Most of the parts used were supplied in the previous stage.  Start with the battery tray and the left and right plates.  The plates are engraved L & R for easy identification.

Screw these in place with type B screws.

Now we need to fit the battery tray assembly into the base.  The parts are laid out below in the manner in which they fit together.

Screw them together with type B screws.

Now fit the switch with type L screws.  Note that the pins with wires soldered to them go nearest the red battery wire.

Take the short bracket and fit it to the short side of the battery tray base.

Fit the long bracket to the long side.

The battery cover screw and washer are fitted to the battery cover.  The plastic washer stops the screw falling out, but it must be pressed or screwed down to the bottom of the threads.,

The battery cover screws in place to cover the batteries.  

Screw the circuit board in place with two type B screws.  Pay attention to which way round it goes.  

Plug the switch connector into socket 17.

The prop shaft is fitted to the chassis between the gearbox and the differential.  You'll need to flex the shaft to get it to fit.

This completes the stage and the pack.

Take the rear body and the cockpit floor.

Turn the body upside down and insert the cockpit.

Make sure that the rear parcel shelf sits in front of the boor hinge, not on top of it.

Insert the oil pipe into the reservoir.

Secure the floor with 4 type C screws.  Two go either side of the parcel shelf.

Two go near the front of the rear wheel arches.

Take the boot frame and put it in place in the rear body under the boot lid.  Make sure that you don't trap the wires for the rear lights.

It's fixed with two type C screws at the front.

And two type C screws at the rear, under the rear light LEDs.  (Sorry, the photos a bit dark.)

The rear wheel arches are fitted next.  These are a bit difficult to fit.  Insert the rear tabs in the rear body, then force the centre screw posts into position in the holes in the wheel arches.  I found it easier if your chamfer the edges of the screw posts and the screw holes a little.  Use a sharp, pointed modelling knife.

Type B screws fit in the centre holes.

You also use type B screws to fix the front of the wheel arches.

The support rod fits in the front of the body, between the vertical post and the floor.

The last part of this stage is fitting the firewall.  Start by bundling the wires together and holding them with a piece of masking tape.

Put the firewall in place.  This is takes a bit of persuasion as it's quite tricky to get it to fit.  However, a bit of pushing here and there, some language that your grandmother may not approve of, and it will fit in place.  

Here's where the wires should be routed, between the valance and the firewall.

Here's how the steering column should protrude through the firewall.

The firewall is fixed with 4 type C screws.  Two go into the posts under the front valance.

Two go through the sides of the sides of the firewall near the cockpit floor.

Finally, the rest of the floor is secured with 4 type C screws.  2 each side.

This completes the stage.

These pedals are a bit fiddly!  I've included a few close-ups and different angles to help you see what's going on.

Take the brake pedal and its base.  This shows the orientation of the parts.

Slide the pedal into the base.

The switch fits on the back of the base with the button facing the front.  This switch has the black connector.

The fits like this.

Now press the bracket on until it clips into place.

Here's the view from the back.  Make sure you can hear the switch clicking when you press the pedal.  

On to the accelerator pedal now.

The parts go together in this orientation.

Push the pivot into the base and rotate the pedal to its correct position.

Here's the view from the front.

The switch fits in the base like this.  This switch has a purple/white connector.

The bracket will hold the switch in place.  Push it until the two tabs click into the slots.  

It looks like this from the top.  Check that the switch clicks when you press the pedal.

Fit the accelerator pedal assembly to the firewall.

It's held from behind with two type B screws.

The brake pedal is fitted next.  Make sure the silver rectangle is fully seated in the cut-out in the firewall.

This is also held from the back with two type B screws.

The clutch pedal just pushes into  place.  It has a D shaped pin to ensure the correct alignment.

Finally, push the prop shaft onto the coupling.

This completes the stage.

Stage 87 gives us the tyre to complete the wheel.

Remove the protective backing and stick the washer (supplied in stage 23) and stick it in place.  With hind sight, I'd have stuck this in place before fitting the spokes as it's a bit fiddly to get it past the ends of the spokes.

I fitted this by softening the tyre with some very hot water and pushing it over the wheel.  A few minutes in near boiling water (mind your fingers!) and the rubber becomes very pliable.

This completes the stage.

Stage 86 gives us the last set of parts to complete the wheel, just leaving the tyre to fit in the next stage.

We have three rows of spokes to fit this time.  The first row is type A spokes fitted in the remaining holes in the hub.  I've highlighted the first spoke in red again.

The completed row looks like this.

Push the last part of the hub on the wheel.  I ran a 0.5mm drill through the holes to clear any burs again.  You may need to twist this hub a little to get an even spoke pattern as you did with the larger hub.

The first row of spokes are fitted in the lower row of holes.

Heres a top down view.

The completed row looks like this.

The final row of spokes are fitted in the top row of holes in the hub.

Here's the top down view.

The completed row looks like this.  If necessary, twist the hub slightly to get an even spoke pattern. 

Now treat the wheel very carefully as you are going to be so annoyed if you knock it and all the spokes jump out!

Screw the sealing ring to the outer rim.

Note that there are arrows to help you align the two halves of the rim correctly.

Very carefully, place the outer rim over the inner rim and tighten the screws.  It's worth checking the spokes and reposition any that have moved before You fully tighten the screws.

I have to say, the wheel really looks impressive!  Give yourself a pat on the back!

This completes the stage.

Stage 85 gives us the second set of parts for the rear wheel.

This row of spokes are fitted into the remaining holes in the bottom row of holes in the hub.  The first spoke is highlighted in red.

This is the top view showing the line of the spoke more clearly.

Carry on to complete the row of spokes.  You can hold them with a drop of PVA glue if you didn't use double sided tape.  You can get away without using glue at all if you have a steady hand!

Fit the second spoke retainer ring and screw it in place.  Check each spoke to make sure none have jumped out of position.

This completes the stage.

Stage 84 gives us the first parts for the rear right wheel, but first we fit the dashboard.

Note that the wheel photos are copied from stage 21, so the wheel jig is in the photo, but is only supplied in stage 21, not this stage.

We start with the rear view mirror.  Retrieve this from your box of parts and push it in place in the head lining.  The instructions said not to remove the blue protective film, but I decided to anyway as I don't think the mirror is likely to get scratched during subsequent assembly.

Take the dash board and fit it to the front of the body section.  It's secured with two type C screws.

It looks like this from the top.

Now fit the dashboard support which is also fitted with two type C screws.

Here's a close up showing the screw locations.

Take the steering wheel assembly and feed the two wires and the column through the hole in the dashboard.  Note how the lug on the steering wheel shroud fits into the bracket on the back of the dashboard.

Use a type B screw to secure the steering wheel assembly.  Note how the back of the shroud fills the hole in the dashboard.

Insert the control in the hole nearest the ignition switch.

Screw the switch and bracket assembly from stage 81 in place.  Make sure that the switch clicks when you press the control.

Glue the other control in the other hole.  There is no switch for this one to operate.

Take the fire extinguisher from stage 75 and push it onto the tab by the passenger door.

Use a bit of masking tape to tame the wires.

The dash should look like this from the driver's door.

This completes teh stage as far as the bodywork goes.

Now we can start work on the wheel.

Start by placing the inner wheel rim on the jig.  There is a pin on the jig that goes in a hole in the rim.

Place the plastic hub type B on the centre of the jig.

Now press the type A hub in position.  There is no alignment pin, and you will probably need to rotate it a little to get good spoke alignment.  More on that later.

When I started assembling the spokes I found that some of them were difficult to insert in the hub.  So I ran a 0.5mm drill through each hole in the hub which cleared out the odd bur and made the spokes easier to insert.

Start inserting the spokes (type B spokes) so that they lay on the rim neatly.  Insert the spokes in the bottom row on holes, and leave a hole between each spoke.

Looks like this from the top.

Carry on until you have completed the layer on spokes.

The instructions suggest either using double sided tape or glue to hold the spoke in position while you assemble the wheel.  I chose to use PVA glue since it is flexible as will allow the spokes to move a little.  I wouldn't use superglue; it's too rigid for this application.

Now start fitting the second layer of spokes (type A spokes).  These are inserted in the top row of holes, immediately to the left of the first set of spokes.

Complete the layer of spokes.  Now you may need to twist the hub slightly to get nice even triangular pattern in the spokes.  

Take the spoke retainer ring and note the arrows on this and the rim to help align the spoke retainer.

Carefully place the retainer over the spokes making sure the arrows still line up.  Press it home carefully then check each spoke to ensure that none of them have jumped out.  They can be put back with a pair of tweezers of necessary.  No need to remove the retainer ring.

The retainer ring isn't glued so store it carefully.

This completes the stage.

Put the roof in place on the rear body.

It's secured with 2 type N screws from inside.

And two type C screws that go into the vertical frame.

You also need to ensure that the pin on the framework goes into the hole in the windscreen pillar.

Instert the fuel tank filler plate into the headlining.  It will only go one way round.

Now fit the headlining inside the roof.  It's secured with 4 type N screws.

Make are that it's fully seated.  The red screw posts should protrude from the head lining.

The round silver stickers are provided to cover the red screw posts.  The larger ones go nearest the edge and the smaller ones go on the protruding screw posts.  As an alternative, you could touch in the red paint with silver which may make a neater job.  

Take the roll bar that was supplied in stage 75 and fit it in place.  It's fitted from the back, inserting the studs into the eh subframe into the holes in the ends of the roll bar.  Then ease the roll bar over the ridges in the head lining and screw it in place with two type N screws.

Press the fuel filler flap on place.

Now we can fit the doors.  Put the right door in position.

The hinge locates in the vertical frame here.

The door is secured with two type C screws from the inside.

Check that the door opens and closes nicely.

Repeat with the left door.

Push the brake and indicator LEDs in place.  The brake LEDs have red connectors and the indicators have orange connectors.

A piece of masking tape will help tame the wires and that completes the stage.

First of all we need to remove the universal joint from the steering shaft.  Use a cross head screwdriver and remove the screw as shown in the photo below.

These are the pieces that you should have removed.

The steering shaft is left looking like this.

Take the steering column and the parts just removed from the model.

Fit them together as shown.  I found that the screw removed from the steering shaft was too small, so I used a spare type C screw.

I put the screw I removed from the steering shaft back in place in the shaft to keep it safe.

The instructions say to push the horn cable further into the steering wheel shroud, but I found that it wouldn't push in any further.  

Now we move on to the parts supplied in this stage.  Fit the battery tray to the firewall with a type B screw.

Fit the battery to the tray.  It's push fit.

{use teh two terminals onto the battery cover.

Fit this to the battery.

Finally fit the battery handle.

Screw the air duct to the panel with a type B screw.

Fit the reservoir bracket to the panel just below the VIN plate.

Push the cover onto the brake fluid reservoir.

Fit the brake fluid reservoir to the bracket.

Here's a close up.

This completes the stage.

Push the cover on to the windscreen wiper motor.

Fit the motor bracket to the dashboard support with a type B screw.

Here's a close up.

Push the wiper motor onto the bracket as shown.

The two controls fit in the dashboard support like this.  They are pushed in from the back.  However, they are loose so keep them somewhere safe for now.

They look like this from the front.

Take the switch for the ignition key.  It will be fitted in the orientation shown.  This switch has a green connector.

Push it into the rear of the dashboard support.

Fit the ignition switch bezel to the front of the dashboard support.

The key fits nicely, but keep it safe for now to avoid losing it.

Fit the ignition coil caps into the coil bodies.

Complete the coils by fitting the other half of the bodies.

The coils fit onto the firewall.  They are a firm push fit.

Take the instrument panel LED and push it into the back of the panel.

Take the remaining switch (yellow connector) and fit it to the switch bracket.

This completes the stage.