Push the knob into the bracket.

Now push the body onto the pin in the back of the knob.  (I wish I knew what this did!)

Now screw this assembly to the cockpit frame with an AP screw.

Take the two body supports and push them into their respective holes in the cockpit frame.  They are engraved L & R so you can get them the right way round.  There is also a tab on the supports so they will only go in their holes the right way round.

Fit the oil pressure gauge and water temp gauge to the dash board.  These are self adhesive, so remove the backing paper.  If necessary, remove the gauges if you fitted them previously.

Remove the steering wheel and the panel from the steering shaft.

Screw the panel to the cockpit frame with two BM screws.

Now put the steering column in place and refit the steering wheel.

Screw the dash board in pace with two JP screws fitted from underneath.

Finally, push the tube onto the pin on the back of the knob assembly.

This completes the stage and the pack.

Take the larger panel and fix it to the cockpit floor.  It's secured with 4 BP screws from underneath.

The smaller panel fits in the circular recess in the floor.  Make sure you align it properly as it's slightly sloped and it isn't keyed in any way.  This is also secured with a BP screw from underneath.

Fitting the cockpit floor is a bit tricky.  I found it easier if you removed the cross member 20A, although you may well be able to fit the floor just by loosening it.

Loosen the screws holding the suspension torsion bars by about 1 turn.

Remove the two screws holding the cross member 20A.

Now remove the cross member assembly.

Insert the cockpit floor, inserting the front first.

Make sure that the holes in the fire wall line up with the screw holes in the floor.

Make sure that the brake hose goes between the chassis and the cockpit floor.

Now refit the cross member assembly, but don't fully tighten the screws yet.  It's easier to fit the rear cockpit floor screws if you can move this cross member a little.

Note how the right hand torsion bar goes under the gear selector box.  You'll need to flex the torsion bar to get it in place.

Make sure that the upper arms sit back in the recesses in the top chassis rail.  These are not screwed yet.

Make sure that the torsion bars locate in their holes in the rear suspension, then retighten the screws holding the torsion bars.

Fix the front of the cockpit floor with two BP screws.

Fix the rear with another two BP screws.  The screws holding the cross member can now be fully tightened.

This competes the stage.

The clutch bell housing is screwed to the back of the firewall with two AP screws.

The model supports can be used to stand the model on if you want to display it with the wheel raised off the ground.  Put them away safely for now.

This completes the stage.

This completes the stage.

This is a short stage.  Just press the panels in place.  You may need a spot of super glue if they aren't sitting firmly.  

This completes the stage.

Place the foam padding underneath the seat cushion.

Clip the seat frame inside the cushion moulding and screw the two parts together with EP screws.

Fit this assembly to the seat frame from stage 55.  

The two parts are screwed together with three BP screws and two PP screws inserted from underneath the seat.

Put the front lower seat frame in place and secure from underneath with two AP screws.

Finally, fit the head rest in position and secure this from behind with two AP screws to complete the stage.

Place the foam pad behind the seat back.

Fit this assembly to the seat frame and secure with two BP screws.

This completes the stage.

The oil cooler panels push onto the front and rear of the radiator frame.

The black pipe pushes onto the top of the oil cooler.  It's curved, and the curve should go to the top, so that it clears the pipe from the firewall.

The silver fitting is pushed into the hole near the top of the oil cooler.  Note the angle from the photo.

The radiator shock absorber (brace?) is screwed to the bracket on the top of the radiator with an LP screw.  This is a bit fiddly, and you'll need to move it when you fit the radiator, so don't over tighten it.

Fitting the radiator is a bit of a game as there are three parts that all need locating correctly.  

Slide the radiator over the two torsion bars.

The large pipe and the smaller black pipe from the header are attached to the radiator top.

The bottom pipe connects to the bottom of the radiator.  Be careful not to dislodge the thin rubber pipe that goes from he bottom pipe to the bottom of the header tank.

The radiator shock absorber fits in a small hole in the front of the chassis top cross member.  This is quick tricky to fit, and also quick tricky to photograph!!

The radiator can then be secured with two VM screws, one each side.

Finally, fit the large rubber pipe from the fire wall to the top left hand corner of the radiator.

This completes the stage.

The front one pushes on the front.

The rear one pushes on...... wait for it.... the rear!!

This completes the stage.

The upper cover will fit on the frame in this orientation.

Fix it with 3 EP screws.

The lower cover just pushes on to complete the stage.

This is quite a short, but interesting stage.  The steering box  housing is fitted to the front left hand side of the chassis with 2 HM screws.

Now insert the gear into the housing.  You may like to pre-thread the hole in the bottom end of the gear with a DM screw to make it easier to fit the steering arm.

Now fix the steering arm to the bottom of the gear with the DM screw.

Finally, fit the steering support to the front right hand side of the chassis with UM screws and fix the right hand steering arm with a PM screw.  Again, you may like to pre-thread the hole for the steering arm screw before fitting the steering support.

This completes the stage.

Start by pushing the gate onto the base.

Now insert the gear over, noting which way round it's fitted.  

It's secured with a KP screw fitted from below.

This assembly is screwed to the chassis with two DM screws.

Push the pin on the gear linkage (part 29C) into the hole in the gear lever base.  You may find it easier to align the part is you remove it from the gearbox, fit it to the gear lever base, then refit it to the gearbox.

Taek the Y pipe, the pipe (50l) and the tubing and assemble them as per the photo below.

Fit the pipe (50l) onto the chassis as shown.

Fit the longer pipe from the other side of the Y to the fuel pump (Part 22E).

Fit the other end of the long pipe from the base of the Y (50E) to the fuel reservoir.

This completes the stage.

The upper chassis rod goes from the rear left corner of the engine bay to the middle of the front chassis cross member.

It's secured at the back with a DM screw.

A DM screw also secures the front end.

The lower chassis rod goes diagonally across the bottom of the engine bay.

This is also secured with DM screws at both ends.

Push the brake lines onto the brake distributor to form a T as shown.

Push the brake distributor into the hole in the gearbox.  Then fit the short brake lines over the adjacent pins.  You'll need to shorten the brake lines a bit.

Feed the long brake line forward, between the chassis members as shown.

Now feed it up over the top of the fire wall and under the air intake manifold.

Finally, bring it round the front chassis cross member and connect it to the front brake distributor.  Don't glue it in case you need to shorten it.  The brake line may seem a bit untidy at the moment, but we will tidy it later in the  build.

This completes the stage.

Stage 48 gives us the tyre for the rear left wheel.  These photos are actually from the first wheel, but the method is identical.  The only thing to note is that the rear tyres are slightly wider than the front tyres.

Soften the tyre in a bowl of very hot water and then ease it over the wheel rim.

The plastic spacer hub sits inside the wheel hub.  However, it will fall out so I suggest just keeping it safe for now.

The washer and hubcap (more usually called a spinner) are pushed onto the hub.  However they will come off quite easily so I suggest keeping them stored safely for now.

This completes the stage.