in place and taped it down so it doesn't fall open. Use masking tape as it comes off without leaving any residue. Now fit the radiator assembly as per the instructions. It's a little fiddly to get right, but it does locate solidly and holds the hinges firmly.
  12. Stage 89 Electrical wires These just clip together, matching the numbers. Stage 90 Grill and front jacking points. The grill goes on with one screw. The jacking points each go on with one screw. Finally for this stage, a gratuitous shot showing the car loosely assembled!
  13. Stage 87 left inner side panel. The chrome trim clips into the side panel, and the panel is fitted to the body with 3 screws. Stage 88 right inner side panel. Same as above! Now fit the firewall. This clicks into place and locates positively, but it's bit fiddly to get in. A couple of screws makes sure it isn't going anywhere.
  14. Stage 86, assorted details. Firstly, the wing mirror (or side mirror as it's an American car which has fenders not wings, and fender mirror just sounds silly!!) Assembly the mirror, using tweezers to add the reflective sticker. Then screw it in place. Be careful not to damage this while the car is upside down. It's a little vulnerable. Add the hinges to the hood. Then attach the radiator bracket and mounting plate. Easy stuff. Finally retrieve the Shelby emblem from your box of parts, digging all the way back to pack 1, and fit this to the b
  15. Stage 85. The one we've all been waiting for!! And it is worth the wait. Not only is it one of the best looking sports cars ever designed, the finish is brilliant. It's just gorgeous. Now let's get to work! Firstly, put down cloth of some sort to protect the paintwork when you're working on the body. I use a towel. You don't want to scratch the paintwork. Fitting the door catches is easy, but add a drop of lubricant to the screw holes to help the screws go in without stripping the heads. Now add the dashboard. The fitted nicely with just a couple of screws.
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