Jump to content

Mark

Member
  • Content Count

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    9

Mark last won the day on July 31

Mark had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

13 Good

About Mark

  • Rank
    Active Member

Profile extras

  • Building
    Shelby Super Snake
  • AgoraAdvantage

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks guys! It shouldn't be a problem to split the diary into smaller posts. I'll probably group them in related sections.
  2. I've got pack 6 now. Stage 39 gives us the floor mats and fire extinguishers. The front floor mats fit like this. I found that these required a lot of effort to get the mats to locate in the holes. I cleared out the holes as recommended in the instructions, but it still too a very firm push with a flat screwdriver blade to get the pegs firmly in the holes. This is what it should look like from the bottom. The rear mats go like this. The instructions say to put the long strip at the rear, but they don't fit properly. There is a large hole and peg, and a small hole and peg, so they only go one way. Mine went with the long strip at the front. You could drill out the smaller holes if you wished and fit the mats the right way round according to the instructions. However, it's a very small detail, so I'm happy to fit them as below. Then the seats are fitted with 2 screws for each seat, and the seatbelts can then clip int he buckles. Just be careful not to trap the belts under the seat when you fix the seats. The seats are marked with L & R so no excuses for getting them wrong! On to the fire extinguisher. This clips together as shown. Tweezers help to apply the sticker accurately. And the whole thing clips in between the seats nicely. This completes the stage. Stage 40 gives us the rear seat support. This clips in place fairly well. Then screws in place with 4 screws. Make sure the centre pip is properly located. The completed stage looks like this. Stage 41 gives us the interior rear platform Three screws and we're done. The completed stage looks like this. Stage 42 gives us the left rear interior panel. This is a decorative accessory. That's probably what I'd call it if I didn't know what it was either!! Anyway, it's shiny, looks nice, and screws in with a screw from the back! The seat panel release (folding rear seat!) is also screwed in from the back. It's fitted with three screws. The completed stage looks like this. Stage 43 gives us the left upper interior panel. The decorative panel fits like this, and is screwed in place with 2 screws in the back. Then this is fixed with 1 small screw and 2 larger screws. I found it best to get all three points properly locates as best you can, then put all the screws in loosely before tightening them all. Here's the completed stage. Stage 44 gives the the trunk partition panel. The instructions tell you to clear any flash from the slots in the pegs, and you need to. The pegs (tenons) won't go in the holes if you don't. Then it clips in and fixes with three screws. The completed stage looks like this. Stage 45 gives us the start of the folding rear seat. The piano hinge is really nice and articulates perfectly. It's fitted in place with 3 really tine screws. Hope you remembered to magnetise your screwdriver. The instructions say it will only go one way round, but it's not completely idiot proof. I should know, I've spent most of my career trying to make things idiot proof. Unfortunately they keep making more creative idiots! Anyway, I digress. Pay close attention to the pictures in the instructions and it's easy to get it the right way round. Stage 46 gives us the rest of the back seat. Push the two parts together firmly. The more tiny screws and you end up with this. It moves really nicely! This is the model at the end of this pack. Obviously the cabin is just sat in place, but it's looking really nice now.
  3. Mark

    Assembly tools

    This set may be even better. They quote a length on 100mm for a PH00 driver. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-SD62-Extra-Long-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B000LFTO0Q/ref=pd_sbs_60_1/261-9665949-7873737?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000LFTO0Q&pd_rd_r=59504d72-c48c-4db2-9fcb-c6ccc0f9c5f3&pd_rd_w=LO3LP&pd_rd_wg=pxxtZ&pf_rd_p=2773aa8e-42c5-4dbe-bda8-5cdf226aa078&pf_rd_r=46YVY6QMC96GPZ4YKESX&psc=1&refRID=46YVY6QMC96GPZ4YKESX Sorry it's the UK site, but I'm sure you can find the same product from a local supplier.
  4. Mark

    Assembly tools

    Something like this should do the trick, although Draper are not high end tools. Search for Jewellers screwdrivers for alternatives. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-PSS6XL-Extra-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00DW8L1LO/ref=sr_1_15?crid=3NC75FEXCQ1RG&dchild=1&keywords=jewellers+screwdrivers+set&qid=1591202462&s=digital-skills&sprefix=jewellers+screw%2Calexa-skills%2C331&sr=1-15
  5. Stage 34. Here we fit the pedals and switches. These are the parts we get. First off, the inner side walls are fitted to the floor. They are secured with three screws each. Now we move on to the switches. These are a little bit fiddly, but not too bad. Make sure you get them the right way round; the instructions are clear. They just sit int he bracket and are a little loose. This is normal, as stated in the instructions, and they work just fine when that is finished. Then place the bracket on the underside of the floor, pick up the switch that just fell out, and try again! :lol: When they are in position, fix with the screw. Make sure that the buttons are pocking into the holes in the floor. Not a great photo, but it's a small black button recessed in a small hole surrounded by black flocking! That's my excuse, and I'm sticking to it!! The pedals go on nice and easily. They didn't work the switches until the screws were tight. However, once the screws are tighten (don't over tighten and strip them) they work perfectly and have a nice satisfying click. This is the completed stage. Stage 35. The dashboard. Here's what we get. The fuse cover fits like this. Just fitted with one screw in the back. There is an inset photo on the 'completed stage' page on the instructions saying that there may be a carpeted peg in a hole. This will be where they put a plug in the screw hole so it doesn't get filled up with flock. Mine was clear, but I guess there may be the odd one missed, so it's worth checking this carefully. Here is the dash resting on the floor. Stage 36. This is a nice stage where we add some 60's chrome to the dash!! I added the stickers with a pair of tweezers. They end up looking like this. Give the dial glasses a polish and place them in the trim. Then put the trim in place. Now add the dashboard strip, and screw it in place. You need to push it on straight or the bushes for the screws are reluctant to go in their holes. Apply the G.T. 500 sticker carefully. Screw this in place thus. I found the MP05 screws were a bit long to go in easily, so I changed them for some spare MP03 screws from the spares box. Here's the completed stage. Stage 37 is the 60's style radio, dials and a glove box (Who's going to be first to make some 1/8 scale driving gloves ?) The radio goes on first. Again, this has some lovely fine printing on it. As before, stickers represent the dials. Glass in place. Bezels screwed in place. As the instructions hint, the MP05 screw did strip the thread, but a spare MP01 screw held firmly. The dials screwed in place. The glove box inner screws in place easily. Then the cover just clips into place. Finally screw it into place to the floor. Here's the completed stage. Stage 38 completes this pack with the rear floor and the front seat belts. Only lap belts in this car. Incidentally, modern seat belts came in 1958 when Swedish engineer Nils Bohlin invented the three-point seatbelt for Volvo. Volvo opened up the patent so all car manufacturers could fit these style belts, which have saved countless lives. The original lap belt was a British invention the 1800s. Anyway, I digress. These are the parts we get. The anchors just clip into the floor. There were quite tight and needed a firm push to get in. Be careful to keep them straight as you push or you'll risk bending the tabs,. Both anchors fitted then the front and rear floor sections are screwed together. Feed the belts through he slots in the floor. Tweezers definitely help with this!! Make sure you get the belt the Shelby logo facing upwards. Fit the metal buckles over the posts like this. Masking tape is added carefully as suggested by their expert. I also taped the wires to the bottom of the floor as a temporary measure to stop them getting tangles or snagged. This completes the pack. I do like the way Agora are building up the model is a sensible order. Not jumping about like many other partwork series do.
  6. On with Pack 5. Stage 31 gives us the stabiliser bar and lower suspension arms. This is what we get Untitled First off, I found that I'd got the suspension brackets on the wrong way round. Either nobody spotted it, or everybody was too polite to point out the mistake! Anyway, it's an easy matter to unscrew them and refit them the right way round. This is what they should look like. Untitled Place the component in position. Untitled Put the pins in the lower suspension arms, like this. Untitled Squeeze home fully. Untitled The strut rods are screwed into the slots in the chassis. When tightened, they should still be free to slide in the slots. This is to allow the suspension to move. Untitled Now the tie rod assembly is fitted. This just slides over the pitman arm. Untitled The steering rack fits under the steering gear like this. Untitled I taped the arms in place with masking tape to save them flapping about loose. This completes this pack. Untitled Stage 32 The upper suspension arms. These are the parts we get. Untitled The arms are assembled with the pins. Be careful to get the parts the right way round. Untitled Pins driven fully home. Untitled Then simply screw the brackets in place. Simples!! Untitled This completes this stage. Untitled Stage 33 The front floor and gear lever. These are the parts we get. Untitled The lever was taped to the underside of the floor which keeps it safe from any damage. Untitled The carpet is represented with flocking, and is really nice. Untitled One screw and we're done! Untitled The printing on the knob is superb!! Untitled To be continued......
  7. Too easy! Iā€™m a happy bunny now ! Your first completely original model?
  8. It's massive!! The finished car is going to be a real star!
  9. I've now got pack 4 of Agora's Shelby Super Snake. Most of this issue is completing the chassis, although we make a start on the steering mechanism. Stage 23. The middle chassis. Untitled This is simply fitted with 4 screws, lubricated with Vaseline of course. The completed stage looks like this. Untitled Stage 24. The front floor pan. This is what you get. Untitled This is held in place with 9 screws. This instructions remind us that this will need to be removed to fit the exhaust pipes, so I screwed it firmly into place, then backed the screws off 1/2 a turn so they will come out easily. When you fit the part in place, make sure the tabs go down flush with the chassis. Also be very careful tightening these screws as they will strip the threads very easily. Untitled The finished stage looks like this. Untitled Stage 25 is the drive shaft. It comes in two halves. Untitled and goes together like this. Untitled It's fitted like this. Note that the round pin goes int eh gearbox, and the flat, T shaped tab goes in the rear diff housing. Be careful not to damage the fuel filler pipe while the model is upside down. Untitled Stage 26 gives us the gearbox and crossmember. Untitled The gearbox goes in like this, and is screwed from the top. Untitled Followed by the crossmember. Untitled Stage 27 gives us the front chassis. Untitled This goes on easily with 4 screws. This is getting BIG now. And it's getting difficult to photograph in my work space while keeping the clutter out of shot! Untitled Stage 28, the front fender splash guards. I think I'd call these the wheel arch closing plates, but it is an American car! Untitled This is the right hand side. Note the orientation. Usually I use the Agora provided screwdriver as it's a nice comfortable tool to hold. However, a screwdriver with a longer shaft makes these parts easier to fit. Untitled This is the left hand side. This completes the basic chassis. Untitled Stage 29. The steering rods. Untitled These go together with 2 screws. Watch the orientation of the parts! My first thought was to screw these up without using any Vaseline as these parts will move and you don't want them working loose. However, The screws were very tight going in, so I relented and did add a smear to the threads. The screws are still quite tight to go in, and it's not like the model is going to be played with, so I don't think there is any chance they will come loose. Back the screws off 1/4 of a turn if the arms don't move freely. Untitled Stage 30 gives us a couple of suspension brackets and some more of the steering mechanism. Untitled The brackets go on like this. They are identical, so it doesn't matter which side is which. Untitled The steering gear goes on like this. Untitled It's screwed from the other side, and the screw is very deep in the chassis, so a magnetised screwdriver is a must. Untitled The Pitman are goes on the steering rods. Again, back the screw off 1/4 turn if the arm doesn't move freely. Untitled This completes the stage. My model now looks like this. Untitled Here's a link to Agora's web site. https://www.agoramodels.com/super-snake/
  10. Thanks guys. Glad you like the style and find it useful. The pics are just taken with an iPhone. Nothing fancy. Just careful framing so you don't see the clutter on the rest of the table šŸ˜Š
  11. Lancia Stratos? As the Borg say, Resistance is futile!!
  12. Pack 3. It all gets a bit bigger now, with the back axle and the rear chassis. The rear chassis goes on no problem. It fitted like Lego!! The floor pan goes on now, but has to be removed some time in the future. I screwed the part in tightly and then backed the screws off a turn. This ensures that the self tapping screws have cut the thread completely, so when you come to remove and re-fit the floor pan, it will come off easily, and more importantly, tighten up easily as well. We don't know how much detail will have been added by then, and it we don't want to risk damaging the model by having to apply lots of force tightening screws. The back axle goes together easily. Just make sure you get the T slot the right way up!! The springs go on the back axle and fit into this hole. Watch you don't press on the fuel filler when the model is upside down. A bit of making tape to hold the springs in place makes this a lot easier! The wheel arch is easy. The leaf springs are not too difficult, but pay attention to make sure everything goes the right way round. It's easy to get parts the wrong way round if you're not careful. The pin fixing the shackle to the spring deserves a mention. It goes in from either side, and it goes in fairly easily. If you're struggling to push it in, it's probably not lined up with the hole in the far side of the shackle. I actually tapped these in with a small hammer as I didn't have a large enough pair of pliers handy. It only needed a very gentle tap. The finished spring fits like this. It was a bit of a game getting the shackles lined up with the holes in the chassis but goes in easily enough when everything is lined up properly. The spring plate went on very easily. Again, make sure it's the right way round. The other side is a repeat, and the finished pack looks like this. My full dairy is here. http://www.partworkmodels.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=202&t=9159
  13. Pack 2. This is mostly a repeat of pack one with the other door and seat, so it doesn't need much discussion. I did have a bit of flash on the lower door trim. Not a lot, and it the part could be forced into position. However, it fits much better if you remove the flash. This is easily removed by sanding it off. The finished door looks like this. The seat is dead easy! The fuel tank is straight forward too. I did touch in the screw heads with Tamiya flat aluminium paint to make them a bit less conspicuous. They will be visible if you open the boot (OK, trunk as it's an American car!) Again, my full diary is here. http://www.partworkmodels.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=202&t=9159
  14. Hi Folks, this is the abbreviated story of my Super Snake. I'm posting a full diary on my own forum and will put the highlights here. Links to my full diary are included with Agora's permission. I'll be building the model as per the instructions, but with a few added details. These will be easy enough to do if anybody wants to copy them, and I'll only be using commonly available stuff. Paint, fuse wire, bits of rod or tubing, etc. Lets start with pack 1. The first stage is nice and straight forward. I routinely put a touch of Vaseline in the metal holes and it makes the screws go in so much easier. Stage 2 is equally straight forward. Stage 3 doesn't present too may problems either. Just make sure you get the hinge the right way round. Flicking the hinge up as mentioned in the instructions certainly makes it easier to get the screw tight. Stage 4 is a little more tricky. Get the handle in the bracket as shown. Carefully put the bracket in the door panel. It looks like this from the outside (of the door, inside of the car - you know what I mean! LOL!!) Then hold it all in place, and screw the screws in. This bit is definitely a bit fiddly! Fit the window winder and lower trim, and screw the door together. Now you need to carefully slide the upper trim underneath the handle. This is a bit nerve wracking, but the handle is stronger than it looks. The seat is plain sailing. The full diary is here. http://www.partworkmodels.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=202&t=9159
×
×
  • Create New...